Help with ssr

[vanceromance]

Trying to grt my set up runnung and i cant get my ssr to power up my heating element. It is a 240v 5500 heater throug a contactor and ssr controlledbya pid wired from one of pj's wiring diagrams and I can't figure out what is wrong.

Ifi disconnect the heater from the contactoriget the240v phase to phase when the pid is set above temp and 0 when pidis set below temp. When i i connect the heater I lose the 240 between thephases after the ssr and they is 0v between them and both phases are 120 to nuetral. If I jumper out the ssr the heater works fine.

What am imissing?



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[augiedoggy]

Only one of the two hots go in and come out of the SSR... Since you have no pictures or diagrams show One would have to have special powers to see what's wrong .... Does the light on the SSR turn on and off? What model pid are you using to control the SSR?

 

[bobsantos]

Can you show us your pictures? so that we could determine the problem

 

[augiedoggy]

If its wired wrong (and it makes you feel any better) I incorrectly wired up my ssrs when I built my panel and got lucky that I didnt burn them up... usually they go POOF! depending on how they are incorrectly wired. also some ssrs use different control voltages than others and some pids arent designed to drive ssrs...at least not without modifications.

 

[vanceromance]

This is how i'm wired. Standard 2 phase 5500w setup. If i jumper the red hot around the pid the heater works fine.

If i disconnect the heater from the contactor the pid/ssr part of the circuit appears to work fine as i have the ssr light on when the temp is below the pid setpoint and i get 230v phase to phase accross the contactor. I also verifed that i get 120v to nuetral from each phase. The ssr shuts off and the voltage is 0 between phases (and from the red to nuetral) when the temp is above the pid setpoint.

When i connect the heater wires back to the contactor the ssr light is on when the temp is below pid setpoint but the voltage across the ssr is 230v indicating that the ssr is not closed. The heater doesn't heat and there is 0 volts accross the output of the contactor and both the red and black are at 120v to nuetral.

View attachment 1422028647278.jpg

 

[vanceromance]

Here is a photo of my controller

View attachment 1422030276409.jpg

 

[vanceromance]

Its almost as if my ssr wont close under load.

 

[augiedoggy]

ok lets keep this simple...are you getting the 24v control power from the pid to the ssr to close the ssr circuit? (between blue and white) I see the light comes on so I suspect so how about if you just jumper the two red wires on the ssr? does the element come on? if not something is wire wrong but if yes to all the questions above the cheap $4 fotek knockoff ssr is bad and failing under load. (I use the same ones for a year with no issues and still use one so im not criticizing but being honest here)

also fyi those ssrs wont close without a load running off them so unless your element is plugged in it wont work...(You stated it is but..)

also you likely know this but the diagram you have would be different since you are using mypin pids from what I can see and not auber units so the pinout locations of the screws are totally different. Again you likely accounted for this but maybe others trying to make heads or tales my not realize it.

I am confused as to why you have your heavy 120v heater lines apparently going into the control panel face side? everything on that side draws under 1/2 amp?? and the selector for the element switch would only be tied to one leg of your 120v your using for the coil on the contactor...

 

[vanceromance]

I just swapped the ssr with a spare i had and i get the exact same results.

 

[augiedoggy]

So does it work with the two red wires jumpered? if not the issue would be contactor related I think.. another dumb question... the contactor is for AC power right? and its triggered with dc? there are different versions.

 

[vanceromance]

The pid is mypin ta4.

 

[augiedoggy]

your red wire should go directly from the terminal bar to the contactor then to the input on the ssr and then the output to the element plug. I am not sure why you have the wires running all over? and your black should do the same only skip the ssr...

 

[vanceromance]

My red wire goes from the terminal to the input on the ssr. The output from the ssr goes to to the contactor and the output from the contactor goes to the heater element.

 

[vanceromance]

I justvtested it with a light bulb. Pid output indicated, ssr light lit solid light connected from ssr output to nuetral not lit. If i intermintently connect the light to the ssr outlit the light will blink on when first connected but not stay lit.

 

[augiedoggy]

I justvtested it with a light bulb. Pid output indicated, ssr light lit solid light connected from ssr output to nuetral not lit. If i intermintently connect the light to the ssr outlit the light will blink on when first connected but not stay lit.

I think the light bulb is now enough of a load perhaps? how many watts was the bulb? thats how they behave when theres not enough load. I would try it with the element... its not going to hurt the element. (keep it in liquid)
IMO ideally the contactor should be before the ssr since they sometimes fail and start burning up its easier to kill the power to them this way but either way works...

 

[vanceromance]

I just tested the ssr with a 12v dc input and everything works fine. I'm not getting any output from my pid. Justvran it up and down and no change in output (stays at 0vdc) even when output lit.

 

[vanceromance]

I'll switch the contactor and ssr order. That is a good idea. I was just following pjs wiring diagram.

 

[augiedoggy]

you do have 110 volts at post#1 on the ssr right? Thatsthe input and the number 2 post is the output