Help with RIMS controller wiring diagram

[AlexMillerNC]

Need some help with wiring a RIMS controller, I've seen some wiring diagrams on the forum which are helpful but all are more involved than I need (see below).

My pump is in a toolbox build with a GFCI outlet installed, wired so that the pump box outlet (and thus the RIMS controller which will be plugged into it) only receives power when the pump is turned on. Because of this I don't need a switch to control the pump, an outlet for it or a connecter, etc. to ensure the element can be turned on only if the pump switch is on. I'm trying to keep the build as simple as possible while still being redundantly safe.

Running on 120v from a 15A GFI-protected outlet

Parts List:
NEMA 4 project box
Auber 2352 PID
25A SSR with heat sink
2x Selector Switch, 2-Position Maintained 2 NO (one for PID, one for element)
2x LED indicator (one for PID, one for element)
Flashing buzzer, 110v AC for temperature alarm
15A receptacle (for power from pump box)
15A locking receptacle (for element)
2x Terminal strips
Brew Hardware RIMS tube
Element: Camco 02932/02933 5500W 240V Foldback, Ultra Low Watt Density (~1340W when run on 120v)

If anyone can help with a wiring diagram or a resource that can I'd appreciate it.

 

[gkprobst]

You do realize that a 5500W 240V element will run at 2750W at 120V, right? That is about 23 amps. Your 15A receptacle will be a bit undersized.

 

[day_trippr]

Yeah, there's that.

Then there's this: "My pump is in a toolbox build with a GFCI outlet installed, wired so that the pump box outlet (and thus the RIMS controller which will be plugged into it) only receives power when the pump is turned on."

Taken literally, this supposes you are manually controlling the pump - and the power to the RIMS controller - with the same switch. I don't think you really want to do that...

Cheer!

 

[ChuckO]

You do realize that a 5500W 240V element will run at 2750W at 120V, right? That is about 23 amps. Your 15A receptacle will be a bit undersized.

5500 watts @ 240 volts = 22.91 amps with 10.47 ohms resistance.

120 volts through 10.47 ohms uses 11.45 amps and produces 1375 watts of heat. The 15 amp recepticle is quite acceptable

 

[P-J]

Try either of these 2 diagrams or a combination to suit your needs:

Hope it helps you.

P-J

 

[kmllr315]

When using the terminal blocks, do you use jumpers? Sorry, I have not used these before...


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[P-J]

4 position terminal blocks:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=18108666

8 position jumper strips:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103227

Hope this helps.

 

[kmllr315]

I started out my design as a 20 amp set up, is this worth while? Is 15 amp sufficient? I selected a 5500w 240v heating element running at 110v... Also, what gauge wire is best to use? I have large spools of home electrical wire I was planning to use...


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[kmllr315]

This is the heating element I plan to use...

http://www.lowes.com/pd_362369-135-...=1&currentURL=?Ntt=heating+element&facetInfo=

 

[P-J]

Will the 15 Watt terminals listed on the Radio Shack links above work in a 20 Watt setup?

I think you are very confused with you terminology.

You say (something) 15 Watts terminals when it is in reality a 15 amp device.
Then you talk about 20 Watts...

I think you are way over your head in you project.

Sorry but you need to be extremely careful with your project and your thinking in your mission.

I'd like to help - but I'm Done..... The more I say the deeper you get.

P-J

 

[kmllr315]

I disagree, I mistyped and made corrections on the post, I am very capable, besides, my dad built his own house from the ground up, guess I'll just use his knowledge


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[urbangravity]

P-J
Your schematics have been very helpful. I'm sure you are beseiged with questions and if you could indulge a few more regarding your 5500W-BIAB-30d11 design, I would appreciate it. First, did you build that controller and did it meet your expectations? Second, regarding the wire gauges, I am assuming that the power connections are 12g, between PID, Timer and Relay are 14g and the PID/RTD are sensor wires. Is that correct?

Thanks,
Bob (urbangravity)

 

[P-J]

P-J
Your schematics have been very helpful. I'm sure you are beseiged with questions and if you could indulge a few more regarding your 5500W-BIAB-30d11 design, I would appreciate it. First, did you build that controller and did it meet your expectations? Second, regarding the wire gauges, I am assuming that the power connections are 12g, between PID, Timer and Relay are 14g and the PID/RTD are sensor wires. Is that correct?

Thanks,
Bob (urbangravity)

I have built only a few of the controllers I've drawn.

The wire gauge is set based on the current draw for the device being supported and also the fuse/breaker in place for that circuit.

Hope this makes sense.

 

[kmllr315]

Be careful with the above Radio Shack components, rated at only 300 volts, most 20 amp components and wiring rated to 600 volts, just an FYI for anyone perusing this thread


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[P-J]

Be careful with the above Radio Shack components, rated at only 300 volts, most 20 amp components and wiring rated to 600 volts, just an FYI for anyone perusing this thread

Thanks for that. You must have a very unusual hat that you pulled that "info' from.

I guess I'm done with my support, advice & diagrams on this forum.

Sorry to all.

Geeze - I'm done. !!!

 

[kmllr315]

Sorry, just thought everyone who hits this thread might like to know the voltage rating


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[day_trippr]

Sorry, just thought everyone who hits this thread might like to know the voltage rating

If you broke P-J there's gonna be hell to pay...

 

[mattd2]

Sorry, just thought everyone who hits this thread might like to know the voltage rating...

But what exactly is your issue with the 300V rated ones? They are still rated to more than the voltage they will be used at 240V.
And also don't use the house wiring you have for any flexible cords in your build, use cable that is specifically made for external cords.

If you broke P-J there's gonna be hell to pay...

Don't worry, we all know P-J will be back
I just hope the OP of this thread got what he needed before it got somewhat hijacked

 

[urbangravity]

I have built only a few of the controllers I've drawn.

The wire gauge is set based on the current draw for the device being supported and also the fuse/breaker in place for that circuit.

Hope this makes sense.

Yes, thanks. I like to over build so I think I will jump to 10 gauge

 

[jsalm88]

Try either of these 2 diagrams or a combination to suit your needs:

Hope it helps you.



P-J

What size enclosure would you recommend for the components in this diagram?


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