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birchslap

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I have a 110 gallon batch in a conical fermenter that has been there two weeks. I drained off the trub after on week. The OG was 1.053 and it will not go any lower than 1.021. I have already tried pitching more yeast (another 5-11.5 g packs of US-05 one week ago and I am still at 1.021.

Here is what I am thinking about doing. Boiling up another 20 gallons of wort at an OG of ~1.096 with a double dose of the hops. Chill,Aerate, and pitch 10packs of US-05. Once it gets to high Kreusen I will add it to the othe 110 gallons.

Anyone ever try this sort of thing? Thanks
 
I've never done it, but I've read that adding amylase to the fermenter can nudge along a fermentation. Maybe this would help if your root cause is poor starch conversion.

Just curious: how much yeast did you pitch into the original 110 gallons? Do you always brew 3BBL at a time?
 
I pitched 25- 11.5 gram packs directly on top per MrMalty's pitch rate calculator.

Another thing that occured to me. I am taking my readings from samples taken off the very bottom of the induction/fermenter tank. Could it be that at higher levels in the fermenter I would get a lower raeding?

I really appreciate the ideas.
 
"Just curious: how much yeast did you pitch into the original 110 gallons? Do you always brew 3BBL at a time?"

No. previously I did 20 gallon batches. I brew using only birch sap, Alex pale extract and hops. Birch sap has a short window for harvesting so I decided to get er done in one big batch so I would not have to deal with pasteurizing and freezing the sap.
 
Hence the nickname. Very cool. I second the opinion about adding some wort from high krausen, or adding some amylase. I've heard both methods can sometimes help a fermentation finish.

Also, yeast tend to love higher temps. You might try bumping it up a bit to see if it will finish that way, or together with the other suggestions.
 
Another vote for amylase here. If you pitched another round of viable yeast and it didn't do a thing I'm guessing you have a fair amount of unfermentables. I think upping the temp is good advice too. Probably the easiest and least expensive things to try.
 
I am going to brew up another 20 gallons of wort at twice the OG, oxygenate the wort and dump it in at high kreusen. I will give you all a report on how things turn out. Thanks again.
 
Why are you doubling the OG? Are you trying to up the gravity of the original beer?

Yes a little.

I am worried about using amylase (Beano?) I have no idea how much to put in, how to use it, will it make the beer too dry? etc.

If anyone has first hand experience and could walk me through it I may consider it.
 
I wouldn't use amylase enzyme unless you want a really dry beer, or unless you mashed too high. Then again, if you used DME/LME and it was mashed high then you wouldn't have much of a choice. I've never personally used it but then again I've never had to either. If I get a stuck fermentation then I usually rack on to a yeast cake (not an option for you) or I pitch a big flippin starter at high krauesen. I think you've got the right idea, but I'd pitch more yeast in to the "starter beer" you are making. I mean you want to make sure you've got enough right?
 
Yes a little.

I am worried about using amylase (Beano?) I have no idea how much to put in, how to use it, will it make the beer too dry? etc.

If anyone has first hand experience and could walk me through it I may consider it.

Whatever you do, don't use beano. The beer will not stop fermenting until you pasteurize it or there is literally no starches or sugars left in the beer. Beano is crazy. It just doesn't stop.

A pure amylase enzyme will only do so much then stop. I have used it in "light beers" to drop the gravity down close to zero but the OG of those beers was around 1.030 with a FG around 1.006. With as much residual sugar as you have left in this beer I would guess that it would get you down to the 1.012 area but there's no way to know until you try it. When I have used it I have dosed 1 teaspoon per 6 gallons in secondary.

Give the High Gravity starter a try and see if it works. Make sure to make a big starter for your starter ;)

Good luck! :mug:
 
I've had great luck with champagne yeast restarting stuck fermentations. Only problem is it might dry out your beer more than you care for. If you mashed high, it's not as much of a problem. I'd definitely consider it over beano.
 
I wouldn't use amylase enzyme unless you want a really dry beer, or unless you mashed too high. Then again, if you used DME/LME and it was mashed high then you wouldn't have much of a choice. I've never personally used it but then again I've never had to either. If I get a stuck fermentation then I usually rack on to a yeast cake (not an option for you) or I pitch a big flippin starter at high krauesen. I think you've got the right idea, but I'd pitch more yeast in to the "starter beer" you are making. I mean you want to make sure you've got enough right?

Here is the plan. Brew up another 20 gallon batch. I picked up 60lbs of Alex Pale Extract, 8oz Perle, 16 oz Cascade, and 15- 11.5 gram US-05s. I will boil it up, chill, oxygenate, and pitch; the dump it on top at high kreusen. Anyone see a problem?
 
I don't see any problem, but I suspect the extract you are using is relatively unfermentable. Amylase enzyme is simple to use: sprinkle it in the fermenter.

Beano, by the way, is a completely different chemical (galactosidase) and should never be allowed near beer unless you are brewing a light, low-carbohydrate style.
 
I don't see any problem, but I suspect the extract you are using is relatively unfermentable. Amylase enzyme is simple to use: sprinkle it in the fermenter.

Beano, by the way, is a completely different chemical (galactosidase) and should never be allowed near beer unless you are brewing a light, low-carbohydrate style.

Thanks. If plan "A" doesnt work I will give it a shot.
 
Here is the plan. Brew up another 20 gallon batch. I picked up 60lbs of Alex Pale Extract, 8oz Perle, 16 oz Cascade, and 15- 11.5 gram US-05s. I will boil it up, chill, oxygenate, and pitch; the dump it on top at high kreusen. Anyone see a problem?

The above did not work, in fact my FG went up to 1.024:mad:

The good news is the beer tastes great!

Plan B: I am making a 2 gallon starter using 10 each wyeast 1056 and will re pitch. If the FG does not come down I will try the amylase at the recommended dose of 1/2 tsp per 5 gallons (13tsp).
 
I'm interested to see how far down this gets your beer.


I drew of some beer and filled my hydrometer tube two days before I pitched the yeast and amylse into the fermenter. I sprinkled a tad of amylase into the tube and shook it up. I am not sure if it is doing the same thing as what is going on in the fermenter, however it has quit bubling and the tube is at 1.011. With any luck the fermenter will do the same.
 
Quick recap. Initially when this batch got stuck the FG was ~1.021. I repitched using 15 each 11.5 gram US-05 with no improvement. The next time I brewed up another 20 gallon batch @ OG 1.096 and pitched 10 each 11.5 gram US-05 and let it reach full kreusen then poured it in on top of the 120 gallons of stuck brew. This resulted in my FG rising to 1.024 and remained stuck. Finally, I made a 1 gallon starter with 10 each Wyeast 1056. After 48 hours I added 1tsp for each 5 gallons of Crosby Baker Amylase Enzyme Formula to the starter, shook hell out of it and pitched on top of the batch. The result was a FG of 1.010 and a great big batch of very tasty ale. Thanks to all for your advice and suggestions:tank:
 

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