Help needed for eBrewing system I bought. (Plug is HHN 3 prong twist lock. 250v to the elements, switches and internals run 125v. Trips GFCI.)

[doug293cz]

Does my sketch up look like it is wired correctly?
Thanks!

The output of the PID is not wired correctly to drive the HLT contactor (relay.) The PID output is just a single pole relay, and does not provide any power on its own. You have to wire one hot to one terminal of the PID output, and then connect the other output terminal to the contactor coil. The other contactor coil connection goes to the other hot.

Can't tell if your selector switch is wired correctly, since there are many options for a switch with the PN you linked. Need to know whether it is a two or three position switch, and how many and what type (NO or NC) switch blocks are included.

Brew on

 

[GlenF]

https://www.reynoldsonline.com/ASSETS/DOCUMENTS/ITEMS/EN/ALBR800T2HGH17KB6AA_Spec.pdf
The selector switch is on page 4. I have an 800H-JR2

 

[GlenF]

And here is the temp controller:

Which wires should connect with which ports?

Thanks again!

 

[doug293cz]

https://www.reynoldsonline.com/ASSETS/DOCUMENTS/ITEMS/EN/ALBR800T2HGH17KB6AA_Spec.pdf
The selector switch is on page 4. I have an 800H-JR2

800H-JR2 or 800H-JR2A? The first is just the knob mechanism, but no actual switches. The second has two switch blocks and will work in your application, but the way you have it shown in your drawing would be incorrect.

Brew on

 

[GlenF]

800H-JR2 or 800H-JR2A? The first is just the knob mechanism, but no actual switches. The second has two switch blocks and will work in your application, but thedoesn way you have it shown in your drawing would be incorrect.

Brew on

The switch doesn't say 2A, but I'm guessing that's the one, because it has 3 settings. The middle position is off, and left and right each have wired out connections. One controls HLT and one the BK.

 

[GlenF]

Also, I'm wondering if I could just swap the current relay switches for the new 240v coil ones and then reroute whatever is connected to the ground/ neutral wire to one hot leg so that it all runs 240v instead of 120/ 240v. Would that work? Seems to be the simplest route, rather than rewiring everything....

 

[doug293cz]

Also, I'm wondering if I could just swap the current relay switches for the new 240v coil ones and then reroute whatever is connected to the ground/ neutral wire to one hot leg so that it all runs 240v instead of 120/ 240v. Would that work? Seems to be the simplest route, rather than rewiring everything....

That's basically all that is required. Just have to make sure that the hot you swap for N/G is opposite of the one connected to the other power input on any device.

If you use the wrong hot, I don't think there are any scenarios where that can result in a hot to hot short. The device "powered" with two wires of the same hot phase will just not work.

Brew on

 

[GlenF]

Good news, everyone!

So I wired in the new 220v coil relay contactors and traced the wiring back to determine which hot leg was already in use. I then disconnected the neutral/ ground and connected the other hot leg to the coils and other components. Plugged everything in, breaker didn't trip, temp controller lit up and gave an accurate ambient temp and set-temp reading, and everything seems to run as intended! Selector switch works to control HLT vs. BK elements, and the 12v pumps all work.

Thank you so much for your help, insight, and patience!!
If you're ever in Urbana, IL, hit me up, because beer's on me

 

[doug293cz]

Congrats. Always good to hear success stories.

Brew on