Help! BIAB Bag tear

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Jhedrick83

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Help! I’m in the middle of mashing a Belgian Dubbel and my BIAB Bag must have a developed a hole as there is clearly grain that has gotten through. What should I do? 30 minutes until my bag hoist. I’d hate to have wasted all morning..
 
Current plan is to transfer the wort out the BK into a spare Home Depot bucket that I just added my spare BIAB bag to. But I’m not sure if the HD can safely take 155 degree water.
 
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Well, that’s a first for me. I’m using an induction top. The last two brew days I’ve used it for her been absolutely fine. I wonder what the difference is. I’m going to transfer all the wort out and check inside the kettle to see if there’s any of the bag melted onto the kettle. Is the wort even worth saving? Will melted bag ruin the batch?
 
this is super baked on the bottom. I have all my work out and covered so no bugs getting it. I’m going to try and clean the bottom of the kettle. If anyone has suggestions, I’d love them.
 
PBW in hot water. Let it sit overnight. See if it will lift out, or use a plastic pan scraper to get it out.

Dobie pads may work without scratching the kettle.

Is that batch of wort trash now? I have it all saved but I’m wondering if that’s what happened to the bag it was in, do I really want to continue trying to brew with it. Never happened to me before so any input is appreciated. I’m kind of leaning better safe than sorry.
 
Is that batch of wort trash now? I have it all saved but I’m wondering if that’s what happened to the bag it was in, do I really want to continue trying to brew with it. Never happened to me before so any input is appreciated. I’m kind of leaning better safe than sorry.

Don't know--it might have some scorched plastic flavor. But maybe not. You've come this far, ferment it and see how it turns out. Maybe it will be OK. Don't give up on it yet.
 
Don't know--it might have some scorched plastic flavor. But maybe not. You've come this far, ferment it and see how it turns out. Maybe it will be OK. Don't give up on it yet.

Part of the problem is I single vessel BIAB. So the kettle with the scorched plastic is my BK and I still have to boil it. I don’t have a great way to store this unless I chill it and put it in a Home Depot bucket. Which I’m not sure it’s a great idea.
 
Part of the problem is I single vessel BIAB. So the kettle with the scorched plastic is my BK and I still have to boil it. I don’t have a great way to store this unless I chill it and put it in a Home Depot bucket. Which I’m not sure it’s a great idea.

Can you borrow someone's kettle to boil your wort? Otherwise, if you can clean your kettle in say an hour or two and get your wort back in it to boil, you shouldn't have much problems. Setting it aside in covered buckets for a short time would minimize any infection starting, and you're going to boil it anyway.
 
Part of the problem is I single vessel BIAB. So the kettle with the scorched plastic is my BK and I still have to boil it. I don’t have a great way to store this unless I chill it and put it in a Home Depot bucket. Which I’m not sure it’s a great idea.
My 2-cents.
That looks like the grain/sugar scorched in addition to the bag. Might be mostly grain.
In any case just taste the liquid, you should be able to taste if it has taken a burnt flavor.

As for the kettle, put a wire wheel on your drill or use a scotch bright (Green) pad to remove the burnt on stuff.
You wont hurt the stainless with either method and PBW is not likely to remove if fast enough and if it is much nylon I doubt PBW will touch it.
 
My 2-cents.
That looks like the grain/sugar scorched in addition to the bag. Might be mostly grain.
In any case just taste the liquid, you should be able to taste if it has taken a burnt flavor.

As for the kettle, put a wire wheel on your drill or use a scotch bright (Green) pad to remove the burnt on stuff.
You wont hurt the stainless with either method and PBW is not likely to remove if fast enough and if it is much nylon I doubt PBW will touch it.

Well. I tried it and it does have a little smokiness to it. I’m just not sure if that’s psychosomatic or not. Even if I can get my kettle clean in the next 30 minutes, I’m probably going to run out of time to finish this today. 90 minute boil, then chill and aerate. Afraid I’m probably just going have to dump it. Friday or Monday I’ll try again.
 
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The bag took a sever beating, similar to what it would look like if it had caught on fire.
Just drinking a whole batch with a high probability that it contains unwanted chemicals isn't worth it.
I would do what was mentioned above--get a false bottom.
 
The bag took a sever beating, similar to what it would look like if it had caught on fire.
Just drinking a whole batch with a high probability that it contains unwanted chemicals isn't worth it.
I would do what was mentioned above--get a false bottom.
Yeah you might want to just chalk it up to experience and start new.
 
The holes on the bottom look like that. The hole on the side I don’t quite get as much. Wonder what the hell happened. I’ll try and track down a false bottom to fit. First issue after nearly a year of brewing.
 
The holes on the bottom look like that. The hole on the side I don’t quite get as much. Wonder what the hell happened. I’ll try and track down a false bottom to fit. First issue after nearly a year of brewing.
We've all had something go wrong from time to time and most of us will again!
I saw a recent post from another brewer who had his entire batch go down the drain because a fitting failed on his bucket.
 
Somewhat related, once I get the kettle cleaned, would it be a good idea to re-passivize the kettle?
You could but in my Opinion not necessary.
It's not like you leave liquid in it for weeks like a fermenter.
Passivization is more aimed at low oxygen corosion that occurs with stainless that is kept in contact with low oxygen water for extended periods. Your kettle is wet for what, half a day then sits dry for the majority of its time. That allows the natural oxide layer of stainless to build recover. We don't passivate our kitchen pans right?
 
I bet my difference today is this is my first step mash with the induction burner. I probably should’ve just lifted the bag with my hoist while stepping up. I never had an issue on the cooktop.
 
I burned one of my Wisler bags back in my BIAB days. Unfortunately it was one of the only batches I dumped because of the off taste.
 
Just ordered another Wilser bag and a false bottom from Norcal. I'll be trying again friday if I can get the kettle clean and schedule permits. Obviously the false bottom won't be here by then but I can just lift the bag for temp adjustments. Thanks guys.
 
The bag took a sever beating, similar to what it would look like if it had caught on fire.
Just drinking a whole batch with a high probability that it contains unwanted chemicals isn't worth it.
I would do what was mentioned above--get a false bottom.
Do the false bottoms also heat up on an induction plate? I don't know how high up the induction field goes, or if it penetrates the outer kettle...
 
Dang that sucks. I BIAB on a propane burner and anytime I have to turn heat back up for mash in I lift the bag a little. I have only done single infusion mash though in my set up. Anything more then single infusion I get the cooler mash ton out for.

Good luck on round two! My most recent attempt at that style I used my cooler mash ton. I got a stuck mash, and stuck sparge due to not having a complete set up.
 
Also in addition to false bottom, roll the bag over the kettles edge as much as you can, so that there will less or no bag folds left at the bottom. The heat will escape from the bottom better this way. I also burnt my bag when I didn't do this.
 
Do the false bottoms also heat up on an induction plate? I don't know how high up the induction field goes, or if it penetrates the outer kettle...
Sorry, I don't know have personal experience with an induction plate. If you don't get an answer here, post it as new in BIAB Brewing.
 
Do the false bottoms also heat up on an induction plate? I don't know how high up the induction field goes, or if it penetrates the outer kettle...
There is a research paper on induction cooking efficiency. Although it depends on magnetic field strength and frequency, which are different across different induction cooking devices there are examples brought, which have 0.45 and 0.3mm penetration depths. So if your induction cooktop is something similar and the kettles bottom is 0.6mm thick for example, then your false bottom shouldn't be heated directly by the magnetic field. ...I think
The research paper:
https://www.researchgate.net/public..._the_energy_efficiency_of_induction_cooking_2
 
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I asked this question to NorCal and it sounds like he doesn’t think it’s an issue. I’ll report back once the false bottom arrives and I get a chance to test it out.
 
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