Hello All, first batch is in primary!

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Jpeverini

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Hey everyone, I'm new to home brewing, but have been wanting to do it for years. My girlfriend bought me an early birthday present this weekend, a kit!

So, for my first brew, I am doing an IPA. We purchased the kit from the guys at SF Beercraft. Good deal and they were very helpful. Anyway, I created a blog that I will update time to time with my current batches and their process. Also, the blog, title Beer'd, will discuss amazing beards that I see. Beers and Beards, nothing says manly more.

Anyway, glad to be a new part of the forum and hope to contribute as much as I can.

Link to blog: http://beerdme.blogspot.com/
 
Congrats, good luck, and welcome to the forum! There is a ton of useful information here on the boards and the wiki, so hopefully you will find it all helpful.

I know I have ... eight batches and counting. Cheers! :mug:
 
Haha thanks, Brew'migos. My wallet will hurt a lot less then going out and buying every beer I want to drink... but then again, maybe the gearhead side of me will prevail and I will end up with a crazy expensive set up. Only time will tell.
 
Welcome, man! I'm still waiting to see a picture of an awesome beard on your blog...
 
Haha thanks, Brew'migos. My wallet will hurt a lot less then going out and buying every beer I want to drink... but then again, maybe the gearhead side of me will prevail and I will end up with a crazy expensive set up. Only time will tell.

Yea, I had the same thought process. It was how I sold this hobby to SWMBO. Needless to say, she is still waiting for the savings
 
I'll give you that beards are very manly, but not beer! Beer is really a girl's drink. :rockin:

Beer is the best thing to happen to human kind since well, EVER!:ban:
 
My girlfriend bought me an early birthday present this weekend, a kit!

My girl bought me one for Christmas a couple of years ago... and she says it was the worst gift for me ever. Tells me if I put half the effort in my schooling as I do my beer brewing I would have graduated by now... oh well there is really no stable job market yet for my CM degree
 
What a great way to start off the beards, Al, that is classic and welcome from another noob!
 
Thanks for the love guys, now I have a question.

When should I start my next batch? I was thinking of leaving the first in the primary for 7 - 10 days, then starting the another batch and I will leave that in the primary for about 2 weeks, while letting the 1st batch sit in the secondary. Then bottle the first and let the second batch have its shot in the secondary.

I am a little impatient I guess. I leave to Egypt for 2 weeks December 9, and was planning to bottle age the first batch then AND start the second batch, but was wondering if you fellas thought it was a bad idea to push that schedule up a bit?
 
I transferred my first batch to secondary after about a week and a half just so I could free up my primary for another batch. I would recommend starting another as soon as possible... why wait? Basically you're considering doing exactly what i did with my first few batches.

Eventually I went nuts on Craigslist and amassed a buttload of brewing equipment, including buckets and carboys. Now I mainly keep my beers in primary until bottling unless it's a high gravity beer or I really need to free up a primary.
 
cool, thanks for the advice. I have been reading up a lot about just using a primary fermentation then going to bottling versus going primary/secondary/then bottling.

Why have you switched to only using a primary on most beers?
 
Well for me it was lazyness and the fact that keeping the yeast with the beer a bit longer let it clean up some byproducts of fermentation that it wouldn't do if it were removed from the yeast cake.
You also lessen chances of infecting or oxygenating the beer by less handling.
 
Ok, good to know. While I am at it, I have the the following general directions from the place where I bought my kit;

Once you understand these basic instructions, you may want to try a more advanced method (Partial Mash) of brewing.


Fill a 5 gallon stainless steel or enamel pot 2/3 full of water (3 gallons more or less).
Place specialty grains into cheesecloth grain bag and add this bag to the pot of cold water. Add water treatment if called for. Heat this pot at high temperature. At the point you begin to see steam starting to rise from the surface of the water (145° to 165°) turn off the stove and cover the pot with the lid. Steep grains for 35 minutes (more or less). Remove grains and discard them. You now have a grain tea and the start of your WORT.
Note: WORT is essentially beer before fermentation.
Note: Please do not heat these grains to anywhere near boiling, as this will leach tannins (tannic acid) from the husk of the grains and could give your beer an astringent characteristic.
Heat WORT at high temperature until close to a boil (pot starts making noise).
If using a gas stove turn off fire. If using an electric stove, remove the pot from the burner (very important).
Add all of the malt extract (liquid or dry) and first addition of hops. Stir until well mixed.
Return WORT to burner. Bring to a full boil. Watch pot carefully at this point. A foam develops on the surface of the WORT and it could rise above the surface of the pot and create a mess. Watch pot until foam disappears.
Achieve a good strong ROLLING boil. This is important as the WORT needs to be agitated as much as possible to coagulate undesirable proteins and release desirable oils from the hops.
Boil vigorously for 60 minutes total, adding hops at intervals indicated on the recipe sheet.
At end of boil (after 60 minutes), turn off heat and COVER POT WITH LID.
Place covered pot on ice and water bath (sink) for 45 minutes. This will be added to 2.5 gallons of cool water which will further reduce the temperature.
START YEAST STARTER See below
Visit the Yeast section of our store to find the yeast for your next batch of beer
IMPORTANT - Place 2.5 gallons of cool water in your primary fermenter. Pour 1/3 of cooled WORT into fermenter with water. PITCH (add) yeast.
Vigorously pour other 2/3 of cooled WORT into fermenter over yeast
.
Note: this step aerates the WORT and mixes the yeast without having to stir or shake.

Is that bold and highlighted part about adding 2.5 gallons to the primary fermentation chamber always followed?? I read a little bit of the Palmer guide and didn't see it. And I am trying to find a simple recipe for my next batch (I really want a partial mash belgium ale) but I dont see that step in any directions. Please help, as this is confusing the hell out of me. I searched, but I think I suck at searching... haha
 
How you top off your extract beers isn't really important as far as I can tell. In fact, I don't really measure out my boils perfectly... I usually do about 3-4 gallons and then a portion of it evaporates during the boil. So when I'm done I typically pour about 2/3 of the cooled wort into my primary bucket straight from the kettle. Then I'll pour the remaining 1/3 through a strainer and top that off with enough water to make 5 gallons. I try to splash a lot and shake up the top off water before adding it; you want to get enough oxygen in there to make the yeasties happy, reproductive members of the wort community.

So basically, you can do as much of a boil as you want. You can do the recommended "3 gallons more or less" or you can do more (although I probably wouldn't do less than that). You get more hop bitterness from larger boils since you're diluting a smaller portion of the batch. Basically you're limited by your brew kettle; I have a 5 gallon so about 3.5 gallons plus all the extract will get me to about 4 gallons. Much higher than that and you're risking boil overs.

As for the yeast, I typically pitch dry yeast straight from the packet onto the full 5 gallons in the primary and then give it about 10-15 minutes to rehydrate before shaking to mix it up and aerate. Some people like to hydrate their dry yeast in warm water before pitching. Or you can pitch the yeast before adding all the top off water. It all works, it's just a matter of finding what works best for you as the brewer. Dry yeast is pretty forgiving. It can be difficult for those of us who always want to do things the "right" way. In brewing, there are many ways to do different things and few are more right than others.
 
Very thoughtful response. Thank you. It really helped clear up some issues that I have. I think my main problem right now is that I want to know it all without going through the pain of doing it all. Don't get me wrong, I want to do it all too, but I would like to bee 100% confident when doing it. This of course is impossible, so any thoughtful responses like your really help get me on my way.
 
Hey, we've all been there... I dutifully read Palmer's How to Brew, at least the brewing your first beer section and referenced it constantly while making my first kit. I also got discouraged over contradicting information between it and the brew kit's instructions.

What kind of kit did you get? Some have better instructions than others and yours seem pretty awful. There are few other things I do differently though if you'd like to hear them...

-I steep my grains at about 150-155° for 20-30 minutes; if you have a thermometer, you don't have to turn off the stove or put the lid on. I just maintain that temp for the time needed to steep. With how long it takes to bring this volume of water to a boil, I can't imagine letting it cool during steeping. I've read that as long as you don't steep at temps above 170° you're good; otherwise you risk leeching tannin flavors. Also, never squeeze the grain bag; just let it drain out on its own then toss it.

-The instructions are spot on about removing the pot from the burner before adding extracts; otherwise you risk scorching. A thermometer is also extremely handy for avoiding boil-overs; I have never had one thanks to careful temperature monitoring. I try to maintain exactly 212° so it's just barely bubbling, rather than a full-on pasta water boil.

-I cool in an ice bath in my sink; I go through about 20 lbs of ice so keep that in mind.
 
-I steep my grains at about 150-155° for 20-30 minutes; if you have a thermometer, you don't have to turn off the stove or put the lid on. I just maintain that temp for the time needed to steep. With how long it takes to bring this volume of water to a boil, I can't imagine letting it cool during steeping. I've read that as long as you don't steep at temps above 170° you're good; otherwise you risk leeching tannin flavors. Also, never squeeze the grain bag; just let it drain out on its own then toss it.

Perhaps I'm playing with fire, but I let my grains steep at temps up to 190-195, and didn't have any sort of tannins. The only reason I did this was because Papazian said to steep them as you bring them to a boil. I guess in the future I'll be more cautious.
 
Perhaps I'm playing with fire, but I let my grains steep at temps up to 190-195, and didn't have any sort of tannins. The only reason I did this was because Papazian said to steep them as you bring them to a boil. I guess in the future I'll be more cautious.

Like all things in brewing, there is conflicting info and different schools of thought. The hard part is just sticking to what works for you.

I did read the 170° thing in Palmer's book... here, I found it:

John Palmer said:
The extraction of tannins is especially prevalent if the water is too hot - above 170°F. Previous practices regarding the use of specialty grains had the brewer putting the grain in the pot and bringing it to a boil before removal. That method often resulted in tannin extraction.

How To Brew by John Palmer - Chapter 13.2 Mechanics of Steeping

I doubt it would be noticeable without actually boiling the grains, but I suppose some things are worth not risking. He also recommends steeping for a full 30 minutes at 160°F, so I'll probably do that from now on. I believe that Papazian's book recommended just dumping the grains in while heating up and then pulling them out with a strainer before the boil.

I just use my handy digital probe thermometer and keep a constant temperature.
 
I'm brewing on an electric stove, and my oven doesn't set low enough to do the oven trick, so keeping a consistent temperature is very difficult. That's why I've gone with the "steep and remove before boil" technique.

But, on a side note, I've NEVER let my steeping grains boil. Of course, now that I'm reading all of this, I'm feeling ever so tempted to try the "gelatin" fix if I start to sense any astringency.
 
I use an old, unevenly-heating electric stove and can generally get it to maintain a temperature within 5° if I monitor the situation. I use this thermometer and it works great for letting me know when I'm up to temperature and as a timer for the boil. I highly recommend it, or any similar thermometer with a pan clip.
 
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