Heat element with built in controller?

[Oddball]

I am looking to build a very simple electric heat element for my kettle. I don't really have a lot to spend on it and basically just want to move my existing 10-12 gallon three tier system into my basement. I really want to keep it simple as I really know very little about electrical wiring.

I came across this on ebay and it is exactly what I am looking to build:

[IMG]http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab10/fourwindsjcc/heatelementinside_zpsd08448de.jpg[/IMG]



So far I have only been able to find this product up to 1800 watts, which from what I understand is not enough to boil 10-12 gallons.

I am trying to piece together a parts list using existing products/builds from various websites (including this one) and this is what I have so far:

1. Camco 02962/02963 5500w/240v screw in lime life ripple water heater element- ultra low watt density
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPG4LI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
2. Stainless steel 304 cast pipe fitting hex locknut mss sp-114, 1 " NPT female and gasket
3. Solid state relay switching, Potentiometer with knob
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140553985193?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
4. SJEOOW power cord with thermoplastic elastomer jacket, NEMA L6-30P plug/ pigtail, and PG19 cord grip
5. small junction box

What are your thought on this? Any suggestions or feedback would be greatly appreciated.

I will also need help with wiring if anyone has any tips.

Thanks...

 

[Mojzis]

I recently made the switch also. I have the camco element with a 240v supply. To dial down the boils I bought the DIY kit from still dragon (~45$). Works like a charm and simple to wire.

It's not exactly like your picture, but it's close. The controller is just a little ways from the kettle. But if it were connected i would think heat could be an issue for the ssr.

 

[Oddball]

I recently made the switch also. I have the camco element with a 240v supply. To dial down the boils I bought the DIY kit from still dragon (~45$). Works like a charm and simple to wire.

It's not exactly like your picture, but it's close. The controller is just a little ways from the kettle. But if it were connected i would think heat could be an issue for the ssr.

That kit has definitely helped me in trying to make my list. The shipping to Canada was $30 ($60 total) so I figured I could do it myself for cheaper. Also, having the controller directly on the kettle will reduce the cost of wires and plugs. I want bare bones minimum to start with.

 

[mattd2]

That kit has definitely helped me in trying to make my list. The shipping to Canada was $30 ($60 total) so I figured I could do it myself for cheaper. Also, having the controller directly on the kettle will reduce the cost of wires and plugs. I want bare bones minimum to start with.

Check out ebay for an SCR - http://www.ebay.com/itm/4000W-AC-22...ltDomain_0&hash=item3f22632aca#ht_4320wt_1161 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-4000W-A...ltDomain_0&hash=item3cd04414bd#ht_1619wt_1399
Basically that is what the still dragon kit is anyway. Mount that in a single junction box on the element cable. No extra plugs/sockets. Your extras over mounting on the element itself will be an extra JB (but you will be able to make the element box smaller if possible) and a coble of wire glands.

 

[Oddball]

Check out ebay for an SCR - http://www.ebay.com/itm/4000W-AC-22...ltDomain_0&hash=item3f22632aca#ht_4320wt_1161 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-4000W-A...ltDomain_0&hash=item3cd04414bd#ht_1619wt_1399
Basically that is what the still dragon kit is anyway. Mount that in a single junction box on the element cable. No extra plugs/sockets. Your extras over mounting on the element itself will be an extra JB (but you will be able to make the element box smaller if possible) and a coble of wire glands.

Thanks, that is definitely a better deal than the other one I found.

Just to be clear....Are you saying that I will need 2 junction boxes? Could I not just have it all in one box mounted on the outside of the pot?

Also, does anyone have any insight as to how this would be wired?

Edit: I just noticed that the SCR above says 4000 watts. Will that be ok for the 5400watt camco element?

 

[mattd2]

Thanks, that is definitely a better deal than the other one I found.

Just to be clear....Are you saying that I will need 2 junction boxes? Could I not just have it all in one box mounted on the outside of the pot?

Also, does anyone have any insight as to how this would be wired?

Edit: I just noticed that the SCR above says 4000 watts. Will that be ok for the 5400watt camco element?

Damn sorry, no I completely missed that. I would look for one around 8-10 kW to give you a bit of capacity so the thing isn't too hot.
Yes you could wire it in the element housing but again you might be getting it too hot and risk it failing, don't know 100% though.
If it was me I would go with a seperate box for the controller (just inline of the cord so no need for more plugs, etc.) only because I would want it to close to any wet areas which water could get inside where the knob/pot. sticks out.

 

[mattd2]

Edit - Damn double post!

 

[SAMBUCA]

I only use 1 3500watt element @ 220.( only 20 amp breaker required)in my kettle. Then you don`t need any control but on/off as it will need to be going 100%all the time. I always start with my water at room temp. and use my counterflow chiller with hot tap water to pre heat the water to 125F as it enters the kettle.This saves a lot of waiting.I can do a 14 gallon all grain in 5 hours and I fly sparge very slowly.The timing is perfect the wort comes to boil just as the mash tun runs dry.

 

[Oddball]

I guess the ssr I originally linked in the first post wouldn't work either. I found a few on ebay from 6500w-10000w at anywhere from $13-$18 so I will probably go with one of those.

I only use 1 3500watt element @ 220.( only 20 amp breaker required)in my kettle. Then you don`t need any control but on/off as it will need to be going 100%all the time. I always start with my water at room temp. and use my counterflow chiller with hot tap water to pre heat the water to 125F as it enters the kettle.This saves a lot of waiting.I can do a 14 gallon all grain in 5 hours and I fly sparge very slowly.The timing is perfect the wort comes to boil just as the mash tun runs dry.

That is certainly an option. I guess my reasoning for a controller was so that the boil doesn't get too crazy with the element on full power the whole time. You don't have any problems with that?

My hot tap water comes out at around 130F so I figured that the 5400 w element would work pretty efficiently for my set up.

Yes you could wire it in the element housing but again you might be getting it too hot and risk it failing, don't know 100% though.

Does anyone else see an issue here. I don't want to build this think only to have it fail on the first try...

 

[mattd2]

Does anyone else see an issue here. I don't want to build this think only to have it fail on the first try...

I have one that I use to slow down my drill for grinding grain. I have tried it on my element for a couple of batches and it lasted for the boil without the "box" getting to hot. This was a 4000W controlling one of my 2000W elements (hence my recomendation to try get one that is rated for approx 2x you load). This is install as per my description - in a seperate box on an extension lead.

 

[Oddball]

I am pretty sure I am going with the 10000w just as a precaution. It is the same price as the one I originally posted. I will also look into a small extension box to put some space between the pot and the controller. Thanks for your help/input Matt.

As a possible alternative, is there some kind of insulation that could line the box to help with heat?

 

[orangehero]

The rating of the SSR isn't what determines how hot it gets. A watt is a watt. Although the bottom shelf chinese stuff may not be built entirely up to the specified rating so it would be a good decision to get one rated for more than you're going to use.

Insulation would be counter-productive and would definitely cause it to overheat. You may be ok getting an aluminum box and mounting the SSR directly to it. If not you'll need a heatsink. I remember someone recommending placing a piece of crayon on one of the SSR screws, and if it melts it's too hot.

 

[pfish83]

wondering how this turned out. do you have pics and a parts list?