Grainfather!!

[treacheroustexan]

I should be clear that I'm not trying to imply that in all situations defective item should be returned back just as any company that quickly replaces an item without investigating the cause can be a bad thing too.

I can ensure you they did a good amount of investigating before sending me this unit. I've been without my unit for well over a month now. I had to send all kinds of pictures and videos of the inside of the control box, etc. I just got the replacement today so I can finally brew this weekend!

 

[jlinz]

Just pulled the trigger! By the way, Northern Brewer is having a sweet 16 sale. 16% off a single item. Got my Grainfather for 840 bucks.

 

[jlinz]

Are PBW or Oxyclean Free fine to clean the grainfather? And, do folks just throw pellets right in the boil without clogging the filter?

 

[treacheroustexan]

Are PBW or Oxyclean Free fine to clean the grainfather? And, do folks just throw pellets right in the boil without clogging the filter?

I use oxyclean. For my hoppier beers now I use a paint strainer bag to add my hops in, but I've used 8 oz of pellets with no bag and it was fine.. just a little slower transfer at the end of the boil.

 

[2LiveBrewCrew]

Do you use the same amount of Oxiclean as you would use PBW?

 

[treacheroustexan]

I don't measure.. I just keep pouring it in until I say "looks about right" in my head.. haha.

 

[Frilock]

Are PBW or Oxyclean Free fine to clean the grainfather? And, do folks just throw pellets right in the boil without clogging the filter?

I use PBW, though from what I gather its basically oxyclean with a few other things in it. There's some threads around here about it, can't remember where though.

As far as the hops go I toss them right in. So far I haven't made anything TOO hoppy and clogs I've had so far (the spring under the check valve ball mostly but some on the filter in the boiler) seem to be mostly grain husks that have somehow made it into the boiler (I think some are slipping down between the basket and the side of the unit when I'm doughing in. I'm going to try the towel around the edge trick to see if that stops it next time). According to some stuff I've seen on youtube and elsewhere though, some people are using the grain basket as a hop spider. Its also supposed to help intensify the boiling somehow. I haven't done it myself (and probably won't since that would requiring dumping the grain and cleaning it before the boil starts and I prefer to just clean everything at one) but its worth a shot I suppose.

 

[RedlegEd]

According to some stuff I've seen on youtube and elsewhere though, some people are using the grain basket as a hop spider. Its also supposed to help intensify the boiling somehow. I haven't done it myself (and probably won't since that would requiring dumping the grain and cleaning it before the boil starts and I prefer to just clean everything at one) but its worth a shot I suppose.

Hi. I really don't recommend using the grain basket as a hop spider. @Frilock 's point of having to clean the grain pipe before re-use makes sense, but more importantly, it's a boil over waiting to happen, as well as running a real risk of scorching your wort. I use hop pellets in a 1 gal paint strainer inside an 4" Arborfab hop basket. That catches most of the hop gunk and still gives me pretty good utilization. That said, I prefer maltier beers, so I'm not blasting my beer with a ton of hops. Hope this helps. Ed

 

[jschein]

Are PBW or Oxyclean Free fine to clean the grainfather? And, do folks just throw pellets right in the boil without clogging the filter?

And run whatever cleaner you use a couple of times before first use. Throw the pellets in unless you are using a ton (5 oz) or more. I found 5 or more the flow slows down too much for my liking.

 

[Frilock]

I bought this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TRWJLA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Despite the picture, there's no hole. Easy enough to drill one, though.

I would go bigger. I feel like mine could easily get knocked over.

According to the amazon page, the large size ones DO have a hole in the middle, but those answers are kind of old so probably disregard my statement.

 

[Hackwood]

Just like jlinz I also just pulled the trigger on a Grainfather. Couldn't pass up the discount. Added in a Graincoat and should be minimizing my brew equipment in the near future. Been thinking about getting a GF since they came out and am excited to finally get to put it through it's paces.

On another note, anyone looking to purchase a 3-tier any time soon. haha

YAY GRAINFATHER!

 

[jlinz]

Just like jlinz I also just pulled the trigger on a Grainfather. Couldn't pass up the discount. Added in a Graincoat and should be minimizing my brew equipment in the near future. Been thinking about getting a GF since they came out and am excited to finally get to put it through it's paces.

On another note, anyone looking to purchase a 3-tier any time soon. haha

YAY GRAINFATHER!

Nice man! Did you use that sweet 16 deal with NB?

 

[sgreene820]

First batch with my replacement Grainfather (after failure of early model Gf Connect). Same mash issues as earlier, I need about 105 minutes to hit Gravity targets, maybe I need to stir more early in the mash? I think my LHBS may have their crusher set coarse.

Pump wouldn't prime right away while cooling, it makes a loud hum but eventually it primes and starts. This doesn't inspire confidence.

 

[roboto65]

My local shop is ordering mine hopefully get to brew this time home. Tugboat Capt home a week gone for 2 so hope I get to play this time home or I will have to wait do NOT want to do that LOL
Like to support my local shop! May cost more but hey he is there in a pinch if I need something quick..

 

[treacheroustexan]

First batch with my replacement Grainfather (after failure of early model Gf Connect). Same mash issues as earlier, I need about 105 minutes to hit Gravity targets, maybe I need to stir more early in the mash? I think my LHBS may have their crusher set coarse.

Pump wouldn't prime right away while cooling, it makes a loud hum but eventually it primes and starts. This doesn't inspire confidence.

Got my replacement on Wednesday and my pump did the same thing during the initial cleaning. It took me a good 30 minutes of turning it on and off to get it to work. Kept getting the loud humming noise too, and this was after I removed the ball and spring.

I'm doing the first brew on it tonight. I'll report back any pump issues/solutions.

 

[Sadu]

Did my first Grainfather batch yesterday. Overall loved the simplicity of the thing and no issues with the pump despite a big 2lb load of fresh hops off the vine (I used a hop sock).

I got terrible efficiency though, about 60% where I'd normally get 80%ish with my BIAB system. I think my crush was too fine and caused a partially stuck mash.

I normally have my crush super fine for BIAB so I increased the gap size a bit. Recipe has 5% oats and 5% wheat.

I noticed that a lot of the recirculation was heading down the overflow pipe. If I turned off the pump the water was definitely filtering through the grain bed, just slowly. Is a bit of overflow normal or is that indicative of a problem? I'm assuming this is the reason for the poor efficiency.

I'm thinking next time I condition the grain when milling, increase the gap a bit more, and possibly look into some rice/oat hulls. Is that necessary for a pale ale type brew or only when the wheat/rye is over a certain amount?

 

[Minky]

For those who are having trouble getting the pump to start the recirculation, try turning on the pump before opening the valve. Then slowly open the valve a little at a time. I have found this to work most of the time. If it doesn't start, turn off the pump, close the valve, and try again. It seems that the pump cavitates pretty easily and needs a little finessing at times.

 

[sgreene820]

Got my replacement on Wednesday and my pump did the same thing during the initial cleaning. It took me a good 30 minutes of turning it on and off to get it to work. Kept getting the loud humming noise too, and this was after I removed the ball and spring.

I'm doing the first brew on it tonight. I'll report back any pump issues/solutions.

I got through the initial cleaning, as well the mash and boil before problems. I eventually got it started for cooling, but stopped again on the cleaning cycle. I had to empty by hand. I'll try a rinse tomorrow. Fortunately, I have my original boiler (with GF Connect v1 welded to the power cord) as a potential pump donor. I've got an email in to the company. I'll let everyone know what develops.

 

[treacheroustexan]

I got through the initial cleaning, as well the mash and boil before problems. I eventually got it started for cooling, but stopped again on the cleaning cycle. I had to empty by hand. I'll try a rinse tomorrow. Fortunately, I have my original boiler (with GF Connect v1 welded to the power cord) as a potential pump donor. I've got an email in to the company. I'll let everyone know what develops.

I just emailed the company as well. Half way through my mash the pump stopped again. Had to leave it off for 20 minutes before it started back up. I have my original boiler w/ pump as well. Might need to swap since on two yesrs my pump has never done this on my old unit.

 

[treacheroustexan]

Well I'm stuck. Time to chill and it won't kick on. Been trying for an hour. I can't seem to catch a break with this product.

 

[rossi46]

My pump used to have problems also, I took it apart, cleaned it, and put keg lube on the impeller shaft. Haven't had a problem since. I lube the shaft every other brew now.

 

[treacheroustexan]

I'm transferring my hot wort with an auto siphon, and then switching to my old pump real quick, then dumping back in to chill. Definitely shouldn't have to be doing this though. I tried everything I could think of for the past two hours.

Update: switching pumps worked perfectly. But it was late and I was tired so I only ran wort through ny old pump to sanitize at 165 F. Hoping I don't get an infection lol.

 

[doogster]

I'm transferring my hot wort with an auto siphon, and then switching to my old pump real quick, then dumping back in to chill. Definitely shouldn't have to be doing this though. I tried everything I could think of for the past two hours.

Update: switching pumps worked perfectly. But it was late and I was tired so I only ran wort through ny old pump to sanitize at 165 F. Hoping I don't get an infection lol.

Damn! You cannot catch a break! Wonder what changed between the old and the new pumps.

 

[jlinz]

Damn! You cannot catch a break! Wonder what changed between the old and the new pumps.

I hope nothing!

 

[roboto65]

I hope nothing either as I have one on the way..

 

[vbman29]

My connect controller is showing the temp in Celsius. Can anyone tell me how to get it to switch to Fahrenheit? I can see it correctly on the app, but not on the controller itself.

 

[treacheroustexan]

My connect controller is showing the temp in Celsius. Can anyone tell me how to get it to switch to Fahrenheit? I can see it correctly on the app, but not on the controller itself.

Hold the set button on the controller.

 

[vbman29]

Hold the set button on the controller.

That worked. Thanks!

 

[couchsending]

Whelp after maybe close to 75 or so brews my Grainfather finally **** the bed. Brewday yesterday Mash went fine, heating wort up to a boil and the element would trip at 180 or so. I was able to nurse it up to a boil between switching to Mash and constantly biting the reset button. Once at boil I could leave it on Mash and it wouldn’t trip. Boil wasn’t amazing but with the lid on it worked.

Went to try another brew this AM. Same thing but it finally just died after the initial mash step. Won’t heat up at all now, no matter what I do. I have my old controller, and tried plugging element right into the wall, didn’t make a difference.

Anyone had their element replaced? Is it even an option?

 

[jlinz]

Whelp after maybe close to 75 or so brews my Grainfather finally poopy the bed. Brewday yesterday Mash went fine, heating wort up to a boil and the element would trip at 180 or so. I was able to nurse it up to a boil between switching to Mash and constantly biting the reset button. Once at boil I could leave it on Mash and it wouldn’t trip. Boil wasn’t amazing but with the lid on it worked.

Went to try another brew this AM. Same thing but it finally just died after the initial mash step. Won’t heat up at all now, no matter what I do. I have my old controller, and tried plugging element right into the wall, didn’t make a difference.

Anyone had their element replaced? Is it even an option?

I think they are welded into the unit. You will probably have to replace the whole thing.

 

[jlinz]

For some reason, I'm a bit puzzled by the Grainfather recipe creator after using Beersmith for years. All I want is 5 gallons in the fermenter, so I will be able to fill up a corny keg afterwards. Under the information part of the recipe I design, do I just put 5 gallons for batch size? The default puts it around 6 I think.

 

[vbman29]

I keep reading about the switch at the base of the unit being labeled as Mash and Normal. On my there is no labels. What exactly is the switch controlling on this unit?

Sorry for the beginner questions, I just got the GF yesterday and I'm trying to figure it all out.

 

[sgreene820]

I just emailed the company as well. Half way through my mash the pump stopped again. Had to leave it off for 20 minutes before it started back up. I have my original boiler w/ pump as well. Might need to swap since on two yesrs my pump has never done this on my old unit.

Here's what Grainfather said:

Hi Steve,

Thank you very much for your email and sorry to hear of the issues that you are experiencing. Can you please try the following to see if this helps:

1. Fill the Grainfather with water and turn the pump on for 5 seconds and off for 5 seconds. Repeat 4-5 times.
2. Use a hose to blow water down the recirculation pipe. If there is an airlock, this should clear the pipe.
3. Unscrew the safety valve at the top of the recirculation pipe carefully and remove the ball and spring, check the spring for any debris. If the spring is clear of debris, reattach the valve without the spring and attempt to run water through the system without the spring in place, does the pump work?
4 If none of the above works please empty your Grainfather and dismantle the pump and check for any loose components as well as checking that the impeller o-ring is in place, then reassemble the pump. This simply requires undoing a few screws and will not have an effect on your warranty. I have attached an image to this email to show the dismantled pump.

It would also be helpful if you could answer these questions:
• Serial Number
• What was the wort temperature when you turned on the pump?
• How long has it been running fine for before failing (i.e. xx minutes)?
• Could you please take some photos of the pump’s rotor in different views so that we can see each side of the rotor?

I look forward to hearing from you.

Kind Regards​

They sent some pictures, but it wasn't clear what I was supposed to be looking for: a damaged O-ring? scorching? My pump has a green housing.

 

[treacheroustexan]

View attachment 563896

Here's what Grainfather said:

Hi Steve,

Thank you very much for your email and sorry to hear of the issues that you are experiencing. Can you please try the following to see if this helps:

1. Fill the Grainfather with water and turn the pump on for 5 seconds and off for 5 seconds. Repeat 4-5 times.
2. Use a hose to blow water down the recirculation pipe. If there is an airlock, this should clear the pipe.
3. Unscrew the safety valve at the top of the recirculation pipe carefully and remove the ball and spring, check the spring for any debris. If the spring is clear of debris, reattach the valve without the spring and attempt to run water through the system without the spring in place, does the pump work?
4 If none of the above works please empty your Grainfather and dismantle the pump and check for any loose components as well as checking that the impeller o-ring is in place, then reassemble the pump. This simply requires undoing a few screws and will not have an effect on your warranty. I have attached an image to this email to show the dismantled pump.

It would also be helpful if you could answer these questions:
• Serial Number
• What was the wort temperature when you turned on the pump?
• How long has it been running fine for before failing (i.e. xx minutes)?
• Could you please take some photos of the pump’s rotor in different views so that we can see each side of the rotor?

I look forward to hearing from you.

Kind Regards​

They sent some pictures, but it wasn't clear what I was supposed to be looking for: a damaged O-ring? scorching? My pump has a green housing.

They sent me the same exact email last night. I emailed a bunch of pictures this morning.

 

[treacheroustexan]

I keep reading about the switch at the base of the unit being labeled as Mash and Normal. On my there is no labels. What exactly is the switch controlling on this unit?

Sorry for the beginner questions, I just got the GF yesterday and I'm trying to figure it all out.

On the older units before the connect controller was made, you used to have to manually switch the heating element between mash and boil with the original controller. Now the connect controller does it automatically so you don't have to worry about it.

 

[vbman29]

On the older units before the connect controller was made, you used to have to manually switch the heating element between mash and boil with the original controller. Now the connect controller does it automatically so you don't have to worry about it.

So, is it now an ON/OFF switch? Does it need to be in the on position for the controller to allow it to heat? Just curious if the controller overrides the switch or if I need to leave in in the on position for delayed heating.

 

[elreplica]

So, is it now an ON/OFF switch? Does it need to be in the on position for the controller to allow it to heat? Just curious if the controller overrides the switch or if I need to leave in in the on position for delayed heating.

The switch should be set to “NORMAL” for those who have the element variation switch and have upgraded to the Connect controller. The Connect will henceforth take over the heating duties and schedules.

 

[Frilock]

So, is it now an ON/OFF switch? Does it need to be in the on position for the controller to allow it to heat? Just curious if the controller overrides the switch or if I need to leave in in the on position for delayed heating.

Yes you will need the switch in the 'On' position if its a new unit that came with a connect. Its a hard switch so the controller can not override it. If it is OFF then the controller will NOT power the element.

 

[PCL]

I'm only four batches in but I haven't had any hop matter clog the filter. And that includes a NE IPA with about 7 oz of hops in the boil/hopstand. I put the hops in a 5g paint stainer bag, which I anchor to a distilling hook. I have clogged that spring/ball thing above the valve a couple times with grain.

I have, however, had to throttle the pump every time to avoid too much wort going down the overflow pipe during the mash. Is that normal, are you guys able to reciruclate the mash with that valve fully open?

Frequently I throttle the pump to prevent flow down overflow pipe, although many have said does not matter will still get flow through the mash even if going down overflow. Occasionally I have been able to run full flow completely thru the mash. I also always use rice hulls which helps permeability of mash.

 

[sgreene820]

So has anyone with an overheated Grainfather Connect managed to remove the welded boiler plug without cutting the cord? I've been thinking about heating the connections with a soldering iron or heat gun. I'd like to have a working boiler in reserve.