Grainfather!!

[rtmorris00]

Brewed up my first batch on the GF yesterday! No problems with the pump, but still a bit noisy when the output flow is restricted. Not a constant sound; almost a clicking-like sound. The other thing I noticed is that a couple of times when the heat was on and the pump was going, I heard a click like something was turning on/off. Both the pump and the heat lights briefly went out and then back on. Any reason that this should be happening? The brewing process was awesome and cleanup was very easy. It was great being able to set the timer to start early in the am and have it almost ready for mashing when I woke up. Now, I just need to figure out how I want to manage my sparge water. Thinking about maybe getting a hotrod or another type of heatstick and re-purposing one of my kettles or cooler.

 

[specharka]

Fortunate Islands clone fermented with Hill Farmstead ale yeast. Should have used more rice hulls, the 50% wheat made for a dreadfully slow sparge. Efficiency was good though, around 79%. Starting to slowly dial in my process for the grainfather— it takes some time to make adjustments for crushing and lautering.

I’ve found that using a BIAB bag under the grain silo helps tremendously to catch any wayward flour or debris from making it into the boil. The only real issue I’m still having an issue with is my existing hop spider keeps clogging during the boil. I clean it regularly but it’s having some drainage issues, thinking I might have to whirlpool it during the hop stand / chill and transfer.

 

[sgreene820]

Hmm. That doesn't sound too good. What was the temp when it was boiling so vigorously? I wonder if the PID/Triac in the Connect unit failed and stuck on. I know that's a pain, but Iwill (GF) is really good about treating you right. Let us hear how it comes out.

I spoke to GF and will get a replacement unit. Apparently this may be a known defect in early model Connect controllers. In the meanwhile, I'll find out whether 30 minutes is enough boil for a double IPA.

 

[BrewBrains]

Last weekend I experienced my 1st stuck mash with the GF. Brewed a cream ale/ imperial cream ale partigyle with about 17 lbs of grist and I'm blaming it on the 6-row malt due to the increased protein content. Also used corn grits and flaked corn. All in the name of tradition. No rice hulls. I had to scrape the lower perforated plate repeatedly with spoon to get liquid to flow through. I think in the end it came out OK, just took me an extra hour or so. Anyone with similar experiences and any ideas about the cause?

 

[murphyslaw]

Got my GF Wednesday, ran it through a cleaning cycle and everything went really smooth. Getting ready for my first GF brew tomorrow. Aside from using a hop spider to avoid clogging the pump filter, any other tips for a first run?

I normally crush my grain at 0.030, but everyone on here seems to be around 0.040. Would my tighter crush clog this thing up?

I created a beersmith equipment profile based on the TeBrake profile, which I found on the BS forum and I think was also included in this thread somewhere. But it still tells me to use a gallon more water than the GF app. I'm leaning towards following the GF app and seeing how it goes. I suppose I can just heat up extra water just in case.

 

[murphyslaw]

Question about the delay feature. I plan to brew after taking my daughter to dance class tomorrow. If I set the heater to start at 915am, then leave with my phone--breaking my Bluetooth connection--will the controller know to start heating when I'm not there?

 

[skraeling]

So with grainfather connects committing electrical seppuku and melting themselves into the control box. I decided to try something new. Grainfather states they have solved the issues with the recepticle, but there is no way to tell if you have this updated part or not. I got bored one brewday and decided to hook up a 120mm fan to my box. I thought I felt a difference in the temp at the plug. Being the scientist that I am... I wanted actual quantifiable data... so I ordered a thermocouple from amazon... results ensued. Please pick this apart. I did this for fun but got some interesting data out of it.

apologies for the absolutely terrible editing. I lost all the original work i did when the system crashed rendering. Threw this together very quickly (as its 1am now) just to get my results out there which I found quite intriguing.

 

[bigtex52]

Not seeing your attachment

 

[skraeling]

Not seeing your attachment

Fixed I think

 

[bigtex52]

Fixed I think

Works, thanks!

 

[treacheroustexan]

I sparged my batch earlier and then my boiler stopped heating up... I have it on a dolly and reset switch wasn't tripped. Tried everything. Found out I can't unplug the boiler plug from my original controller. Plugged directly into a gfci. Thoughts? This pic is when I opened the back of the controller.

 

[skraeling]

I sparged my batch earlier and then my boiler stopped heating up... I have it on a dolly and reset switch wasn't tripped. Tried everything. Found out I can't unplug the boiler plug from my original controller. Plugged directly into a gfci. Thoughts? This pic is when I opened the back of the controller.
View attachment 558506

If you can’t unplug it. Means the control box is toast possibly the Grainfather itself. I had to use a screw driver to pry my plug out.

 

[treacheroustexan]

If you can’t unplug it. Means the control box is toast possibly the Grainfather itself. I had to use a screw driver to pry my plug out.

What was your experience like with GF support? Glad I'm not the only one.. I emailed them and Morebeer since I ordered it from them.

 

[skraeling]

What was your experience like with GF support? Glad I'm not the only one.. I emailed them and Morebeer since I ordered it from them.

I went through the shop I ordered it through. Didn’t have to deal with GF themselves.

 

[sgreene820]

I sparged my batch earlier and then my boiler stopped heating up... I have it on a dolly and reset switch wasn't tripped. Tried everything. Found out I can't unplug the boiler plug from my original controller. Plugged directly into a gfci. Thoughts? This pic is when I opened the back of the controller.
View attachment 558506

Exactly what happened to me. It's like the boiler plug is now welded into the Connect receptacle. This is a known defect. Hopefully you're still under warranty. Contact Grainfather!

 

[treacheroustexan]

Exactly what happened to me. It's like the boiler plug is now welded into the Connect receptacle. This is a known defect. Hopefully you're still under warranty. Contact Grainfather!

Morebeer already has another unit out to me! Called them to explain what happened and they made it right without hesitation.

 

[RedlegEd]

Question about the delay feature. I plan to brew after taking my daughter to dance class tomorrow. If I set the heater to start at 915am, then leave with my phone--breaking my Bluetooth connection--will the controller know to start heating when I'm not there?

Hi. Once you set the delay start timer, it doesn't matter if you have a BT connection as long as there is power to the control box. It will start at the time you set it. I use it all the time, before I go to bed, I set the time I want it to start heating my water to be ready for an early morning mash-in (I give it 45 - 60 minutes.) BTW, I usually start with the entire amount of water for the brew, then pump off the amount of mash water I need into an insulated water jug. I keep that jug heated to sparge temp by using an Anova Sous Vide heater. Hope this helps.
Ed

 

[Frilock]

I think a part of my Grainfather broke today during my second use. I'm not 100% though, i'm searching through online photos trying to see if there's a piece of rubber that goes around where the pot meats the base. I can't seem to find a picture close enough to see if that's where it broke off from.

Editing to add: Well, now its not even heating, just as I started my boil.

 

[RedlegEd]

I think a part of my Grainfather broke today during my second use. I'm not 100% though, i'm searching through online photos trying to see if there's a piece of rubber that goes around where the pot meats the base. I can't seem to find a picture close enough to see if that's where it broke off from.

Hi. Do you have a pic? Mine doesn't have any rubber there, but if you have a picture, it might help us point you in the right direction. Ed

 

[Frilock]

Hi. Do you have a pic? Mine doesn't have any rubber there, but if you have a picture, it might help us point you in the right direction. Ed

I'll try to take one, but now it seems my heating unit just died. I was just starting a boil and the temperature started dropping. I pumped out enough to be able to tip it to reset the switch on the bottom (seems like a bad place for that) the button felt really 'loose' and even after pressing it, still no heat. This is only my second ever batch with it.

 

[RedlegEd]

I'll try to take one, but now it seems my heating unit just died. I was just starting a boil and the temperature started dropping. I pumped out enough to be able to tip it to reset the switch on the bottom (seems like a bad place for that) the button felt really 'loose' and even after pressing it, still no heat. This is only my second ever batch with it.

Wow, that really sucks! Hopefully, you can transfer the wort into another pot and finish the boil. The GF has an excellent warranty, even if you bought from another retailer. I know that doesn't help you at the moment, but maybe your seller will not only make it right, but bump you with another kit to ease the pain. Please let us know how it comes out. Good luck. Ed


ETA: One thing I did to make it easier to reset the GF was to put it on one of these. You can get them at Home Depot, and it makes moving your filled GF much easier, as well as giving you the ability to reach under and reset if needed.

 

[Frilock]

Wow, that really sucks! Hopefully, you can transfer the wort into another pot and finish the boil. The GF has an excellent warranty, even if you bought from another retailer. I know that doesn't help you at the moment, but maybe your seller will not only make it right, but bump you with another kit to ease the pain. Please let us know how it comes out. Good luck. Ed


ETA: One thing I did to make it easier to reset the GF was to put it on one of these. You can get them at Home Depot, and it makes moving your filled GF much easier, as well as giving you the ability to reach under and reset if needed.

A bit of good news it seems it started working again, not sure what the heck happened. I unplugged it pushed the reset a few dozen more times, and flicked the other switch a few times. Now I have to figure out how to get the wort back into it as I already put it in another pot for boiling. Good advice on the mover thing BTW. I think I have a few of them left over from moving my parents plants around when they stored them with me.

 

[treacheroustexan]

A bit of good news it seems it started working again, not sure what the heck happened. I unplugged it pushed the reset a few dozen more times, and flicked the other switch a few times. Now I have to figure out how to get the wort back into it as I already put it in another pot for boiling. Good advice on the mover thing BTW. I think I have a few of them left over from moving my parents plants around when they stored them with me.

Just bad luck today it seems. I ended up taking my controller apart since morebeer is shipping me a new unit... The wiring & part quality is garbage!

 

[Frilock]

Just bad luck today it seems. I ended up taking my controller apart since morebeer is shipping me a new unit... The wiring & part quality is garbage!

Uhg, this brew his been cursed so far. Its a kit I got for Christmas, partial mash. Had about 5 potential brew days end up not doing it due to something else getting in the way, then had the mishap with the GF. And now I think I have myself 2nd degree burns on my foot when the end of the hot water hose on the CFC fell out of the sink and sprayed 200 degree water right on my foot.

 

[bigtex52]

My connect control unit is part of one of the initial series produced and was added on as an upgrade to a GF unit produced in early 2016. I have many brews done without it failing so far. I have heard that some of the plugs(?) are defective, but has anyone really figured out what makes some plugs defective but not others? It a case of the plugs being undersized for the load and arcing internally? SSR or Triac generating more heat internally than the Connect can dissipate? Loose fit? I read that enough heat was generated in some cases to weld the plugs together. Not borrowing trouble, but not too keen on discovering that I. too, have the problem in mid-brew one day. Is there a part(or parts) that can be replaced now to head failure off in the future? I watched skraeling's video test above and wonder that if it was a fit/arcing problem that the fan might not have made that much difference. Anyone else's thoughts?

 

[gotbeer74]

Does someone have a picture of the BIAB or screen they are using for their bottom plate? I'm on batch 34 with my GF and the last 4 batches I have had lots of grains after mash. Nothing has changed still using preset JSP malt mill. I'm currently using a splash screen to pull them out prior to boil. None of my beers have been bad but it just annoys the he'll out of me

 

[skraeling]

watched skraeling's video test above and wonder that if it was a fit/arcing problem that the fan might not have made that much difference. Anyone else's thoughts?

That was my conclusion as well. While it made a difference to temps I have zero idea of this will increase longevity or prevent any issues. Was just proof of concept if it in fact actually did lower temps there.

Thanks for watching it though. Appreciate it.

 

[RedlegEd]

Does someone have a picture of the BIAB or screen they are using for their bottom plate? I'm on batch 34 with my GF and the last 4 batches I have had lots of grains after mash. Nothing has changed still using preset JSP malt mill. I'm currently using a splash screen to pull them out prior to boil. None of my beers have been bad but it just annoys the he'll out of me

Hi. Have a look here. It's been discussed many times in this thread. Hope it helps. Ed

ETA: BTW, You don't have to insert the screen under the silicone ring (actually, it's a PITA to do so.) Just rest it on top of the lower grain screen and silicone ring. Make sure it's laying flat when you mash in, and take care not to scrape on it too hard if you stir your grain.

 

[shortyz]

i think ive brewed at least 50 beers with my grainfather so far. with 0 problems. using the old controller, no issues, shes still doing 100%

as always rice hulls are good addition, but other then that shes solid as a rock.

 

[gotbeer74]

Hi. Have a look here. It's been discussed many times in this thread. Hope it helps. Ed

ETA: BTW, You don't have to insert the screen under the silicone ring (actually, it's a PITA to do so.) Just rest it on top of the lower grain screen and silicone ring. Make sure it's laying flat when you mash in, and take care not to scrape on it too hard if you stir your grain.

Is the center of the screen secured under the overflow pipe? I tried a splatter screen but it floated once I started mashing in.

 

[RedlegEd]

Is the center of the screen secured under the overflow pipe? I tried a splatter screen but it floated once I started mashing in.

Hi. Yep. I cut the hole in the center of the splatter screen just wide enough to accomodate the threads of the overflow pipe. When I put it all together, I put the silicone band around the bottom grain screen, then lay the splatter screen on the top and insert the threads of the overflow pipe through it so the "hub" of the pipe holds it down, then screw on the lock nut. I can send a pic if it helps. Ed

 

[gotbeer74]

Hi. Yep. I cut the hole in the center of the splatter screen just wide enough to accomodate the threads of the overflow pipe. When I put it all together, I put the silicone band around the bottom grain screen, then lay the splatter screen on the top and insert the threads of the overflow pipe through it so the "hub" of the pipe holds it down, then screw on the lock nut. I can send a pic if it helps. Ed

When you have a chance that would be great.

 

[elreplica]

Quick pic of my setup....With extra screens in the bottom of mash shows how clean the tun looks when you lift it.

Hey T10... is the plastic cover on top of your sparge tube rigged up for autosparge? If so what's used to disperse the water from your sparge tank - besides the valve to control the flow...?

 

[Minky]

Brewed up my first batch on the GF yesterday! No problems with the pump, but still a bit noisy when the output flow is restricted. Not a constant sound; almost a clicking-like sound. The other thing I noticed is that a couple of times when the heat was on and the pump was going, I heard a click like something was turning on/off. Both the pump and the heat lights briefly went out and then back on. Any reason that this should be happening? The brewing process was awesome and cleanup was very easy. It was great being able to set the timer to start early in the am and have it almost ready for mashing when I woke up. Now, I just need to figure out how I want to manage my sparge water. Thinking about maybe getting a hotrod or another type of heatstick and re-purposing one of my kettles or cooler.

Looks like your questions got lost in the shuffle. I just brewed Saturday for the first time in a couple of months and noticed that my pump makes a soft clattering sort of sound. This is to be expected with a magnetically-driven impeller that is not directly connected to the motor shaft.

I'm not sure why "both the pump and the heat lights briefly went out and then back on". The click you're hearing is probably the low-power heating element turning on and off maintaining mash temp. Sounds like all is normal to me.

I'm also contemplating my options for sparge water heating. In the meantime, I'm sparging cold, which delays onset of the boil.

 

[jlinz]

My grainfather connect suffered the infamous melted plug problem, 3 weeks before my 2 year warranty was up. Grainfather sent me an entire new unit, chiller and everything as a replacement. Good thing I kept my old controller, I now have two fully functioning GF's.

Great warranty, would like to see if Robobrew users get that.

We don't.

 

[Frilock]

I'm also contemplating my options for sparge water heating. In the meantime, I'm sparging cold, which delays onset of the boil.

What I did was heat my sparge water to about 180 f in the GF first, then used the pump to put it in a pot which I then moved to the stove and put a lid on and and periodically turned on the heat to low. Was still 170ish by the time I needed it.

As far as those clicks, I get them too. Definitely something turning on and off. I know that if I have the pump on and the heater needs to turn on to full (ramping up temp or what have you) it will shut the pump off for a second or two then turn it back on. I would assume that is to prevent too much draw through the plug.


Finally about that rubber part that broke, I found it here on the amazon page picture.

Its the rubber thing running around just below the pump inlet pipe and the thermowell. It doesn't APPEAR to be all that important. Time will tell I suppose.

 

[Minky]

What I did was heat my sparge water to about 180 f in the GF first, then used the pump to put it in a pot which I then moved to the stove and put a lid on and and periodically turned on the heat to low. Was still 170ish by the time I needed it.

I'm liking that idea. I'm not near a stove where I brew, but I'm thinking I could heat my mash AND sparge water up to strike temp (usually ~164), then pump off the sparge portion into my 5 gal. Rubbermaid cooler before mashing in. Even 160ish degree sparge water would be better than cold!

 

[RedlegEd]

When you have a chance that would be great.

Hi. Here you go. 1st pic is bottom grain screen w/silicone ring installed, splatter screen, and overflow pipe.

Screen3

• RedlegEd
• Feb 19, 2018

Grain screen w/silicone ring installed, splatter screen, and overflow pipe.

2md pic is bottom grain screen and splatter screen on top.

Screen3A

• RedlegEd
• Feb 19, 2018

Bottom grain screen with splatter screen on top.

3rd pic is final assembly with overflow pipe installed on splatter screen and bottom grain screen.

Screen3B

• RedlegEd
• Feb 19, 2018

Assembly complete. Bottom grain screen w/silicone ring installed, splatter screen on top...

Hope this helps explain a little better. Ed

 

[RedlegEd]

Finally about that rubber part that broke, I found it here on the amazon page picture.

Its the rubber thing running around just below the pump inlet pipe and the thermowell. It doesn't APPEAR to be all that important. Time will tell I suppose.

Hi. That rubber ring is nothing more than trim between the kettle and base and I think used primarily to keep spills on the side of the GF from seeping into the base. Mine is over two years old and still on (but it's colored black.) Since your GF is new, I'd go back to the vendor and let them know to see if they'll replace it. Ed

 

[murphyslaw]

I'm liking that idea. I'm not near a stove where I brew, but I'm thinking I could heat my mash AND sparge water up to strike temp (usually ~164), then pump off the sparge portion into my 5 gal. Rubbermaid cooler before mashing in. Even 160ish degree sparge water would be better than cold!

I did the same thing today, with the additional step of putting a $10 bucket heater in the sparge water to get it up to 170.