Grainfather!!

[elreplica]

Hey folks, i just mashed in at 67c with the grainfather. But i used a thermometer to check the temp of the mash and it read 57c.

Have anyone else noticed such a difference?

Are you using the Connect controller because if you are, it's a lard thundering jayzus b'y, I'm pissed! And on a serious note my east coast brother - I will check...

 

[skraeling]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7904284&postcount=19

I posted it here in this thread, too. Not many people care about it, though.

frankly given the exbeeriments im not really concerned with it much anymore. Ill shoot for a number and just let it ride. im not caring about trying to build a better mousetrap anymore for a problem that frankly may not make a difference at all (especially on our level and batch sizes).

 

[pocketmon]

frankly given the exbeeriments im not really concerned with it much anymore. Ill shoot for a number and just let it ride. im not caring about trying to build a better mousetrap anymore for a problem that frankly may not make a difference at all (especially on our level and batch sizes).

If you really believe that mashing temperature really doesn't matter. Why would you 'control' the temperature? Why don't you just mash at hot water at whatever temperature?

I've tried to measure the temperature in malt basket for a few brews, but now I don't.
Here is my temporal conclusion:
1. 69c in one system is different to 69c in another system. Even in one system, the temperatures measured at different points might differ.

2.The key is "repeatable". We want to have exact the same result by using exact parameters. The is the real purpose of temperature control.

my 0.02

 

[skraeling]

If you really believe that mashing temperature really doesn't matter. Why would you 'control' the temperature? Why don't you just mash at hot water at whatever temperature?

I've tried to measure the temperature in malt basket for a few brews, but now I don't.
Here is my temporal conclusion:
1. 69c in one system is different to 69c in another system. Even in one system, the temperatures measured at different points might differ.

2.The key is "repeatable". We want to have exact the same result by using exact parameters. The is the real purpose of temperature control.

my 0.02

which is what im going for repeatability. since im now brewing indoors in a more controlled envrioment thats what im going for.

i control it now... simply because I can.

 

[chigundo]

Conical is $530. Who's getting one?

 

[flyerwire]

Hey all, great thread! I took a 4 year hiatus from brewing when i moved to California for a job (couldn't afford a place to live with enough room to brew!). I moved back east and just got my grainfather delivered today! This thread has been invaluable in getting a good base set of knowledge that i'll surely cock up the first time or two.

 

[RedlegEd]

Hey all, great thread! I took a 4 year hiatus from brewing when i moved to California for a job (couldn't afford a place to live with enough room to brew!). I moved back east and just got my grainfather delivered today! This thread has been invaluable in getting a good base set of knowledge that i'll surely cock up the first time or two.

Welcome back! I'm sure you'll love it (after you figure out a few tips and tricks to make your brew day go a little easier.) Ed

 

[canehdianman]

Just got a heck of a nice father's day gift, so I subscribed to this thread.

Woohoo!!

 

[RedlegEd]

Just got a heck of a nice father's day gift, so I subscribed to this thread.
Woohoo!!

Happy Father's Day and congratulations on your gift. I recommend you spend the time and go through the thread. There's lots of really good info here, much of which has really improved how I use and enjoy my GF. Ed

 

[canehdianman]

Happy Father's Day and congratulations on your gift. I recommend you spend the time and go through the thread. There's lots of really good info here, much of which has really improved how I use and enjoy my GF. Ed

Thanks. I've been reading this thread for over a year. Just unsubscribed a few months ago as I had decided that I didn't NEED a GF (I brew with my brothers on a 10G system right now).

But now I've got one! And brewing in winter will be a bazillion times better now.

 

[MissouriBrewer]

Just got a heck of a nice father's day gift, so I subscribed to this thread.

Woohoo!!

Congrats! Me too! Been out of homebrewing for a few years due to kids and other things. Wife said I should check the porch...Grainfather Connect waiting for me! :rockin:

 

[skraeling]

Congrats! Me too! Been out of homebrewing for a few years due to kids and other things. Wife said I should check the porch...Grainfather Connect waiting for me! :rockin:

Where you at? Im in ofallon.

 

[MissouriBrewer]

Where you at? Im in ofallon.

Cool, I'm in Sunset Hills.

 

[domdom]

still like my grainfather after about a year of brewing with it. biggest issues are:
-slow sparging, even with rice hulls. usually have to stir the mash a little during the second half of sparging.
-filter getting clogged on heavily hopped beers. got a hop spider but worried it will effect hop utilization. just need to pull the trigger at some point.

 

[BrewBrains]

I was just thinking along similar lines, as I had noticed I didn't seem to get a fuller body on my last hefeweizen than the previous batch by doing the sach rest at 154 as opposed to 149. I think the problem might be doing step mashes via the temperature mash in the GF as opposed to the infusion method? BrewinSoldier, did you do a lower temp rest 1st, like a protein or ferrulic acid rest that I did for my beer? Does anyone else find this is an issue because you're taking the mash thru the beta amylase range on the ramp up to the alpha range? I'm thinking you need to dump the grains in when the mash water is already at the sacharification rest temp in order to hit the body you want for that beer. Is anyone actually adding hotter water to do a step mash?

Hey I am bumping this question I had about step mashing via a temperature mash method with the GF as opposed to infusion mashing with other equipment as I would appreciate further input from my GF partners-in-crime regarding step mashes. Planning a 1040 ish Czech Pale Lager with 60% undermodified Weyermann Pilsner(floor malted). I would do a decoction but am concerned about the temperatures of the main mash going slowly through 140s as it is heating up. Don't want the body to come out roo thin from sitting at that temperature. Did a small decoction on a previous beer but didn't plan to remove enough mash to raise temps fully to the next step by returning a huge pot of boiling mash to the main mash. Any ideas to clarify step mash method with the GF greatly appreciated!

 

[BrewBrains]

I was just thinking along similar lines, as I had noticed I didn't seem to get a fuller body on my last hefeweizen than the previous batch by doing the sach rest at 154 as opposed to 149. I think the problem might be doing step mashes via the temperature mash in the GF as opposed to the infusion method? BrewinSoldier, did you do a lower temp rest 1st, like a protein or ferrulic acid rest that I did for my beer? Does anyone else find this is an issue because you're taking the mash thru the beta amylase range on the ramp up to the alpha range? I'm thinking you need to dump the grains in when the mash water is already at the sacharification rest temp in order to hit the body you want for that beer. Is anyone actually adding hotter water to do a step mash?

Hey I am bumping this question I had about step mashing via a temperature mash method with the GF as opposed to infusion mashing with other equipment as I would appreciate further input from my GF partners-in-crime regarding step mashes. Planning a 1040 ish Czech Pale Lager with 60% undermodified Weyermann Pilsner(floor malted). I would do a decoction but am concerned about the temperatures of the main mash going slowly through 140s as it is heating up. Don't want the body to come out roo thin from sitting at that temperature. Did a small decoction on a previous beer but didn't plan to remove enough mash to raise temps fully to the next step by returning a huge pot of boiling mash to the main mash. Any ideas to clarify step mash method with the GF greatly appreciated!

 

[RedlegEd]

still like my grainfather after about a year of brewing with it. biggest issues are:
-slow sparging, even with rice hulls. usually have to stir the mash a little during the second half of sparging.
-filter getting clogged on heavily hopped beers. got a hop spider but worried it will effect hop utilization. just need to pull the trigger at some point.

Hi. I'm thinking with a slow sparge, especially using rice hulls, that your crush might be too fine (I personally use 0.045", but wouldn't go any smaller than 0.040", and the GF website recommends 0.050" - 0.055".) Also, have you tried conditioning your malt before milling? It's very easy to do and makes a huge difference. I get my best results when I weigh out and condition my grain the day before brew day, but some folks will just do it an hour before. Here is an excellent writeup on how to do it. The only thing I do different is weigh my water before hand so I don't have to keep track of how much I use. As for the hop basket/spider, I'd say give it a shot. I don't think you'll lose that much utilization where it becomes significant to the flavor. You can always dry hop to make up for any difference. Hope this helps. Ed

 

[treacheroustexan]

I'm going to agree with the crush causing the slow sparge. I struggle during the sparge when I have my LHBS crush my grain. I brewed a kit from morebeer a few weeks ago and it was the fastest sparge I've ever had.

 

[domdom]

Hi. I'm thinking with a slow sparge, especially using rice hulls, that your crush might be too fine (I personally use 0.045", but wouldn't go any smaller than 0.040", and the GF website recommends 0.050" - 0.055".) Also, have you tried conditioning your malt before milling? It's very easy to do and makes a huge difference.

probably right on the crush. i started doing only a single crush and was getting poor utilization (around 65%) so i began double crushing. i'm thinking about maybe trying only double crushing half the bill to see if that gives me a happy medium. i really don't mind doing a gentle stir if i have to if it does get stuck.

 

[dibbz]

I have my mill @ 0.037" and have never had a stuck sparge in dozens of brews, even with a good amount of flaked wheat/oats. Slow sparges occasionally but they aren't a real issue. I do get a lot of malt bits through the screen but i scoop them out when coming up to boil. Don't let the water level get far blow the screen of the air will cause it to get stuck, also you can bang the side of the malt pipe to assist if that happens.

I bought a hop spider and only used it once as it impacted the hop utilisation, even with 200g of pellets if you whirlpool properly it doesn't block. My tip here is to go anti-clockwise so you don't spin off the rubber cap on the filter. Don't use the pump until after whirlpooling or it will be blocked.

My issues: the temp protection triggering, it triggered 3 times in 5 minutes when I was coming back up to boil after pasteurizing the chiller yesterday, it tripped seconds after i scraped down the element. This alone is making me consider a brau next time around. Perhaps a second hand brau and a brewmanicex8266.
Bluetooth controller hung on me during delayed heating, not sure what would have happened if I didn't find it when it was heating, probably boil.
Bluetooth controller hop timings for multiple hop stand additions after boil, it doesn't do anything for you after the boil.

 

[Kampenken]

... Don't let the water level get far blow the screen of the air will cause it to get stuck, also you can bang the side of the malt pipe to assist if that happens.

Uh, what are you saying here??

I bought a hop spider and only used it once as it impacted the hop utilisation, even with 200g of pellets if you whirlpool properly it doesn't block. My tip here is to go anti-clockwise so you don't spin off the rubber cap on the filter.

I've never lost the cap due to whirlpool, twice by knocking it off (in about 30 brews).

Don't use the pump until after whirlpooling or it will be blocked.

I run the recirc when I whirlpool but might just try this, good idea!

My issues: the temp protection triggering, it triggered 3 times in 5 minutes when I was coming back up to boil after pasteurizing the chiller yesterday, it tripped seconds after i scraped down the element. This alone is making me consider a brau next time around. Perhaps a second hand brau and a brewmanicex8266.

Has never (knock on wood) happened to me. Plus I'd expect that any burn on the element would be early on, not at end. And I don't sanitize my CFC until boil is over as running the pump and boil will decrease the boil strength. So no chance I've seen of this.

Bluetooth controller hung on me during delayed heating, not sure what would have happened if I didn't find it when it was heating, probably boil.
Bluetooth controller hop timings for multiple hop stand additions after boil, it doesn't do anything for you after the boil.

Happy I'm still old school then! No blue tooth for me!.

...Don't let the water level get far blow the screen of the air will cause it to get stuck, also you can bang the side of the malt pipe to assist if that happens.

Uh, what are you saying here??...

I bought a hop spider and only used it once as it impacted the hop utilisation, even with 200g of pellets if you whirlpool properly it doesn't block. My tip here is to go anti-clockwise so you don't spin off the rubber cap on the filter....

I've never lost the cap due to whirlpool, twice by knocking it off (in about 30 brews).....

Don't use the pump until after whirlpooling or it will be blocked....

I run the recirc when I whirlpool but might just try this, good idea!
...

My issues: the temp protection triggering, it triggered 3 times in 5 minutes when I was coming back up to boil after pasteurizing the chiller yesterday, it tripped seconds after i scraped down the element. This alone is making me consider a brau next time around. Perhaps a second hand brau and a brewmanicex8266.....

Has never (knock on wood) happened to me. Plus I'd expect that any burn on the element would be early on, not at end. And I don't sanitize my CFC until boil is over as running the pump and boil will decrease the boil strength. So no chance I've seen of this....

Bluetooth controller hung on me during delayed heating, not sure what would have happened if I didn't find it when it was heating, probably boil.
Bluetooth controller hop timings for multiple hop stand additions after boil, it doesn't do anything for you after the boil.....

Happy I'm still old school then! No blue tooth for me!.

Sorry for the messy quote response here- it's late!!

 

[dibbz]

... Don't let the water level get far blow the screen of the air will cause it to get stuck, also you can bang the side of the malt pipe to assist if that happens.

Uh, what are you saying here??

If the sparge water gets too far down and air pulls into the grain bed, the air can not escape easily, and can cause the sparge to get stuck. I'm pretty sure in the GF manual they say to keep water above the plate.

I have a 240v GF, so I guess it's the superior heating power, but it's usually from proteins cooking on causes the heat thing to trip.

 

[pepindavid]

I bought my Grainfather yesterday! I have a question. This may have been answered somewhere in the thread, but a search didn't yield the result I wanted.

Let's say you wanted to add dark grain (or anything else, really, like candi syrup), late in the mash, or at "vorlauf", how would you proceed? Could you simply stop the recirculation pump, lift the top plate, add what you want, stir, and start the pump again?

I can't wait to do first batch with it!

 

[jschein]

I bought my Grainfather yesterday! I have a question. This may have been answered somewhere in the thread, but a search didn't yield the result I wanted.

Let's say you wanted to add dark grain (or anything else, really, like candi syrup), late in the mash, or at "vorlauf", how would you proceed? Could you simply stop the recirculation pump, lift the top plate, add what you want, stir, and start the pump again?

I can't wait to do first batch with it!

Correct process but I would add the sugar late in the boil.

 

[cdeme123]

We just moved into a different house. While the new house offers more living space it has the same or less storage space. I have been brewing the traditional "homebrew method." You know, Igloo cooler, propane burner, two kettles, etc.. Lot's of work but the beer usually turns out good. However, I am trying to figure out where to store the kettles, cooler, fermenters, etc. The GF all-in-one could be easily stored in one of the cabinets under my bar. I would ditch the carboy and get an upright canonical fermenter that I can make some space for.

The biggest benefit I can see is the time and effort required to brew a batch of beer. I have so many home projects with the new house that need to take priority, I don't foresee any brewing being done for months. If I had a system like the GF, I could brew while painting or doing other, higher priority things.

All I need now is a few extra $$s to get this going.

Thanks for the review. Seems like my mind is made up.

 

[tygerman]

Get one, you will not regret it!

 

[arfenarf]

Hi:

Just made my second batch with the new GF Connect control box last night. The whole system is pretty slick and made me very happy until I pressed the button in the iPhone app to start my boil timer and the box went dark. Checked circuit breakers, plugged the box into other outlets in the house, no joy... so I ended up swapping the old control box back on and finishing the job (whilst muttering dark things about newfangled *$#&! grumble grumble).

And then this morning? It's happy as a clam, switched right on when I plugged it in. Has anyone else had this happen? Any suggestions?

 

[skraeling]

Hi:

Just made my second batch with the new GF Connect control box last night. The whole system is pretty slick and made me very happy until I pressed the button in the iPhone app to start my boil timer and the box went dark. Checked circuit breakers, plugged the box into other outlets in the house, no joy... so I ended up swapping the old control box back on and finishing the job (whilst muttering dark things about newfangled *$#&! grumble grumble).

And then this morning? It's happy as a clam, switched right on when I plugged it in. Has anyone else had this happen? Any suggestions?

Thats a uh new one.

 

[dyqik]

I'd guess at some kind of thermal overload protection or just a connection that got damp and dried out again overnight.

 

[flyerwire]

Got my first batch under my belt on the Grainfather and first in about 4 years. A little panicky at the end and trying to figure out the proper timing for getting the chiller ready and basically the entire cleaning process but up until that point this thing is a dream to work with as far as being compact and easy.

Got close to 85% efficiency, so my summer ale is going to be a little stronger but oh well, if that keeps up I'll have to adjust recipes.

One question... Once you are done dumping sparge water, how long do you let the basket drain before you take it off? Really hard to see how much water is in there... It can really use a sight glass... And for gods sake put a handle on it.