i have no idea, but let us know when you find out. I would like to replace my valve with one that has a longer handle.
Looks like it's 1/2 British pipe thread
i have no idea, but let us know when you find out. I would like to replace my valve with one that has a longer handle.
By the way, anyone have a reliable 5 Gallon Beersmith 2 profile for the Grainfather they can share? I've seen a few variations but they're all based on 28 Liter boil volumes (or is this intentional?)
My two most recent GF brews are ready for kegging! Ones a citrus wit and the other Gavins Mighty Helles. Not hard to tell which one had gelatin added eh? Looking forward to tasting these very soon.View attachment 401457
Hmm, alright. I'll keep the mentioned points in mind. Next beer is gonna be a big one again (Delirium Tremens clone), so I'll adjust my efficiency downward to make sure, maybe 70%.
Mind sharing your clone recipe? I love that beer!
Just curious but is anyone consistently getting over attenuating beers with their Grainfather? For the life of me ever since I stopped using my 3 vessel and only using my Grainfather, my beers are finishing way low and making my IPAs very bitter and dry with no malt sweetness to back it up. I mash at 153-154 but I'm starting to think I need to bump it up to 158 range.
I was just thinking along similar lines, as I had noticed I didn't seem to get a fuller body on my last hefeweizen than the previous batch by doing the sach rest at 154 as opposed to 149. I think the problem might be doing step mashes via the temperature mash in the GF as opposed to the infusion method? BrewinSoldier, did you do a lower temp rest 1st, like a protein or ferrulic acid rest that I did for my beer? Does anyone else find this is an issue because you're taking the mash thru the beta amylase range on the ramp up to the alpha range? I'm thinking you need to dump the grains in when the mash water is already at the sacharification rest temp in order to hit the body you want for that beer. Is anyone actually adding hotter water to do a step mash?
One problem I have on every batch with the grainfather​ is that I feel like the wort isn't circulating through the grain very well, even with 1/2lb of rice hulls. It ALWAYS puts a ton down the overflow pipe instead of through the grain where it should be going. I keep playing with my grain crush size as well opening it up hoping it will improve the flow as well as my efficiency (currently around 70%).
Have you tried conditioning the grains before running them through the mill? It adds about 20 minutes to the prebrew process but it allows the grain hulls to create their own filter media.
My Barley Crusher is set at .039" and my current batch of Festbier looks like it'll be coming in at around 85% efficiency, a few points higher than the anticipated 82%. The wort ran clear around 45 minutes in and the sparge was perfect. The overflow seemed a little quick at first, but settled down later in the mash.
https://www.brewstat.us/share/958/festbier
Why would you say that? I think it's location is solely manufacturing fitting. I tip the GF towards the pump and capture more than leaving it flat (as do many others here). No reason to leave that fine wort behind!That is because you lose 1.4 gallons to Trub and boiloff that stays in the bottom. That's where the filter cuts off and stops pumping(which is intentional and you want to leave that in the Grainfather). ..
... One problem I have on every batch with the grainfather​ is that I feel like the wort isn't circulating through the grain very well, even with 1/2lb of rice hulls. It ALWAYS puts a ton down the overflow pipe instead of through the grain where it should be going. I keep playing with my grain crush size as well opening it up hoping it will improve the flow as well as my efficiency (currently around 70%).
I want to buy the grainfather but have been waiting for them to release the updated android app that connects reliably to the bluetooth controller.
It looks like they just released the new android app on 5/30. Has anyone used it? If so, should I make the plunge?
Why would you say that? I think it's location is solely manufacturing fitting. I tip the GF towards the pump and capture more than leaving it flat (as do many others here). No reason to leave that fine wort behind!
Slow down your recirc so it doesn't go over the overflow pipe and you'll solve that issue.
Assuming brew house eff, you're fine, I wouldn't get too hung up on it, rather aim for consistency. By tipping when you transfer this figure will increase.
Why would you say that? I think it's location is solely manufacturing fitting. I tip the GF towards the pump and capture more than leaving it flat (as do many others here). No reason to leave that fine wort behind!
Because that's what the manual tells you when calculating out your water for Sparge and mash. It's the way the Grainfather is made by where they located the pump so you purposely leave behind all the Trub and junk at the bottom. So when you want 6 gallons into the fermenter, you should start with 7.4 gallons. Between boiloff and what is supposed to stay at the bottom, I always end up with 6 gallons into the fermenter without having to tip and put all that hop debris into my fermenter.
Slow down your recirc so it doesn't go over the overflow pipe and you'll solve that issue.
Assuming brew house eff, you're fine, I wouldn't get too hung up on it, rather aim for consistency. By tipping when you transfer this figure will increase.
Sure thing! I'll actually be going with the clone recipe from the forum here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=112957
Hey folks, i just mashed in at 67c with the grainfather. But i used a thermometer to check the temp of the mash and it read 57c.
Have anyone else noticed such a difference?
Hey folks, i just mashed in at 67c with the grainfather. But i used a thermometer to check the temp of the mash and it read 57c.
Have anyone else noticed such a difference?
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7904284&postcount=19
I posted it here in this thread, too. Not many people care about it, though.
frankly given the exbeeriments im not really concerned with it much anymore. Ill shoot for a number and just let it ride. im not caring about trying to build a better mousetrap anymore for a problem that frankly may not make a difference at all (especially on our level and batch sizes).
If you really believe that mashing temperature really doesn't matter. Why would you 'control' the temperature? Why don't you just mash at hot water at whatever temperature?
I've tried to measure the temperature in malt basket for a few brews, but now I don't.
Here is my temporal conclusion:
1. 69c in one system is different to 69c in another system. Even in one system, the temperatures measured at different points might differ.
2.The key is "repeatable". We want to have exact the same result by using exact parameters. The is the real purpose of temperature control.
my 0.02
Welcome back! I'm sure you'll love it (after you figure out a few tips and tricks to make your brew day go a little easier.) EdHey all, great thread! I took a 4 year hiatus from brewing when i moved to California for a job (couldn't afford a place to live with enough room to brew!). I moved back east and just got my grainfather delivered today! This thread has been invaluable in getting a good base set of knowledge that i'll surely cock up the first time or two.
Happy Father's Day and congratulations on your gift. I recommend you spend the time and go through the thread. There's lots of really good info here, much of which has really improved how I use and enjoy my GF. EdJust got a heck of a nice father's day gift, so I subscribed to this thread.
Woohoo!!
Happy Father's Day and congratulations on your gift. I recommend you spend the time and go through the thread. There's lots of really good info here, much of which has really improved how I use and enjoy my GF. Ed
Just got a heck of a nice father's day gift, so I subscribed to this thread.
Woohoo!!
Congrats! Me too! Been out of homebrewing for a few years due to kids and other things. Wife said I should check the porch...Grainfather Connect waiting for me! :rockin:
Where you at? Im in ofallon.
I was just thinking along similar lines, as I had noticed I didn't seem to get a fuller body on my last hefeweizen than the previous batch by doing the sach rest at 154 as opposed to 149. I think the problem might be doing step mashes via the temperature mash in the GF as opposed to the infusion method? BrewinSoldier, did you do a lower temp rest 1st, like a protein or ferrulic acid rest that I did for my beer? Does anyone else find this is an issue because you're taking the mash thru the beta amylase range on the ramp up to the alpha range? I'm thinking you need to dump the grains in when the mash water is already at the sacharification rest temp in order to hit the body you want for that beer. Is anyone actually adding hotter water to do a step mash?
I was just thinking along similar lines, as I had noticed I didn't seem to get a fuller body on my last hefeweizen than the previous batch by doing the sach rest at 154 as opposed to 149. I think the problem might be doing step mashes via the temperature mash in the GF as opposed to the infusion method? BrewinSoldier, did you do a lower temp rest 1st, like a protein or ferrulic acid rest that I did for my beer? Does anyone else find this is an issue because you're taking the mash thru the beta amylase range on the ramp up to the alpha range? I'm thinking you need to dump the grains in when the mash water is already at the sacharification rest temp in order to hit the body you want for that beer. Is anyone actually adding hotter water to do a step mash?
Hi. I'm thinking with a slow sparge, especially using rice hulls, that your crush might be too fine (I personally use 0.045", but wouldn't go any smaller than 0.040", and the GF website recommends 0.050" - 0.055".) Also, have you tried conditioning your malt before milling? It's very easy to do and makes a huge difference. I get my best results when I weigh out and condition my grain the day before brew day, but some folks will just do it an hour before. Here is an excellent writeup on how to do it. The only thing I do different is weigh my water before hand so I don't have to keep track of how much I use. As for the hop basket/spider, I'd say give it a shot. I don't think you'll lose that much utilization where it becomes significant to the flavor. You can always dry hop to make up for any difference. Hope this helps. Edstill like my grainfather after about a year of brewing with it. biggest issues are:
-slow sparging, even with rice hulls. usually have to stir the mash a little during the second half of sparging.
-filter getting clogged on heavily hopped beers. got a hop spider but worried it will effect hop utilization. just need to pull the trigger at some point.
probably right on the crush. i started doing only a single crush and was getting poor utilization (around 65%) so i began double crushing. i'm thinking about maybe trying only double crushing half the bill to see if that gives me a happy medium. i really don't mind doing a gentle stir if i have to if it does get stuck.Hi. I'm thinking with a slow sparge, especially using rice hulls, that your crush might be too fine (I personally use 0.045", but wouldn't go any smaller than 0.040", and the GF website recommends 0.050" - 0.055".) Also, have you tried conditioning your malt before milling? It's very easy to do and makes a huge difference.
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