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I agree a screw off cap would be a better design, but avoiding hitting it seems easy enough and preferable to hose clamps. It's easy enough to locate given pump location as reference. And as previous posts noted, why all the (aggressive) stirring?

It doesn't have to be an aggressive stir to knock the rubber/silicone cap off. I don't know about others, but mine is not very secure on the filter to begin with and will fall off even before attaching the filter to the GF housing. Maybe it is my cap that is the problem and I should order a new one for the filter?

For the most part I LOVE the GF and am glad I downsized. It has made my brew days so much EASIER and SIMPLIFIED my space in my new house. Most economical decision that I have made since I have started brewing.

Now if I could find a buyer for my gravity keggle kit (3 keggles with welded spigots, three keggle stand with two burners, and a wort plate chiller). I am holding on to it in case I decide to make it a HERMS, but with the right buyer I would sell it quickly. Plus I still have my mash Home Depot cooler and 10 gal boil pot setup should I go backwards. All of this equipment served its purpose as well, but the cost and time that I put into building those systems...
 
It doesn't have to be an aggressive stir to knock the rubber/silicone cap off. I don't know about others, but mine is not very secure on the filter to begin with and will fall off even before attaching the filter to the GF housing. Maybe it is my cap that is the problem and I should order a new one for the filter?

For the most part I LOVE the GF and am glad I downsized....
Ok that's different than my experience, you have to pull at it to get the cap to come off, so maybe it is a looser fit for you and that would really annoy me too. The filter holds on nicely as well as cap for me. I did stop taking the rubber insert out of the metal filter as I saw small tears and wasn't pleased with that issue.
I too love the GF and the whole downsizing aspect. Now to unload some equipment! :)
 
I'm getting ready to do a session SMaSH that will have a light grain bill. Due to not having the mythical "micro pipework" (will it ever be in stock ... does it really exist :) ) I'll be following the small batch procedure.

Any one run into any issues with the procedure? It seems simple enough. Efficiencies effected? Gravities off? Adjustments needed to ensure mash Ph? Any tips/info would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
I'm getting ready to do a session SMaSH that will have a light grain bill. Due to not having the mythical "micro pipework" (will it ever be in stock ... does it really exist :) ) I'll be following the small batch procedure.

Any one run into any issues with the procedure? It seems simple enough. Efficiencies effected? Gravities off? Adjustments needed to ensure mash Ph? Any tips/info would be appreciated.

Thanks

I sent a mail asking about the Micro pipework yesterday. They said it will be in stock in the US store by end of July...
 
I'm getting ready to do a session SMaSH that will have a light grain bill. Due to not having the mythical "micro pipework" (will it ever be in stock ... does it really exist :) ) I'll be following the small batch procedure.

Any one run into any issues with the procedure? It seems simple enough. Efficiencies effected? Gravities off? Adjustments needed to ensure mash Ph? Any tips/info would be appreciated.

Thanks

I have had a lot of stuck sparges when doing low grain bill brews. since i got the micro pipework, I have not had one. My suggestion would be to consider using rice hulls to avoid this.
 
Fyi check for micro pipework in about 2 months. I was able to chat with the grainfather team and they are getting more late august/September
 
Sorry guys, I'm not really sure why you need a different pipe. My brew days never have a drop down the overflow. I use a little rice hulls and just control the ball valve to adjust flow.
 
does anyone know if any big names in home brewing like denny conn, john palmer, zamil zainasheff, etc have tried the grainfather? i'm just curious if any of the pros who have been at it for a while have vetted it.
 
Sorry guys, I'm not really sure why you need a different pipe. My brew days never have a drop down the overflow. I use a little rice hulls and just control the ball valve to adjust flow.

I followed the small grain bill process, but there must have been a gap between the overflow cap and the top screen because some errant grains worked their way into the wort. Fortunately, I caught it early enough that it wasn’t too much. I just filtered them through my hop spider/nylon bag during the boil with the pump running for about 5 minutes.

I did turn down the flow to make sure no other grains went down the overflow.

Live and learn
 
I agree, I have a big gap between the overflow cap and screen. Just make sure you have the ball valve 2/3 closed to start and adjust it to get the system in balance.

I followed the small grain bill process, but there must have been a gap between the overflow cap and the top screen because some errant grains worked their way into the wort. Fortunately, I caught it early enough that it wasn’t too much. I just filtered them through my hop spider/nylon bag during the boil with the pump running for about 5 minutes.

I did turn down the flow to make sure no other grains went down the overflow.

Live and learn
 
I am wondering if an external sight glass install would work. Has anyone installed one? If so can you please post directions and pics?
 
I am wondering if an external sight glass install would work. Has anyone installed one? If so can you please post directions and pics?

I saw a guy on YouTube install one. I'm not sure which video though. Worth a shot finding that vid and shooting him a note.
 
I think this might be the one you are referring to -
 
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Going back onto the micro pipework subject, does anyone do 2.5 gallon batches without it? Can I still expect good results? I just bought a 2.5 gallon keg because another 5 gallon won't fit.
 
Going back onto the micro pipework subject, does anyone do 2.5 gallon batches without it? Can I still expect good results? I just bought a 2.5 gallon keg because another 5 gallon won't fit.
I would think that if you tried it, you would have to boil for quite a while to evaporate the water down to a level where you could start doing your hop additions. I think its possible but you may end up extending your brew day even longer. I am glad I bought mine when I did. Who knew that they would sell out so fast?!!
 
I would think that if you tried it, you would have to boil for quite a while to evaporate the water down to a level where you could start doing your hop additions. I think its possible but you may end up extending your brew day even longer. I am glad I bought mine when I did. Who knew that they would sell out so fast?!!

Hmm dang. Guess I will BIAB or extract for the meantime until their in stock!
 
Hey guys I have done a few batches on the GF and love the efficiency. I am having a bit of an issue with the counter flow chiller. It takes me 30 minute or more to cool my wort. I have slowed the flow rate so the wort has more time for temperature exchange. I have even submerged the cold water tube in an ice bath. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you very much.
 
Hey guys I have done a few batches on the GF and love the efficiency. I am having a bit of an issue with the counter flow chiller. It takes me 30 minute or more to cool my wort. I have slowed the flow rate so the wort has more time for temperature exchange. I have even submerged the cold water tube in an ice bath. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you very much.

Are you using the cf chiller correctly? You're not looking at the temperature readout on the controller are you? It should cool it pretty much instantly. Once you turn on the water it should cool it instantly, only run it back through your grainfather while you're santizing.
 
Hey guys I have done a few batches on the GF and love the efficiency. I am having a bit of an issue with the counter flow chiller. It takes me 30 minute or more to cool my wort. I have slowed the flow rate so the wort has more time for temperature exchange. I have even submerged the cold water tube in an ice bath. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you very much.

Interesting. I used to wait until the whole wort was cooled, man long day. Now just wait until I feel the output line cool and stick it in the fermenter. It only takes a a couple minutes. What source is the chiller hooked up to, is there enough flow? I run connected to a hose barely turned on. I changed out the hosing so I have to route it to prevent it from softening and kinking. Might it be restricted somewhere?
 
When I chill my wort I can almost go directly to the fermentation vessel. It's that fast getting it down to pitching temp and that's with it open full.

Only issue I have had with chilling is some hops creating a clog and slowing things down.
 
Random question - While I use the GF Counteflow Chiller, I was wodnering about making a connection to a Plate Chiller in place of it, at some stage, something with a more efficient cooling capacity. (don't ask)
Would it be easy to make a connection?
 
Hey guys I have done a few batches on the GF and love the efficiency. I am having a bit of an issue with the counter flow chiller. It takes me 30 minute or more to cool my wort. I have slowed the flow rate so the wort has more time for temperature exchange. I have even submerged the cold water tube in an ice bath. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you very much.

Both my cold tap water source and the GF ball valve are not turned all the way open and I get a nice 68 to 70 degree direct-to-fermenter flow. I never open the ball valve up full because that tends to lead to filter clogs, at least for me.
 
Random question - While I use the GF Counteflow Chiller, I was wodnering about making a connection to a Plate Chiller in place of it, at some stage, something with a more efficient cooling capacity. (don't ask)
Would it be easy to make a connection?

I think the counterflow chiller with the GF is way better than my plate chiller in my old system.
 
Random question - While I use the GF Counteflow Chiller, I was wodnering about making a connection to a Plate Chiller in place of it, at some stage, something with a more efficient cooling capacity. (don't ask)
Would it be easy to make a connection?

It was for me on an early model. I used a Blichmann therminator in place of the CFC and it set right on the top just like the CFC. You just have to figure out the connections using some hose barbs properly sized. I was told the hose and connections have changed since my purchase (June 15) so it may not be as easy now. I have brass connections and I hear they are SS now and a different hose ID for the outflow.....

I don't use the therminator any longer though and get good results with the CFC by pumping ice water through it. The therminator was an experiment and comparison to the CFC.
 
+1 to the CFC. It's worked amazing for me as well. I am blessed with damn near freezing temps coming out of the ground up here in Alaska. If I don't throttle the water flow from my garden hose it will cool it down to 40-50 degrees in one pass.
 
I opened mine up and everything looks great, except for a few small dents around the inside where the feet on the grain basket would hit. There's 4 areas, 1 for each foot, and not sure I care or not, especially since a grain coat is on the list and would cover it, but it's still technically damage to the unit.

I ran a boil test and cleaned it last night, everything works great. What's everybody's opinion? You can't really see them unless you feel around or know to look for it, but they are there. Is it even worth getting a replacement kettle?
 
I opened mine up and everything looks great, except for a few small dents around the inside where the feet on the grain basket would hit. There's 4 areas, 1 for each foot, and not sure I care or not, especially since a grain coat is on the list and would cover it, but it's still technically damage to the unit.

I ran a boil test and cleaned it last night, everything works great. What's everybody's opinion? You can't really see them unless you feel around or know to look for it, but they are there. Is it even worth getting a replacement kettle?

Personally I wouldn't care. I'm sure ill knick mine up sooner or later...But each person is different.

I bet they would replace it if you like
 
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