I see. I did wonder if more absorption for a larger grain bill had something to do with it. My first batch on the Grainfather will have a larger grain bill, and I guess I'll just have to trust the numbers on the calculator.
Grainfather!!
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I see. I did wonder if more absorption for a larger grain bill had something to do with it. My first batch on the Grainfather will have a larger grain bill, and I guess I'll just have to trust the numbers on the calculator.
And it's Finley arrived. Put it together did a 5 gallon boil test and pump. Took 50 min to reach 204 deg and a hard rolling boil.
I wanted to extend my lines a little bit on my chiller. After my first order was a failure I found this one worked. If the right size doesn't show up it's 1/2 O.D. and 1/4 I.D. White SiliconeTubing, 1/4"ID, 1/2"OD, 1/8"Wall, 10' Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWTRU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Jbs5wbD1NGRD4
seabrew8
Well-Known Member
Great idea denmfu, but the link doesn't seem to be working for me at least. However, did you check any local stores? I would be interested in this little hack myself. 
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
Did my first brew on the Grainfather yesterday everything went well I hope, the ease of it made me feel like there where things I was missing or needed to be doing. I did come up a little short on my final gallons mostly because I turned the pump off a little early but all in all m hoping it was a success we will know for sure in a month. Btw clean up was a breeze I think start to finish including clean up took about 4 hours.
RockyMountainCraftBrewing
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Glad to hear you busted your cherry and the first brewday went well.Two more brews and you will have it dialed in perfect and your mantra will be "Best money I ever spent"
RMCB
Traveling_brewer
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Thanks guys. I was planning on keeping my efficiency set at the low percent I was getting while experimenting with some stuff to raise it. One theory I have is about the amount of work above the top screen while recirculating. My 2 pale ales the wort was maybe 1/2 inch to inch above the screen and I missed gravity by 8-10 low. My milk stout the wort was right up to the overflow and I missed by 3. I'm gonna adjust the value to make sure I have a good amount above the screen on the next brew. I'm thinking not enough wort is circulating through. Make since or have I had enough beer tonight?
Finished my 2nd brew on the Grainfather, and love it. I have some scorching a the bottom, on the raised element portion. I have oxiclean and bar keepers friend. Is the BKF ok to use with the Grainfather? Never used it before, and was hoping to just let it soak and maybe run the pump to recirculate it.
I've used it on mine with good results.
Lazer Wolf Brewing
Well-Known Member
I havent used BKF in a while but doesnt it say on the back to not leave on the surface for more than a minute before rinsing?
To be specific, I use mine on a scrubby with BKF on it. Cleans it right up. I don't recirculate it.
Welcome to the club! I had excess my first brew and didn't tip the GF towards the pump, but now do. You may want to try the same approach, the GF will suck 'er dry! I'm impressed with your brew time, I will be happy to break 5hrs with a 60 min mash / 60 min boil!
Not sure on your beer consumption, but to your question... I adjust the valve now to run as full open as possible without running over. Had it right at the lip! I hope to accomplish both max amount of recirc as well as keep grain out of boiler, but the latter is really immaterial. My thoughts on efficiency, which I'm hovering around 78-80 excluding one big non GF error: start with GF water guidelines (I use the instructions, not online,but may be the same) but I've cut about .5 gallon out of sparge total, as I've ended with that much over at end. Check mash temp of grain, I found it took ~20 min to settle to my desired temp, and I set +5degree or so over to get there. Drain mash and push top plate down as grain bed compresses, last 14# bill compressed about 1/3. As mash drains out begin sparge, GF calls for .4" over plate, not much! It will take awhile to sparge, but by end of sparge you will be near a boil. Finally, if you're new to AG then check your water. My brother's is so alkaline it kills his efficiency on light color brews. If you had good efficiency on AG previously, well that seems to not apply. Hopefully something there helps!
Have you scrapped the bottom during start of boil? I haven't had much issue and the standard PBW clean cycle has been enough to keep it clean.
MeanLowerLow
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I got an email from Grainfather that the sparge water heater is back in stock (I haven't seen them in stock once since I bought my GF in early January.)
Does anyone have experience with this? Is it worth it, vs just using my old stainless stock pot on my gas range?
Thanks
Does anyone have experience with this? Is it worth it, vs just using my old stainless stock pot on my gas range?
Thanks
Nope, no experience. I use my 4g kettle now, will install a spigot (and thermostat) to "auto-sparge". When my brew space in the basement is complete (installing island in kitchen, then re-purpose the existing "island", two 6' long Ikea tables back to back, as my brew counters. I figure an electric hot plate and my kettle will work just fine as an HLT, and cheaper than their $169 sparge heater, though I can appreciate the look their product offers.
MeanLowerLow
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That sounds like a pretty darn cool brew space!
I got one also (email). I have been waiting on these to come back onto the market. For the convenience I think I am going to get one as soon as I can find a source other than the GF site. Should be hitting the West Coast suppliers soon if not already.
I'm considering either buying a GF or building an electric brewery of my own. It wouldn't be as fancy as the GF, but I think it might be cheaper. The main problem is that my 'brew room' is a converted bathroom - about 8x5 with a laundry sink, counter, and a stool in case I need to get rid of a homebrew whilst I'm brewing.
Here are my 'objections' (if you want to call them that) to the GF:
1) The wattage of the element - only 1600w.
2) The positioning of the reset switch (on the bottom of the unit so you have to tip the whole thing up while it's filled with hot liquid, to reset it?) DUMB IDEA!
3) Sealed Element - I'm an Appliance tech, so I could replace a defective one my self, but instead, I'd have to send it in to the factory and pay $200 bucks for a new "boiler" that I could have repaired myself much cheaper - considering time, shipping, and probable repair/shop costs.
4) No Sight Glass and hard-to-read markings inside the unit where it is impossible to see if the basket is in place or if the basket is up in sparging position.
I really like the idea of the automagical brewday in 6 hours or less, but these things bother me when/if I opt to spend $900 bucks!
For those who already have a GF:
A) I assume that you are satisfied with the calm boil, but do you have the wort reduction you need in the 1 hour boil, or do you have to boil for 90 min to get the proper reduction?
B) Is it possible to re-position the reset switch by drilling a hole in the plastic base so it can be accessible from the outside without tipping the unit?
C) Nothing I can do about the sealed element, but with only a 1 yr warranty on the element, I'm a bit skeptical!
D) Is it possible that there is enough room on the outside of the basket and the inside wall of the unit that a bulkhead fitting could be installed to accommodate a sight glass?
NOTE: These 'objections' are some of the things that I have seen in this thread that are bothersome to some owners in one way or another. and I've only read as far as pg 18! I'm just researching my options at the moment (I figure it will take me at least until August to save out of my S.S./Vets budget for a GF, without spending any of those savings for building an electric brewery). Please be sure that I'm not putting down the GF, IF I do invest in an auto-brew system at all, it's the only one I could afford!
Right now I use an 8 gallon Bayou Classic Turkey Boiler for a mashpot/boilpot, with BIAB, and a 5 gal Tramontina pot for sparge water but I'm not happy with the differing temps between the liquid in the mashpot and the temps in the grain (in a muslin bag) - even with almost constant stirring.
I'm assuming the GF will be about the same size as the Bayou Classic, so I can probably sell most of my excess equipment to offset part of the cost of the GF.
Hopefully someone will be able to give advice as to my concerns while I'm saving up and making up my mind ;>)
THX
Here are my 'objections' (if you want to call them that) to the GF:
1) The wattage of the element - only 1600w.
2) The positioning of the reset switch (on the bottom of the unit so you have to tip the whole thing up while it's filled with hot liquid, to reset it?) DUMB IDEA!
3) Sealed Element - I'm an Appliance tech, so I could replace a defective one my self, but instead, I'd have to send it in to the factory and pay $200 bucks for a new "boiler" that I could have repaired myself much cheaper - considering time, shipping, and probable repair/shop costs.
4) No Sight Glass and hard-to-read markings inside the unit where it is impossible to see if the basket is in place or if the basket is up in sparging position.
I really like the idea of the automagical brewday in 6 hours or less, but these things bother me when/if I opt to spend $900 bucks!
For those who already have a GF:
A) I assume that you are satisfied with the calm boil, but do you have the wort reduction you need in the 1 hour boil, or do you have to boil for 90 min to get the proper reduction?
B) Is it possible to re-position the reset switch by drilling a hole in the plastic base so it can be accessible from the outside without tipping the unit?
C) Nothing I can do about the sealed element, but with only a 1 yr warranty on the element, I'm a bit skeptical!
D) Is it possible that there is enough room on the outside of the basket and the inside wall of the unit that a bulkhead fitting could be installed to accommodate a sight glass?
NOTE: These 'objections' are some of the things that I have seen in this thread that are bothersome to some owners in one way or another. and I've only read as far as pg 18! I'm just researching my options at the moment (I figure it will take me at least until August to save out of my S.S./Vets budget for a GF, without spending any of those savings for building an electric brewery). Please be sure that I'm not putting down the GF, IF I do invest in an auto-brew system at all, it's the only one I could afford!
Right now I use an 8 gallon Bayou Classic Turkey Boiler for a mashpot/boilpot, with BIAB, and a 5 gal Tramontina pot for sparge water but I'm not happy with the differing temps between the liquid in the mashpot and the temps in the grain (in a muslin bag) - even with almost constant stirring.
I'm assuming the GF will be about the same size as the Bayou Classic, so I can probably sell most of my excess equipment to offset part of the cost of the GF.
Hopefully someone will be able to give advice as to my concerns while I'm saving up and making up my mind ;>)
THX
Last edited:
seabrew8
Well-Known Member
I'll give you my thoughts on the first 2.
1. Whats your issue with 1600w? The boil is fine but it takes time.
2. Never had to reset the element yet. I've used the unit now dozens of times from cleaning to brewing. Probably a good idea to test the element with a few liters of water before you fill it to mash volume if you want to confirm it works.
1. Whats your issue with 1600w? The boil is fine but it takes time.
2. Never had to reset the element yet. I've used the unit now dozens of times from cleaning to brewing. Probably a good idea to test the element with a few liters of water before you fill it to mash volume if you want to confirm it works.
I'll sell ya my old 10 gallon electric system with PID control and 5500 watt ULD element for $900 shipped (lower 48 only). Make it easier for ya. It has a site glass as well. PM if interested.
I'll give you my thoughts on the first 2.
1. Whats your issue with 1600w? The boil is fine but it takes time.
2. Never had to reset the element yet. I've used the unit now dozens of times from cleaning to brewing. Probably a good idea to test the element with a few liters of water before you fill it to mash volume if you want to confirm it works.
1) I'd just like it to be a bit more, but, if that's all they got and it works well, I'd be a happy camper ;>)
2) Just wondering = I've just been following some problems with the element and the reset switch in Dec of 2015 (pg 30 something), but thanx for the info - it's appreciated!
MeanLowerLow
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1) 1600W works fine - even a little better if you insulate your GF. Would I prefer more? Yes, but it doesn't require 220 and I've had no off flavors in 10+ batches
2) You should only really need to reset if you turn the heating element on without liquid in there (in which case, it's already empty!)
3) I think GF warranty is pretty good (they specifically say they'll most likely help you out of warranty, but no guaranty). I've also never heard of element problems
4) A sight glass would have been nice, I agree. But I have no problems calculating efficiency, etc. The key is to use liters
A) Use the GF calculators - they are perfect for a 1h boil. I add an extra L for a 90 min boil
B) No idea, but see above response. You shouldn't ever need to reset if you're using it properly
C) See above
D) I'd be interested if there is, but I'm not going to use my GF as the guinea pig!
I think you're going to be really happy with the GF - I don't hear of too many people who aren't. I know I sure am! Are there some limitations? Yes, but when you compare price and then take into account that every system has some kind of limitation, I think it's the best value for an all in one electric system out there. My $.02
2) You should only really need to reset if you turn the heating element on without liquid in there (in which case, it's already empty!)
3) I think GF warranty is pretty good (they specifically say they'll most likely help you out of warranty, but no guaranty). I've also never heard of element problems
4) A sight glass would have been nice, I agree. But I have no problems calculating efficiency, etc. The key is to use liters
A) Use the GF calculators - they are perfect for a 1h boil. I add an extra L for a 90 min boil
B) No idea, but see above response. You shouldn't ever need to reset if you're using it properly
C) See above
D) I'd be interested if there is, but I'm not going to use my GF as the guinea pig!
I think you're going to be really happy with the GF - I don't hear of too many people who aren't. I know I sure am! Are there some limitations? Yes, but when you compare price and then take into account that every system has some kind of limitation, I think it's the best value for an all in one electric system out there. My $.02
@ MeanLowerLow .....
"3) I think GF warranty is pretty good (they specifically say they'll most likely help you out of warranty, but no guaranty). I've also never heard of element problems"
Check with Yambor44 in the post preceeding .... on p.32 he ran into an element problem right out of the box, and along a few pages, enfox had a reset switch problem right out of the box, I haven't got to where either of them had the problem resolved .... yet! .... I'm still reading, only up to pg 40 so far :>)!
"3) I think GF warranty is pretty good (they specifically say they'll most likely help you out of warranty, but no guaranty). I've also never heard of element problems"
Check with Yambor44 in the post preceeding .... on p.32 he ran into an element problem right out of the box, and along a few pages, enfox had a reset switch problem right out of the box, I haven't got to where either of them had the problem resolved .... yet! .... I'm still reading, only up to pg 40 so far :>)!
No Thanks ... I'm planning to reduce the size of my brew equipment, not increase
I've never had a need to make any more than 5 or 5.5 gal at a time. I'll just keep saving till I get there, I've pretty much made up my mind that I won't be building an electric brewery - sounds like a rich man's sport, not an old man's sport I do have another question tho .... approximately how much sparge water do you regularly use with the GrainFather - or maybe I should ask what is the max amount of sparge water you have ever used with the GF? The reason I ask is that if it is only a gallon or two, I would sell both of my 5 gal pots as well as the 8 gal pot, and just buy a 2 or 3 gal pot for sparging. THX
As well, I wonder if the Colorado Brewing System sells those stands that they use to pull the basket up with? Lifting the 5 gal and 8 gal pots with liquid in them is getting a bit too much for this old fart. If the dimensions were right, I might be able to put that up on the counter for lifting the basket out of the GF.
No Thanks ... I'm planning to reduce the size of my brew equipment, not increase
I do have another question tho .... approximately how much sparge water do you regularly use with the GrainFather - or maybe I should ask what is the max amount of sparge water you have ever used with the GF? The reason I ask is that if it is only a gallon or two, I would sell both of my 5 gal pots as well as the 8 gal pot, and just buy a 2 or 3 gal pot for sparging. THX
As well, I wonder if the Colorado Brewing System sells those stands that they use to pull the basket up with? Lifting the 5 gal and 8 gal pots with liquid in them is getting a bit too much for this old fart. If the dimensions were right, I might be able to put that up on the counter for lifting the basket out of the GF.
Then you need to buy a GF and be done with it. I thought I'd made a mistake after I purchased it. I didn't think my boil was vigorous enough. After I made my first batch though, I'm really happy with it. That's the common thread here, everyone seems to love the ease of the brew day.
All good questions, none of us here are thin skinned to take your points as criticism of our choices!
Good thread here.1) I'm with Seabrew, its not an issue, unless you're impatient! I find preparing water additions, measuring and milling grains, measuring hops, sometimes finalizing brew recipe even, use up most of the time for water to get to mash/strike temp. By end of sparge I'm likely at ~200F so not long to wait to boil.
2) Not been an issue here, but your point is solid. I'd hate to run into an issue.
4) Totally agree! I use the flashlight on my phone to read those damn markings and have thought about adding a sight glass (well after warranty period, and besides by then we'll hear someone how has done this first, maybe you??!)
A) I wouldn't call it a calm boil, I find about .8g boil off/hr vs my 1g/hr on propane. I'm perfectly fine, just need to adjust water accordingly.
B) Let us know when you do!
C) Understood. I too have heard positive GF support, it is a consideration.
D) part 1- Yes, I hope so, I'd like to add one, but really when my process is all fully dialed in, this will be mostly bling. part 2- ha!, we've been discussing that recently here (last few pages). I haven't yet posted my experience on my recent Sunday brew, but did find some lower grain bed temps v STC read out. short story- it did stabilize out after ~20 min, but I didn't read the full grain bed- more to come.
As for $900, read back a few pages, there's an internet seller (E-Bay??) who is an authorized GF distributor and takes offers, I think folks have bought for 750-800. Make an offer and post back here what you paid!
Exactly, Check w/Yambor44! He'll let you know how it resolved.
BTW- you can read a long post like this much quicker if you select thread tools, then printable version and select the max in the viewer. Makes it much easier to read long threads.
Keep a 5 g pot. I've sparged up to ~3.5g. The GF does run a thinner mash (~1.62qt/#) so less sparge water is required, and need to consider your boil off. No idea on the CBS stands, but you won't need it if you go GF.
Exactly!
Thanks, I hope so, had to do a little bit of work down there. House is ~100yo with basement height at 7' max leading to a space, no brew pub!
It's in a corner with a (covered) sump pump below. I've re-painted the stucco'd walls white as well as all the drain pipes white, cleaned up the wires above (some removed, others re-routed and nailed into space neater) and began polishing some copper heat pipes. Painted floor as well. Need to address the steps on the walk out, paint the walkout area as well as the door, then finally install the kitchen counter when I complete my kitchen project. Good thing I like doing all this work, labor of love!Thanks, I hope so, had to do a little bit of work down there. House is ~100yo with basement height at 7' max leading to a space, no brew pub!
This makes me think of my basement. House built in the 30s with probably if I'm lucky 6.5 feet at the highest point. Have really struggled to figure out how to set up some kind of brewing space and the GF I think is the best bet for the space I have to work with. Just trying to figure out some reasonable ventilation. I do have a sink and window above it so have everything close by at least along with everything I need down there.
