Grainfather!!

[HCbrewing]

I never saw any exclusion on the NB homepage so I went right to the grainfather system, added to the cart, entered the code and paid. It wasn't until after on a separate page I saw the exclusion.

If they call asking for more money, I'll just cancel the order. I've been right on the edge and this discount pushed me to purchase it.

I got it too. Scheduled to be here tomorrow. Haven't heard anything from them yet. Seems like an incredible price.

 

[Gareth68]

My grainfather arrived as did my RO system from amazon.....no more lugging water across town from wally world.

 

[Kampenken]

Not removing the GF filter just not using the arbor fab hop filter anymore once I was instructed on throttling back the flow by closing the valve off it solved the clogging so far. It's not super fast and the GF filter gets really coated up but I don't have any issues. I just leave it and let go and do something while transferring. In the beginning I wasn't doing it right and had it wide open which clogged it up. Then I got the arbor fab hop filter not knowing otherwise and started using that which stopped the clogging but was still wide open. So for the last two brews each 5oz pellet right at the point when starting sanitizing the chiller I open Just enough so the wort doesn't flow back up and leave it until fully transferred. Hop stands and all. At the end I tilt the wort to get the last little bit. I think I've run. It this way for 2-3 times now.

Last brew was the first time I took the check valve parts out and I ran without just to see. It was too strong on the mash step or at least I need to cut the tubing back since the output is so close to the wall.

I have a 6 or 7 oz IPA on deck so I'll check back in on the weekend.

I have never used leaf hops in it.

By the end of the brew day I'm just wanting to see the CFC perform, so with these cold tap temps (47 on Sunday) I want to go full throttle and be done quick. Kinda makes me feel like top performance. Besides I'm tired and a quick chill is a nice end to the day (well ok, I still need to clean up). I'm plenty impressed with the pump performance after 1.5 oz of leaf hops and one "cleaning swipe" of the filter with my spoon cleared it up and sucked her dry (tilted the GF towards the pump filter). I still however think the use of the hop basket is in my future. Only downside I could see is less utilization (I've heard 10% loss). Just need more GF practice!

^^Really glad i confirmed that!

 

[BrunDog]

Could someone post a close-up pic of the filter (clean)?

 

[seabrew8]

Hi GFer's, i've been trying - mostly thinking - how to build a hop spider today and i figured why not put the 5 gallon nylon mesh bag over the boiler and just put hops inside that?

Pretty simple..

 

[Kampenken]

Hi GFer's, i've been trying - mostly thinking - how to build a hop spider today and i figured why not put the 5 gallon nylon mesh bag over the boiler and just put hops inside that?

Pretty simple..

Hey Brad,

If you mean a paint strainer bag, well, I'm no chemist, but I'd suspect that a paint strainer bag is likely not made of food grade nylon - so while I think its fine for cooler wort, boiling wort...eh...not so sure I'd do that. You probably won't taste it in the beer, but just can't be good. Now bag from the LHBS designed for BIAB, yeah not a bad idea at all, so long as the hops hold it down somewhat into the boil, or even could just cinch it up and drape it in, keeping it off the bottom.

 

[Kampenken]

Could someone post a close-up pic of the filter (clean)?

This?

 

[BrunDog]

Ya thanks!

 

[StrainedSky]

Is there a way to do larger grain bills in it ? Got mine last week with their jacket and hop spider but haven't got a chance to brew yet.

 

[hairymare]

i have no problem, I watched the GRAINFATHER video and turn on the cold water, run the pump till I feel cold coming from the wort hose, almost immediately, stop pump, put the wort out hose into Fermentor and fill it. Seriously ignoring the temp of the wort in the boiler. I always think, omg it's too cold. I run the chiller water out the window, btw, so as not to put it in septic tank.

Did you adjust the red valve during the chilling period? you can raise and lower the temp of the wort coming out of the chiller by opening up or closing off some on the red handle. I've seen several folks get the wort to the temp they want (coming out of the chiller) and then move the hose to fill the fermenter.

This practice will drastically cut down on your chill time since you are not trying to chill the entire 5-6 gallons of wort at one time.[/QUOTE]

 

[seabrew8]

Hey Brad,

If you mean a paint strainer bag, well, I'm no chemist, but I'd suspect that a paint strainer bag is likely not made of food grade nylon - so while I think its fine for cooler wort, boiling wort...eh...not so sure I'd do that. You probably won't taste it in the beer, but just can't be good. Now bag from the LHBS designed for BIAB, yeah not a bad idea at all, so long as the hops hold it down somewhat into the boil, or even could just cinch it up and drape it in, keeping it off the bottom.

Actually some of the DIY articles use a paint strainer bag for a hop spider. I'm thinking people use the spider because the propane would/might burn the bag if you left it over the top of the boiler. Or maybe having the bag over the boiler will create a boilover. I'm not sure really.

I'm going to try it anyhow. If it doesn't work i will just suspend the bag from one of my drum sticks, laid across the boiler. Which i done before.

 

[Kampenken]

Is there a way to do larger grain bills in it ? Got mine last week with their jacket and hop spider but haven't got a chance to brew yet.

I guess beyond the GF recommendations you could try to push it, but limiting factors would be the height of the grain basket while allowing the top recirc plate to rest on top of grains. If point is for higher ABV, you will need to make a lower volume batch, if point is for higher volume, I'd suggest maxing out grain, then potentially after sparge you could add more water to top out boiler- watch for boil overs (use fermcap even) and add in some DME to make up OG. Test it all out and report back to us!

i have no problem, I watched the GRAINFATHER video and turn on the cold water, run the pump till I feel cold coming from the wort hose, almost immediately, stop pump, put the wort out hose into Fermentor and fill it. Seriously ignoring the temp of the wort in the boiler. I always think, omg it's too cold. I run the chiller water out the window, btw, so as not to put it in septic tank.

Did you adjust the red valve during the chilling period? you can raise and lower the temp of the wort coming out of the chiller by opening up or closing off some on the red handle. I've seen several folks get the wort to the temp they want (coming out of the chiller) and then move the hose to fill the fermenter.

This practice will drastically cut down on your chill time since you are not trying to chill the entire 5-6 gallons of wort at one time.

Yup, I think we all have same approach. Limit on time is, volume, temp of chilling water (can lower w/pre-chiller approach) and amount of hop debris in boiler. Ok, also temp you wish to cool wort too as well! My intention is to optimize these to chill w/valve wide open.

As for water runoff, I've heard folks putting in washer, I may when basement brew area is complete (possibly this weekend) but will also collect for the garden / landscape.

Its been awhile since I had a septic tank, but you're avoiding for the septic tank? I'd think the water wouldn't harm, just leech out in the field?

 

[actech]

It's here !!!!! Get it cleaned today and then tomorrow brewing Yoopers pale ale while watching the 500

 

[gotbeer74]

Congrats and enjoy

 

[actech]

Made Yooper pale ale, Something went wrong!! I hit 1.058 on the mark. First ever all grain and I hit it right??? WOO HOO Now to enjoy this 21 amendment live free or die pale ale

 

[seabrew8]

Made Yooper pale ale, Something went wrong!! I hit 1.058 on the mark. First ever all grain and I hit it right??? WOO HOO Now to enjoy this 21 amendment live free or die pale ale

Funny. Yeah i usually hit my numbers pretty good also with the grainfather. Its a wonderful little unit overall. I love simplicity.

One of my favorite quotes was Einstein's: "If you can't explain it simply you don't understand it enough."

 

[HCbrewing]

Made Yooper pale ale, Something went wrong!! I hit 1.058 on the mark. First ever all grain and I hit it right??? WOO HOO Now to enjoy this 21 amendment live free or die pale ale

Had my maiden voyage on the Grainfather today as well. Everything seemed to run smooth. Clean up takes a while, but everything else is a breeze. Also, I hit 1.056 with 9.5# of grain! This is going to be a 6% Blonde. A little strong, but I'm sure it will be good.

 

[Kampenken]

Had my maiden voyage on the Grainfather today as well. Everything seemed to run smooth. Clean up takes a while, but everything else is a breeze. Also, I hit 1.056 with 9.5# of grain! This is going to be a 6% Blonde. A little strong, but I'm sure it will be good.

Congrats, yeah it's a bit time consuming cleaning, just clean other items at same time. To limit water usage I use about 2-3G of cold water in final rinse, not full as GF says. And you got it for 700, right?

Made Yooper pale ale, Something went wrong!! I hit 1.058 on the mark. First ever all grain and I hit it right??? WOO HOO Now to enjoy this 21 amendment live free or die pale ale

Congrats! Dialed in I expect this thing to be consistent. Sweet!

 

[HCbrewing]

Congrats, yeah it's a bit time consuming cleaning, just clean other items at same time. To limit water usage I use about 2-3G of cold water in final rinse, not full as GF says. And you got it for 700, right?

Yep. Seems like a steal. I did the same thing on the rinse. Used about 2 gallons and seemed to work fine. Only issue was the pump screen really seemed to clog with only 1.25 oz of hops total. I had read the issues with that but didn't think a blonde would matter. Was planning a pale ale next. May have to try and whirlpool a little.

 

[dbrulet]

I also bought mine for that 20% off deal on NB last week and had my first brew Sunday. Was a hoppy brew with 7oz of hops in the kettle. No clogs at all...ran like a champ and I hit target gravity spot on which I never do, so that's a pleasant surprise! No boil problems as I switched it over to "boil" or "normal" while sparging and it was up to 212 by the time I was taking the grain away. Also, the chiller worked great and brought it down quickly. Can't wait to use it again next weekend! I do wish I could see the volume markings while sparging as my HLT was leaking a bit so I needed to check the kettle for volume and to lift away the grain basket in order to see the boil volume was a pain, but that's nitpicking.

 

[actech]

I did Yoopers house pale and it had 3.75 hops, filter was loaded but still flowing fine. Did have to remove check valve, After that no problems Cooled 175 to 65 when running chiller.

 

[Kampenken]

I also bought mine for that 20% off deal on NB last week and had my first brew Sunday. Was a hoppy brew with 7oz of hops in the kettle. No clogs at all...ran like a champ and I hit target gravity spot on which I never do, so that's a pleasant surprise! No boil problems as I switched it over to "boil" or "normal" while sparging and it was up to 212 by the time I was taking the grain away. Also, the chiller worked great and brought it down quickly. Can't wait to use it again next weekend! I do wish I could see the volume markings while sparging as my HLT was leaking a bit so I needed to check the kettle for volume and to lift away the grain basket in order to see the boil volume was a pain, but that's nitpicking.

Another one 20% off, nice! I can see how a sight glass could've helped you there, or fixing the HLT! I also would like gallon / liter markings down to 2, instead of 3 (another nit).

 

[seabrew8]

Another one 20% off, nice! I can see how a sight glass could've helped you there, or fixing the HLT! I also would like gallon / liter markings down to 2, instead of 3 (another nit).

Thats why i use the liter markings.

 

[RockyMountainCraftBrewing]

This idea popped into my head today.I got sick and tired of both buying and using DME for my yeast starters a long time back.Since I already brewed all grain I started doing a mini-mash on the stove in a saucepan with 750ML of water and a 1/2 pound of cracked 2 row.Bring the water up to 170 and then stir in the grain and let it mash for an hour then strain it and boil it for about 10 minutes then put it in the fridge over night to cool.

By just doing a mash with the GF with say 10 pounds of 2 row/4 gallons of water and letting it drain(skip the sparge) and then using the pump to tranfer it to 1 gallon growlers.Say you get 3 gallons,that makes for a huge number of 500ML yeast starters.

Night before the brew day you simply pour 600 ML into a saucepan and bring it to a boil then pour it into a sanitized erlenmeyer flask and put it in the fridge.Take it out first thing to get up to room temp and then get it going on the stir plate and add your yeast/nutrient.

Yes it is a couple hours of work but you get rewarded with 3-3.5 gallons worth of starter "mini beer".

What can I say,I like stuff done in bulk and I got into that mindset shortly after getting into brewing.I buy grain by the 55 pound sack/sacks and I buy my hops by the pound/pounds and the same for yeast(nothing wrong with a pound of Safale US-05) so by doing a "starter batch" you would get enough to last a very long time.

Thoughts please.

RMCB

 

[HCbrewing]

This idea popped into my head today.I got sick and tired of both buying and using DME for my yeast starters a long time back.Since I already brewed all grain I started doing a mini-mash on the stove in a saucepan with 750ML of water and a 1/2 pound of cracked 2 row.Bring the water up to 170 and then stir in the grain and let it mash for an hour then strain it and boil it for about 10 minutes then put it in the fridge over night to cool.

By just doing a mash with the GF with say 10 pounds of 2 row/4 gallons of water and letting it drain(skip the sparge) and then using the pump to tranfer it to 1 gallon growlers.Say you get 3 gallons,that makes for a huge number of 500ML yeast starters.

Night before the brew day you simply pour 600 ML into a saucepan and bring it to a boil then pour it into a sanitized erlenmeyer flask and put it in the fridge.Take it out first thing to get up to room temp and then get it going on the stir plate and add your yeast/nutrient.

Yes it is a couple hours of work but you get rewarded with 3-3.5 gallons worth of starter "mini beer".

What can I say,I like stuff done in bulk and I got into that mindset shortly after getting into brewing.I buy grain by the 55 pound sack/sacks and I buy my hops by the pound/pounds and the same for yeast(nothing wrong with a pound of Safale US-05) so by doing a "starter batch" you would get enough to last a very long time.

Thoughts please.

RMCB

I could be wrong, but you may need to can that if you plan on keeping it for any length of time. Don't think unfermented wort in a growler in the fridge is a good idea for more than a couple days. Some mason jars and a pressure cooker and you should be in business though.

 

[Kampenken]

This idea popped into my head today.I got sick and tired of both buying and using DME for my yeast starters a long time back.Since I already brewed all grain I started doing a mini-mash on the stove in a saucepan with 750ML of water and a 1/2 pound of cracked 2 row.Bring the water up to 170 and then stir in the grain and let it mash for an hour then strain it and boil it for about 10 minutes then put it in the fridge over night to cool.

By just doing a mash with the GF with say 10 pounds of 2 row/4 gallons of water and letting it drain(skip the sparge) and then using the pump to tranfer it to 1 gallon growlers.Say you get 3 gallons,that makes for a huge number of 500ML yeast starters.

Night before the brew day you simply pour 600 ML into a saucepan and bring it to a boil then pour it into a sanitized erlenmeyer flask and put it in the fridge.Take it out first thing to get up to room temp and then get it going on the stir plate and add your yeast/nutrient.

Yes it is a couple hours of work but you get rewarded with 3-3.5 gallons worth of starter "mini beer".

What can I say,I like stuff done in bulk and I got into that mindset shortly after getting into brewing.I buy grain by the 55 pound sack/sacks and I buy my hops by the pound/pounds and the same for yeast(nothing wrong with a pound of Safale US-05) so by doing a "starter batch" you would get enough to last a very long time.

Thoughts please.

RMCB

This is why I harvest yeast, so much simpler and holds for months. In fridge! I too buy in bulk, just not buying yeast, unless I need a new strain. Harvest each time. The GF is great for getting "cleaner" yeast. Helps to have a conical too. I boil my mason jars in microwave for about 5 min, cool them and then capture. Only way easier are those "crazy" guys who pitch on a cake! Amazing that works without causing issues! Never done it myself.

 

[rawlus]

Whirlpooling and letting it sit for 10min or so before beginning chilling/pumping will leave most of the hop and trub materials in a central cone and you won't have as many clog issues.. Removing the safety spring when it comes time to chill also removes further restriction (I've left mine out permanently)
No issues even with massive hop loads.

 

[singybrue]

You definitely need to pressure can jars of wort to keep it longer than a week or two.
Botulism can't be killed by boiling at 212
Here's the method I usehttp://www.maltosefalcons.com/tech/starter-made-easy-pressure-cooking-your-starter-wort-ahead-time

 

[Kampenken]

You definitely need to pressure can jars of wort to keep it longer than a week or two.
Botulism can't be killed by boiling at 212
Here's the method I usehttp://www.maltosefalcons.com/tech/starter-made-easy-pressure-cooking-your-starter-wort-ahead-time

I wrote a response only to lose it with the I'm not a robot validation..

My question, while I appreciate and understand the above approach, why not keep it simple and harvest yeast slurry each time? Two downsides I've read specific to this method are can't re-use "stressed" yeast from high OG batches and storage time (though that varies widely from what I've read). Neither of these have I read empirical evidence (it may exist). From my experience, I've used 2+ mos old slurry yeast with previous OG's from 60-69 with fine results- no starter, plenty of yeast harvested. Can't say for sure results would be better with 1st gen yeast- maybe, maybe not- my guess is the latter. Certainly you need new yeast if you require a new yeast strain, but as the commercial brewers practice this method (up to 15 generations I've read), I don't see why not to employ it as well. Yes, they brew more often, but I've not run into storage issues---yet! Would like to know what limits there are on storage time.

So, any thoughts on why not the KISS method here of harvesting slurry?

 

[Yambor44]

In the past I have saved some wort from the mash in a mason jar in the fridge, usually about 1.035 - 1.040 OG. I then boil this for 15 mins, chill and use for my starter. Is this not a good process? My current 2 IPA's on tap were done this way using old WLP-001 and seem to be fine. Am I taking a gamble?