Grainfather!!

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I'm liking that idea. I'm not near a stove where I brew, but I'm thinking I could heat my mash AND sparge water up to strike temp (usually ~164), then pump off the sparge portion into my 5 gal. Rubbermaid cooler before mashing in. Even 160ish degree sparge water would be better than cold!

I did the same thing today, with the additional step of putting a $10 bucket heater in the sparge water to get it up to 170.
Been doing it this way for a while. I already have an Anova Sous Vide circulation cooker, so that's how I keep my sparge water at 170°F. I also switched out the spigot in the cooler with a bucket type spigot that I can control the flow without having to hold the button in. The other benefit is you can't over sparge because you start with the water you need for the batch, then pump off the amount to sparge. As you guys already know, it's not too easy to see the level in the pot with the grain basket on top draining. Ed
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As you guys already know, it's not too easy to see the level in the pot with the grain basket on top draining. Ed
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I could have sworn that I read this somewhere on HBT, but I can't for the life of me find it anywhere. Anyway, while sparging yesterday, I sprayed water on the outside of the GF, where you can see the volume markings. After a second, a line would appear at the wort level. Above the line was kind of steamy/condensation-y, and below..well..wasn't.

It could have been confirmation bias, or me just misinterpreting what I was seeing, but I stopped sparging when that line appeared right at 26L and when I removed the mash pipe, that's exactly what I had.
 
I could have sworn that I read this somewhere on HBT, but I can't for the life of me find it anywhere. Anyway, while sparging yesterday, I sprayed water on the outside of the GF, where you can see the volume markings. After a second, a line would appear at the wort level. Above the line was kind of steamy/condensation-y, and below..well..wasn't.

It could have been confirmation bias, or me just misinterpreting what I was seeing, but I stopped sparging when that line appeared right at 26L and when I removed the mash pipe, that's exactly what I had.
@murphyslaw Yep, you're right, I think it's has been discussed a few times on this thread. I use a Graincoat, so that method won't work for me, nor if you use Reflectix to insulate the pot. Ed
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After two brews, I'm in love. Aside from the obvious benefits--reduction of equipment, simplification of process, consistency of temperature, etc.--there are many little things that I notice throughout the day that make things easier.
  • Accurate volume measurements are a breeze compared to my old marked up yard stick;
  • The smaller mash pipe diameter (compared to my round cooler) means it fits easy in my utility sink
  • The smaller pipe means I don't have to wrestle with a trash bag to get the grain into a trash bag instead of the floor.
  • Not using a cooler means my spent grains aren't 130* when I empty it.
  • The pieces are all easy to clean
I did other things during my brew day that I normally couldn't do--like reorganizing all my brewing equipment--because I would be too preoccupied with monitoring the process. And I still had moments where I was standing there trying to think I could clean, put away, or do, but there was nothing.
 
So I contacted both Morebeer and Grainfather over the weekend when my unit broke. Morebeer was going to send me a new one, but Grainfather told me to stop contacting Morebeer and go directly through Grainfather. The reason is Morebeer isn't stocked with the latest production units, so I might get another one that is faulty. So now they said it will be a few weeks but no actual timeline.. I don't know what I'm going to do with myself for that long!
 
So I contacted both Morebeer and Grainfather over the weekend when my unit broke. Morebeer was going to send me a new one, but Grainfather told me to stop contacting Morebeer and go directly through Grainfather. The reason is Morebeer isn't stocked with the latest production units, so I might get another one that is faulty. So now they said it will be a few weeks but no actual timeline.. I don't know what I'm going to do with myself for that long!
Was your control unit the original type or one of the Connect units?
 
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I've been busy outside of the brewery so I haven't been down there, but here are some pics of the pump upgrade.
Here you can see the riptide pump plugged into a c14 converter so I can still use the grainfather control switch for the pump
Just a quick shot showing the install, the 1/2" high flow cam lock barbs from the pump, and the connections to the grainfather.
Another shot of the setup, this is 2ft of tubing on each side, it could use a little more to prevent kinks.
 
I have to get this pic issue fixed. I can't continue to have grains in my boil!!!!!! I have no issues on other posts.
 
So I contacted both Morebeer and Grainfather over the weekend when my unit broke. Morebeer was going to send me a new one, but Grainfather told me to stop contacting Morebeer and go directly through Grainfather. The reason is Morebeer isn't stocked with the latest production units, so I might get another one that is faulty. So now they said it will be a few weeks but no actual timeline.. I don't know what I'm going to do with myself for that long!


This is an excerpt from an email exchange i had with GF. They asked for the numbers on the back of my box. This is as of three days ago.

Your first warranty replacement is not a part of the new production run a these are not in stores yet, We understand your concerns, but we have found that this issue is only affecting a small number of units. If none of the parts of the unit are heating up while brewing, your control box is fine to keep using. Please do let us know if the situation changes. If it is unbearably hot to the touch I would prefer that we send you a newer version.

The problem being unless im monitoring the plug constantly... ill never know if its getting hot to the touch and I shouldnt have to constantly be checking. So I requested a new Connect.
 
This is an excerpt from an email exchange i had with GF. They asked for the numbers on the back of my box. This is as of three days ago.



The problem being unless im monitoring the plug constantly... ill never know if its getting hot to the touch and I shouldnt have to constantly be checking. So I requested a new Connect.


Sounds reasonable to me. I agree that it is unreasonable to have to constantly monitor the plug temp, although you can bet I will from now on. Let us know how it works out. The only thing I worry about is having my unit fail during a brew somewhere down the line and having someone tell me oh, sorry, she's out of warranty now.
 
Sounds reasonable to me. I agree that it is unreasonable to have to constantly monitor the plug temp, although you can bet I will from now on. Let us know how it works out. The only thing I worry about is having my unit fail during a brew somewhere down the line and having someone tell me oh, sorry, she's out of warranty now.
also why i requested. im getting close to out of warranty (i think).
 
I have a brew session coming up this weekend so you can bet I will be watching it like a hawk! :)
 
How early in the rollout was your Connect unit? I bought mine as an upgrade and got it at the end of March last year if I remember correctly.
 
Im like 80% sure my idiot fan mod works... maybe... probably... hell I dunno im not an EE.
Lol. You think like me though. (thats a scary thought!) Idiot fan mod isn't idiotic if it works! ;) I've even wondered of some sort of dielectric grease would help. I think the Chinese plugs end up arcing which generates the high heat. Surely the plugs aren't underrated.
 
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Lol. You think like me though. (thats a scary thought!) Idiot fan mod isn't idiotic if it works! ;) I've even wondered of some sort of dielectric grease would help. I think the Chinese plugs end up arcing which generates the high heat. Surely the plugs aren't underrated.

One of the earlier batches. There are NO updated ones out there yet according to my email.
 
This is an excerpt from an email exchange i had with GF. They asked for the numbers on the back of my box. This is as of three days ago.



The problem being unless im monitoring the plug constantly... ill never know if its getting hot to the touch and I shouldnt have to constantly be checking. So I requested a new Connect.
Keep us posted. I'm still awaiting more information on mine being shipped.

This was Feb 17th:
"Please be aware this may take a few weeks to be available for shipping as production on the new units has just gone underway."
 
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Honestly I tried the screen addition and all it did was screw up the brewday I tried it with... stuck mash out the ass. Not worth it for a barely quantifiable effect.
 
Honestly I tried the screen addition and all it did was screw up the brewday I tried it with... stuck mash out the ass. Not worth it for a barely quantifiable effect.
I had way to many grains in my boil. They were actually clogging the s****y pump filter that I had no flow. I'm thinking of trying a brew bag over the whole insert. Beers have been fine but flow was almost nothing. Hopefully all goes well with the kettle sour.
 
90% better with the screen. Not sure how because there was still grains under the splatter screen during cleaningView attachment 560431
Are you possibly milling your grain too fine? The only other thing I can think of is not pushing the overflow inlet all the way down onto the top screen, which would allow loose grain to go down the overflow pipe. The little bit of gunk I normally get in the bottom is a bit of grain flour that comes through, and a little bit of hop sludge that gets out of the bag and the hop basket (I use both, bag inside the basket.) I never have enough of anything to plug the filter, or even slow it down. Even when I'd throw in 2-3 oz of hop pellets straight into the boil. Ed
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I use a set JSP malt mill since batch one on the grainfather. No idea why the issue just started recently. The crush has looked the same over the 35 batches. I may just buy a SS plate the thickness of the original and machine it to size and mill smaller holes in it.
 
Hey all. I've got a bunch of spare GF parts just sitting here that I'd be willing to sell at a good price. All are new/unused except the original control box. I can provide pictures if needed/wanted, and I've provided retail links below so you can double check my prices. Please PM me if you're interested. Prices do not include shipping unless specified. Ed
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Item ($ Retail) - My Price
Original Control Box for Grainfather ($200) - $100
CFC Cold Water Connection Kit ($20?) - $5
Overflow Inlet ($16.5) - $8
Grainfather OverflowOutlet Nut ($2.5) - $1.25 (shipped)

Recirculation Pipe ($60) - $30

SPF - 300mm Silicone Tube ($12) - $3 (shipped)
SPF - Ball Valve Tap ($40) - $20
SPF - Check Valve Ball & Spring ($2.2) - $1 (shipped)

SPF - Check Valve Body ($30) - $15
SPF - Pipework O-Rings ($2) - $1 (shipped)
SPF - Pump Discharge Pipe ($25) - $12
SPF - Thermometer Probe Moulded Nut ($16) - $8
SPF - Thermometer Probe Socket ($30) - $15



Adventures in Homebrewing Prices
Grainfather prices
Austin Homebrew Supply Prices
 
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I use a set JSP malt mill since batch one on the grainfather. No idea why the issue just started recently. The crush has looked the same over the 35 batches. I may just buy a SS plate the thickness of the original and machine it to size and mill smaller holes in it.
That's exactly the same one I use. Are you conditioning your grain? Ed
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No, I saw posts about this but never tried this technique
May I recommend that you try it before you go to the trouble of machining a new bottom screen? Here's a really good link that explains how it's done. I usually use 2-3% water (by weight) the day before, and give the malt plenty of time to get right, then mill right before doughing in. You'll know it when your grain has a "leathery" feel, and the husks will pretty much stay intact after milling. Ed
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Second attempt here is not going well. The pump starts. But as soon as the overflow pipe starts, the pump dies. I guess I’m going old school on the mash today.
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Is the new and more powerful pump drawing too much current for the Connect unit? Sounds like as soon as the pump loads up, it shuts down. I wonder if it may be tripping some sort of internal over current protection.
 
Is the new and more powerful pump drawing too much current for the Connect unit? Sounds like as soon as the pump loads up, it shuts down. I wonder if it may be tripping some sort of internal over current protection.

Power was good, it ended up very simple, as usual.

The top plate had fallen down well below where I originally placed it, I couldn't see this due to the cloudiness of the water, after I realized and pushed the plate down, all was good with the pump.

Lots of grain bits though in the boil now, I'm skimming them out as I can.
 
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