grainfather boil

[dbt1980]

I got a new grainfather with the graincoat,however not happy with the boil.I can't get over a temp of 204.I'm wondering if you guys have any suggestions I'm looking at the hot rod heat stick,is that the best solution? I don't mind getting it to make it work right but on the other hand it's a bummer a system that expensive doesn't work better.
Thanks for any input.

 

[jekeane]

Are you somewhere water boils below 212? Or are you getting no boil at all?

I have heard the boil on these things is pretty tame. But not boiling would lead me to believe there is something wrong.

Are you certain you are plugging into a 20 amp gfci breaker?

 

[dbt1980]

I am at 4300ft so it does boil just very lightly, but yes I am on a dedicated circuit. I ran two circuits one for the grainfather and one for the grainfather sparge water heater.

 

[kh54s10]

I am at 4300ft so it does boil just very lightly, but yes I am on a dedicated circuit. I ran two circuits one for the grainfather and one for the grainfather sparge water heater.

I think the altitude is part of your problem. The other part is your expectation. If the wort is boiling that is really your only concern. You do not have to have a volcanic roil, just a constant boil.

 

[Kampenken]

Agree to the above. Two more questions- are you on a 20a circuit (you noted on a dedicated, but not the amperage. not sure if that could impact it, but 15a would be pushing the load)? Is the plug hot?
Boil at 4250' is 203.8F.

 

[dbt1980]

Yes it's a dedicated 20, maybe I need to be ok with it it's 204, but the temp probe is right by the coil. If I put my thermometer in the top third of the boil it reads 190, that's what bugs me?

 

[augiedoggy]

I think the altitude is part of your problem. The other part is your expectation. If the wort is boiling that is really your only concern. You do not have to have a volcanic roil, just a constant boil.

Up until recently Id agree with you but I do get way more hot break with my newer element and an extra 1000w of power. and I believe better hop utilization as well due to my hop spider and the difference in residue on my kettle... I could believe there would be a difference in the two beers made with a weak vs strong rolling boil.

 

[kh54s10]

Up until recently Id agree with you but I do get way more hot break with my newer element and an extra 1000w of power. and I believe better hop utilization as well due to my hop spider and the difference in residue on my kettle... I could believe there would be a difference in the two beers made with a weak vs strong rolling boil.

Maybe, but that has not been my experience. I have used the stove, turkey fryer burner and a Bayou Classic SP10 propane burner. Quite different boils and I have not noticed any difference that I could attribute to how strong the boil is.

 

[Kampenken]

Yes it's a dedicated 20, maybe I need to be ok with it it's 204, but the temp probe is right by the coil. If I put my thermometer in the top third of the boil it reads 190, that's what bugs me?

I never thought of that (temp at top). Just consider a boil that is bubbling up (with a roll over such as I get in my GF) a boil. Have you ever boiled, in a large kettle, and taken the temp at top? Wonder if there is any (appreciable) difference to the 190 you measured?

 

[RedlegEd]

Yes it's a dedicated 20, maybe I need to be ok with it it's 204, but the temp probe is right by the coil. If I put my thermometer in the top third of the boil it reads 190, that's what bugs me?

I never thought of that (temp at top). Just consider a boil that is bubbling up (with a roll over such as I get in my GF) a boil. Have you ever boiled, in a large kettle, and taken the temp at top? Wonder if there is any (appreciable) difference to the 190 you measured?

Here's something I do to help the boil in my GF (I already use a Graincoat with a little extra insulation.) During the boil, I lay a clean dishtowel (one that SWMBO let me have ) about 2/3s over the top of the GF. That helps keep in some of the heat at the top, yet doesn't allow any condensation to drip back into the boil. I'm not sure I buy the "cover=DMS" argument anyway, but why take a chance? Ed

 

[Kampenken]

Here's something I do to help the boil in my GF (I already use a Graincoat with a little extra insulation.) During the boil, I lay a clean dishtowel (one that SWMBO let me have ) about 2/3s over the top of the GF. That helps keep in some of the heat at the top, yet doesn't allow any condensation to drip back into the boil. I'm not sure I buy the "cover=DMS" argument anyway, but why take a chance? Ed

I totally agree, I actually think you can run with the top on, but then when I had put it on once, after I added the additional sparge water that drained out while boiling, to get it back up quicker to boil, boom! Boil over nearly occurred!

Another bit of advice. While sparging we all flip the switch to normal & boil (though the boil switch overrides the lower switch anyway), but I end up while sparging doing two more things. One, put the lid on, with a towel over top, on top of the grain basket to hold in heat in between pours to sparge. And secondly, I also use two dish towels! (shhh!) in between the basket and the boiler edge to further trap the heat. Might save a few minutes or so....