- Joined
- Nov 18, 2008
- Messages
- 2,058
- Reaction score
- 25
Just got home with the material to build my welding table.
Do you have any idea how heavy a 204 pound steel plate is ?
Do you have any idea how heavy a 204 pound steel plate is ?
Just a tad over 203 lbs?
Hate to say it, but...told you so!
trigger,
my bad I was thinking a X-former vs a inverter machine, big weight difference.
Here's something to read up on about the machine, the owners manual;
http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o246522c_mil.pdf
Prost.
Just got home with the material to build my welding table.
Do you have any idea how heavy a 204 pound steel plate is ?
SWEET!! Now the fun begin
I got you a couple pieces for your torch. A new insulator, a # 12 cup, and a 1/16" and a 1/32" gas lens W/collets. I was unable to get some filler but, you should have no problem using SS filler for now. I'll get it in the mail to you as soon as I can.
SWEET!! Now the fun begins.
Many hours to spend at the table, you have. Young Padawan.
I got you a couple pieces for your torch. A new insulator, a # 12 cup, and a 1/16" and a 1/32" gas lens W/collets. I was unable to get some filler but, you should have no problem using SS filler for now. I'll get it in the mail to you as soon as I can.
Oh yea, A "204 pound steel plate" weighs a pound, right?
GreenMonti,
Thank you! That is incredibly generous. Thanks, Ed
may I suggest friends for the next 204lb adventure...? really though, a couple homebrews later and all is well...
BTW... My friends would have probably just laughed at me sliding around in the back of the truck.
BTW... My friends would have probably just laughed at me sliding around in the back of the truck.
Would that be you face down or face up?
Remember use a grinder of better yet a flap wheel and clean to bright steel at the weld locations. Tig will pop vs stick a pig welds thru rust if you must.
Ed,
i've used those blades alot and they work great, but don't stay sharp very long. They are also pretty hard on your saw. It'll run you $0.50 - $1.00 per tooth to have it sharpened. Make sure the sharpener is comfortable sharpening super hard carbide. If they sharpen it like standard carbide saw blades they'll lessen the life of the blade. I've had a Forrest Woodworker blade ruined that way! BTW, they are meant to used on a saw running at 1800 RPM, typically circular saw runs at 5200 RPM.
Ed,
i've used those blades alot and they work great, but don't stay sharp very long. They are also pretty hard on your saw. It'll run you $0.50 - $1.00 per tooth to have it sharpened. Make sure the sharpener is comfortable sharpening super hard carbide. If they sharpen it like standard carbide saw blades they'll lessen the life of the blade.
Your having entirely too much fun with Tig Ed, next thing the wifey will tell ya to make love to Mr. Miller.
That didn't sdound right, more gay than I expected.
Looking good there bro, screw them chop saws.
Have you tried using some wax stick lube, I know being overly conservative on the blade at my end.
That a 7 1/2" blade and how much it cost plus where you got it?
I have a "beater 77 Skilsaw" for the diamond wheel for cement cuts, the 77 Mag is the my sunday saw.
I bet this is all bad on the spindle bearings plus the worm drive shock loading.
Damn, Ed.
That's great. Keep up the good work. It looks like your gonna have a better work table then I do. You also seem to be a natural a this.
Prost.
I would weld the top on. It will distort the top surface though.
Thanks GM.
I know I have a long way to go but I'm really enjoying the experience.
I'm thinking I may combine BrewBeemer's idea and your's in attaching the top. I'm thinking of cutting some 1.5" angle 1.5" long and welding it to the frame and the top (2 on each long side, 1 on the short side).
I'm thinking that should make it pretty easy to cut the angle if needed to remove the top and hopefully it won't deform the top too much.
Anything I can or should do to condition/protect the top? Should I even sand it?
Ed
Just an idea Ed, run a couple stringer beams across the underside of the table to remove the concave dish problem.
No worries use your head by welding on tabs and hooks then pound in a wedge to between the beams and tabs to make the top fully contact the beams. This unless you have those super strong "C" clamps iron workers have. Once the table is true and flat again stitch weld the beams to the tabletop, cut off the hooks and tabs and dress. Work thicker iron smart or it'll kick your azz everytime especially working 1/2" and thicker.
As mentioned above a big vice, this is your friend.
Did you add a few plates for your ground clamp to attach on?
Usless thread we need pictures, there got ya.
How do you like the Horsepower (amps) of the 250?
Later you'll have thicker larger projects requiring more amperage aka thick aluminum
that will eat the amps.
Much better than any smaller 20% duty cycle Home Depot / El Cheapo unit.
I might get ambitious and try to flatten the top at some point, but for now I think I'll just live with it. Do you think I can bend the 1/2" plate with the 1/8" wall square tubing?
I have not attached plates for grounding, for now I think I can just attach the work clamp to the top.
I used my Thunderbolt 225 to tack the top on (I didn't feel like taking the tig torch off) so the 1/4" plate is as thick as I've touched with the 250. I'm wondering just how far I can push the 250 on the 50amp breaker it is on... I had it at about 175amps when I welded the 1/4" plates and it was pretty sweet.
First attempt at welding the 1/4" plate I forgot to turn on the argon bottle and melted the tungsten. I assume you turn off the gas at the bottle when you are finished?
Kind of interesting dragging the pedal around, using both feet and torch in both hands and in awkward positions. I GOTTA get a cover for the torch hoses. What do you think of this one (it's about half the cost of the nylon ones I've seen): http://cgi.ebay.com/Soft-Leather-TI...730?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563dc6d2d2
I'll get some pictures for ya soon, I promise.
Now I gotta start thinking about the next project...
Ed
BB,Nope you'll need 2" x 4" x 1/4" wall box on edge to pull the table flat and stay flat. I'd rather overbuild than have failure.
Bad news clamping ground on table as work projects will hit it.
Thunserbolt, what's wrong with using stick with Mr. Miller?
So you used "175 amps" try that on a "el Cheapo" welder, HP aka AMPS rules.
Using the pedal, hands and feet aka multitasking, apply your best bedroom talents you'll do ok.
Argon not on, can't help ya there, been a retard myself but learned quickly regrinding the tungsten.
Pictures i'm waiting, where are they!!!!!!!
Next project make something fancy for the War Department she'll be surprised and happy. Unhappy your screwed don't get her PO'ed.
There tonight i'm an equal opportunity offender feeling cranky as one hurting Mo Fo. Prost Ed.
Enter your email address to join: