Good "lawn mower ale" recipe?

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AdamWiz

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I still haven't seen the scoresheet yet, but the results were just posted online and this beer placed 3rd out of 24 entries in the Light hybrid category. I'm pretty excited about that, considering this was the first competition I ever entered. Can't wait to see the score sheet. The results can be seen online at
www.brewscrews.aabg.org
 

AdamWiz

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Just got my score sheets in the mail yesterday. Scored a 40 overall and advanced to the best of show round:rockin:. In the light hybrid category, mine was the only cream ale that placed. First and second went to a Kolsch and a wheat beer. The Kolsch that beat me was runner up for best of show. All the judges had good things to say, the only somewhat negative comment I got was that it might have been a bit high on the bitterness level for the style. But the judge who said that also said that although the bitterness was a bit high, he liked the result and it didn't detract from his enjoyment of the beer. I have been bragging about my score to everyone I see, even people who probably don't care. Hopefully with my first competition going so well it's not all downhill from here.
 
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wittmania

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@AdamWiz, glad to hear it went so well. Beersmith agrees with the judge that this beer is a little high in IBUs for the style, but more enjoyable because of it.

I just got an old AB keg last week, so I think I'm going to make 10 gallons of this stuff for my maiden voyage with the keggle rig. I still can't believe this beer is so good AND cheap to make. Even though my LHBS is pretty pricey, I'm looking at about $45 for 10 gallons of beer, plus having some ingredients left over for next time. I also think there's some beautiful irony in using an old Busch Light keg (according to the sticker) to make a really, really good yellow fizzy beer that doesn't taste like it came out of the business end of a horse.
 
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wittmania

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@Boy: That looks like a great recipe, I'll have to try it out. Given my pipeline depletion situation, I'm attracted to the quick boil to bottle time frame for Adam's cream ale. I can start drinking it ~14 days after brewing. Some aging helps, of course, but it doesn't make a huge difference.
 

Boy

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I've already done 20 Gallons of it this year. I'm having a very hard time keeping it around. Going to brew it this week with 1lb of Vienna subbed for 1lb of munich since my LHBS was out of munich. I'll post in the recipe section how it came out and possibly change the recipe if need be.
 

dozerslobber

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Here's the recipe:
"Dairyland Cream Ale"
- 7.5 lbs. 2-row
- 8 oz. cara-pils
- 4 oz. flaked barley
- 7 oz. flaked corn

- 1/2 oz. Cluster pellets(7.8%AA) for 45 min.
- 1/4 oz. Cluster pellets(7.8%AA) for 15 min.

-WLP080 Cream Ale Blend (or you can use a standard like WLP001)

-mash to hit 152 (60 min. sach rest)
-mashout to 170
-primary ferment at 66-69 F for about 10-14 days(no secondary needed, I have tried with and without a secondary and not much difference) then bottle or keg and carb to 2.5-3 volumes.

The OG comes out to about 1.043, FG 1.010, IBU about 23-24, SRM 3
Your recipe caught my eye, and I'm working on an extract version but I have some questions:
1) Did you change to WLP001 or are you still using WLP080?
2) Are you still using Cluster hops at 45 and 15 minutes?
3) If I steep the flaked corn, barley and cara-pils will I get what need? (I'm looking at 5.5lbs Extra Light DME for 5 gallons. These numbers come out right for OG and Color.)

Thanks in advance.
 

AdamWiz

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Your recipe caught my eye, and I'm working on an extract version but I have some questions:
1) Did you change to WLP001 or are you still using WLP080?
2) Are you still using Cluster hops at 45 and 15 minutes?
3) If I steep the flaked corn, barley and cara-pils will I get what need? (I'm looking at 5.5lbs Extra Light DME for 5 gallons. These numbers come out right for OG and Color.)

Thanks in advance.
1) my last couple batches I have used WLP001, but the version that just placed 3rd in the competition was an older version that used WLP080, so now I'm considering going back to that. When I first started using 001 I liked the fresh beer a little more, but after it matures I think the 080 is cleaner tasting. I will probably continue to use both depending on what I have on hand and what mood I'm in - both yeasts turn out well.

2)the hop schedule remains the same for now, but on my next batch I may try it with the 15 minuite hop addition cut down to 10 or 5 minuites. I also think I am going to cut down on the corn slightly to about 4-5 oz.

3) you will need to have some base malt with the corn and carapils to get conversion(corn has no enzymes of its own). I actually have a pretty easy partial mash version for this, I'll find it and post it on here for you when I do. Have you ever done partial mash? It's really not any more complicated than steeping grains and it can open up a lot more different grains for you to use. The only difference is you steep for a bit longer and have to be a bit more accurate with your water temperature.
 

dozerslobber

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AdamWiz said:
1) my last couple batches I have used WLP001, but the version that just placed 3rd in the competition was an older version that used WLP080, so now I'm considering going back to that. When I first started using 001 I liked the fresh beer a little more, but after it matures I think the 080 is cleaner tasting. I will probably continue to use both depending on what I have on hand and what mood I'm in - both yeasts turn out well.

2)the hop schedule remains the same for now, but on my next batch I may try it with the 15 minuite hop addition cut down to 10 or 5 minuites. I also think I am going to cut down on the corn slightly to about 4-5 oz.

3) you will need to have some base malt with the corn and carapils to get conversion(corn has no enzymes of its own). I actually have a pretty easy partial mash version for this, I'll find it and post it on here for you when I do. Have you ever done partial mash? It's really not any more complicated than steeping grains and it can open up a lot more different grains for you to use. The only difference is you steep for a bit longer and have to be a bit more accurate with your water temperature.
Since I'm starting from scratch, I'll probably use the 080.

Post up the partial mash recipe, i've been considering that direction for the near future.
 

AdamWiz

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Dairyland cream ale - partial mash version
5 gallon batch, 3.5 gallon boil

- 3 lb., 6 oz. pilsen light DME (or you can substitute with extra light DME)
- 2 lb. 2-row brewer's malt
- 8 oz. carapils
- 4 oz. flaked barley
- 4 oz. flaked corn

- 0.625 oz. cluster pellets for 45 minuites(7.9% AA - adjust as needed if your alpha acid % is different)
- 0.375 oz. cluster pellets for 10 minuites

- WLP080 cream ale blend

- heat about 1.25 gallons(5 quarts) water to about 162 degrees, then in a large mesh bag, steep the 2-row, flaked barley, carapils, and flaked corn for 30-45 minuites (you want your temp. to be about 152 degrees after adding the grains - add a bit of cold or hot water to adjust if needed)cover the pot to maintain temperature. lift the grain bag out of the water and slowly pour about 2.25 gallons of near-boiling water over it to bring your total boil volume to 3.5 gallons and temp. to about 170 degrees(if you are unable to boil that much water separately, you can add the 2.25 gallons directly to your boil kettle after steeping and bring it all to a boil) Then add your DME while you are bringing it up to boiling and go as usual. Boil for a full 60 minuites, but the first hop addition won't be until after 15 minuites of boiling. ferment at 68-70 degrees for 10-14 days, no secondary needed. Starting gravity is about 1.042, final gravity is about 1.010-1.011.
If you have any questions about the recipe or partial mash in general, let me know. I got a lot of help from others on here when I started out, and now that I'm able to help others I am glad to do so. There are a lot of different ways it can be done depending on your equipment. You should check out deathbrewer's stovetop partial mashing thread, it was very helpful to me when I was starting out.
 

Vance71975

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This is my idea of a lawnmower ale:

Oat Mild


Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 8.00 gal
Estimated OG: 1.034 SG
Estimated Color: 15.6 SRM
Estimated IBU: 10.0 IBU
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
5.00 lb Oats, Malted (1.0 SRM) Grain 80.00 %
1.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L Grain 16.00 %
0.25 lb Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 4.00 %
0.50 oz Fuggles [4.50 %] (60 min) Hops 10.0 IBU
1 Pkgs Essex Ale Yeast (White Labs #WLP022) Yeast-Ale


Mash Schedule: Double Infusion, Full Body
Total Grain Weight: 6.25 lb
----------------------------
Double Infusion, Full Body
Step Time Name Description Step Temp
30 min Protein Rest Add 5.63 qt of water at 132.1 F 122.0 F
30 min Saccrification Add 5.00 qt of water at 206.7 F 158.0 F
10 min Mash Out Add 3.75 qt of water at 199.4 F 168.0 F
 

dozerslobber

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AdamWiz said:
Dairyland cream ale - partial mash version
5 gallon batch, 3.5 gallon boil

- 3 lb., 6 oz. pilsen light DME (or you can substitute with extra light DME)
- 2 lb. 2-row brewer's malt
- 8 oz. carapils
- 4 oz. flaked barley
- 4 oz. flaked corn

- 0.625 oz. cluster pellets for 45 minuites(7.9% AA - adjust as needed if your alpha acid % is different)
- 0.375 oz. cluster pellets for 10 minuites

- WLP080 cream ale blend

- heat about 1.25 gallons(5 quarts) water to about 162 degrees, then in a large mesh bag, steep the 2-row, flaked barley, carapils, and flaked corn for 30-45 minuites (you want your temp. to be about 152 degrees after adding the grains - add a bit of cold or hot water to adjust if needed)cover the pot to maintain temperature. lift the grain bag out of the water and slowly pour about 2.25 gallons of near-boiling water over it to bring your total boil volume to 3.5 gallons and temp. to about 170 degrees(if you are unable to boil that much water separately, you can add the 2.25 gallons directly to your boil kettle after steeping and bring it all to a boil) Then add your DME while you are bringing it up to boiling and go as usual. Boil for a full 60 minuites, but the first hop addition won't be until after 15 minuites of boiling. ferment at 68-70 degrees for 10-14 days, no secondary needed. Starting gravity is about 1.042, final gravity is about 1.010-1.011.
If you have any questions about the recipe or partial mash in general, let me know. I got a lot of help from others on here when I started out, and now that I'm able to help others I am glad to do so. There are a lot of different ways it can be done depending on your equipment. You should check out deathbrewer's stovetop partial mashing thread, it was very helpful to me when I was starting out.
Well played sir. I could not have asked for more. And I will be further investigating deathbrewer's thread. Thanks.
 

balunist

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Adam,
I'm new to full mash. Should I be adding flaked barley/corn to the mash along with grains? Also, what's the volume of water you mash with? What's the additional volume used for sparge.
Thanks in advance!

Here's the recipe:
"Dairyland Cream Ale"
- 7.5 lbs. 2-row
- 8 oz. cara-pils
- 4 oz. flaked barley
- 7 oz. flaked corn

- 1/2 oz. Cluster pellets(7.8%AA) for 45 min.
- 1/4 oz. Cluster pellets(7.8%AA) for 15 min.

-WLP080 Cream Ale Blend (or you can use a standard like WLP001)

-mash to hit 152 (60 min. sach rest)
-mashout to 170
-primary ferment at 66-69 F for about 10-14 days(no secondary needed, I have tried with and without a secondary and not much difference) then bottle or keg and carb to 2.5-3 volumes.

The OG comes out to about 1.043, FG 1.010, IBU about 23-24, SRM 3
 
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wittmania

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Adam,
I'm new to full mash. Should I be adding flaked barley/corn to the mash along with grains? Also, what's the volume of water you mash with? What's the additional volume used for sparge.
Thanks in advance!
Yes, the flaked grains go in with the rest of the grist. Just don't mill them... they're all ready to go, straight into the tun (made that mistake exactly once).

As for the sparge water, it will be different on every system. Here's the BeerSmith print out for my system:

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 6.28 gal
Post Boil Volume: 5.72 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.00 gal
Bottling Volume: 5.00 gal
Estimated OG: 1.048 SG
Estimated Color: 3.3 SRM
Estimated IBU: 21.1 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 82.5 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
7 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 84.9 %
8.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 2 5.7 %
8.0 oz Corn, Flaked (1.3 SRM) Grain 3 5.7 %
5.3 oz Barley, Flaked (1.7 SRM) Grain 4 3.7 %
0.50 oz Cluster [7.60 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 5 14.1 IBUs
1.00 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 15.0 mins) Fining 6 -
0.50 oz Cluster [7.60 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 7 7.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg Safale American (DCL/Fermentis #US-05) Yeast 8 -


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 8 lbs 13.3 oz
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Mash In Add 15.04 qt of water at 158.3 F 150.0 F 75 min

Sparge: Batch sparge with 2 steps (0.44gal, 3.14gal) of 168.0 F water
 

natefrog255

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Here's the recipe:
"Dairyland Cream Ale"
- 7.5 lbs. 2-row
- 8 oz. cara-pils
- 4 oz. flaked barley
- 7 oz. flaked corn

- 1/2 oz. Cluster pellets(7.8%AA) for 45 min.
- 1/4 oz. Cluster pellets(7.8%AA) for 15 min.

-WLP080 Cream Ale Blend (or you can use a standard like WLP001)

-mash to hit 152 (60 min. sach rest)
-mashout to 170
-primary ferment at 66-69 F for about 10-14 days(no secondary needed, I have tried with and without a secondary and not much difference) then bottle or keg and carb to 2.5-3 volumes.

The OG comes out to about 1.043, FG 1.010, IBU about 23-24, SRM 3
Might not be super important, but do you feel it will make a big difference if I use lets say 8 oz. of flaked corn vs. 4 oz. flaked corn/4 oz. flaked barley? Difference in flavor? Body? Original gravity? I guess it would likely be more corn instead of a balance maybe.
 

Miraculix

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Might not be super important, but do you feel it will make a big difference if I use lets say 8 oz. of flaked corn vs. 4 oz. flaked corn/4 oz. flaked barley? Difference in flavor? Body? Original gravity? I guess it would likely be more corn instead of a balance maybe.

... this thread is over 6 years old :)
 

natefrog255

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... this thread is over 6 years old :)
Haha, I hear you. I did a search to pull some good lawnmower beer recipes and this thread intrigued me so thought I'd take a shot at replying. Think I'm going to try that one but just use corn, no flaked barley.

I also could not find Yooper's recipes. I wonder if that is a feature they have since took away since this thread is older...
 

Miraculix

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Haha, I hear you. I did a search to pull some good lawnmower beer recipes and this thread intrigued me so thought I'd take a shot at replying. Think I'm going to try that one but just use corn, no flaked barley.

I also could not find Yooper's recipes. I wonder if that is a feature they have since took away since this thread is older...
I just created such a recipe by accident, and it is dead simple.

Use a really pale base malt, pilsener or if you can get use Heidelberg. Any two row pale should do fine too.

Mash at 64 Celsius for an hour, try to hit 1.04 to 1.045 og.

Then boil for an hour without any hops and add 1.5g centennial per liter beer at flame out. Don't chIll it, let it cool down over night by itself.

Next day remove the hops, or let them in, however you like it, and pitch mangrove jack new world strong ale. I am pretty sure that us05 would also do very well.

You know the rest of the story :)

You can dry hop but I really recommend trying it without first.

This beer is really nice. Give it a good pilsener like carbonation and you will love it. It is a really balanced beer in between hoppy and maltiness, I love it.
 
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