Frigidaire Model FRC445GB Mini-Fridge Kegerator Conversion

[bigtex52]

Is there anything up against the sidewalls of the fridge on the outside? If so, air can't circulate and nowhere for the exhausted heat to go. The sides are like radiators.

Does it run constantly trying to cool it down further?

 

[Hello]

I know this is old but does anyone have a more recent model that is just like the FRC445GB? The FRC445GB is next to impossible to come by now, it seems.

 

[satownsend]

The updated version is the LFPH44M4LM.

 

[DoubleEh]

And the model they sell at Best Buy is BFPH44M4LM. It apparently has a less intrusive door design than the Lowe's model. I was able to get Best Buy to match the Lowe's price when I bought mine.

 

[satownsend]

Man, I should have thought of price matching. Picked up the Lowe's model today. Oh well.

 

[W0rthog]

I have read the saga and am grateful for all contributors. I would like to know the best approach for keeping a tower lines cold, but not frozen. I've read the copper pipe design, the wide hole approach and the tube with a fan to the tower solution.

Any lessons learned from any of these solutions? Any advice? I'm trying to keep it simple, like me. I'm stalled out on this project due to analysis paralysis.

Cheers

 

[elganso]

I'm stalled out on this project due to analysis paralysis.

The sweet beer flowing from your taps will be worth it.

I took the approach of two copper tubes, no fan and it seems to work fine. The key bit for me was to get the copper as deep into the kegerator as you can go without disturbing the regulator, kegs, etc. My tubes are probably in their 10-12 inches inside and then run up the length of the tower; beer lines are, obviously, inside the copper. Then, I insulated the tower with gusto. Had some photos in this thread back in the day, but can't find them at the moment.

With a fan, you need air circulation, so need a larger hole. In the end, I couldn't be bothered with the extra electrical work.

 

[63belair]

I have read the saga and am grateful for all contributors. I would like to know the best approach for keeping a tower lines cold, but not frozen. I've read the copper pipe design, the wide hole approach and the tube with a fan to the tower solution.

Any lessons learned from any of these solutions? Any advice? I'm trying to keep it simple, like me. I'm stalled out on this project due to analysis paralysis.

Cheers

If you really want to keep it simple and youre paralyzed with analysis, save yourself some frustration and cash and ditch the tower. Build a through the door version (like I did). Super easy, super effective, and no need to stress about keeping the lines in the tower cold.

 

[musicawal]

63belair is right about ease of setup with the through the door route. If you're set on a tower though I can give you my 2 cents about my tower cooling method which has been a fan with tube into the tower. I've used this method for a few years and had no issue. The tower doesn't sweat as its inside but the taps are cold to the touch and I have no first pour foam issues. That is also due to having line length, serving pressures, and clean taps/lines all taken care of too. I went the easy route though for my tower cooler and just ordered it off ebay. There is a seller who always has these on there. Just search tower cooler and it'll pop up. Cost a few extra bucks than building one but looks professional and works well. Again just my 2 cents on the fan method.

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[W0rthog]

I'm almost done with only 1 step remaining. I need to drill a hole for the CO2 line. I'd like to drill it on the top of the 'hump' in the fridge.
One person said they hit a line, so I'm hesitant to do so.
Does anyone know if there are lines running along the 'hump' or step inside the fridge?

Thanks in advance

 

[IffyG]

I'm almost done with only 1 step remaining. I need to drill a hole for the CO2 line. I'd like to drill it on the top of the 'hump' in the fridge.
One person said they hit a line, so I'm hesitant to do so.
Does anyone know if there are lines running along the 'hump' or step inside the fridge?

Thanks in advance

I pulled the drain plug and filed it a little bit to slip the CO2 line through the hump. Seemed to work well enough for me.

 

[mforsman]

Never Mind. I found it after a long session of reading about 20 threads on the topic.

Thanks for bringing this to the last few pages of the thread. I had one of these fridges for a kegorator and just picked up a second to use as a fermentation fridge. This diagram helped me do it easily!

Just a heads up, one of the local shops (aj madison) said this fridge was discontinued but it was still in stock at many best buy's. The price has also increased since the first time i bought one. Hopefully they keep this model around since it's so easy to convert.

 

[SHHHHHHH]

I had to create an account to give back to this thread. So this is my first post because i was so happy with:

2 five gallon kegs, 1 three gallon keg, 1 5lb CO2 tank inside. 1 copper pipe around 3 beer lines, that runs inside fridge and into tower. Triple perlick creamer faucets. Have had all kegs with beer in them for about a month now. Stays cold. The first pour is always a bit foamy, but nothing serious.

 

[bigken462]

I'll be starting a mod on this model of fridge next Tuesday when my tower gets here. I'm still trying to decide on a few things.

1. Where is the most ideal and functional place on top to mount the tower? I've seen them in the back, in the middle, in the front etc. I'm leaning toward the back third.

2. I've seen several methods of cooling the tower. Is a cooling fan and hose coil preferred, or running the lines through some copper tubing?

3. I ordered a 3" double faucet from keg connections. I still need to buy the hole cutter. Am I to assume if I use a cooling fan that I will also need a 3" hole

4. I plan on using some 1/2 inch plywood between the foam and plastic top to reinforce the base. What is the best method of attaching the tower? Secure to the wood, or bolting all the way through?

5. Can anyone recommend some some specific types of adhesive and spray foam that I will need to pick up?

6. Suggestions for any other tools, tricks, supplies or ideas to make this project easier.

Thanks in advance,

Kenny

 

[Brewer_Chad]

I got a firestone, and a ball lock keg inside mine. I had to move the light and thermostat though. Did you guys have any problem adjusting the temp after moving the thermostat?


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[DesignatedDrinker]

Dont forget to seal the drain port and freezer door screw holes with some caulk or silicone so you dont get condensation build up!!!

 

[Brewer_Chad]

After putting my new keg in and moving my thermostat it is now holding at 41 degrees, on the very lowest, way before 1. It was at 45 on 1 before the conversion. Is this normal?


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[zacster]

I left my fridge intact, taking out all the easily remove shelves and things, but leaving the door as is, and I can ferment 5.5 gallon batches of lager using 2 3gallon Better Bottles, which are square, and my external STC1000. I only have one keg so I don't know if I could fit 2 with the door that way. I still use a picnic tap on my keg, although I've wanted to try something different, but was also thinking of a movable mounted tap that stayed inside.

Pics are HERE

 

[DesignatedDrinker]

After putting my new keg in and moving my thermostat it is now holding at 41 degrees, on the very lowest, way before 1. It was at 45 on 1 before the conversion. Is this normal?


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Not to insult your intelligence but usually the higher number is cooler and the lower number is hotter. At least on my frigidaire minifridge. Could be different for your setup.

 

[Brewer_Chad]

Not to insult your intelligence but usually the higher number is cooler and the lower number is hotter. At least on my frigidaire minifridge. Could be different for your setup.

Not insulting at all. I have had this fridge for a few years now, and on 5 it froze my beer lines with one keg in it. On 1 it held at 40-45 degrees depending on the heat in my garage. I'm thinking of getting this STC1000 controller off eBay for $15 but I'm scared of wiring this thing not something in familiar with.


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[DesignatedDrinker]

Not insulting at all. I have had this fridge for a few years now, and on 5 it froze my beer lines with one keg in it. On 1 it held at 40-45 degrees depending on the heat in my garage. I'm thinking of getting this STC1000 controller off eBay for $15 but I'm scared of wiring this thing not something in familiar with.


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Its not scary at all. Theres tons of tutorials online showing how to build those. I made one before, didnt take much effort or time at all. But your fridge gets really cold! Mine on the lowest setting holds around 29-32. Beer wont freeze till around 28.

 

[DoubleEh]

After putting my new keg in and moving my thermostat it is now holding at 41 degrees, on the very lowest, way before 1. It was at 45 on 1 before the conversion. Is this normal?


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It seems logical that moving the thermostat to a relatively colder spot in the fridge and blocking air circulation with 2 kegs would cause parts of the fridge to be warmer on the same thermostat setting.


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[zacster]

Yea, it is pretty easy to wire it up. The harder part is finding a box and then cutting the holes believe it or not. It works like a charm once you have it up and running. I set my fridge to 6 and it stays within .3 degrees celsius of the setting on the controller. If you measure the liquid temp, rather than the air temp, it stays pretty steady.

 

[Brewer_Chad]

How do you measure the liquid temp?


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[zacster]

You can put a volume of liquid in the fridge and insert the probe if all you care about is stability. If you are looking to measure a specific liquid that may be generating its own heat, such as a fermenting beer, you would want to put the probe up against the bottle and insulate it from the air with some foam. In my case I had 2 bottles, both somewhat flexible plastic, and I stuck the probe between the 2 pressed together. You probably don't want to insert the probe in the beer itself though due to risk of contamination.

When I had the probe in the air, every time I opened the door the temp would jump and the fridge would turn on.

 

[Brewer_Chad]

It seems logical that moving the thermostat to a relatively colder spot in the fridge and blocking air circulation with 2 kegs would cause parts of the fridge to be warmer on the same thermostat setting.

I was thinking the same thing, but it defiantly had the opposite effect on mine. Maybe it's because I didn't pull the temperature wire deal completely out of the plastic sheathing when moving it behind the keg? I just bent it back some; it didn't looked kinked to me though.

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[Brewer_Chad]

Not to insult your intelligence but usually the higher number is cooler and the lower number is hotter. At least on my frigidaire minifridge. Could be different for your setup.

I figured what the hell couldn't hurt to check. Turned it up to 3 and was at 31 degrees in 4 hours today, turned it back down to 1 so I'll keep it there; it was at 34 degrees on below 1 after 24 hours so hopefully it will stay there and not freeze until I can get the new thermostat.


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[Brewer_Chad]

You can put a volume of liquid in the fridge and insert the probe if all you care about is stability. If you are looking to measure a specific liquid that may be generating its own heat, such as a fermenting beer, you would want to put the probe up against the bottle and insulate it from the air with some foam. In my case I had 2 bottles, both somewhat flexible plastic, and I stuck the probe between the 2 pressed together. You probably don't want to insert the probe in the beer itself though due to risk of contamination.

When I had the probe in the air, every time I opened the door the temp would jump and the fridge would turn on.

Let me be sure I understand this diagram. The black wire will need a splitter and and then go to 1 and 7? White goes to 2 and blue goes to 8? The sensor that comes with it goes in 3 and 4; are the wires coded to which side they go to? All other are simply capped off? This works with Microcomputer Temperature Controller STC-1000 Kitchenware with 220VAC Sensor correct? What gauge wire did you use? Anything I missed or any other suggestions to help me with this project is appreciated. I think I'm either going to cut a hole in the door and put it in there, or just lay it down on the compressor hump. Thanks for everyone's help.

http://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/attachm...sion-stc-1000-20wiring-20for-20frigidaire.jpg

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[DoubleEh]

Let me be sure I understand this diagram. The black wire will need a splitter and and then go to 1 and 7? White goes to 2 and blue goes to 8? The sensor that comes with it goes in 3 and 4; are the wires coded to which side they go to? All other are simply capped off? This works with Microcomputer Temperature Controller STC-1000 Kitchenware with 220VAC Sensor correct? What gauge wire did you use? Anything I missed or any other suggestions to help me with this project is appreciated. I think I'm either going to cut a hole in the door and put it in there, or just lay it down on the compressor hump. Thanks for everyone's help.

http://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/attachm...sion-stc-1000-20wiring-20for-20frigidaire.jpg

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You're in the US, so you want the 110VAC model.

 

[DesignatedDrinker]

I figured what the hell couldn't hurt to check. Turned it up to 3 and was at 31 degrees in 4 hours today, turned it back down to 1 so I'll keep it there; it was at 34 degrees on below 1 after 24 hours so hopefully it will stay there and not freeze until I can get the new thermostat.


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Sounds good.