Frigidaire Model FRC445GB Mini-Fridge Kegerator Conversion

[Kino]

I'm having issues getting this fridge cold enough now. At first it was too cold, but now I can't get it cold enough even at 6! With two kegs and at 6 it still only gets to ~48F.

I'm actually having the same problem. I converted the fridge 3-4 months ago, it ran great for a while, and then a month ago it started warming up and hasn't changed since no matter what the thermostat position is in. Every once in a while I'll still hear clicking and still hear coolant flowing through the lines, but it seems pretty rare for the compressor to actually run. So I'm hoping it's a problem with the thermostat (though if I'm hearing clicking, does that mean the thermostat's actually working?). I'll have to try bypassing it to see if I can force it on and cool the fridge.

 

[Kino]

I'm actually having the same problem. I converted the fridge 3-4 months ago, it ran great for a while, and then a month ago it started warming up and hasn't changed since no matter what the thermostat position is in. Every once in a while I'll still hear clicking and still hear coolant flowing through the lines, but it seems pretty rare for the compressor to actually run. So I'm hoping it's a problem with the thermostat (though if I'm hearing clicking, does that mean the thermostat's actually working?). I'll have to try bypassing it to see if I can force it on and cool the fridge.

So after leaving the fridge off for 2 days, it turned back on and the temperature got back down to the 30s. I then ended up letting it return to room temperature to make some additional mods including slightly widening the drain plug and connecting an external thermostat, and now the temperature is stuck at ~52 degrees. There's also a weird ice patch on the back of the fridge I hadn't ever seen before, making me think this might be a low refrigerant issue causing the evaporator to freeze up. So that sucks, at this point I'm considering the fridge to be a loss. Thankfully Best Buy has the fridge on sale today for $150...

 

[Briton]

Has anyone successfully figured out a way to have the fridge run a little quieter? It seems to squeal at a really high pitch whenever the compressor runs.

 

[csh]

Hi all and thanks for this thread. I'd already bought the new Lowes version of this fridge (LFPH44M4LM) when I stumbled on this site. I've spent the last few days reading every page of it. With that said, I'd like to ask a few questions that have already been answered about a million times. Just kidding.

I'm using the fridge to house two 5gal corneys (pepsi/ball) which are 8.5" wide and a 5lb tank. I'm going to see if I can sneak in a 3gal/8.5" corney on the hump but I'm thinking the reg will get in the way... unless the co2 tank is outside, which is not (really) an option for me.

My setup is going to feed a double tap tower on a bar. I'm not going to cool the tower but I am going to insulate it (There was a great suggestion about 40 pages back to use packing peanuts). The plan is to run beer lines from fridge to the tower. As the counter top the tower is attached to happens to be 2" above the top of the fridge, I'm debating how to connect the beer lines.

My first thought was to bring the beer lines out the bottom of the fridge (on the hump) and run them up the back side of the fridge using pipe insulation to try to keep things cool. The alternate idea is to run a right angle connector out the top and go up to the tower from there.

The hole in the counter top is already there, so no changing that and I want to be able to move the fridge a limited distance, meaning I can't have a direct connect (with copper pipes, etc) through the counter and then into the fridge... although I'm considering it, particularly in that I could cool the tower.

I'm planning to do the Love controller mod and I was thinking of removing the thermister and going with the 3in1 directly to avoid any future problems, particularly if I build the tower into the top of the fridge. Any comments on the failure rate of this part in the new Lowes fridges?

If I go the "out the bottom" route, I'll have to be careful to not hit anything in the bottom/top of the hump. There are several different comments on if there are or are not lines in the horizontal part of the hump. I did a temp test (I just plugged it in and let it get cold for a bit without the door on it). The hump never seems to get cold, so that's a good start. I'd like to do the starch/vodka test but I don't have any idea on the mixing proportions. A brief google attempt didn't turn up much more other than I can use flour instead of corn starch...

Any suggestions? Anyone know for a fact if there are lines in the horizontal section of the hump in the new Lowes version (LFPH44M4LM) of this fridge?

In any case, I'll post my build.

--
Primary: Irish Red Ale
Secondary: American Red Ale (Fat Tire clone)

 

[jCOSbrew]

Since you are restricted on the tower location by the existing hole in the counter it might be safer to get a different fridge with no lines in the top to line up the hole in the fridge to the counter and allow for copper pipes, fan, etc. for cooling the tower. With the frigidaire or any other fridge, I would recommend running the lines out the top for the shortest distance of beer line without cooling. With a direct route (and even on my fridge with copper pipe cooling) the beer in the lines will be warmer then the keg so the first 4-8oz will be all foam. After that point there should be cold beer in the lines and you will get a good pour. If the run the lines out the back you will have multiple cups of foam before you get cold lines and a good pour.

There is definitely a coolant line somewhere in the back hump, I have seen it in photos on this thread. I have external CO2 in my setup I have successfully drilled a couple holes in the back drain hole and drain channel for these lines.

 

[csh]

Since you are restricted on the tower location by the existing hole in the counter it might be safer to get a different fridge with no lines in the top to line up the hole in the fridge to the counter and allow for copper pipes, fan, etc. for cooling the tower. With the frigidaire or any other fridge, I would recommend running the lines out the top for the shortest distance of beer line without cooling. With a direct route (and even on my fridge with copper pipe cooling) the beer in the lines will be warmer then the keg so the first 4-8oz will be all foam. After that point there should be cold beer in the lines and you will get a good pour. If the run the lines out the back you will have multiple cups of foam before you get cold lines and a good pour.

There is definitely a coolant line somewhere in the back hump, I have seen it in photos on this thread. I have external CO2 in my setup I have successfully drilled a couple holes in the back drain hole and drain channel for these lines.

The run length of the lines is really making me reconsider going out the top. I was thinking of a 90 bend at the top *in* the insulation and a connection out the back of the fridge at the very top. After I posted yesterday, I called the counter top fabricater to see if they could push the tower forward by a few inches -- but they'd made the hole already, otherwise I could have run the tower straight into the fridge.

Thanks for the info about the drain channel. I was thinking that would be a safe place to put holes but again there's the distance/foam issue...

I've seen the pictures of the guy who drilled in the back, left corner (facing) successfully with the older version but there was someone else who said they hit a line in that area.

 

[doublehaul]

i just bought one of these on craigslist. the top was a little melted, but I pulled it up and the foam underneath wasn't burnt or anything so I think they just set something hot on it. Now I plugged it and cranked the temp and the outside sides of the fridge are pretty hot. It is like 95 degrees here. Anyone have any issues with this fridge?

 

[treynor]

I actually had to extend it out 3in or so to get the 2 1/6 to fit and make a custom door. You may be able to may be able to do the same.

 

[treynor]

 

[yehaww]

I was running around looking for a decent fridge today. I found this one at Lowes for $100 It's a 4.0l. I looked inside and the freezer "tray" is easily removable. So height isn't an issue. I was hoping to get 2 3 gallon corny kegs in it although I only had one with me at the store to test fit and it looked like it was a little over half the width. Also the door would definitely need to be cut away a bit.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_121700-2251-LFPH40M4NB_4294937007%2B4294965783__?productId=3701432&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=Frigidaire

I'm curious if anyone used it yet. Otherwise, I guess I go with this one,

http://www.lowes.com/pd_326299-47224-LFPH44M4LM_4294937007%2B4294965783__?productId=3256590&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=Frigidaire

It's double the price and I think it's the same fridge listed in this thread although the model #'s don't match up.

 

[yehaww]

I was running around looking for a decent fridge today. I found this one at Lowes for $100 It's a 4.0l. I looked inside and the freezer "tray" is easily removable. So height isn't an issue. I was hoping to get 2 3 gallon corny kegs in it although I only had one with me at the store to test fit and it looked like it was a little over half the width. Also the door would definitely need to be cut away a bit.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_121700-2251-LFPH40M4NB_4294937007%2B4294965783__?productId=3701432&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=Frigidaire

I'm curious if anyone used it yet. Otherwise, I guess I go with this one,

http://www.lowes.com/pd_326299-47224-LFPH44M4LM_4294937007%2B4294965783__?productId=3256590&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=Frigidaire

It's double the price and I think it's the same fridge listed in this thread although the model #'s don't match up.

 

[elganso]

Has anyone successfully figured out a way to have the fridge run a little quieter? It seems to squeal at a really high pitch whenever the compressor runs.

This was driving me crazy too. I ended up purchasing an acoustic foam panel (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007XGKRW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20).

I then cut it to size to form a rectangle "box" on the back of the unit where the compressor is. I sealed using metallic tape. It dampened things a bit, but I wasn't thrilled. There was still quite a bit of noise escaping from underneath the unit. So, I added a strip the entire width of the fridge about halfway out (didn't "seal" this completely on the sides, since I wanted there to be some air transfer).

That helped enough so that I can live with it in the kitchen. Clearly, I assume this is not good for the longevity of the compressor, since all that heat is trapped back there in the "box". But had to do something for my own sanity...

 

[elganso]

It's double the price and I think it's the same fridge listed in this thread although the model #'s don't match up.

LFPH44M4LM is the newer model of the fridge originally modded in this thread. About 3/4 of the way through this thread, everyone starts talking about this newer model. Only significant difference is that the door molding is not conducive to fitting two cornys -- so you need to hack that out. If you go through the most recent 20 pages or so, you'll see the various methodologies for doing this.

 

[yehaww]

Ok, thanks. I read through quite a few pages but this is a loooooong thread!

 

[elganso]

Ok, thanks. I read through quite a few pages but this is a loooooong thread!

Heh. Indeed. Epic and super helpful thread... other than the compressor noise issues I've had, I'm thrilled with this kegerator.

 

[yehaww]

Heh. Indeed. Epic and super helpful thread... other than the compressor noise issues I've had, I'm thrilled with this kegerator.

I got the fridge and was super pleased to find i could fit both my 3 gallon cornys on the floor of the unit with no door mods at all. Fantastic. It's a little bigger than the "mini fridge" I told my wife it would be when I sold her on the idea though.

 

[JohnsonTM]

Hey Guys,

I'm new to the forum and had a few questions after reading through this thread. I'm still in college so initially I'm just going to be using my kegerator for 1/6 barrel kegs but I want to eventually start home brewing when I have my own place.

I'd prefer not to remove the door panel on the fridge and was wondering whether I would have to on the Lowe's Frigidaire LFPH44M4LM to fit just one 1/6 barrel? I read that you don't have to on the Best Buy model but that was for two corny kegs.

Also, does anyone know if this fridge will fit a slim quarter or even a full quarter with a stand?

Thanks in advance

 

[bygracealone]

Hey guys,

Best Buy has model BFPH44M4LM on sale now for $170 (and if you have a Discover Card, you can also get 5% cashback through ShopDiscover...).

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Frigida...701&skuId=9723554&st=frigidaire 4.4&cp=1&lp=1

I just picked one up and the door looks like it won't need to be modified to fit the two cornies.

I'm excited to start this project, but won't be able to for a couple of weeks.

Anyway, I just thought I'd pass along the word...

Cheers!

 

[gornick54]

Awesome thread! Love the photos, really are going to help with my conversion. Cheers

 

[cysiam]

I am getting ready to convert this fridge (FRC455GB) and I put in the both kegs and the co2 tank just to test the fit. The co2 tank won't sit on the back hump with the regulator attached unless I lean it slightly. This isn't a huge problem, but it would make me more comfortable if it fit upright. Has anyone else experienced this? Maybe the 5lb tank I have it slightly too tall.

 

[csh]

I am getting ready to convert this fridge (FRC455GB) and I put in the both kegs and the co2 tank just to test the fit. The co2 tank won't sit on the back hump with the regulator attached unless I lean it slightly. This isn't a huge problem, but it would make me more comfortable if it fit upright. Has anyone else experienced this? Maybe the 5lb tank I have it slightly too tall.

I just converted this fridge and it was easy thanks to all the great info in this (unbelievably enormous) thread. I included two pics to show that I can get a 5lb co2 tank in the back on the hump but I need to lean the co2 gauges over rather than leaning the tank over. (Does this cause issues with gauge accuracy?)

The second picture shows that it is possible to get 2x5gal corney ball lock kegs, a 3 gal corney and a 5lb tank with the regulator. I will say that in order to do this one must move the thermostat and cut out the plastic on the door. I currently only have a single 5gal in the fridge so, I have not moved the thermostat (plus I want to do the Love controller mod). The right hand keg is not in all the way because of the thermostat.

I'm pondering the idea of mounting the regulator to the back of the fridge on a bit of plywood with a co2 manifold to supply all three kegs. My understanding is that this would require a high pressure gas hose. However, the ply would give enough room to mount the regulator horizontally.

One comment for anyone thinking about using this fridge. If you're cutting through the styrofoam in the top of the fridge take the damn thing to the garage or outside the house first. Don't even think about trying to do this inside or you'll end up with hundreds of styrofoam dust bunnies on the floor, the wall, the furniture, the roof, the cat, in the kitchen and even in the sheets of your bed (stuck to my foot, I think)... Seriously. If I didn't live alone, I'd be dead now.

 

[whiskeyjack]

Making this very soon! Hopefully

 

[pig140]

Bought my fridge and about to start my build. Two questions...

1. I noticed two people in the last 60-something pages said they built theirs in. Anybody else?

2. Anybody run their lines thru the side and have any pics? I read where a member talked about wanting to do it, but not sure if anybody actually has. I was thinking of doing something like this....

http://www.micromatic.com/beer-questions/dispense-keg-beer-away-from-refrigerator-aid-419.html

 

[63belair]

I built mine, and it has been up and running for a while now. I went with a no frills build, 2 ball locks, CO2 inside on the hump, 2 faucets drilled through the door. I've been very happy with it thus far.

 

[pig140]

Thanks for replying, I'm kinda going for a no frills build. I want it to hold just one 1/6 barrel and some stuff from my bar.

But, I was actually asking if anybody built it IN - as in built into a cabinet.

 

[csh]

Bought my fridge and about to start my build. Two questions...

1. I noticed two people in the last 60-something pages said they built theirs in. Anybody else?

2. Anybody run their lines thru the side and have any pics? I read where a member talked about wanting to do it, but not sure if anybody actually has. I was thinking of doing something like this....

http://www.micromatic.com/beer-questions/dispense-keg-beer-away-from-refrigerator-aid-419.html

I built mine.

I considered three options for running the tap lines. First, as in my pictures above, everyone seemed to be successful going through the top (after digging through the styro to find the coolant lines).

The second I considered was going through the hump bottom. I didn't find anyone/any posts that was successful in going through the sides. The back also has coolant lines but in the horizontal section of the hump (and possibly the lower vertical section) there is the possibility of successfully drilling a hole. I didn't do this but I saw a post where someone cut out the lower vertical section of the hump to make room for a 1/6 keg. I tested the horizontal section by running the fridge with the door open. The horizontal section of the hump in my fridge never got cold. YMMV. I decided not to go this route due to the length of non-chilled hose from the back of the fridge to the tap. I opted for the first, through the top, method.

I discarded the last option, taps in the door, because I built a bar where I have a two tap tower fixed to a 6'x2' sheet of granite. You'd be surprised how cheap granite is (with the economy in the trash) if you buy it fabricated but not installed... but then it's up to you and your friends to get it home and mounted. The granite cost me about $175. The install was 22 beers.

Additionally, many people have fed the thermometer probe for a fridge controller through the fridge drain hole. Since the fridge controls inside need to be moved to permit two ball-lock corneys, many people opt for an external controller (Love, JC, etc).

I will say that you should be prepared to remove the plastic on the door in order to have more space in the fridge. I'm planning to mount a whiteboard on the inside of the door but I have not gotten around to it since I've had good, cold beer on tap less than ten steps from my sofa.

--
Primary: Double IPA
Secondary: Cabernet Sauvignon
Bottles: Fat Tire clone
Keg 1: Red Irish Ale
Keg 2: empty
Keg 3: Root Beer

 

[pig140]

Thanks for your reply. I think my current plan is to build it in where it will be flush against the back and open somewhat on the sides. I talked to a friend who owns an industrial plumbing/AC business and he said to do this:

1. Cut a 4" opening on the bottom rear sides of the refrigerator panels.
2. Run 4" flex duct from one side up to a vent (I"m gonna hide mine under the bar top)
3. Place an inline fan in the middle of the duct

This should pull cool room air from the top and blow it across the compressor. The other side will be open to some shelves in my bar, which is where any heat should be pushed.

If this works, I can top mount the tower through the bar top like you did. And have it built in to my bar.

 

[csh]

Thanks for your reply. I think my current plan is to build it in where it will be flush against the back and open somewhat on the sides. I talked to a friend who owns an industrial plumbing/AC business and he said to do this:

1. Cut a 4" opening on the bottom rear sides of the refrigerator panels.
2. Run 4" flex duct from one side up to a vent (I"m gonna hide mine under the bar top)
3. Place an inline fan in the middle of the duct

This should pull cool room air from the top and blow it across the compressor. The other side will be open to some shelves in my bar, which is where any heat should be pushed.

If this works, I can top mount the tower through the bar top like you did. And have it built in to my bar.

I built my fridge into a cabinet/bar structure. The fridge is about 21" wide and I left about 3/4" on each side. The fridge dumps heat on the side panels so it's important to have airflow over these side panels. I built a kickboard into the cabinet and cut a hole in the base. I mounted a 4" computer fan in the hole so air is pulled past the sides of the fridge. Presently, the fan vents out through the kickboard space. If the compressor gets too hot, then I'll reverse the direction of the fan so the cool air passes over the compressor first and then the heat sinks on the fridge.

The fridge had been in place and running for about a month without the fan. I noticed that I kept needing to raise the temp of the fridge thermometer to keep it about about 35F. As soon as I turned on the fan, the temp dropped to 20F in the fridge and I had to set the thermometer back to about 2.

--
Primary: Double IPA
Secondary: Cabernet Sauvignon
Bottles: Fat Tire clone
Keg 1: Red Irish Ale
Keg 2: empty
Keg 3: Root Beer

 

[pig140]

I wondered about venting it out the bottom but I think my cabinet is too high. I'm also curious what the reversing the fan will do in your set up. Very interesting! Glad to hear somebody else has built it into a cabinet and vented it with a fan. Very encouraging!

 

[csh]

I wondered about venting it out the bottom but I think my cabinet is too high. I'm also curious what the reversing the fan will do in your set up. Very interesting! Glad to hear somebody else has built it into a cabinet and vented it with a fan. Very encouraging!

The largest issue when building it into a structure is that you need to ensure that there is reasonable airflow over the heat sinks. In the case of this fridge, I'm thinking that means the sides, the back and the compressor.

In my build, I have a large airspace over the fridge that I need to fill or block so the air will move over the sides rather than simply over the top.

My fan is setup to pull air past the fridge right now. This means that the cooler (room temp) air should pass over the side heat sink first, then the back compressor coil, then the compressor. Of those three things, I'd guess that the compressor runs the hottest by design. If the air to cool it has already been heated by the side heat sinks then that air will have a smaller thermal difference than fresh (room temp) air and will cool the compressor less.

By reversing the fan, air will push past the fridge, compressor first then the heat sinks, rather than pulling. The coolest air will hit the compressor first. Granted that means there is a smaller thermal difference at the heat sink. I set the fan up to pull air because the heat sink seems to run cooler than the compressor. In the push direction, if the compressor heats up the air too much it's possible that the air could be as hot as the heat sink when it passes over the heat sink. Not good.

I also got this gadget to turn on and off the fans and the lights:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZTWYXY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

--
Primary: Double IPA
Secondary: Cabernet Sauvignon
Bottles: Fat Tire clone
Keg 1: Red Irish Ale
Keg 2: empty
Keg 3: Root Beer