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Frigidaire Model FRC445GB Mini-Fridge Kegerator Conversion

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Holy crap! I just registered for this site today and I would like to thank a lot of you for all the GREAT information on this forum!! I just completed my conversion of the Fridgidaire mini fridge last night and COULD NOT have done it nearly as smooth without all the great tips here! I will post a pic of the fridge within the next few days, but basically I have the fridge in a small room where my sump pump resides and I ran the beer line up to the tap behind the wall. I then have the drip tray draining back into the sump pump. Once again, thanks for all the tips!!
ry%3D480
 
Not sure if you all can access these photos or not, hopefully so. This is my take on the frigidaire conversion. Definitely had some help from this thread before getting started, and hopefully this will help out someone else!

Here's the finished product:
ahymq2


Here's the whole project album:
http://s875.photobucket.com/albums/ab314/ahymq2/

If photo bucket didn't work and you have facebook give that a shot:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?a...s=#/album.php?aid=2041041&id=121202703&ref=nf

That's a great looking setup! You don't happen to have the dimensions for the cabinet build do you?
 
Has anyone actually fit 2 kegs in this mini fridge? Could we see pictures?

I bought this fridge about a week ago, my 2 5gal. kegs came today and I started removing the shelves, light, etc. but am not sure what to do about the temperature controller and excess wires.

Here are some pictures of what I am having trouble with:
IMG_0159.JPG

IMG_0160.JPG
 
Yes, just as long as they are not pin lock kegs. It is tight but they fit. I will add a pic later. From what I hear you can also get a 3gal in the back. I just got some from midwest cheap for another project that will be hear tomorrow. If so, I will be adding another tap. As far as the light and stat go. Just pull out a little slack and push it to the back. Just be careful not to kink it.
 
Has anyone actually fit 2 kegs in this mini fridge? Could we see pictures?

I bought this fridge about a week ago, my 2 5gal. kegs came today and I started removing the shelves, light, etc. but am not sure what to do about the temperature controller and excess wires.

Here are some pictures of what I am having trouble with:
IMG_0159.JPG

IMG_0160.JPG

dude...have you even looked through this thread? It's all about many of us converting it to hold two cornies and a 5#co2 tank. I also have pics in this thread showing it can hold them.

All you have to do is carefully move that temp controller out of the way. c'mon man...doesn't take much effort to look at the pics in this thread and it's actually very fun.
 
Not sure if you all can access these photos or not, hopefully so. This is my take on the frigidaire conversion. Definitely had some help from this thread before getting started, and hopefully this will help out someone else!

Here's the finished product:
ahymq2


Here's the whole project album:
http://s875.photobucket.com/albums/ab314/ahymq2/

If photo bucket didn't work and you have facebook give that a shot:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?a...s=#/album.php?aid=2041041&id=121202703&ref=nf

That is a thing of beauty. If you have any sort of dimensions that would be ultimately appreciated. Very jealous!
 
Has anyone actually fit 2 kegs in this mini fridge? Could we see pictures?

I bought this fridge about a week ago, my 2 5gal. kegs came today and I started removing the shelves, light, etc. but am not sure what to do about the temperature controller and excess wires.

Yes! 2 kegs fit.
2_kegs.JPG


There are no extra wires. The manufactures sent the correct amount.

Some people shift it back and some remove it completely.
I did the later. Added an external T-stat.

old_t-stat.JPG


old_t-stat_out.JPG


new_t-stat.JPG
 
Not sure if you all can access these photos or not, hopefully so. This is my take on the frigidaire conversion. Definitely had some help from this thread before getting started, and hopefully this will help out someone else!

Here's the finished product:
ahymq2


Here's the whole project album:
http://s875.photobucket.com/albums/ab314/ahymq2/

If photo bucket didn't work and you have facebook give that a shot:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?a...s=#/album.php?aid=2041041&id=121202703&ref=nf

thats really cool. I like the idea.

how did you attach the caps? thin-set and grout?
 
I also completed a conversion for one tap for this fridge. I put my faucet through the door. The only issue I had was punching through the door with my crappy drill.
 
How did you add the external? I would love to do this. I thought if you kinked or bent the other the fridge was then bricked.
 
Also, have you tried to fit a 3 gallon on the back shelf. I have a couple being delivered tomorrow for another project and was going to give it a try. If so, I'll add another tap and move the CO2 to the outside thru the drain.
 
Would someone mind measuring the inside Dimensions? I'm looking for:
distance from the door to hump depth: ??
compressor hump depth: ??
compressor hump height: ??
total inside height: ??
I'm trying to sketch some plans for an inside wood shelf for bottles, to maybe go around a 3 gallon corny. I'm also curious about how much bigger a carboy and Ale Pale ferm Bucket is than the inside of this fridge. Thanks.
 
Hi guys,
first time on this site - stumbled across on accident. I purchased this refrig last weekend and mounted my tower on top - luckily i didn't hit any lines as I didn't think any were even up there! my lucky day I guess. I was hoping to put two 1/6 kegs in this refrig. is that possible?
thanks Ed
 
No. You would only be able to fit one by its self. Two 5gal corneys are a tight fit. Why not just keg jump from the sixth to a 5gal. Then it would fit just fine.
 
I haven't started home brewing yet so I end up buying my beer from the stores and they only sell the 1/6 kegs. I'm assuming it's a width problem
as I would need a touch over 18 1/2" clear for them to sit side by side.
 
exactly. You can buy 2 corney kegs cheap and just make a jumper wih the sankey tap and a ball lock valve. The 1/6th is pretty much the same as the 5gal corney just a bit wider and taller when you use the sankey tap.
 
Thanks for your response's however I'm not following your advice (excuse me as I'm a noob to all this)

I want to put two kegs in this refrig. it appears I can't do this with "store bought" kegs i.e. 1/6 kegs. Are you suggesting I take the beer out of the 1/6 keg and place it into the 5 gal corny? do this twice with two different kegs?
again sorry for the stupid questions.
 
:mug:I just bought one tonight and will be converting it when my tower gets here this weekend. Some one said earlier in the post that a 1/6 barrel will fit in it with the sanky tap, i cant verify it put it is posted earlier... has any one put the tower towards the middle more instead of at the front or the way back? im going to attempt that and hopefully it will work. will post some pics of the finished product this weekend hopefully!!:ban:
 
Mine is in the center. You have to be careful of the coils when you drill it. It is pretty easy, but time consuming getting it together. I have pics of mine on here, just search the thread for the link to them.
 
:mug:I just bought one tonight and will be converting it when my tower gets here this weekend. Some one said earlier in the post that a 1/6 barrel will fit in it with the sanky tap, i cant verify it put it is posted earlier... has any one put the tower towards the middle more instead of at the front or the way back? im going to attempt that and hopefully it will work. will post some pics of the finished product this weekend hopefully!!:ban:


Could you measure these 4 dimensions when you do the conversion? Thanks bud.


depth from the door to compressor hump : ??
compressor hump depth: ??
compressor hump height: ??
total inside height: ??

Also, There is some documentation of a tower mount more towards the middle. its in this thread somewhere.
 
Schupaul, that looks very nice and mine is almost exactly the same, the rails i put on mine look just like yours. i was just wondering where you got the rail mat you use for the driptray in that small size, i have only seen them long. Did you cut it down? from the picture it looks like you didnt.
 
Just bought this fridge this weekend. Scratch and dent for 125. Small dent on the front. However I was thinking of another way to add a tower without risking the coolant lines. Couldn't you mount the tower to the top rear of the fridge, then run the lines throught the insulation to the front of the fridge where there aren't any lines. Then drill a hole in the top to bring the lines inside?
 
That's a great looking setup! You don't happen to have the dimensions for the cabinet build do you?

I wish I had some plans to give you but it consisted of nothing more than some dimensionless sketches. I bought the Frigidaire from Lowe's and started building around that and my CO2 bottle.

I just used 3/4" pine plywood for the sides and shelves and built the frame from cheap 2x2's. The top is two layers of 5/8" particle board framed in window sash stock of all things. There is a 1/4" thick 6" wide pine board across the top where the towers mount and I left the area below that board with a 1/4 deep inset area for all the bottle tops. They are laid in just as regular floor tile, glued in place then grouted around with clear acrylic sprayed on top.
 
I finally got my corney keg, and was able too fit inside along with my 1/6 keg!
That was exactly what I was hoping for. this refrig is great!
 
Yes! 2 kegs fit.
2_kegs.JPG


There are no extra wires. The manufactures sent the correct amount.

Some people shift it back and some remove it completely.
I did the later. Added an external T-stat.

old_t-stat.JPG


old_t-stat_out.JPG


new_t-stat.JPG



I picked up this fridge, and am looking at ordering this Love Controller:
http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/product_view.asp?sku=9352000

My question for Bumbler is:
since wiring is my weakpoint in DIY projects, Im learining that people do either of these two, correct me where I'm incorrect:

A) plug the controller between the unit and the wall, and the entire unit comes on/off when the controller switches on/off.

or

B) Wire the controller into the unit's wiring system, replacing the factory thermostat ( as you seem to have done). Its my understanding that this can keep the unit "on" and just cycles the compressor when the controller switches on.

and Bumbler, from your picture that shows the fridge with removed thermostat, did you splice/wirenut anything together there, or just disconnect the wires from the factory controller and tape them to the side?

Does option (A) mean more "wear and tear" on the unit because it gets switched off/on everytime (or use more energy for a 'start up' each time)?
and for option B (as you say you did), did you just remove the factory, and put your Ranco between the wall and the fridge, or wire it in somehow?

I think i'll go A, because i'd rather keep it intact for now, but im wondering if simply disconnecting the thermostat will affect the Love contol plugged in between the unit and the wall socket.


Thanks to anyone who wants to give their opinion, you guys rock.
 
My question is:
since wiring is my weakpoint in DIY projects, Im learining that people do either of these two, correct me where I'm incorrect:

A) plug the controller between the unit and the wall, and the entire unit comes on/off when the controller switches on/off.

or

B) Wire the controller into the unit's wiring system, replacing the factory thermostat ( as you seem to have done). Its my understanding that this can keep the unit "on" and just cycles the compressor when the controller switches on.

Option A and option B are essentially the same thing, the only difference is where you splice the controller in.

these mini-fridges are pretty bare bones operations. No bells and whistles. If the fridge isn't running it's not using power.

Bumbler, from your picture that shows the fridge with removed thermostat, did you splice/wirenut anything together there, or just disconnect the wires from the factory controller and tape them to the side?

No, nothing is splice or wire-nutted on the inside of the fridge. All splices and wire-nuts are done from the back, down by the compressor. After the mod, the 120v that was present at the factory t-stat has been disconnected. That's why all I did was secure the wires to the side of the fridge. This way I can restore the fridge back to it's original configuration someday.

option (A) mean more "wear and tear" on the unit because it gets switched off/on everytime (or use more energy for a 'start up' each time)?
and for option B (as you say you did), did you just remove the factory, and put your Ranco between the wall and the fridge, or wire it in somehow?

Option A and option B place equal "wear and tear" on the unit. The compressor is either on or it's off. For the most part it doesn't matter where you break the power, as long as it's on the hot side.

I chose to completely remove the factory t-stat because I like the look better .


think i'll go A, because i'd rather keep it intact for now, but im wondering if simply disconnecting the thermostat will affect the Love contol plugged in between the unit and the wall socket.


Thanks to anyone who wants to give their opinion, you guys rock.

I doubt there would be any problems or ill effects with having both the love controller and the factory t-stat intact.

With option A - I would recommend leaving the factory t-stat connected as per mfg. Just turn it to its lowest setting so power will always be allowed to pass to the compressor when your controller calls for cooling.

A few weeks ago I had sent someone instructions for the mod. I was hoping he'd write it up and take pictures of the process for all to see, since I didn't. All my pics are after shots.

Hope this helps.

Good luck.
 
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