FlyGuy's T-siphon: a $3 replacement for an autosiphon

[Chuck_in_WI]

It sounds like several people have tried/modified this trick. In the original post, the T was halfway through the straight piece(s). Is it better to put it closer to the bottom of the straight piece? That way the siphoned fluid has a lot of momentum as it goes into the secondary vessel?

Any thoughts?

Chuck

 

[Limited Visibility]

Made it a couple of weeks ago... just used it tonight. Loved it!

 

[CATFISHER74]

Anyone have a video of this in action?

 

[DPB]

Great idea!

 

[anemic]

thanks flyguy. My autosiphon only lasted 6 batches before the gasket developed a micro tear, which allowed air, bubbled and stopped the siphon (not ideal). I didn't want to buy a new one, thus the $3 T-siphon. My hose end curled up and stopped the siphon. I keep some Romex copper wire in my sanitizer on brew days. I have used it to hang my stir spoon on the brewpot handles. I used about a 30" length of it on the siphon intake to:
* keep the hose straight
* bend the hose at the top like a racking cane
* prevent the siphon from taking a sip of the trub (that is where I thought I would miss the AS, but with a half inch of copper in the way, the tube end hovers in the clear beer above the trub and leaves it all there)

thanks again flyguy. I love clever and cheap DIY creations...and homebrew.

 

[masonsjax]

Is there any reason you couldn't have a short hose, maybe 6 inches or so on the T with the clamp very close to the T?

 

[ThoughtPolice]

Nice. I have been getting poor performance out of my autosiphon, I'll have to build one of these.
I thought about putting a valve on my 3rd hose instead of the hose clamp but that is ridiculous. The only thing I don't like is about it is cleaning even more plastic tubing than I already have to. Oh well.

 

[weirdboy]

One thing that springs to mind that would solve both the "getting the siphon started" issue as well as the "air pocket" problem would be instead of just a regular t-connector, use a three-way valve. I did a quick search online and found these in a 2-pack for $1.99.

Instead of sucking on the middle part, attach the racking cane from the fermenter in the middle and suck on the "top". Turn the ball valve to "left L" (between racking cane and your mouth), and start the siphon. When the beer gets close to the T, turn it to "right L" (between racking cane and wherever you want the beer to go) and let the beer flow.

EDIT: fixed valve description

 

[masonsjax]

I brewed yesterday and used a plastic T to start my siphon. It worked like a charm, and the T section kept the whole contraption at the perfect height in my carboy. I use a pinhole in a tube for aeration. Thanks for the tip, I'm very happy with this solution.

 

[jeffk14]

I'm gonna make one of these. I scanned the thread, but didn't see a source for the red hose clamp. Anybody know where to get that piece? Thanks.

 

[weirdboy]

I'm gonna make one of these. I scanned the thread, but didn't see a source for the red hose clamp. Anybody know where to get that piece? Thanks.

I got one that came with a "basic" brewing equipment kit that I ordered from...I think midwest but it was a long time ago. Since the kit didn't come with any instructions and I'd never brewed before, I think it was about a year before I figured out what the hell it was for.

 

[mordantly]

good stuff! autosyphon doesn't like boiling water for more than 2 seconds.

 

[hendo6682]

good stuff! autosyphon doesn't like boiling water for more than 2 seconds.

Boy that's the truth. I melted my autosyphon trying to syphon my hot wort through my counter flow chiller. It melted beyond recognition. In hindsite it wasn't one of the smartest thing I've done. I will definenately be making one of these to use for the cfc.

 

[mb2696]

has anyone seen a plastic tee or plastic inline valve for 1/2" hose? i would like to make a 1/2" version but haven't seen those parts anywhere (at least cheap plastic)

 

[masonsjax]

You could check at your local hardware store. The big guys stock some vinyl barbed tees and inline valves in various sizes I believe.

 

[FlyGuy]

has anyone seen a plastic tee or plastic inline valve for 1/2" hose? i would like to make a 1/2" version but haven't seen those parts anywhere (at least cheap plastic)

I am not sure that a 1/2" tee-siphon would work all that well. You would need a lot of suction to get that going. I don't think I could do it, anyways. Even with smaller tubing, if I cut it too long I have difficulty.

 

[mb2696]

You could check at your local hardware store. The big guys stock some vinyl barbed tees and inline valves in various sizes I believe.

yea i looked at lowes and home depot and didn't see a cheap tee or valve in that size. i could have missed it or maybe they were out though.

I am not sure that a 1/2" tee-siphon would work all that well. You would need a lot of suction to get that going. I don't think I could do it, anyways. Even with smaller tubing, if I cut it too long I have difficulty.

yea it would take a good bit of suction to get it going. i haven't really had any trouble with the smaller tubing though, so i'd like to try. either way, if i find the parts, i'll let you all know how it works out...

 

[aa_atw]

You can also start your siphon by filling up the T-section with sanitized water, pinching off the new vessel hose to create a vacuum, and letting the water run out. (Assuming your T-line is longer than 2x the length of your carboy)

 

[Beer-Baron]

If you had a bottling wand at the end of the hose. If you've got the middle of the T clamped off tightly. Would you be able to bottle a batch of beer using this thing?

Would the vacuum Stop and Start with the valve on the bottom of the wand?

 

[fiat84]

Cannot upload a picture so to help visualize here is a movie clip/picture link of the concept only showing how the "T-siphon" works but using the Buon Vino Super Automatic Bottle Filler: http://www.buonvino.com/P_BotFill.shtml -For filling my wine bottles as per the device instructions to start the siphon you suck on the small bottom "overflow tube" that is low near the ground when the flow regulator valve is "open".

My interpretation of how to construct the T-Siphon:
1 x nylon barb tee(T) (whatever size fits your siphon hose)
1 x cheap hose clamp
3 pieces of siphon hose(A,B,C):

A – top hose will be attached to the racking cane(if using) or directly inserted into transferring vessel. Must be long enough so the T connector hangs LOWER than the vessel you are racking liquid from.
B – bottom hose, inserted into receiving vessel on the ground.
C – middle hose is used to start the siphon by sucking pressure, has the hose clamp, needs to be at least as long as hose A since it should be held higher than the vessel containing the liquid when you start to suck.

To Build:
1. Using the T connect hose A and hose B together inline(a straight line).
2. Attach hose C to the one remaining T connector end(90 degree right angle), then attach the hose clamp to hose C.

 

[dougf]

Very nice. Just got back from lowes, making one now and will use shortly!

 

[dougf]

Used it last night, and screwed it all up. Ended up leaving about 6 beers worth in the primary because I was just pissed. Got suckback that went down to the keg a couple times, hose curled, couldnt control its depth, end kept coming up and losing the siphon, amp didnt work causing massive air to get into the beer going into the keg, overall disaster, I probably should have practiced more first.

 

[anemic]

I have some copper romex that I washed, sanitized and coiled around the end of mine. It sticks out a little bit in order to keep the tip off the trub, mostly. It keeps the tube decoiled (straight) Makes it work optimally for me. I have to be careful with dryhopped brews clogging it and making for a time consuming frustrating evening.

 

[robertjm]

Time to keep the thread going!!

I made one of Flyguy's T-syphons today to rack some wine. Created one heck of amount of aeration for whatever reason. However, once I put my thumb over the end of the "suck" tube the aeration completely stopped and the syphon became full strength.

Also, I would suggest getting some small length of metal tube, such as a keg drip tube and then fasten it to the end of the hose going into the new destination vessel by way of a stainless steel hose clamp. This will prevent the hose from curling and/or floating.

Going to try and find some type of a three-way ball valve to use instead of the hose pinch and think that will take care of the need to stick my thumb on the hose. More later if/when I succeed.

Robert

 

[MikeRoBrew1]

Would love to see some 'action pictures' please!

 

[masonsjax]

I had a plastic hose clamp on mine but it broke. Now I just fold the tube and put a small spring clamp on (harbor freight kind) to hold it once a siphon is started and it works great.

 

[jiggs_casey]

This figures... I just used my newly bought autosiphon! I was going to rant and rave about how 'kick a$$' it is! How it transfered from my primary to secondary in just a few minutes...

Then I run across this thread! Of course, I'm going to have to try it...

 

[DustBow]

This comes in handy for my 3/8" SS racking cane.
Would this work w/ silicone tubing?
I've never used silicone but was thinking about making the switch away from the vinyl stuff.
Would the silicone just fold up on itself when you sucked on it? Or is it not quite that flexible?

 

[-TH-]

This comes in handy for my 3/8" SS racking cane.
Would this work w/ silicone tubing?
I've never used silicone but was thinking about making the switch away from the vinyl stuff.
Would the silicone just fold up on itself when you sucked on it? Or is it not quite that flexible?

I use silicone for my siphon tubing and this method works very well. No problems with colapsing, etc.

 

[DustBow]

I use silicone for my siphon tubing and this method works very well. No problems with colapsing, etc.

sweet, thanks.
add one more item to the shopping list