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Is anyone else having trouble with alot of foam using floating dip tube?
Floating dip tube
- Thread starter garvinator70
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Just started using clear beer versions and haven’t noticed anything different.
What brand/model are you using? Some people report similar issues when the intake is floating near the top of the beer line. That means it is pulling in both beer and CO2. A common solution is to at a little weight to the tubing (like a stainless nut or washer) that will help to keep it submerged.
This is typically due to the tubing getting hung up on the side of the keg and not allowing the open end to stay submerged. Solutions range from adding a heavy stainless washer to the split ring to weigh it down a bit to installing a weldless thermowell in the lid so that the split ring rides down the center of the keg away from the wall. Another one I thought of is to vacuum seal a small rare earth magnet inside a plastic pouch and attach that to the split ring. Then on the outside of the keg, apply a mating magnet and you can then nudge it downward an inch or so whenever that "gas sucking" foam happens. This last one is a little frustrating because you have to keep moving the magnet down the whole way to empty. I've used this method on clear fermenters but I don't need to keep the outside magnet in place since I can see in.
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not sure purchased on Amazon it is working good now probally overcarbed a little
I’ve been using the Clear Beer system in 10 of my kegs for a number of years without any issues.
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The "Clear Beer" system floating dip tubes which are excellent (I have 8 of them) do not have this problem as the float/assembly is heavy. The other type of floating dip tubes (which I have 2 of) do sometimes do this, as the end is much lighter. For these type of dip tubes a weight as suggested above will solve this problem.
John
John
ArizonaGoalie
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I use the lighter floating dip tubes I get from my brew shop, never heard of the Clear Beer version, just ordered it. Thanks!
Even if it has a higher price, the original Clear Beer Draught System is worth it. No need to tinker or jury rig it to get consistent results.
DuncB
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Bobby I've used this method on clear fermenter as well. The rare earth attraction to the SS ring is enough.
Paradoxically I use it during closed transfers near the end to keep the inlet away from any trub in the bottom.
I have a few FLotit 2.0's and they're awesome. Ferment and serve in the same keg.
I've added the FLotit 2.0's filters to my ball floats and they work great. NO BEER LEFT BEHIND!
And no yeasty glasses. Drop hops right in, no problem. I wish they were easy put together,
And no yeasty glasses. Drop hops right in, no problem. I wish they were easy put together,
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I also use the type of floating dip tube in odie's picture and had problems out of the box. The problem I had was exactly as Bobby desicribed. After adding some weight to keep the end submerged, I've had no problems.
Draft Master Flash
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I just got a couple of Flotit 2.0s. The thing is if you try to do a closed transfer you can't go through the liquid out post because with the Flotit 2.0 filter it will just clog. There are ways to get around this like going through the "in" post and opening up the PRV but I like a return line back to the fermenter stopper coming from the "in" post. I wish I would of taken this into consideration before going this route. I'm just going to fill through the lid of the corny and just purge well and hopefully will be okay..
DMF
DMF
I have a Flotit 2.0 filter in my allrounder. Ive never cloged the Flotit 2.0 filter in the serving keg transfering.
I'm confused on this. Are you trying to push beer through a line that has a Flotit connected to it on the outlet? If so, of course it would clog. This is the incorrect way of using it if I'm understanding this correctly.
The double screen is there to filter hops and trub from going into the tubing. Not the other way around.
Never had an issue with my Flotit, and I've dry hopped a ton, and served from the fermenter with no clogs.
I have the same potential issue or question as @Draft Master Flash. I usually do a closed transfer into my keg through the liquid post. With a standard dip tube, the beer transfers into the bottom of the keg. With the Flotit (I have the first version) there is potential for any material to clog the filter from the inside. So far, I have only used my Flotit when I have tried to ferment in a keg once or twice. I do have an inline filter with a coarse filter (VacMotion branded) that I use during transfer. For me, that should reduce the chance of a clog.
I also have a float like the one picture above, without a filter. It came with a transfer set, but I have not used that one yet.
Another issue is that the basic/cheap versions often come with tubing that is too stiff. It doesn’t bend around as easily in the relatively narrow keg and can also cause the float to stick in place. annoying. Bought softer tubing off ebay and stainless washers. No issues at all once the changes made.
OOOhh I was confused too.. The Floatit is on the liquid post in the serving keg. I always think of a floating dip tube as a feature of a fermenter to leave the trub behind.
I guess the solution in this case is to use a lid on the corny that has a liquid post where the Floatit can be attached, and leave the existing rigid dip tube in place.
Makes sense that the Flotit would get clogged from the inside if you're doing a closed transfer from fermenter to keg (that has the floating diptube). Two simple solutions would be....
1) Serve out of the keg you fermented in. This way no transfers are needed and no clogged floating dip tube. You'd be pulling clear beer from the getgo.
2) Transfer from fermenter/keg w/ floating diptube to a keg with the beer out long diptube in it. Then you should be transferring clear beer from the getgo.
Another option would be to add a 3rd post to your keg's lid that would be your dedicated beer out only line. This would have your floating dip tube attached to it. Then you could transfer through the standard beer out post (with the long stainless diptube)of the serving keg. I like #1 best because less steps and less things to break apart and clean when the keg kicks.
1) Serve out of the keg you fermented in. This way no transfers are needed and no clogged floating dip tube. You'd be pulling clear beer from the getgo.
2) Transfer from fermenter/keg w/ floating diptube to a keg with the beer out long diptube in it. Then you should be transferring clear beer from the getgo.
Another option would be to add a 3rd post to your keg's lid that would be your dedicated beer out only line. This would have your floating dip tube attached to it. Then you could transfer through the standard beer out post (with the long stainless diptube)of the serving keg. I like #1 best because less steps and less things to break apart and clean when the keg kicks.
We do not get the Floatit in Australia but have any of you guys compared it to our product here:
https://www.kegland.com.au/fermzilla-ss-ball-float-80cm-silicone-dip-tube-and-filter-kit.html
It looks like the Floatit is significantly more expensive and I am wondering if it's worth the additional cost.
https://www.kegland.com.au/fermzilla-ss-ball-float-80cm-silicone-dip-tube-and-filter-kit.html
It looks like the Floatit is significantly more expensive and I am wondering if it's worth the additional cost.
I have one like you posted. It works just fine. No complaiints. I can't see an advantage of the Floatit to justify it.. Maybe others can comment on that.
My initial observance of the Floatit is that the Floatit tube isn't positioned below the float, but on the same axis. This would be fine when there is enough beer to make it float vertically.. but towards the end.. it seems like the tube would begin sucking air as the float and tube rotate.
I have The Flotit and the inlet of the filter is purposefully off center so it stays submerged. It has two types of stainless micron filters too (300 and 500 micron?). It is more expensive that yours but one thing I like over it vs the Kegland/Torpedo floating diptubes is it's easier to install. You can install the silicone tubing over the short diptube, and slide the whole thing through the post, then pull the other end up to connect the filter. That might be worth it for those who like to do a deeper cleaning of their kegs.
I have the Torpedo floating dip tube for one of my kegs and the end filter for it and my All Rounder. I don't know if you make the Torpedo floating diptubes and/or the add on filters, but they look to have a single filter on them instead of the double filter the Flotit has.
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Thanks i believe that will get it cheers
The Clear Beer units are the Cadillac, but they cost quite a bit. If you want a cheaper model that works great, go with https://ballandkeg.com/products/balls-up-floating-dip-tube
I've used theirs for years and not ever had to add weight like the other cheap units. Theirs have a heavier piece of stainless steel tubing in the end that keeps it submerged all the time.
I've used theirs for years and not ever had to add weight like the other cheap units. Theirs have a heavier piece of stainless steel tubing in the end that keeps it submerged all the time.
Not trying to start an argument, but I have both the clear beer with the filter screen and the Flotit. The Flotit wins for me regarding transfer from fermenter to keg, or fermenting and serving from the keg. Especially with hoppy ales. I’ve had a few clogs with the clear beer, but the Flotit just keeps going. It’s a wonderful, simple design.
My only gripe would be the gaskets on the outside of the Flotit can be difficult to put on at times, but once they’re on you shouldn’t have any issues.
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that one does look good
I have the Flotit on my big keg and agree about the filter gaskets. I have the Torpedo Buoy on two of my 5 gallon kegs. They also have the single stage filter that I also added to my All Rounder (the plastic barrel looking one with 3 adjustments on it). Are the Torpedo Buoys the same as the Clear Beer?
Reviving this. Using this floating dip tube for the first time and getting 75% foam, 25% beer (wcipa), from the faucet. First tested it in water and it seemed to stay below the waterline, but it seems to be pulling CO2 with the beer causing lots of foam. Beer line length is correct. Regulator set to 12psi. Other beers in the keezer are pouring fine. I've swapped QD's just to rule them out. Also pulled and cleaned the faucet since I did have a small hop particle in my first pour and I wanted to rule out anything in the faucet obstructing the beer. Faucet looked fine though. Tough to drink a beer when it takes 10 minutes or more to get a full pour. 
Any recommendations short of opening the keg and adding weight to the FDT line? Obviously not ideal with a heavily hopped ipa.
Any recommendations short of opening the keg and adding weight to the FDT line? Obviously not ideal with a heavily hopped ipa.
Yeah, add weight and ruin the beer...or.....drink a couple ounces at a time, (kind of like watering your plants with ice cubes)
Thanks for the link. I'd looked for something like that but must have missed it.
Thanks for the link. I'd looked for something like that but must have missed it.
You could try gently shaking/swirling the keg to see if it helps the end of the tube fall back below the beer line.
I've had several kegs that sucked CO2 into the tube. the only thing that solves it is a weight on the line.
part of the problem is that the silicone tube has a memory effect...It likes to straighten out. Thus it tends to push against the side of the keg. friction helps to hold it to the keg side and the silicone has grip as well. As the beer level drops, the hose doesn't always drop with the beer level...and then CO2 gets into the hose and then floats the tube which adds to the problem.
part of the problem is that the silicone tube has a memory effect...It likes to straighten out. Thus it tends to push against the side of the keg. friction helps to hold it to the keg side and the silicone has grip as well. As the beer level drops, the hose doesn't always drop with the beer level...and then CO2 gets into the hose and then floats the tube which adds to the problem.
From my experience if you have the dip tube too high it will start to suck air. The floating dip tubes have three different height settings on them. Which one are you using here:
I have also seen some customer who want it to go even deeper just use another stainless ring and extend the chain slightly and this will make it go even deeper.
Also did you have the issue in your keg or fermenter? If it was in a fermenter and you are using quite a lot of hops usually the hops sit ontop of the fermenter for a few days after dry hopping. Depending on the amount of hops you add you will have to set the dip tube to go deeper.
At the end of the day it's a bit of a trade off. The deeper you go the less clear the beer will be. The higher you go the more risk of sucking air. With that said it's easy to adjust.
Not sure if you meant this for the OP or me. I resurrected this thread mainly to see if there might be any way of saving this ipa. At any rate, I fermented in a corny keg with a shortened dip tube and pressure transferred to a second keg containing dry hops and the referenced floating dip tube. The second keg was purged with fermentation CO2.
I did notice the three positions for the floating dip tube. But it's the first time using this one and I don't recall where it was initially set (I didn't change it). Prior to using it I cleaned it and dropped it in some sanitizer and it seemed to stay under the water level. I've tried bumping the keg, and even slightly tilting it, but to no avail. I'll keep messing with it and slow pouring it for now. But at some point I may end opening it up and swap it out, then drink it quickly until oxidation leads me to dump it if I can't finish it. Not sure of a better option at this point.
To be honest with you I have never really liked fermentation in corny keg as they:
1. Are a bit more tricky to get your hand in and clean
2. It's difficult to see what is going in stainless steel vessels so if you have a lot of floating hop material or the dip tube is tabgled on a hop bomb it's impossible to troubleshoot.
3. The volume is not super convenient and for a standard batch you dont have suffieient head space.
Have you concidered just the FermZilla all rounder. This is also what the floating dip tube was more designed for.
I know with my FermZilla if I add any dry hops in the fermenter this floats to the top for about 1-2 days and then if I shake the fermzilla vigerously it breaks up this hop cake and the hops sink to the bottom and this reduces the chance of fowling up the dip tube filter. So I would give it a really vigerous rock back and forth if you suspect this is the issue.
Also with respect to blockages you may also want to check your poppet. These are a common blockage area. The filter will generally prevent this but it's worth knowing just incase. If you ever get a blocked popet then try opening the flow of liquid on the tap (or whatever your ball lock disconnect is connected to and quickly connect and disconnect the ball lock disconnect so the post goes up and down many times. This can dislodge solid materials from the poppet spring.
