With either the March or Chugger pumps, I'd advise going with the stainless head (you can interchange them, I have Chugger heads on my March pumps) with the inlet pointing out (straight), not down. Makes for easier priming of the pump, among other things.
I started off with a single pump. I installed two into my brew stand. I already had them (bought over several years ago) so it was a 'no brainer' to just use both. As day_tripper mentioned, you could get away with just one pump and then decide if you want/need to add another. Since mine are mounted to the stand, it made a lot of sense to use both. Less tubing lengths to get the liquids moved between vessels.
I also mount my plate chiller between the two pumps. I cannot say enough good things about the plate chiller I have (also bought several years back from Duda Diesel). It chills my wort FAST. Far faster than I could ever do with an immersion chiller. Even the one I made with 50 feet of copper tubing. Since you're in AL, I'm going to assume you do something to chill down the water going into you IC in order to get the wort chilled within a reasonable time frame. For reference (with ground/well water in NH) I can chill just over 7 gallons of wort from boil to below pitch temp (I usually target 60F) in about 8 minutes. Larger batches take a bit more time. I often have to reduce the water into the chiller in the final couple of minutes. That's so that I don't go below 60F into fermenter.
BTW, if you do go for two pumps, you can do more complicated things. Such as recirculating your mash through a HERMS coil (in your HLT) while also recirculating the water in the HLT to keep it the same temperature throughout.
For QD's, I started with the ball lock type early on. Moved to the cam lock type for some time (was convinced they were "the best") and recently switched back to the ball lock type. Since I had bought the cam lock from different sellers, over several years, I was having major trouble getting both arms to secure them to the fittings. I finally had enough and went back to the ball lock style. I've obtained replacement o-rings for the female fittings that have old o-rings and will change those out before next brew day.
One item I would advise, no matter which QD you go with. Get oetiker clamps. IME, worm clamps SUCK BALLS! I tried using those early on and could never get them to seal 100%. Most evident on CO2 (for kegging) lines. When it came time for the silicone tubing, I simply went with those too. Yes, they are a 'one shot' item and you have to cut them off if you need to redo things. But they won't fail on you like a worm clamp will. Plus, worm clamps can skip and simply NOT tighten past a point. I picked up a ratcheting clamping tool for the oetiker clamps several years back. As well as the standard type. Most of the time I use the ratcheting tool to secure the clamps, and the non-ratcheting to remove them. Also, make sure you get the stainless steel clamps. They are easy to get from either HBS (online at least), Amazon and McMaster. I've bought from all three. McMaster has the widest range of options out there (as expected) so just know what size you're looking for (they're stamped the size on them). Or look at the clamping range of each one and pick accordingly.
When I did the gas, and liquid, lines for my new keezer, I used all oetiker clamps for everything. Zero issues/leaks at those points. I only had to make sure all the swivel nuts were tightened to the proper level. Which is the same no matter what clamps you use.
