• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

first IPA advice

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

cowboy3829

Active Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2017
Messages
39
Reaction score
2
So I'm going to try and make my first IPA, I want it to be a little on the lighter side than recipes I've read. So here goes nothing... any advice or thoughts are appreciated

7 lbs extra light DME
8oz crystal 60 steeping
8oz crystal 120 steeping
1oz Mosaic hops 60 mins
.5oz Mosaic 30 mins
1oz Cascade 15 mins
1oz brewers gold 5 mins?
.5oz Mosaic flame out

safale 05? or 04? thats what I currently have
 
Gypsum. Water is everything. And no need to use mosaic before 30. Columbus or chinook for bittering at half the cost.
 
if I already have 2oz of mosaic would it be ok to use it at 60?
and I have gypsum as well, would irish moss be good to use as well?
 
So I'm going to try and make my first IPA, I want it to be a little on the lighter side than recipes I've read. So here goes nothing... any advice or thoughts are appreciated

7 lbs extra light DME
8oz crystal 60 steeping
8oz crystal 120 steeping
1oz Mosaic hops 60 mins
.5oz Mosaic 30 mins
1oz Cascade 15 mins
1oz brewers gold 5 mins?
.5oz Mosaic flame out

safale 05? or 04? thats what I currently have

Crystal 120L is pretty strong and raisiny. If you want something lighter, I'd leave that out and go with a lighter crystal, like 20L instead.

I'd change up the hopping slightly- and go all Mosaic or mosaic/cascade but leave out the brewer's gold since it doesn't fit there. I'd all but the bittering hops late in the boil.

More like:
.75 ounce mosaic 60 minutes
1 ounce cascade 5 minutes
1 ounce mosaic flameout/whirlpool
dryhop with mosaic and cascade
 
if I already have 2oz of mosaic would it be ok to use it at 60?
and I have gypsum as well, would irish moss be good to use as well?

Yes to the Irish moss at 15 minutes, but no to gypsum.

Unless you know your water, that is. If you're using tap water or water where you don't know the make up, don't add anything to it. A good example would be if you asked "I have chicken soup. Should I add salt?" because I don't know how much salt is already IN the soup. The same is true of water and brewing salts. With my tap water, higher in sulfate, adding gypsum may destroy the beer. With yours, maybe or maybe not. If you are starting with distilled or reverse osmosis water- use add a bit (a teaspoon or less) to the boil. But otherwise, no, don't do that.
 
Yeah, I was wondering about the brewers gold, thats why I had the ? mark in there
 
Thanks for all of the advice so far, I'm hoping to brew this tomorrow afternoon, so the more the merrier
 
so i tried punching this into beersmith..a great investment for your pc or iOS device. my recommendation is below
6 lb extra light DME
4 oz crystal 20L
5 oz crystal 40L
2 oz cascade 60 min
1 oz mosaic 5 min
1 oz mosaic flameout/whirlpool
chill to well below 70F (very important), shake to aerate, then pitch s-05
2 oz mosaic dryhop

stats:
1.055 OG, 1.009 FG (6 % ABV)...beersmith seems to be thinking you're mashing even if you're just steeping at 152F for color...i'd really predict if you add the DME at the beginning, you'll get some color darkening as well and it tends to make the yeast not finish quite as strongly... i'd bet the FG will be closer to 1.012

beersmith predicted color : 5.2 SRM...again, i bet it'll be closer to 6 with the DME darkening

beersmith IBU bitterness: 40 IBUs...should be fairly sessionable single IPA
 
Forget the Irish moss.

It "supposed" to help with dropping out the cold break and then you rack off the top of the cold leaving the cold break and a lot of beer in the pot. Some say it does nothing anyway.

Completely forget about the cold break and suck up every single drop out of the pot. It does ABSOLUTLEY no harm in the fermenter and drops out with the yeast/hops. Some say it even helps having the cold break/proteins in the fermenter.
 
Got it done, and in the closet. Started bubbling the airlock in about 5 hours

20170429_235008.jpg
 
Got it done, and in the closet. Started bubbling the airlock in about 5 hours

Looks good except for one item. Ales ferment out quickly when the fermenter is in a warm place but the yeast will warm the beer as they ferment and unless something is done to control the temperature the yeast will create some interesting compounds. These compounds will not be the most pleasant to the palate. We'll call them esters and fusel alcohol.

When I ferment my ales I chill the wort to the low 60's F. and try to keep the fermenting beer in that range. The lower temperatures slow the growth of the yeast so that I often have 12 to 20 hours before the airlock comes to life. That lower temperature also slows the yeasts digestion so it takes longer for them to eat all the sugars but they produce little in the ester department and undetectable amounts of fusel alcohol which ends up with beer that is more pleasant to drink.
 
Did you use 05 or 04? I hope 05. Generally with dry yeast I use 05 for hop-based beers and 04 for non.
 
I would use the US-05 yeast for this beer. Neutral yeast and attenuates very well.

edit: This is a little late. Didn't notice page 2.
 
I did use the us-05, and my house stays cold so that closet is always the coldest place in the house, around 60-65 all year. Thats why I chose it for my beer closet
 
just bottled this last night, took out a sample for fg, ended at 1.014, right at 7%. tasted the sample and was excellent already, I can't wait to try the first one after a week in the bottles.
 
It came out surprisingly well, 7%abv. I'm not normally an IPA fan but this is a good beer. Its initial flavor is citrusy and it has a slight fruity aftertaste. I'll definitely make this again
 
Back
Top