First closed transfer with my Anvil Fermentor and 7oz of dry hops

[ryanj]

I've only fermented two batches in my Anvil Fermentor. The first one had a 2oz dry hop and wound up clogging the dip tube. I was pretty surprised considering I kept my dip tube horizontal during fermentation and cold crashed for 24 hours. I wound up resorting to my auto siphon and finished the job off nicely.

This Friday I'm brewing a NEIPA with a total of 7oz of dry hops, and this will also be my first closed transfer attempt. I'm getting a little nervous and want to make sure I don't run into the same problem.

Any tips to avoid a clogged dip tube? Longer crash time?

 

[MrPowers]

Longer crash time (I would do at least 3 days), and remove the poppets from the QD and keg out post. Just take them out before you start the transfer because it will save you a lot of headaches.

 

[ryanj]

Longer crash time (I would do at least 3 days), and remove the poppets from the QD and keg out post. Just take them out before you start the transfer because it will save you a lot of headaches.

Interesting... but then when i need to put the poppets back in, wouldn't that introduce oxygen to the keg and defeat the whole point of a closed transfer?

Obviously I purge every keg after i fill it, but still...

 

[MrPowers]

Yes, it does allow a tiny amount of oxygen in, but I haven't noticed any detrimental effects doing this if you thoroughly purge the keg after filling. I've had to do it for every NEIPA I've made because hops always plug up my transfers.

 

[couchsending]

Never used an Anvil but you can rotate the racking arm I would assume. You shouldn't need to cold crash for an extended period of time although it doesn't hurt. However if you are cold crashing it's always best to do it under some positive head pressure so if you can attach Co2 safely to the anvil while it's crashing Id recommend it.

You also shouldn't need to pull the poppets. If you turn the racking arm vertical, open it up and clear as much of the settled trub/yeast/hops as possible before attaching your transfer line.

What's your process for purging the keg? Are you purging the transfer line as well.

I've put 12oz of DH in 6 gallons before and not had clogged poppets. Might take you a little while to get it totally dialed but it's not
that hard.

 

[ryanj]

Never used an Anvil but you can rotate the racking arm I would assume. You shouldn't need to cold crash for an extended period of time although it doesn't hurt. However if you are cold crashing it's always best to do it under some positive head pressure so if you can attach Co2 safely to the anvil while it's crashing Id recommend it.

You also shouldn't need to pull the poppets. If you turn the racking arm vertical, open it up and clear as much of the settled trub/yeast/hops as possible before attaching your transfer line.

What's your process for purging the keg? Are you purging the transfer line as well.

I've put 12oz of DH in 6 gallons before and not had clogged poppets. Might take you a little while to get it totally dialed but it's not
that hard.

Yes -- the Anvil has a rotating arm.

I've never done a closed transfer before, so this is going to be my first time. I did a little research and found a workflow that actually makes sense. I use a co2 harvester, so when I cold crash, it sucks the co2 back into the headspace of the fermentor. When I sanitize my keg, I'll fill it with co2, purge the o2 and then dispense the sanitizer out of the beverage post. From there, I plan to connect the keg gas post to the gas post on my fermentor lid which should equalize the co2 in the headspace of both vessels. Next, connect a simple 1/2" hose from the Anvil barb to a QD on the beverage post and then gravity feed the beer. I've heard and seen several people do this successfully and it doesn't require the use of any additional co2.

I honestly think my 2oz dry hop clogging the diptube may have been a fluke. It was my first time using the Anvil and the barb on the output is slightly smaller than a standard 1/2" barb so the hose I was using leaked a little air into it which may have caused a siphon issue. I've resolved all of that now so maybe I should just be positive and see how it goes.

WORST comes to worst, I can always auto siphon the contents to the keg.

 

[brew703]

If you are going to cold crash, you need one of these to prevent suckback. https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ccguardianv2.htm

I ordered an Anvil, received it last week but it's going back due to some manufacturer issues. They are supposed to send out another.

I don't really see a need to do a pressure transfer since there is a spigot. Introducing Co2 into the headspace may not be a bad idea but I don't think you would need to use CO2 to do transfers. Maybe I'm wrong but I wasn't planning on doing pressure transfers with the Anvil.

 

[ryanj]

If you are going to cold crash, you need one of these to prevent suckback. https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ccguardianv2.htm

I built a DIY co2 harvester with 2 mason jars. Worked great on my last batch.

 

[brew703]

I built a DIY co2 harvester with 2 mason jars. Worked great on my last batch.

I believe I saw your post. I did a DIY like the one I linked using a mylar balloon. Worked great with the Brut IPA I brewed. Guess there are several ways to go about solving suck back.

I believe I will dry hop using a bag. Maybe that will eliminate the issue of clogging the dip tube or valve.

 

[ryanj]

I believe I saw your post. I did a DIY like the one I linked using a mylar balloon. Worked great with the Brut IPA I brewed. Guess there are several ways to go about solving suck back.

I believe I will dry hop using a bag. Maybe that will eliminate the issue of clogging the dip tube or valve.

I'm really hoping that the "clog" I had was a fluke so I'm just to go for it with this next 7oz dry hopped NEIPA. I started thinking about how I could rig up a bag or series of bags and all the while not have them mess with my Tilt hydrometer. I'm just going to go all in on the free floating hops and hope for the best.

 

[brew703]

I'm really hoping that the "clog" I had was a fluke so I'm just to go for it with this next 7oz dry hopped NEIPA. I started thinking about how I could rig up a bag or series of bags and all the while not have them mess with my Tilt hydrometer. I'm just going to go all in on the free floating hops and hope for the best.

You may be able to take part of a paint strainer bag and attach it to the end of the dip tube. Will probably help with allowing any trub or hop material from entering the tube which may help. I've done that with my SS racking cane I use when I ferment in my carboy and it's helped with clogs.

 

[WBB]

I dry hopped in my anvil and no clogs. Used 2oz for first dh and 2oz for second. Each time, I used cheese cloth (didn’t have muslin or similar type bags) and cut the squares of cloth to handle at least double the size of the amount of hops if you know what I mean, to handle expansion. No issues with transfer.

 

[ryanj]

I dry hopped in my anvil and no clogs. Used 2oz for first dh and 2oz for second. Each time, I used cheese cloth (didn’t have muslin or similar type bags) and cut the squares of cloth to handle at least double the size of the amount of hops if you know what I mean, to handle expansion. No issues with transfer.

Curious...did you just wrap each dry hop in cheesecloth and just toss it in? It didn't come unwrapped?

 

[WBB]

Yes, each dry hop was wrapped in each own cheese cloth square and just tossed in. I’d have to say the square of cheese cloth was maybe 8 inches by 8 inches, enough to handle expansion. I got the natural non bleached cheese cloth and also butchers twine. The stuff used for baking etc.. Put the hops in the center of the cloth, wrapped it like a pouch and tied it off. The cheese cloth and twine was soaked in star San separately prior. When I was done transferring the pouches were at the bottom all swelled up. But I had no issues with clogs. And they never broke loose, untied.

 

[doogie]

I've only fermented two batches in my Anvil Fermentor. The first one had a 2oz dry hop and wound up clogging the dip tube. I was pretty surprised considering I kept my dip tube horizontal during fermentation and cold crashed for 24 hours. I wound up resorting to my auto siphon and finished the job off nicely.

This Friday I'm brewing a NEIPA with a total of 7oz of dry hops, and this will also be my first closed transfer attempt. I'm getting a little nervous and want to make sure I don't run into the same problem.

Any tips to avoid a clogged dip tube? Longer crash time?

So how are you dry hopping and transferring with the Anvil fermenter 2 years later? I have not had issues with hopping up to 4 ounces, but my last beer I went up to 6 oz and had to blow CO2 in the spigot to get things flowing, followed by several removals of the poppet to clear out hops when I finally tapped the keg.

 

[ryanj]

So how are you dry hopping and transferring with the Anvil fermenter 2 years later? I have not had issues with hopping up to 4 ounces, but my last beer I went up to 6 oz and had to blow CO2 in the spigot to get things flowing, followed by several removals of the poppet to clear out hops when I finally tapped the keg.

No problems at all. The amount of hops isn't that important as long as you do a proper cold crash. I crash for 2-3 days before I try to transfer and haven't had any clogs. The one thing that's really boosted my confidence is I got one of those inline filters. I drop the whole in starsan before. It works really well to avoid bit and pieces from flowing into that narrow QD fitting.

 

[doogie]

No problems at all. The amount of hops isn't that important as long as you do a proper cold crash. I crash for 2-3 days before I try to transfer and haven't had any clogs. The one thing that's really boosted my confidence is I got one of those inline filters. I drop the whole in starsan before. It works really well to avoid bit and pieces from flowing into that narrow QD fitting.

So you are still dry hopping loose? I don't have an inline filter. I had good luck with starting my transfer and watching the hose while I rotate until I start to pick up some crud and back off, but this last time it was not flowing at all. I have been cold crashing before dry hopping (that has helped a lot with the aroma), I guess I need to cold crash a second time after my dry hop.
Thanks for your insight.

 

[ryanj]

Yep. I dry hop loose. It's really not a problem at all, but you have to give the hops plenty of time to drop out. Once they're on the bottom of the fermenter you're fine. This is the filter I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CH29IK2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's good to avoid little bits from clogging up those narrow QD fittings. Cheap insurance.

 

[shoreman]

My advice would be to get one of these and just dry hop in the serving keg 842386 - Keg/Bucket Dry Hopper

Advice taken and applied from Scott Janish and and JC from Trillium.

use flameout hops at 180degrees and just dry hop in the keg - so much easier and no issues.

 

[doogie]

My advice would be to get one of these and just dry hop in the serving keg 842386 - Keg/Bucket Dry Hopper

Advice taken and applied from Scott Janish and and JC from Trillium.

use flameout hops at 180degrees and just dry hop in the keg - so much easier and no issues.

I have 2 of those (one smaller than the other) and there is no comparison on the aroma. The free floating hops in the fermenter (after cold crashing) produce MUCH better aroma. Also after about 3 ounces those get really compressed with hops when they expand in the beer (probably part of the issue with low aroma/ounce). They are fine for small charges, but for the amount of hops needed for my NEIPAs they just don't cut it.

 

[shoreman]

I have 2 of those (one smaller than the other) and there is no comparison on the aroma. The free floating hops in the fermenter (after cold crashing) produce MUCH better aroma. Also after about 3 ounces those get really compressed with hops when they expand in the beer (probably part of the issue with low aroma/ounce). They are fine for small charges, but for the amount of hops needed for my NEIPAs they just don't cut it.

I use these in 2.5 gallon kegs, no complaints and can fit more than enough hops for that size batch in a NEIPA. For sure you can get more aroma off of free floating but the PITA of closed transfers and clogs is not worth it IMO.

You could also build one of these around your dip tube http://scottjanish.com/my-favorite-way-to-dry-hop-loose-in-primary-and-kegs/

 

[Nagorg]

Digging up bones here... But I have my first batch in my new Anvil bucket right now. And I have a 6oz dry hop to do and am contemplating bagging them -vs- commando.
Can you confirm no probs loose as longas you cold crash? Did you also try rotating the racking arm up to help?

 

[ryanj]

Digging up bones here... But I have my first batch in my new Anvil bucket right now. And I have a 6oz dry hop to do and am contemplating bagging them -vs- commando.
Can you confirm no probs loose as longas you cold crash? Did you also try rotating the racking arm up to help?

Just kegged a batch last night with 6oz of DDH just thrown in. I kept the dip tube at 3:00, cold crashed for 2 full days, used an inline filter, and maybe rotated the pickup tube to 4:00 at the most. No problems. No clogs. Can't wait to sample in a day or two.

 

[Nagorg]

Excellent update... Thanks @ryanj . Sounds like I'm going to go that route. I'm trying to source a BouncerMD to put inline between the Anvil and my keg too.

I'll bet your beer will be awesome!

 

[Nagorg]

6 ounces in the hole....

 

[CascadesBrewer]

I'm trying to source a BouncerMD to put inline between the Anvil and my keg too.

VacMotion is another source of filters. I picked mine up on Amazon but I have not seen them there in a while. They have a large selection of options on their website, with decent prices (even after you pay for shipping). Mine is the "Mini" size, which is the standard Bouncer size. The "Regular" size is pretty big, and the "Large" is even bigger.
https://www.vacmotion.com/Products/Main_Inlinestrainers.aspx
I believe this is the exact set of options for the one I have: VacMotion product: PLS-M38B-NCE-020 - 3/8 Barb MINI strainer. Nylon top, Clear bowl, EPDM gasket, 20 mesh SS element

The "20 mesh" screen seems to do fine for filtering out stray pieces of hops. I would be curious to try one a little finer, or run two inline. Also, I am almost positive that VacMotion and Bouncer are just resellers of the same filters made by Ron-Vik, Inc specializes in the design and manufacture of products which combine wire or synthetic mesh with thermoplastics or plastisols..

 

[ryanj]

Excellent update... Thanks @ryanj . Sounds like I'm going to go that route. I'm trying to source a BouncerMD to put inline between the Anvil and my keg too.

I'll bet your beer will be awesome!

Learned a good lesson on this batch - always dry hop with the freshest possible hops.

6oz of whirlpool + 6oz of dry hops from older (2018-2019 harvest) hops results in some pretty powerful hop burn. Never experienced this before but wanted to use up some old hops I had sealed in the freezer. I won't be using older hops on the cold side anymore...

 

[Nagorg]

Yeah, I always try to dry hop with the fresher ones. I'll be starting my cold crash tomorrow evening and kegging this weekend.

Cant wait to try this beer, the samples have smelled and tasted pretty awesome.

 

[couchsending]

Hop Burn has nothing to do with how old the hops are. It can happen with hops that are incredibly fresh as well. Hop burn is caused by polyphenols in suspension. Hops higher in polyphenols and beers where you’ve done a bunch to try to keep them in suspension (high percentage of wheat and oats) as well as dry hopping warm can and will contribute to hop burn.

Colder dry hops, a more barley focused malt bill when you are using high polyphenol hops, longer conditions times, will all help mitigate the burn.

That being said you should always use the freshest hops possible for dry hopping. If you open the bag and it doesn’t smell great, don’t use it! Save it for the kettle or toss it.

 

[Nagorg]

First free-floating dry hop in the books. While the greatest majority of the hops sunk during the cold-crash and stayed in the fermenter during the transfer to keg, my Bouncer proved to be a solid addition to my transfer setup.