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DanzigsMISFITS

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Ok if I am breaking a rule or something go ahead and remove.

Just finished my first extract kit of True Brew 5 gal IPA.
I spent 30-45 minutes sanitizing everything with Star San over the powdered stuff that came in the kit.

I boiled 1.5 gal of water then steeped the carmel malt brought back to boil and stired in malt liquid extract cans. I then stired in the hop packests at apropriate times.

I cooled it by adding 3.5 gallons of chilled water in the vessel in an Ice bath. All water was spring water.

Just transfered into fermenting carboy 6 gal. Via sterlized funnel/screen Pitched yeast and added airlocck and now is in closet....hope the rest goes well I will update.




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look like someone is going to drink home brew in a near future!

Hope so...I was really particular with cleaning every little thing that touched the wort. Carboy, airlock, spoon, gloves, pot...everything...hope it turns out ok if not I hope I dont get too discouraged. Ive read up for the past year and finally tried it...it is intimidating asking so I just read up.

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Also if someone reads this before fermentation ends. Can I dry hop this ipa? The kit came with two hop packets I used. Could I go down to the brew shop get some more pellets and drop them in after fermentation for a bit before siphoning into my bottling bucket?

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Yes! But give the hops some time - a week or so - between the hop drop and bottling to give the hops time to settle to the bottom of the fermentor. It's not unusual, in my experience, for the hops to cause CO2 to escape and appear to reawaken fermentation.
 
Yes! But give the hops some time - a week or so - between the hop drop and bottling to give the hops time to settle to the bottom of the fermentor. It's not unusual, in my experience, for the hops to cause CO2 to escape and appear to reawaken fermentation.

So I added the pilgram hop pellets 1 oz in the beginning after reboil after steeping. Then the gold hop pellets 1oz 2 minutes before cooling then steamed oak chips into fermenter before pitching yeast..... You have any suggestions on hops to dry hop with? And the ammount for my 5 gal batch method of introducing it to batch?

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Ok this is what I came up with...after fermentation slows or stops I am going to toss another .5-1 oz Chinook hop pellets and leave for a week then syphon into bottleing bucket for bottling. ???? This sound ok?

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Another concern of mine is my temo is 70-72 degrees (next time I will place carboy in rubbermade tote with water and ice) hope it doesnt ruin it...was able to get the carboy tgrough floor into crawlsapce....hope that stays cool enough

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70 degrees may not "ruin" an ipa, depending on the yeast. did you use s-05 or something else?
fruity esters may be great for the beer, but diacetyl may form so your beer needs to rest at about a month so the yeast can clean up the nasties. hope you dont get fusels.. you dont want that.

i made a DIPA that had a slight banana flavor that went away after bulk conditioning in secondary/bright tank for an additional month. the last week of conditioning a oz of centennial was added. it turned out ok. if i had that same recipe i would ferment it around 66 instead. look into a chest freezer and a temp controller. we are 138!
 
OK,adding the last bag of hops at 1 or 2 minutes left in the boil will be an aroma addition with little flavor. Do not dry hop till a stable FG is reached & it settles out clear or slightly misty. The hop oils will cling to settling yeast & trub & go to the bottom. 70-72F is a little bit high for ales. 65F would definitely be better.
And boiling the water for steeping isn't a good idea either. Steep temps should be 150F to about 165F for 30 minutes. You can even sparge them if you want more wort for the boil,rather than just adding water to get up to boil volume.
 
OK,adding the last bag of hops at 1 or 2 minutes left in the boil will be an aroma addition with little flavor. Do not dry hop till a stable FG is reached & it settles out clear or slightly misty. The hop oils will cling to settling yeast & trub & go to the bottom. 70-72F is a little bit high for ales. 65F would definitely be better.
And boiling the water for steeping isn't a good idea either. Steep temps should be 150F to about 165F for 30 minutes. You can even sparge them if you want more wort for the boil,rather than just adding water to get up to boil volume.

I turned off heat after boil to steep so it wasn't at boil when I steeped it... Would it be bad for me to get a rubbermaid tub and move the carboy into it ?

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Ok so its now in a small rubbermaid garbage can with some cold water ill keep an eye on the temp

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Here is where it sits now. Day 2 hope moving it carefully didn't mess it up.... bubbler has slowed down quite a bit...

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Got the temp down to 66-68

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Good temp range for an ale. For WL029 kolsh yeast as well. And even though you turned off the heat after boiling it,it'd still be too hot at the beginning of the steep. Always try to keep your steep temps in range.
 
Good temp range for an ale. For WL029 kolsh yeast as well. And even though you turned off the heat after boiling it,it'd still be too hot at the beginning of the steep. Always try to keep your steep temps in range.

Thank you the instructions didn't give a temp but a "turn off heat" I dont remember how hot it was.

Also after a very rapid violent fermentation within 7 hours of placing it in the carboy. Tgat continued through the night into day two. Later in day two say 30 hours post placing it in fermenter it slowed down...after placing it in the colder 68 deg climate the bubbler "pops" once every 30-46 seconds...did I mess things up..? 3 days seems early to be done I was going to check gravity in 6 day range and add dry hops.

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When the rapid bubbling slows or stops,only initial fermentation is done. It'll then slowly,uneventfully creep down to a stable FG. Then give it another 3-7 days to clean up any by-products of fermentation & settle out clear or slightly misty. Then package.
 
When the rapid bubbling slows or stops,only initial fermentation is done. It'll then slowly,uneventfully creep down to a stable FG. Then give it another 3-7 days to clean up any by-products of fermentation & settle out clear or slightly misty. Then package.

I was either going to 1. Rack to a 5 gal secondary carboy to dry hop leave fpr 5-7 days then rack to bottle bucket or 2: dry hop in primary wait 5-7 then bottle bucket....any suggestions?

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I'd just dry hop 1 week in secondary when it's at a stable FG & settled out clear or slightly misty.

Ok so this thursday or friday ill check it then rack to a 5 gal. Should I bag the hop pelets or throw them in whole?


Thanks again for the guidance. .

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70 degrees may not "ruin" an ipa, depending on the yeast. did you use s-05 or something else?
fruity esters may be great for the beer, but diacetyl may form so your beer needs to rest at about a month so the yeast can clean up the nasties. hope you dont get fusels.. you dont want that.

i made a DIPA that had a slight banana flavor that went away after bulk conditioning in secondary/bright tank for an additional month. the last week of conditioning a oz of centennial was added. it turned out ok. if i had that same recipe i would ferment it around 66 instead. look into a chest freezer and a temp controller. we are 138!

All chest freezers wouldn't allow me to keep it in the 65range just lower...any product recomendation .
 
Ok so this thursday or friday ill check it then rack to a 5 gal. Should I bag the hop pelets or throw them in whole?


Thanks again for the guidance. .

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I soak a muslin hop sock in Starsan,fill with no more than 1oz pellets,tie off & drop it in.
 
Fermentation has drascally slown down 1 airlock pop every 2 minutes or so...tgis is day 4. I will wait a full 7 use a wine theif and check it before racking it to secondary. I know you all have done this before just documenting my 1st time

Thanks for the help
 
DON'T. there is no reason to take it off the yeast. you have a month long window and for a beer like yours, just let it ride. 21 days in primary, then dry hop like unionrdr says and let it go for a total of 30 days. then, package.

*a stc 1000 is a cheap aquarium controller that works good for keeping temps in the range you need. i have my two keezers set to be within a half degree F variance. the controller only works in centigrade, but the F to C translation is a simple google search. you'll need 12 ga. wire strippers, a yellow or tan wire nut, and a small screwdriver. done.
 
DON'T. there is no reason to take it off the yeast. you have a month long window and for a beer like yours, just let it ride. 21 days in primary, then dry hop like unionrdr says and let it go for a total of 30 days. then, package.

*a stc 1000 is a cheap aquarium controller that works good for keeping temps in the range you need. i have my two keezers set to be within a half degree F variance. the controller only works in centigrade, but the F to C translation is a simple google search. you'll need 12 ga. wire strippers, a yellow or tan wire nut, and a small screwdriver. done.

Thank you I will wait.......
 
Thank you I will wait.......

There are numerous threads here as well as youtube videos on using a STC-1000 for a temp controller. You need a box, some outlets, wire and a few tools but nothing complicated. Just do a search for STC-1000. If you order one make sure it is the 110 volt version as there is a 220 volt version out there as well.
 
There are numerous threads here as well as youtube videos on using a STC-1000 for a temp controller. You need a box, some outlets, wire and a few tools but nothing complicated. Just do a search for STC-1000. If you order one make sure it is the 110 volt version as there is a 220 volt version out there as well.

Yes I just saw someone build one from a freezer and a controller
 
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