First all-grain, stuck fermentation

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phschimpf

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I have many extract brews under my belt and have always been happy with the quality. I have a couple all-grain brewer friends who have also commented that they would have thought my beers were all-grain if I hadn't told them I use extracts. But it did seem time to step up regardless, and it gave me a reason to take on the fun keggle conversion project. My first attempt has resulted in what appears to be a stuck fermentation, that won't unstick, so I could really use some advice from some experts. First, some notes, then my conjecture that I'd like to hear opinions on, along with choices that follow or other possibilities that anyone can think of.

1) This was a BIAB effort with a 9.8 lb grain bill (containing 9 lbs of Rahr 2-row pale, and the rest split between Briess Caramel 60L and Belgian Biscuit) and 75 min saccharin rest at 153-154 F (ish, see below).

2) The Wyeast 1056 American Ale arrived swollen, but the internal pouch (which I could barely feel) was intact. It lived in my fridge for about 3 weeks waiting for me to finish converting the keggle to 240V electric. Upon snapping the pouch it still swelled significantly within 3 hours. Fermentation started up nicely within 24 hours, but petered out after 2 days.

3) The 10 lbs of cracked grain (full recipe below) lived in my freezer for the same 3 weeks.

4) Upon reaching boil temp I realized that there were questions about the calibration of my thermometer, as it should have read about 208 (at my elevation) but was reading only about 198. However, when I cranked it up to read 208, I then later found that it read 10 degrees too high at room temp, which is just one reason I think the mash temp was probably OK(ish, see below). I have since calibrated it at 150 against a couple of other thermometers. Other reasons I believe my mash temp was OK(ish, see below) are that my OG came out reasonable, I ended up with 28.5 conversion points (77%), and the iodine didn't change color. I believe the thermometer problem arises from using a 2" stem with a T fitting for the sight glass, meaning that the end of the stem doesn't project through the wall (I stayed away from the 6" stem because of the bag, and my supplier had only the two choices - I've put a 3 7/8" stem on my Xmas list). On the other hand the pre-hop addition wort did taste kinda starchy to me, but it was also really cloudy with grist, which as an extract brewer I am not used to. And since the iodine said all was fine ...

5) My target OG was the lowest I've ever brewed at and came out a bit lower because I accidently started with 1 gal too much water. I gave it some extra boil time to get down to 5.7 gal or so (my original intent was 5).

6) The OG was 1.047. The stuck gravity is 1.027. Fermentation temp has been around 68F, but has likely cooled to low 60s in the middle of the night.
I gave it a package of Coopers dry Ale yeast and a teaspoon of stuck fermentation yeast energizer, but after 24 hours there is still no additional activity.

7) The attached pic shows that it is quite cloudy even after settling. The taste at the moment is actually OK, but I'd say it has way too much body (for a pale Ale), and does still taste yeasty like a hefeweizen (which is not a style I enjoy). My last dozen or so extract beers have used Coopers or Nottingham dry yeast, and in my experience they settle out quite rapidly when they're done fermenting. This is my first time using any Wyeast in many years, but it came with the recipe kit.

Here's my conjecture:
My thermometer was calibrated at room temp, but reading low as the temperature increased, off by about 10 deg at boil. If I assume that effect was linear, then my mash probably occurred around 158 or 159 instead of 153. From that conjecture I conclude that I ended up with a lot of unfermentable sugars.

If that is the case then it would seem my best option is to wait for this to settle out and just live with it if I can stand it. Call it a high body low ABV (about 3% right now) pale ale session beer. Do I even bother dry hopping it now?

Any other choices? I've already tried the Coopers. Should I try throwing in a champagne yeast or maybe a Turbo yeast? Heat up the fermentation?

cloudy.jpg
 
How long since you pitched the original yeast? (sorry if I missed it in your post)

I would let the Coopers ride for at least a week. I would hold off pitching a third yeast.
 
An eight degree temp swing is significant, could be putting the yeast into a sleep / wake mode.

Try swirling, and heating up the beer if you can (keg bucket, water, aquarium heater). Might get a few degrees that way.

If you mashed too high, there's not a recovery from that, unfermentables are unfermentable.
 
Try transferring to a secondary and keep the temp around 68°. See if by transferring won't kick up the fermentation again. You should see airlock activity within 24-30 hours. As to dryhopping, if you like hoppiness, then by all means add your dry hops after you see the fermentation kicking back in. A hoppy session pale ale is mighty good.

Good luck and keep us updated.
 
Too funny, I had the same experience as the OP: similar grain bill, technique & results. Almost identical gravity readings to boot. Except I just said, "oh well", dry hopped & kegged it. I'll chalk it up as a 5 gallon learning experience. One of many, I'm sure. Good luck, man.
 
Thanks for the responses guys. Been over 4 days since the Coopers and careful temp control with no observable activity. A clearer sample (significantly less suspension and sediment than you see in the sample above) has it at 1.024 now. I've racked it and will wait awhile longer, if for no reason other than obtaining some additional clarity. Put the dry hops in too. It'll be an, ahem, interesting beer, and has been a good learning experience. My conclusion is that my mash temp was too high. My advice to anyone reading this is to calibrate your thermometer around 150F (against either a good lab thermometer or a couple of other brew thermometers) and don't believe it if someone tells you it isn't a problem if your thermometer doesn't extend out of your sight glass T fitting into your pot. I think it is a problem, but I'm hoping a calibration at 150 will mitigate that (at least until my new thermometer arrives).
 
Temperature control is too critical to trust a simple probe screwed into the side of your keggle. There are plenty of lab quality units out there for $50 or so. That said, it sounds like you didn't make a starter either. What was your aeration technique? Yeast health is as big a factor as wort fermentability in final attenuation. It's hard to say whether your yeast quit early or there wasn't any more fermentable sugar. Perhaps it was a combination of both. ...
 
Thanks Demus, I think I just learned that about temp control the hard way. :)
I'm considering sending a complaint about the advice I received from my online vendor about that.
I know it's not the same thing for several reasons, but I've never had to make a starter with my extracts and have always had healthy fermentations that never take more than 4 or 5 days for my ales, so I hope I can be forgiven for trusting WYeast and not using a starter. My aeration technique is to do the transfer as splashy as I can, then cover the airlock hole with something sanitized and shake the hell out of my fermenter (which has about a gallon of extra air space). From the thermometer behavior at room and boil temps, and from the taste, I'm reasonably confident my problem is mostly about unfermentable sugars, but you're right, there certainly could be yeast factors as well. The next try will tell me more.
 
phschimpf said:
My aeration technique is to do the transfer as splashy as I can, then cover the airlock hole with something sanitized and shake the hell out of my fermenter (which has about a gallon of extra air space).

This could be part of the problem as well. A problem ferment could be many variables adding up to result in your issue, as opposed to one thing. Your aeration technique is not effective at getting 8 to 10 ppm dissolved oxygen into your wort. In your past brews other variables were probably favorable enough that you saw no ill effect. If you read "Yeast" (I highly recommend it) there's a study they did on aeration. 5 full minutes of shake and splash only resulted in 2.5 ppm oxygen or so. This won't always cause a problem, but you never really know when it will....
 
Thanks Demus, you've put me onto something that I hadn't considered. As an extract brewer I always topped off from the tap as well, but of course that isn't happening with a full volume BIAB. From poking around a just a bit in the forums I'm getting the impression that that might have been an important aeration effect for me in the past. Also seeing opinions that aeration / oxygenation is more important for liquid yeasts than dry. I'll order the Yeast book and do some more reading. Would rather not have to invest in an O2 setup so hoping that an air stone and pump, or whisk, or some other simple agitation method will be good enough for me. Any advice along these lines for my next all-grain try will be appreciated. Or to be more direct about it - how do you aerate / oxygenate?
 
I use oxygen. I understand not wanting to buy another gadget but for me it's about performance and convenience. If you use an air pump/stone setup there's still some cost, but not much increase in performance over shake/splash/pour methods. Plus the longer you aerate, the more foam you'll produce. 45 seconds of pure O2 has more affect than 10 minutes with an air pump. Air itself only has enough oxygen in it to get to 8ppm, which is the lower end of the ideal target. The only way to really be sure you're getting enough O2 into your wort is to use it, oxygen that is...
 
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