Finally...beginning my electric brewery

[nspaldi0]

Here's a photo of the wiring. Again, power is coming in from switch to contactor but the two hots going to the element outlet aren't reading anything. I don't hear the "klunk" when the element switch is pushed.

 

[AllanMar]

From your wire color choices to the contactor coil (white/black) it looks like your only supplying it 120V? You posted in your list above that you ordered a 240V coil contactor?

 

[nspaldi0]

I wired according to PJ's diagram. Coming into the coil are hot and neutral from the push button. 240 comes in via main power and off SSR.

 

[AllanMar]

Yea, but what contactor did you buy? (post the link). PJ's diagram is for a 120V coil contactor.

You may want to read this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/contactor-rumbling-noise-393851/

If you did buy the 240V coil, replace the neutral (white) wire from the contactor coil with a wire from the other leg (red) and it should work. You can read the debate about only switching one leg in the other thread.

 

[nspaldi0]

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=130

Here's the one I purchased.

 

[AllanMar]

Double check the sticker on the side says it is a 120V coil. If it is take a multi-meter set to resistance and check across the coil connections (disconnected).

EDIT: Should have said check you have 120V across the coil energized as well. If not, check resistance.

 

[nspaldi0]

Here's the diagram I used as well.

 

[nspaldi0]

I have 120V across the coil from the white neutral line from push button to black hot from push button. Sorry, I hope my explanations are ok. I'm not the most electrical savvy person.

 

[nspaldi0]

Also, I confirmed on side of contactor that it is a 120V coil.

 

[AllanMar]

Disconnect power to the panel disconnect the leads from the terminals on the contactor (white/black wire) set your multimeter to resistance (ohms) and measure on the contactor where the white/black connected (this is across the coil)

 

[nspaldi0]

I'm getting a reading of 1 across the coil. All power is disconnected by the way. If I take neutral and hot connections and put together and read with multimeter, 0 is read.

 

[nspaldi0]

If I put connections back on and measure across coil, I have a reading of 1.

 

[AllanMar]

I'm guessing your multimeter is not auto-ranging. A reading of 1 usually means you need to try a higher range setting. If your not sure how, post a pic of your meter.

Also, just want to confirm, when you took the voltage readings these were taken directly on the contactor? (ie not at the switch or terminal strip?)

 

[nspaldi0]

Voltages were taken directly at contactor (white and black) read 120V. Are you thinking I have wired incorrectly or bad contactor?

 

[AllanMar]

If you've got 120V at the contactor then it should be wired ok. If you can get a proper resistance reading thats usually a decent indication if the contactor is bad. Usually (not always) the coil will be high resistance on a U/S contactor. A good contactor will likely be around 200-300ohms

 

[nspaldi0]

Here's a shot of reading resistance. Multimeter set at 200K.

 

[nspaldi0]

And as a side note, everything else works great. PID, Pump and stir motor all function as they should. Just having issues with element.

 

[AllanMar]

Looks like that contactor is bad then.

Just to be safe, measure on the other two metal tabs of the contactor. Just in the very rare case you have a bad crimp on your connectors.

 

[nspaldi0]

Same reading. Bummer. Was hoping to brew this weekend but I'll just order a new contactor and see if that helps. I really appreciate your assistance. Cheers!

 

[AllanMar]

Sometimes you can find them locally. Look for places that sell HVAC parts (even some of the big box stores). Ask for a "120V coil Definite Purpose contactor" 30A+

 

[nspaldi0]

Replacement part came in today! I'm auto tuning! Feels great to finally have it up and running! I'm auto tuning and then will get ready tomorrow for its inaugural debut!

Still need to order panel tags but that can wait.

 

[nspaldi0]

Well - still having troubles. I began heating my water the other day and element started leaking. I was using the stock washer with the lament. I ordered the washer and oring ala Kal. Well, it's still leaking into the element housing. I soldered a locknut to my kettle and even with using oring and washer its still leaking. Any suggestions?

 

[AllanMar]

Is it possible your over tightening? With those there's no groove so if you over tighten the washer actually pushes out. I wouldn't think Kal's method is likely to work as well with a soldered locknut (although I have not tried), the stock washer should be enough as long as you don't overtighten and push the washer out. Any pics?