Filter suggestions?

[ol' rummie]

Can anyone suggest a good filter( one that doesn't clog up all the time) for beer, after fermentation (for 15 - 30 gal. range)?

 

[abracadabra]

Are you using a secondary? I am of the opinion that most brewers don't use filters because they are a waste of time and money.
At what point do you feel you need a filter and what are you trying to filter out?

 

[ajwillys]

I recently had a pro brewer tell me that the sole reason he goes from grain to glass in 14 days (versus the 6-8 weeks it takes us homebrewers) is because they filter. I have yet to verify this, but I've been dying to. If I could ferment for 10 days, filter to keg, and force carb for a couple days, I would be in heaven. According to this guy, that's exactly what he does when he homebrews at home also.

I wouldn't say its a waste of money at all if it works this well. More of a question of time vs. money.

 

[ol' rummie]

Speeding up the clarification time and batch turnover time, is the main reason I want to filter. (along with Irish moss and polyclar)
I am trying to get into commercial brewing, I have the better parts of a 3.5 & 5 bbl system, but want to start out smaller (15-31 gal) to create a test market so I have something to show the banks when asking for loans to start the etc.
That being said, I need a reliable product that can be produced on deadline, 10 - 14 days from grain to glass is my goal, but filtering is needed to achieve this.

 

[JVD_X]

Speeding up the clarification time and batch turnover time, is the main reason I want to filter. (along with Irish moss and polyclar)
I am trying to get into commercial brewing, I have the better parts of a 3.5 & 5 bbl system, but want to start out smaller (15-31 gal) to create a test market so I have something to show the banks when asking for loans to start the etc.
That being said, I need a reliable product that can be produced on deadline, 10 - 14 days from grain to glass is my goal, but filtering is needed to achieve this.

You can achieve the same thing using highly flocculant yeast - can't you?

 

[abracadabra]

OK so what I'd say is that you need to focus more on the plumping by building a system that you can back-flush.

Back-flushing is the process of forcing clean water thru the filter in the reverse direction of your filtration thereby cleaning the filter out.

Several filters may also be needed starting with the a sediment filter then moving toward whatever micron filtration you feel gives you the best results

Various whole house filters have interchangable filtration medium that you could test to see what level of filtration is exceptable.

As for AJWillys "pro brewer's" comment I'd say the sole reason home brewers take 6-8 weeks is green beer just isn't as good and most of us are after quality not speed.

 

[ajwillys]

As for AJWillys "pro brewer's" comment I'd say the sole reason home brewers take 6-8 weeks is green beer just isn't as good and most of us are after quality not speed.

He specifically said that alot of the green beer flavor is removed in the filtering process. I don't know how it works and whether its true or not, but I believe him. His beer is fantastic. Also, I have noticed that when I do extended cold crashing (32 degrees for a week plus) before racking, it seems to be ready (non-green) faster.

I definitely don't buy the notion that homebrewers wait 6-8 weeks because its the only way to get it ready to drink. I do believe its the only *easy* way to do it. Of course, this is a point that is off topic that I'm sure we could discuss forever.

 

[abracadabra]

He specifically said that alot of the green beer flavor is removed in the filtering process. I don't know how it works and whether its true or not, but I believe him. His beer is fantastic. Also, I have noticed that when I do extended cold crashing (32 degrees for a week plus) before racking, it seems to be ready (non-green) faster.

I definitely don't buy the notion that homebrewers wait 6-8 weeks because its the only way to get it ready to drink. I do believe its the only *easy* way to do it. Of course, this is a point that is off topic that I'm sure we could discuss forever.

You make an interesting point and I'd say that cold crashing for a week makes all the beers I've made better.

And I don't doubt that filtration may very well make green beer taste better.

My main concern is the fusal alcohols ( I think I spelled that right) which gives me a terrible headache and is the reason I can't drink BMC. Proper aging seems to eliminate this problem at least for me.

I'd love to hear other peoples take it

 

[david_42]

Back to the original question. Your best bet is a plate filter

If you use a coarse filter (2-7 micron), you shouldn't have too many problems with clogging. That is large enough to use with a small commercial system, but can be used between cornies and it's cheap enough to experiment with.

You might also consider a pre-filter screen, like the Buon Vino.

 

[abracadabra]

5 micron filter and housing

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100039183

5 micro replacement cartridge
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...Id=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100000266idge

build in a back flush and this puppy will last for 1000's of gal.

 

[lanvp]

Can anyone suggest a good filter( one that doesn't clog up all the time) for beer, after fermentation (for 15 - 30 gal. range)?

I got my filter system from Northern Brewer and it was very affordable. The replacement cartridges are about $3.25. The housing looks like a standard water filter housing. The filter really works!

Filter housing:
http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/cartridge-filter-housing.html

Filter cartridge:
http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/1-micron-pleated-sediment-cartridge-for-k130.html

Hope you find this info useful. :rockin:

 

[philrose]

He specifically said that alot of the green beer flavor is removed in the filtering process. I don't know how it works and whether its true or not, but I believe him. His beer is fantastic. Also, I have noticed that when I do extended cold crashing (32 degrees for a week plus) before racking, it seems to be ready (non-green) faster.

I definitely don't buy the notion that homebrewers wait 6-8 weeks because its the only way to get it ready to drink. I do believe its the only *easy* way to do it. Of course, this is a point that is off topic that I'm sure we could discuss forever.

Mike mcdole filters for quick drinkin iirc

 

[ClaudiusB]

david_42 wrote
Back to the original question. Your best bet is a plate filter

If you use a coarse filter (2-7 micron), you shouldn't have too many problems with clogging. That is large enough to use with a small commercial system, but can be used between cornies and it's cheap enough to experiment with.

I do filter all my beers, not to speed up the process.
I still age my beers 8 weeks, I am a lager brewer.
Now I know why I don't like many brewpub beers.
Modified plate filters.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

 

[doobliebop]

OK so what I'd say is that you need to focus more on the plumping by building a system that you can back-flush.

Back-flushing is the process of forcing clean water thru the filter in the reverse direction of your filtration thereby cleaning the filter out.

Several filters may also be needed starting with the a sediment filter then moving toward whatever micron filtration you feel gives you the best results

Various whole house filters have interchangable filtration medium that you could test to see what level of filtration is exceptable.

As for AJWillys "pro brewer's" comment I'd say the sole reason home brewers take 6-8 weeks is green beer just isn't as good and most of us are after quality not speed.

I'm thinking of building one of the systems with a water filter between two corny kegs. If I buy a washable filter, I should be able to take it out and rinse it off in star san. Can you think of any reason why back-flushing would be better than this method?