Fermentation Frusration

[Rhymenoceros]

On sunday I took an SG reading for a scottish ale I had (OG 1.063) it was 1.022, so I raised the temperature to 68-70 and stirred up a bit of yeast, and some bubbles appeared at the surface so I thought all would be well and good. To day I took a reading and it hasnt changed. Its been in the primary for 3 weeks now at a constant 66-68 degrees. WTF?

I only have like a 64% attenuation. WLP028, no starter, but I shook the hell out of the fermenter and poured the wort in there from a height to aerate.

My first batch (this is my second) had a FG of 1.019 which was probably a little high, but I didn't know any better so I bottled it and it was good. Should I just do the same here? any suggestions, because its frustrating.

 

[GAbrewer]

I'd let it go another day or two, check the reading again, and if it hasn't changed I'd bottle it and not worry about it. It might have a little lower ABV than you expected, but it will most likely still be good beer. But I'm still pretty new to this too, so you might want a second opinion.

 

[flyangler18]

I need a little more info to help.

All-grain or extract?
If AG, what was your mash temp?
If extract, what manufacturer? Some extracts are more fermentable than others.

 

[Rhymenoceros]

Extract heres the recipe:

7 lbs Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 84.75 %
8.0 oz Munich Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 6.05 %
4.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 3.03 %
4.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM) Grain 3.03 %
2.1 oz Peat Smoked Malt (2.8 SRM) Grain 1.57 %
2.1 oz Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 1.57 %
1.00 oz Goldings, East Kent [4.50 %] (60 min) Hops 16.1 IBU
1 Pkgs Edinburgh Ale (White Labs #WLP028) Yeast-Ale

As for the manufacturer , Im not sure. My LHBS buys in bulk and give it to me in a plian white tub.

I didn't add enough water when I topped off, the OG was supposed to be 10 points lower. I dont know what my actual volume is right now. The attenuation just seems low.

 

[david_42]

High residual malts are desirable in a Scottish ale. I'd say it's done. For an all-grain, that yeast might hit 70-75%, but your ok for extract.

 

[CiscoKid]

This is just my opinion, but I'm thinking that a single vile of WLP in a beer with that OG is underpitching. There was another post just the other day on here that aligned with my thinking on the subject:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f37/directly-pitchable-yeast-103928/index3.html#post1142773

 

[Rhymenoceros]

I know brewers who didn't even worry about aeration when they pitched yeast and made good beer, so I wasn't worried about under pitching. Maybe I'll make a starter next time, but I don't know. We'll see how my IPA turns out, I did the same process with it.

I think I'll just bottle it and hope for the best...

 

[flyangler18]

I won't belabor the point, but you definitely underpitched. At peak of freshness, an XL smack pack contains 100 billion cells.

To determine the proper number of cells to properly ferment 5 gallons of 1.063 wort using the industry standard of 1 million cells per ml per °Plato:

1,000,000 x 19,000 (approximate # of ml in 5 gallons) x 16 (OG/4) = 304 billion cells, over three times the amount of cells in your smackpack.

This underpitching combined with an extract recipe likely resulted in your underattenuation, although that might be quite nice in a Scottish ale.

I'd leave it for another day or two for your own peace of mind, then move to packaging.

Next time, make a starter. An absolute best practice whenever using liquid yeast.

Jason

 

[Rhymenoceros]

Thanks guys.

 

[CBBaron]

I know brewers who didn't even worry about aeration when they pitched yeast and made good beer, so I wasn't worried about under pitching. Maybe I'll make a starter next time, but I don't know. We'll see how my IPA turns out, I did the same process with it.

I think I'll just bottle it and hope for the best...

Those brewers are probably using dry yeast. An 11g dry yeast package has 2-3x the viable yeast cells of a Smackpack or WLP tube.
However given the style, your recipe and fermentation conditions, I'd say your done. It will be a nice full bodied Scottish Ale. Perfectly appropriate.

Craig

 

[McGarnigle]

Did you mini-mash this or just steep the grains?

 

[Rhymenoceros]

Did you mini-mash this or just steep the grains?

You know, I'm not sure. The directions with the kit said to put the grains in with cool water ant then bring it to almost a boil over the next 30-60 minutes. I put the grains in 2 gallons of water and kept it between 165 and 150 for 25 minutes or so. So I'm not sure which one I actually did, or if I was supposed to mini mash or what. I don't really know the difference between steeping and mini mash.

 

[McGarnigle]

Mashing (mini or otherwise) requires more diligent temperature controls than steeping but can add fermentables to your wort. Some grains won't produce fermentables regardless so there's no point in mashing (e.g., Crystal). But you had some stuff that could have been.

As a process, mashing is more like 155 for an hour followed by sparging. Steeping is more casual, sort of like you did. You didn't have a ton of grains, but had you mashed, you would have had fewer unfermentables. I don't know if that's more important than the yeast issue here.

 

[mahilly]

Rhymenoceros,
I have a Scottish ale that has been bottle conditioning for two weeks now. I did exactly what you did - didn't top off enough (4 gal instead of 5) and got almost identical OG and FG readings (and my OG was 10 above expected). I cracked one open tonight - it still needs to come of age, but it's good!

 

[Rhymenoceros]

Rhymenoceros,
I have a Scottish ale that has been bottle conditioning for two weeks now. I did exactly what you did - didn't top off enough (4 gal instead of 5) and got almost identical OG and FG readings (and my OG was 10 above expected). I cracked one open tonight - it still needs to come of age, but it's good!

Good to know. Thanks.