Fermentation can take 24 to 72 hrs to show visible signs.

[Orfy]

Yup leave it the two weeks as planned. By all means take a Gravity reading at a week if you can't or don't want to wait.

 

[NewBrew09]

I have read this whole thread and understand that it can take a while for the fermentation process to start. The problem I am having perplexes me as my carboy seems to be sucking the water out of my airlock. It has done this a few times and i am concerned of possible contamination. I have stopped using water for now and using vodka, but I put the airlock in the stopper empty then fill it with the vodka to avoid sucking it into the carboy after pushing the airlock into the stopper. I have no idea why it seems to keep sucking the liquid into the carboy. Any ideas?

Also for my fermentation problem. I am making a German Dunkel and the OG was slightly off. Recipie called for 1.050-1.054, and came up short with an OG of 1.042. I used a smack pack of Bavarian Lager yeast, but after 4 hours at room temp. the pack did not swell very much (maybe 25% of normal swelling). Should I wait another 24-48 hours before repitching, should I increase the temperature? Etc....

 

[eurc51]

This is good to hear and I have been given this advice before, but I'm still worried about the wheat beer I brewed yesterday. Fermentation for me has always started within 6 hours before, but I've also always done bigger beers. This time I'm worried because it was hot has hell yesterday and my normal process for cooling the wort wasn't very effective. So, I'm concerned that I pitched the yeast at too high a temperature. I used dry yeast and rehydrated about 1 hour before pitching. The wort wasn't as cool as I would have liked, but probably around 90 degrees (warmish to the touch). When is it time to repitch new yeast? Thanks, EU

Recipe:

Fermentables
4 lbs. Rahr White Wheat
4 lbs. Rahr 2-Row Pale

Boil Additions
1 oz. Willamette (60 min)
1 oz. Cascade (15 min)

Safale US-05. Optimum temperature: 59-75° F.

 

[nebben]

If the temperature of the wort is higher than ambient surrounding temperatures, and all other things being equal (yeasts aren't making CO2 yet), it will cause a vacuum inside when it cools, thus sucking the vodka back into the wort. Just keep putting the vodka into the airlock and eventually the yeast will kick the pressure back up and start the airlock bubbling.

 

[NewBrew09]

If the temperature of the wort is higher than ambient surrounding temperatures, and all other things being equal (yeasts aren't making CO2 yet), it will cause a vacuum inside when it cools, thus sucking the vodka back into the wort. Just keep putting the vodka into the airlock and eventually the yeast will kick the pressure back up and start the airlock bubbling.

The liquid i am almost positive is cooler than the ambient air temperature.

 

[Hang Glider]

Got a thermometer? The sticky backed kind?
When ambient air and wort are same temperature, this will stop happening, but somehow, wort is still warmer. (80F still feels cool to the hand...since the hand is warmer). At least you're using vodka - I was using StarSan in the airlock and watching THAT go back into the carboy.
Now, I'm very careful about cooling the wort to about 62-64 going into the fermenter.
The yeast startup is a bit slower, but now I'm never over temps and the beers have been tasting much better.

 

[eaglewwit]

Progress update: Pale ale LME, with lots of hops.

I just took a gravity measurement, it has been 6 days since pitching the yeast. The beer had good color and I tasted it too, still a little sweet. The gravity was 1.020, but o forgot to take on OG reading. Also I use the bucket with a spigot. After pouring some into the measuring tube it sucked some fluid in from the airlock. Guess I had a good seal. I took out the airlock and peered through the whole and did not see much krausen, just a light very thin layer of foam. Like a beer that has been sitting around.

There is still not much evidence of fermentation continuing. Should I just be patient?

 

[NewBrew09]

Got a thermometer? The sticky backed kind?
When ambient air and wort are same temperature, this will stop happening, but somehow, wort is still warmer. (80F still feels cool to the hand...since the hand is warmer). At least you're using vodka - I was using StarSan in the airlock and watching THAT go back into the carboy.
Now, I'm very careful about cooling the wort to about 62-64 going into the fermenter.
The yeast startup is a bit slower, but now I'm never over temps and the beers have been tasting much better.

It started active fermentation today. I got a thermometer and put it on, and right now it is fermenting at 74F. I originally pitched the yeast at wort temp of 65F. I have moved it out of the room it was in to a cooler spot to try and cool the fermentation temp down more. I may resort to the container with ice in it as it is a Dunkel and needs to ferment at around 55F.

 

[nebben]

NB09, it's good to hear your yeasties are starting up!
Another thing that I didn't mention in my first post about the airlock sucking back in- it acts like a barometer.

1. If your wort is warmer than ambient surroundings, when the wort cools to ambient temperature, it will cause a vacuum inside.
2. Even after the wort has reached temperature equilibrium, if the yeast isn't making CO2 yet, changes in atmospheric air pressure will also cause a vacuum inside.

Brewed on a rainy day, and brought it in? As soon as it gets sunny and better weather arrives, atmospheric pressure will increase: airlock gets sucked in. A day later, rain comes back (low pressure returns), causing the airlock to bubble, if only one or two bubbles. Several hours later, weather improves, causing suckback again. This can happen over and over as long as your yeast isn't started up yet, and as long as you keep filling the airlock.

 

[kenstogie]

If the temp gets kind of cool and it appears the yeast is resting, when it warms up will the yeast start fermentation again and come out of hibernation?

 

[NewBrew09]

NB09, it's good to hear your yeasties are starting up!
Another thing that I didn't mention in my first post about the airlock sucking back in- it acts like a barometer.

1. If your wort is warmer than ambient surroundings, when the wort cools to ambient temperature, it will cause a vacuum inside.
2. Even after the wort has reached temperature equilibrium, if the yeast isn't making CO2 yet, changes in atmospheric air pressure will also cause a vacuum inside.

Brewed on a rainy day, and brought it in? As soon as it gets sunny and better weather arrives, atmospheric pressure will increase: airlock gets sucked in. A day later, rain comes back (low pressure returns), causing the airlock to bubble, if only one or two bubbles. Several hours later, weather improves, causing suckback again. This can happen over and over as long as your yeast isn't started up yet, and as long as you keep filling the airlock.

I think you called it right with the barometer effect, but I don't think it was the wort temp in the carboy, as when I put the wort into the carboy, it was at 65F, ambient air temp in the house was 73F. Yesterday the fermentation temp was at around 74F but I finally got it down to 68F as of this morning and the fermentation is still going really strong. It had a nice thick krausen on it after the first signs of fermentation that fell after 36 hours, checked it this morning and it is still going really strong with a second thick head of krausen. It smells rather delightful coming out of the airlock. This may be my best beer yet.

 

[kenstogie]

Brewing some Hefe with a OG of 1.045 and it seems to have stopped at 1.020. What to do? It tastes fine. By my calculations it should be about 3.25 or so ABV. Is that all that ABV I am going to get out of it?

 

[logjumper2]

My first batch I brewed a belgian ale using a dry yeast. I noticed bubbles in my air lock within the first 12 hours. This last batch I just started on friday I used a liquid yeast. Still only a few bubbles here and there when noticed. My temp in about 72 degrees. This time I am brewing a wit. I will give it another day and check the gravity. Another other suggestions

 

[imprez25]

Thrid batch is not starting to ferment now at about 60 hours. It's a Impreial IPA that the kit stated the og would be around 1.050-1.060. However, mine turned out to be 1.070. I used dry yeast that came in the brewer's best kit. I shook the bucket lastnight hoping to get something sturred up, but this morning still nothing. (Gravity readings have not changed from the OG 1.070) Is this too big of a beer for the Danstar Nottingham Dry yeast? Should I repitch? help a brother out! Thanks.

 

[kenstogie]

Kind of a related question but how warm is too warm for yeast?? I am sure it depends on the yeast strain but generally....

How warm is too warm?
I am hovering at 76-78 and the LBS brewer said that he doesn't worry about it until 80.

How does the temp affect flavor?

Current batch i a Dinkelwiezen.

 

[kenstogie]

Thrid batch is not starting to ferment now at about 60 hours. It's a Impreial IPA that the kit stated the og would be around 1.050-1.060. However, mine turned out to be 1.070. I used dry yeast that came in the brewer's best kit. I shook the bucket lastnight hoping to get something sturred up, but this morning still nothing. (Gravity readings have not changed from the OG 1.070) Is this too big of a beer for the Danstar Nottingham Dry yeast? Should I repitch? help a brother out! Thanks.

I have been told that repitching is an option but i am no expert.

 

[imprez25]

I have been told that repitching is an option but i am no expert.

Yeah, I repitched on Tuesday night, and had a rocket of a ferm going by Wednesday morning. It has slowed dramatically now and is going to sit in time out for a few weeks. Smells great thought.

 

[SpaghettiMonster]

Hate to post another ‘no fermentation yet’ post but I just needed a little reassurance. I’m doing my first batch using my set up with a fridge and temp control. I’ve got the control set to keep it at 62 degrees (the instructions were to keep it between 57 and 72 degrees. Normally I’ve always had no problem with seeing plenty of airlock action. I broke my Hydrometer before I got a OG reading. The few times I’ve pushed down on the lid I get a few bubbles so I think I’m ok. (I brewed Monday morning) Does dropping the temp that low, previously my temps were probably low 70’s, slow up the visible fermentation that much? Should I be worried about temps being too low? Thanks

 

[kenstogie]

I am no expert but I don't think you should be worried and I am pretty sure a lower temp slows the fermentation speed. It'll kick in if you have faith in the beer gods.

 

[SpaghettiMonster]

OK just checked and I'm get a nice steady bubble every few seconds.

 

[packas]

Hi all

My first brew so please forgive my novice questions!!

Starting gravity on 27th June was 1043. Checked reading on 30th June (3 days into fermentation) & gravity was 1017. Checked it today (3rd July) & it was only 1013. Is it common for it to slow down like this? I'm brewing Coopers Brewmaster Wheat beer. Temp. is about 23 deg C.

Thanks,
Pat.

 

[packas]

Hi all

My first brew so please forgive my novice questions!!

Starting gravity on 27th June was 1043. Checked reading on 30th June (3 days into fermentation) & gravity was 1017. Checked it today (3rd July) & it was only 1013. Is it common for it to slow down like this? I'm brewing Coopers Brewmaster Wheat beer. Temp. is about 23 deg C.

Thanks,
Pat.

Hi All,

Any advice/re-assurance?

 

[WilliamstonBrew]

Yeah that is totally normal. The most vigorous fermentation occurs within the first few days, then it plateaus off. It's good you're using a hydrometer, many don't then come here with their heads spinning like something from The Exorcist.

Even though your hydrometer will indicate when fermentation is finishing, don't rush it to bottle. The yeast will still do good things well after your gravity has bottomed out. Let it go for 10-14 days. Since it's a wheat beer, you can bottle after 10 days (assuming your gravity has been constant for a few days) and then drink after 2 weeks in the bottle... they're great fresh and from my wheat brewing experience actually start to deteriorate after 3-4 weeks. I am sure others would argue that point, it was just my experience.

EDIT: Grammar.

 

[packas]

Yeah that is totally normal. The most vigorous fermentation occurs within the first few days, then it plateaus off. It's good you're using a hydrometer, many don't then come here with their heads spinning like something from The Exorcist.

Even though your hydrometer will indicate when fermentation is finishing, don't rush it to bottle. The yeast will still do good things well after your gravity has bottomed out. Let it go for 10-14 days. Since it's a wheat beer, you can bottle after 10 days (assuming your gravity has been constant for a few days) and then drink after 2 weeks in the bottle... they're great fresh and from my wheat brewing experience actually start to deteriorate after 3-4 weeks. I am sure others would argue that point, it was just my experience.

EDIT: Grammar.

Thanks for re-assuring me. Wow mad to hear that potentially they can deteriorate after 3-4 weeks. Think I may take some time off work to drink it so

 

[WilliamstonBrew]

ha! awesome excuse...

But in all honesty the VAST majority of home brews will NOT deteriorate in 3-4 weeks, quite the opposite.

In my short and humble experience the wheat brews are better young and fresh... don't let them sit around forever.... drink 'em up...

 

[packas]

ha! awesome excuse...

But in all honesty the VAST majority of home brews will NOT deteriorate in 3-4 weeks, quite the opposite.

In my short and humble experience the wheat brews are better young and fresh... don't let them sit around forever.... drink 'em up...

Ok so. My minds made up. Must book some time off work early August.:cross:

 

[CrazyBrew]

Just brewed some Amber Ale and used Cal Ale liquid yeast. The beer was aerated and ferementation is temp. controlled. It still took 41 hours for fermentation to start. And wow did it start. Krausen to the top. I am using a blow off tube so no worries.

 

[ThinkinDavid]

This thread is making me feel a little better but I'm still worried about my beer. It's been about 12 hours since i pitched the wyeast American Wheat, I simply smacked it good and pitched it right into the wort. I don't know how to make a starter, I didn't know such things were necessary. There is absolutely no activity in the carboy which is throwing me off. Usually the day after brewing I wake up the next morning to see healthy fermentation, however, I usually use dry yeast, too. So I'm hoping that since I used wet yeast, or whatever you might consider the smack pack, it will just take a little longer to get started since I apparently didn't prep the yeast right. But I'm also worried the air conditioner was set unusually low last night and could have chilled the carboy to about 65 degrees F.

After reading this thread I realize I may be a little skittish about my liquid baby, but its only because I care . I will wait at least until tomorrow night before I do anything about it, but I'm wondering if my wort doesn't ferment can I save it by re-pitching some dry yeast in a couple days?

 

[SourHopHead]

Brewed another IPA with Ringwood Ale yeast and took 48hrs to show any signs. A nice krausen and am also using a blowoff tube.

 

[packas]

Hi all

My first brew so please forgive my novice questions!!

Starting gravity on 27th June was 1043. Checked reading on 30th June (3 days into fermentation) & gravity was 1017. Checked it today (3rd July) & it was only 1013. Is it common for it to slow down like this? I'm brewing Coopers Brewmaster Wheat beer. Temp. is about 23 deg C.

Thanks,
Pat.

Hi All,
Check gravit today (8/7/09) it was 1012. So after 5 days gravity dropped 1 point. That works out at about 4%. A bit less than I thought Should I leave it another while or go ahead & bottle? I've been reading that you don't bottle unitl 1010 or less.

regards,
Pat.