Has anybody purchased and used the new gaskets yet ? If so, did they work OK ? Personally, I have been using teflon tape on the threads where the lid attaches for the past few batches but would like to get away from doing that and just being able to use gaskets.
FastFerment conical fermenter??????
- Thread starter tdf700
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk:
Nice Setup, preamble!
pauld315 - Not yet, I just received the new gasket myself, but I'm in the middle of a batch. I'll let you know how it works. It's a lot thicker, and looks to be made of silicon rubber.
pauld315 - Not yet, I just received the new gasket myself, but I'm in the middle of a batch. I'll let you know how it works. It's a lot thicker, and looks to be made of silicon rubber.
apezz
Active Member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2015
- Messages
- 26
- Reaction score
- 3
I received my new gaskets but but since I have something already fermenting I've yet to try them. Luckily i was able to get the original gasket to seal, but I really had to crank down on the lid to make that happen. The new ones are much softer and thicker and since I was able to get a seal with the original gasket I'm assume the new ones will work. Lets brew some more and find out...
I have had excellent seals using two of the old foam gaskets going on first ( touching the lid) and then one of the new silicone gaskets going in second, touching the foam gaskets and sealing on the lip of the opening. The new gaskets work great
I just got mine. Having just moved recently, none of my brewing stuff is unpacked yet, so I haven't had a chance to try mine out. I only got the original collection ball, but I'm starting to wonder if I should have gotten a second one... How many of you bought the second one and was it worth the extra $$?
1975brewer
Well-Known Member
They shipped an extra collection ball with each of mine because of the delay in the order. So far I have had no need for them.
![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
EuBrew
Well-Known Member
I have 2 units and I haven't had them both full so I have an extra handy. Having said that I couldn't readily locate the ball on my empty when I dumped so I just gave it a quick wash and dunk in star san and used the same one. If you are harvesting the yeast it could be handy though. I haven't put much thought into harvesting yet but I'm thinking I'd get the most usable yeast on the second ball dump anyway.
Harvesting is exactly why I am thinking I should have gotten the extra one. Until I use it the first time though, I really won't know. I plan on dumping the trub before I pitch my yeast so that I get a full clean yeast drop. Then if I want to dry hop, I can pull all the yeast off before I add them. :rockin:
I picked up an extra ball just on the "crap breaks" rule. I haven't used it yet - first batch in the FF. When I emptied the trub at the end of active fermentation, there was a good layer of yeast bubbling in the top of the ball. I expect that if you emptied the trub out in the first couple of days, you'd get a nice batch of yeast in there.
Ok...I just bottled my first batch from the FF. And started a new batch with the new seal. Here's my observations.
Emptying the ball the second time before bottling yielded a good layer of yeast in the bottom, covered with a good layer of beer. No trub to speak of, after I had emptied it the first time at the end of active fermentation.
I didn't attempt to stir in the priming sugar. I wussed out and used fizz drops. After it was all said and done I was glad I did. I bottled directly from the FF, and although the cream ale was good and clear, there was a bit of sediment clinging to the sides of the conical. If I had stirred in the priming sugar, it would have suspended all of that remaining sediment, and really clouded up the beer. It would have settled in the bottles, of course, but I wonder if it would have affected the taste any. In any case, next time I'll use the bottling bucket to save the expense of the fizz drops.
Cleaning was a breeze! Hot dog! I just used my sink sprayer with hot water to wash it out, followed by star san, inside and through the valve. The ball, I soaked in star san after rinsing it well. Easy cleaning!
The new batch of TC and Bearcat wheat went into the FF, and I put on the new seal. I set the old seal aside, and used no teflon tape on the threads. Today, it's bubbling happily, so the seal looks to be working very well. I didn't crank down on the lid really, either. The new seal is quite thick and pliable...good choice. I'd recommend getting it to save the hassles of trying to seal with the original. Not a lot of expense, and worth it, IMHO.
As an aside...the fizz drops...Holy Moley! Just out of curiosity, I cracked open one of the bottles after aging only 3 days. Full carbonation! The beer was a little raw still. It needed to age in the bottle a bit. But the carbonation was there, and the fizz drop was completely dissolved. I'd try them again. The expense is prohibitive, but the results, at least in my case, were good.
Hope this gives some data to those wondering. Your results may be different of course, but some data is better than no data!
Cheers!
Waw
Emptying the ball the second time before bottling yielded a good layer of yeast in the bottom, covered with a good layer of beer. No trub to speak of, after I had emptied it the first time at the end of active fermentation.
I didn't attempt to stir in the priming sugar. I wussed out and used fizz drops. After it was all said and done I was glad I did. I bottled directly from the FF, and although the cream ale was good and clear, there was a bit of sediment clinging to the sides of the conical. If I had stirred in the priming sugar, it would have suspended all of that remaining sediment, and really clouded up the beer. It would have settled in the bottles, of course, but I wonder if it would have affected the taste any. In any case, next time I'll use the bottling bucket to save the expense of the fizz drops.
Cleaning was a breeze! Hot dog! I just used my sink sprayer with hot water to wash it out, followed by star san, inside and through the valve. The ball, I soaked in star san after rinsing it well. Easy cleaning!
The new batch of TC and Bearcat wheat went into the FF, and I put on the new seal. I set the old seal aside, and used no teflon tape on the threads. Today, it's bubbling happily, so the seal looks to be working very well. I didn't crank down on the lid really, either. The new seal is quite thick and pliable...good choice. I'd recommend getting it to save the hassles of trying to seal with the original. Not a lot of expense, and worth it, IMHO.
As an aside...the fizz drops...Holy Moley! Just out of curiosity, I cracked open one of the bottles after aging only 3 days. Full carbonation! The beer was a little raw still. It needed to age in the bottle a bit. But the carbonation was there, and the fizz drop was completely dissolved. I'd try them again. The expense is prohibitive, but the results, at least in my case, were good.
Hope this gives some data to those wondering. Your results may be different of course, but some data is better than no data!
Cheers!
Waw
preamble
Member
Hey Wawster, thanks for the update. My seals are arriving today so I should be trying them out this weekend.
As far as priming, you might want to rethink using a bottling bucket as that would promote oxidization; something the FF helps to greatly reduce.
As far as priming, you might want to rethink using a bottling bucket as that would promote oxidization; something the FF helps to greatly reduce.
First off, congrats on the first batch in the FF and I see you didn't waste any time going for #2!
If you're concerned about sediment in your bottles/beer, a bottling bucket with a priming sugar solution sitting in the bottom is the way to go for the reasons you discovered. But when you do so, just make sure the end of your tubing is sitting on the bottom of the bucket and don't open the ball valve wide open. Just crack it open enough so the beer fills the tubing but flows slowly into the bucket and doesn't cause splashing in the bucket. Also, so it doesn't create a vortex inside the FF due to the conical shape.
Thanks guys! Good advice!
Whenever I siphoned from the carboys into the bottling bucket in the past, I always had the tube of the siphon in the bottom of the bucket curled around, so it didn' splash, and caused a slight stirring effect to help mix the primer. I could do the same from the FF.and crack the valve like jbb3 mentioned.
One other note. I had bought a 1/2" spring loaded bottling tube to go on the 1/2" tube that came with the FF (yeah, I know it was a blow-off tube, but WTF...LOL). When I used it to bottle, I kinda didn't like it. It was actually too big, and the beer flowed through into the bottles way too fast. With the 3/8" bottling tube, it was easy to see when the beer was getting to the top of the bottle inside, so I could stop. With the 1/2" it was actually harder to judge when to stop, so I had a number of overflows before I could stop - caused a bit of a mess. So if someone is thinking to bottle from the FF, make sure to crack the valve like jbb3 mentions to slow down the flow. It could be just a learning curve, but no one likes their beer all over the floor!
Whenever I siphoned from the carboys into the bottling bucket in the past, I always had the tube of the siphon in the bottom of the bucket curled around, so it didn' splash, and caused a slight stirring effect to help mix the primer. I could do the same from the FF.and crack the valve like jbb3 mentioned.
One other note. I had bought a 1/2" spring loaded bottling tube to go on the 1/2" tube that came with the FF (yeah, I know it was a blow-off tube, but WTF...LOL). When I used it to bottle, I kinda didn't like it. It was actually too big, and the beer flowed through into the bottles way too fast. With the 3/8" bottling tube, it was easy to see when the beer was getting to the top of the bottle inside, so I could stop. With the 1/2" it was actually harder to judge when to stop, so I had a number of overflows before I could stop - caused a bit of a mess. So if someone is thinking to bottle from the FF, make sure to crack the valve like jbb3 mentions to slow down the flow. It could be just a learning curve, but no one likes their beer all over the floor!
Menhir
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know if Fast Ferment is planning to switch to the new seal on their new fermenters? I'd think that correcting a known defect in their product would be a high priority.
To those wondering about what to do when replacing the collection ball after emptying the yeast. I fill it with some cheap commercial beer. The beer is sterile and inert and you're not running the risk of adding any airborne contamination.
Menhir
Well-Known Member
I checked with the folks who make the FastFerment conical and they said that all of their newly manufactured conicals have the new and improved top gasket. They are also now planing the top of the fermenter for an exact fit.
barneyfife
Well-Known Member
I hope this isn't highjacking a thread, if so, i apologize
I am picking up a fastferment this week, and i do the "no chill" method in a 23 liter aquatainer, which i let sit over night, and pitch the next morning.
My question is, if I pour it into the fastferment the next day, and let it sit for 6 or 7 hours to collect trub/break material first, then dump, then pitch yeast, would that be too long of wait to pitch yeast, basically 30 or so hours from putting in aquatainer to pitching yeast.
Thank
Barney
I am picking up a fastferment this week, and i do the "no chill" method in a 23 liter aquatainer, which i let sit over night, and pitch the next morning.
My question is, if I pour it into the fastferment the next day, and let it sit for 6 or 7 hours to collect trub/break material first, then dump, then pitch yeast, would that be too long of wait to pitch yeast, basically 30 or so hours from putting in aquatainer to pitching yeast.
Thank
Barney
msbrewblog
Well-Known Member
Curious about this. Received my 1st FF last week. When screwing the top lid on, seems the bottom lip of the lid touches the big portion of the fermenter....before the top of the lid seats the gasket? Felt that way at least. Can I trust that it's making a seal?
Menhir
Well-Known Member
You can test it. Put on an airlock, open the valve (without the ball attached) and gently blow air into the fermenter. If the slightest amount of air makes the airlock bubble then you have a good seal. If its not sealing you might try contacting the manufacturer like I did. They responded promptly to my inquiry.
Just want to let folks know that I don't own one of these fermenters, but am planning on buying two of them in about a month. I checked with the manufacturers to make sure that the air seal problems had been corrected in their newly produced fermenters.
cantrell00
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2013
- Messages
- 840
- Reaction score
- 116
The only fool proof way I have been able to seal the lid is to wrap painters tape around the edge where the lid meets the to part of the fermenter.
Not elegant by any means but certainly effective.
I think this is highly dependent on your sanitation practices. If everything is sanitary then you can probably get away with it. I have done a bunch of the no-chill method, and the time that is important is the time from opening the no-chill container to pitching. I have left the wort in the bottle sealed up for almost a week before without any apparent issue. I also kept it cold (40 or so) which may have helped.
I did find that if I racked the wort out of the no-chill container (I use WinPak containers from USPlastics) then I could leave all the trub and crap behind and pitch immediately. In fact, one nice thing with the no-chill method I found was that I could sit on the wort until I had the starter ready to go, then unseal it and pitch as soon as it was in the fermentor. It saved me at least once when the yeast starter failed (bad smack pack) and I had to redo it a couple days later when the LHBS opened back up.
So, in short, I guess I'm trying to say that a 7hr wait wouldn't bother me at all as long as I was clean.
rockydog101
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2015
- Messages
- 66
- Reaction score
- 24
This is going in my "complete piece of ****" list. I've been fermenting without trouble for three weeks. Was going to take it of the yeast today. Twisted the ball lock, then unscrewed the bottom. To my horror my beautiful brew leaked from the ball lock. Leaked. And leaked. And when I tried to screw the bottom back on,it kept leaking anyway. Yes, the large rubber washer was in place. I think the ball lock failed. ****ing piece of ****.
MrKelly
Active Member
Try taking the handle off and using the tool on it to tighten the inner part of the valve.
You can take it apart the same way for cleaning.
cantrell00
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2013
- Messages
- 840
- Reaction score
- 116
Thanks mr Kelly.
I knew about tightening it. Didn't know that you could use the handle to do that though.
I knew about tightening it. Didn't know that you could use the handle to do that though.
redwing_al
http://www.homebrewmania.com/
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2014
- Messages
- 457
- Reaction score
- 59
now, how the heck did you know to do that? mind=blown
bairsbrewing
Well-Known Member
Where can I find this conical fermenter everyone is talking about?
