I used a graduated pitcher to measure the level markers for 1, 1.5, and 2 gallons. They seemed as accurate as my pitcher. The level does not include the ball volume. I measured with the ball off and the valve closed.
I pulled the ball to get rid of trub (appx 20hrs in). The techniques I use to mash and drain to the kettle leaves only the minutest of particles in the beer. I bag all hops and use whole cone unless the hop I want is only available in pellet. I get little hop residue.
So, when I pulled the ball, it had about 1/2" of trub/yeast and the rest was good beer. I did not put another ball on. I think from now on, I won't use the ball. I will just install the spout, make a quick trub dump after day one, then a yeast dump after a week or two. At that point I either dump the yeast into the ground or into a mason jar depending on whether or not I want to save it. I use so many different yeasts it's hard to save one because I may not need it again for months. I will probably only save WLP001/US05 most of the time.
It's bubbling away nicely and no leaks.
please share your techniquies on how you minimize trub, coagulation, etc. I seem to fight it.
Toward the end of the mash, I started draining the tun into a growler, then pouring it back in thru a colander to diffuse the flow. Then it doesn't stir the grain bed. I do this about a dozen times or so until I can see clearly thru the tubing and. At that point the filter bed is set. Then, when mashing out into my brew kettle, I run it thru a filter bag suspended at the top of my kettle. I get no grain particles in the brew kettle.
I bag all hops. Then, when draining the brew kettle, after a whirlpool and rest, the pickup for the drain will leave behind appx 1/2gal of the junk plus it goes thru a SS strainer into the fermenter.
Sounds awful complicated when I had to type it out with my thumbs, but it's pretty simple really.
When I rack the beer, what's left behind is always pretty clean, mostly just yeast.
I tried washing my yeast a few times and realized it wasn't worth the time because there is so little sediment.
I use Irish Moss in the kettle but otherwise no finings and I don't filter the beer. I get pretty darn clear beer most every time.
I actually learned some of these techniques from one of Tucsons most well known and respected homebrewers. I don't know how other people do it, but it works for me.
Sent from my magic box, using only my thumbs.
Psssshhht. I do none of that crap!
View attachment 237149
ummm... errr...![]()
but maybe I'll give some of those a try next time...![]()
Psssshhht. I do none of that crap!
View attachment 237149
ummm... errr...![]()
but maybe I'll give some of those a try next time...![]()
Today I racked to keg from my FastFermenter.. here is a "how to" and a "how to not"!
enjoy!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvlQIyZ_AiU
![]()
That looks like all yeast! Man I need to adopt some of your trub management techniques...
Put my second one to use today, in around three hours i'll pull the first bulb install the second, aerate and pitch the yeast from the first batch which looks to be clean yeast, liking it![]()
Put my second one to use today, in around three hours i'll pull the first bulb install the second, aerate and pitch the yeast from the first batch which looks to be clean yeast, liking it![]()
I'd be interested to hear what people using ss conicals experience. They don't have the balls on them and people dump yeast. Do they have bigger openings? SS is more slippery than plastic?
Primary: Maibock, Helles (first partigyle batch), Oatmeal Brown Ale
Secondary:
On tap: Orange Belgian IPA, Turbo IIPA, Mojave Red, Black Magic Stout
Bottled: Dwarven Gold Ale, La Fin Du Mond clone, Hefeweizen