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FastFerment conical fermenter??????

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Yep that would work, and brew belts on both to manage individual temps.

And that's what I'm struggling with right now. I have an IPA over a week into ferment (already at FG) and a new very active ferment. I have the chamber and the IPA @ 65. The new, very active stout is running 70-71. My target is 67. Not too bad but not what I want.

I think your dream 4 frig set-up might be better after all...
 
Set the fridge to like 60 and then use brew belts or mats on each fermenter. But that's a heater and controller for every fermenter so still more $$



Primary: Maibock, Helles (first partigyle batch)
Secondary: Mojave Red, Irish Stout
On tap: Orange Belgian IPA, Turbo IIPA
Bottled: Dwarven Gold Ale, La Fin Du Mond clone, Hefeweizen
 
Set the fridge to like 60 and then use brew belts or mats on each fermenter. But that's a heater and controller for every fermenter so still more $$

hmmm... You have me thinking now...

Guess I could pull my control/viewing panel back off and add another controller. I actually already have another controller but it's the un-hacked version that displays in Celsius.

Then I could set the main controller to the lowest temperature of the two and use the heating belt/pad to tweak the temp of the second fermenter.

That might just work!!

I pulled out the controller in the photo and replaced it with a 1000+. Which is why I have an extra now.

Don't you love it when a well thought out plan comes together!! ;)

Thanks bd2xu!! Can I call you bd for short?? :mug:

8 - Control panel - painted.jpg
 
Sounds good and great chamber you've built. I'd use brew mats I hear they work better. I would use them but in a chest freezer there's always water in the floor.

BD2XU by the way is my initials. BDW. So B D and 2 x U is double U (w). Made sense when I created it but too hard to remember



Primary: Maibock, Helles (first partigyle batch)
Secondary: Mojave Red, Irish Stout
On tap: Orange Belgian IPA, Turbo IIPA
Bottled: Dwarven Gold Ale, La Fin Du Mond clone, Hefeweizen
 
to solve the little issuse I did have, I sanititised a butter knife, removed the ball and stuck it up in the hole to free up trub. Once it started to 'poop out' on it's own, I closed the valve, readded the ball and opened valve. the sediment then went to the ball.

That sounds like a good idea. I'm still curious to find out what percent of people have had to deal with this so far and what clever solutions they have used.
 
My first batch came off a charm thus far. It was a commercially produced Festa Czech Pils wort however. I don't expect mine to clean up as well but I'll give it a go soon. Some drippage even after I water tested both. I didn't secondary in the vessel as I wanted to cold crash it and now realize that they won't fit in my lager fridge - somehow miscalculated that. I racked the Pils to a carbon and will clear it that way. Racking was a pleasure I must say. There's nothing better than a great rack!


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
Nice ferm chamber jbb3. I guess I will have to go this route or use my bucket/ carboy for lagering. I can see the FF making some decent ales however.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
Very nice. What kind of fridge is that?

Brand is Americana (GE on inside label) from HD. I upgraded the basement beer fridge and use this as a ferm chamber. Can fit a couple of carboys but would need to build an add on chamber for more than one fastferment. I usually have only one batch going at a time so this is fine. I trimmed the base to fit the hump in the fridge bottom. Going to make a right angle blow using an elbow and spare bulkhead fitting. No clearance problems at all for that.
 
Did anyone ever check the accuracy of the volume marks on this thing? Do those marks include or exclude the wort in the collection ball??
 
I used a graduated pitcher to measure the level markers for 1, 1.5, and 2 gallons. They seemed as accurate as my pitcher. The level does not include the ball volume. I measured with the ball off and the valve closed.
 
I used a graduated pitcher to measure the level markers for 1, 1.5, and 2 gallons. They seemed as accurate as my pitcher. The level does not include the ball volume. I measured with the ball off and the valve closed.

Thanks! That's a good thing.

Except for the top not sealing very well, I'm beginning to be swayed over to the light side on this thing. I'll be dry hoping in the next few days. Should have the final verdict in a week or so...
 
Kegged my first batch from this fermenter the other day, a Bourbon Vanilla Porter. Kegging is very easy and the fermenter performed well. It was very easy to clean up. I was able to wash and harvest my yeast with little problem although the first ball of mostly trub was kind of hard to get out of the ball. I got a little out then added water and was able to get the rest out. The next batch I am going to empty the first ball into the jar I use to start washing the yeast right when I take it off the fermenter to see if it comes out any easier instead of putting the ball in the fridge. I also think I will throw an old towel down on the bottom of my fermentation chamber to absorb the little bit of beer that leaks out when you remove the ball. Getting ready to prepare a yeast starter tomorrow morning for a batch of chocolate milk stout that I am brewing on Friday.
 
Kegged my 2nd patch and all was perfect! I bottled 4 bombers first. One ball collected most all yeast/turb. Than I just ran about a cup of brew to a container than bottled a few. Rest straight to a keg. Very fast and easy, no issues and easy clean up. I was looking for something else to do it was so fast. Thought I forgot to do a step. But it's just easier.

Brew on.........
 
First batch in. Pale Ale with Chinook and Cascade. 1.052 OG
In my fermentation room.

ImageUploadedByHome Brew1416086753.047084.jpg


Sent from my magic box, using only my thumbs.
 
I pulled the ball to get rid of trub (appx 20hrs in). The techniques I use to mash and drain to the kettle leaves only the minutest of particles in the beer. I bag all hops and use whole cone unless the hop I want is only available in pellet. I get little hop residue.
So, when I pulled the ball, it had about 1/2" of trub/yeast and the rest was good beer. I did not put another ball on. I think from now on, I won't use the ball. I will just install the spout, make a quick trub dump after day one, then a yeast dump after a week or two. At that point I either dump the yeast into the ground or into a mason jar depending on whether or not I want to save it. I use so many different yeasts it's hard to save one because I may not need it again for months. I will probably only save WLP001/US05 most of the time.

It's bubbling away nicely and no leaks.
 
please share your techniquies on how you minimize trub, coagulation, etc. I seem to fight it.

I pulled the ball to get rid of trub (appx 20hrs in). The techniques I use to mash and drain to the kettle leaves only the minutest of particles in the beer. I bag all hops and use whole cone unless the hop I want is only available in pellet. I get little hop residue.
So, when I pulled the ball, it had about 1/2" of trub/yeast and the rest was good beer. I did not put another ball on. I think from now on, I won't use the ball. I will just install the spout, make a quick trub dump after day one, then a yeast dump after a week or two. At that point I either dump the yeast into the ground or into a mason jar depending on whether or not I want to save it. I use so many different yeasts it's hard to save one because I may not need it again for months. I will probably only save WLP001/US05 most of the time.

It's bubbling away nicely and no leaks.
 
please share your techniquies on how you minimize trub, coagulation, etc. I seem to fight it.


Toward the end of the mash, I started draining the tun into a growler, then pouring it back in thru a colander to diffuse the flow. Then it doesn't stir the grain bed. I do this about a dozen times or so until I can see clearly thru the tubing and. At that point the filter bed is set. Then, when mashing out into my brew kettle, I run it thru a filter bag suspended at the top of my kettle. I get no grain particles in the brew kettle.
I bag all hops. Then, when draining the brew kettle, after a whirlpool and rest, the pickup for the drain will leave behind appx 1/2gal of the junk plus it goes thru a SS strainer into the fermenter.

Sounds awful complicated when I had to type it out with my thumbs, but it's pretty simple really.
When I rack the beer, what's left behind is always pretty clean, mostly just yeast.
I tried washing my yeast a few times and realized it wasn't worth the time because there is so little sediment.
I use Irish Moss in the kettle but otherwise no finings and I don't filter the beer. I get pretty darn clear beer most every time.

I actually learned some of these techniques from one of Tucsons most well known and respected homebrewers. I don't know how other people do it, but it works for me.

:mug:


Sent from my magic box, using only my thumbs.
 
Toward the end of the mash, I started draining the tun into a growler, then pouring it back in thru a colander to diffuse the flow. Then it doesn't stir the grain bed. I do this about a dozen times or so until I can see clearly thru the tubing and. At that point the filter bed is set. Then, when mashing out into my brew kettle, I run it thru a filter bag suspended at the top of my kettle. I get no grain particles in the brew kettle.
I bag all hops. Then, when draining the brew kettle, after a whirlpool and rest, the pickup for the drain will leave behind appx 1/2gal of the junk plus it goes thru a SS strainer into the fermenter.

Sounds awful complicated when I had to type it out with my thumbs, but it's pretty simple really.
When I rack the beer, what's left behind is always pretty clean, mostly just yeast.
I tried washing my yeast a few times and realized it wasn't worth the time because there is so little sediment.
I use Irish Moss in the kettle but otherwise no finings and I don't filter the beer. I get pretty darn clear beer most every time.

I actually learned some of these techniques from one of Tucsons most well known and respected homebrewers. I don't know how other people do it, but it works for me.

:mug:

Sent from my magic box, using only my thumbs.

Psssshhht. I do none of that crap!

Full fermenter.jpg

ummm... errr... :eek:

but maybe I'll give some of those a try next time... :mug:
 
Today I racked to keg from my FastFermenter.. here is a "how to" and a "how to not"!

enjoy!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvlQIyZ_AiU
watch

Thanks for sharing the experience! Others have shared their issues (o-ring sticking to collection ball union) and that has already saved me from the same fate. So the sharing of these experiences do help folks learn through your experiences!!

One comment: When racking into keg, bottling bucket, whatever, I would make sure the hose is all the way down at the bottom on the container in order to reduce splashing and oxygen exposure.

Thanks again for sharing!:mug:

I may be doing the same thing this weekend!!:ban:
 
Put my second one to use today, in around three hours i'll pull the first bulb install the second, aerate and pitch the yeast from the first batch which looks to be clean yeast, liking it;)

IMG_5228.jpg


IMG_5227.jpg
 
Put my second one to use today, in around three hours i'll pull the first bulb install the second, aerate and pitch the yeast from the first batch which looks to be clean yeast, liking it;)

how long will you wait before you pitch the yeast?
 
Put my second one to use today, in around three hours i'll pull the first bulb install the second, aerate and pitch the yeast from the first batch which looks to be clean yeast, liking it;)

Looking good! Twice as good!! :D

I think I'm going to order a second one myself. There's enough room in my chamber to hold two of these FF conicals plus one bucket/carboy if I use the space inside the compact frig. I think the FF has won me over. Might as well pull the trigger...
 
I finally got my first batch into the fast ferment last night. A 1.049 hefeweizen. Let it sit about 3 hrs for any trub to settle, and when shined a light on the ball it was clear, no trub. Not sure why but even the kettle had very little.
So I pitched wyeast 3333 and realized that it is so flocculent that it was chunked up in the flask and probably sank to the bottom, and into the ball. I pulled the ball and dumped it back in, leaving the valve closed. This morning it was bubbling away nicely so I opened the valve. Epic fail. Within seconds of it bubbling up, the air lock started spraying sanitizer up in micro streams, then the foam arrived and did the same. I grabbed a blow off tube for my bungs, and swapped it for the air lock and in the time it too to swap about 2 cups of foam escaped, plus another cup or so through the tube.
After about 5 min it settled back down and I was able to put a fresh air lock on it. This was about 2 gal of foam forming in like 30 seconds. I know that disturbing it during fermentation will cause the co2 to come out of solution, by holy beer foam. Never like this.
Anyone else had this happen?
 
That would have been nice! Micro jet streams of Sanitizer was pretty cool looking till panic set in.
 
I just ordered mine and hope to ferment a Cascadian Dark in a couple of weeks.
I'll add observations and comments as I put the fermenter to use.

I do have two questions/comments re previous posts.

1. To reduce oxidation issues, purge everything with co2; collection ball after dumping/harvesting, and kegs before filling.

2. Does the "neck" of the fermenter seem narrow? Maybe that is the issue with it clogging with trub/yeast.

I'm looking forward to my latest brew toy.
 
Tried to dump the yeast today.
Not using the collection ball made that difficult. The beer punched a hole thru the yeast layer and I just got beer.

So, I do need to use the ball, but I'm not concerned about dumping trub. I can use 1 ball and just leave it there for a week or so, then pull it.

I'm 9 days in on the pale, installed a collection ball and, of course, it bubbled up thru the beer, which is what I didn't want to do. Hopefully the yeast will settle into it.
 
I'd be interested to hear what people using ss conicals experience. They don't have the balls on them and people dump yeast. Do they have bigger openings? SS is more slippery than plastic?



Primary: Maibock, Helles (first partigyle batch), Oatmeal Brown Ale
Secondary:
On tap: Orange Belgian IPA, Turbo IIPA, Mojave Red, Black Magic Stout
Bottled: Dwarven Gold Ale, La Fin Du Mond clone, Hefeweizen
 
I'd be interested to hear what people using ss conicals experience. They don't have the balls on them and people dump yeast. Do they have bigger openings? SS is more slippery than plastic?



Primary: Maibock, Helles (first partigyle batch), Oatmeal Brown Ale
Secondary:
On tap: Orange Belgian IPA, Turbo IIPA, Mojave Red, Black Magic Stout
Bottled: Dwarven Gold Ale, La Fin Du Mond clone, Hefeweizen

for a home brewer and the price, you can't beat the FastFermenter. Sanitation is everything no matter the material. The collection balls gives a convenient way to remove trub and harvest yeast. It's an overall superior way for homebrewers (my opinion).

If I could afford full SS fermenters, I couldn't get the convenience for my home brewery.
 
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