FastFerment conical fermenter??????

[fhk]

Just my 2 cents, ordered a FastFerment beginning of December, the one they shipped was slightly off-center where the lid screws on and would not seal at all. (this was after I had stayed up all night doing my first AG KristallWeizen. I called the customer service number and spoke to Mitchell who said they had recently made an adjustment to the molding process to improve this and he would send me a replacement for free. The new conical arrived a week later and there is a HUGE difference in how well the screw top functions and how well it fits. Gotta say I was deeply impressed by how they responded and corrected the situation. Many thanks!!!!

OK, TIPS for use based on two batches so far..

#1 TAPE, TAPE, TAPE, (then use more TAPE). The teflon tape is key to stoping the leaks, wrap clockwise with the grain, especially the 1 inch male end of the fermentor that screws into the ball valve. Make sure this is also screwed in as far as it can go.

#2 Do NOT pitch your yeast immediately after transferring wort/juice into the fermentor. Before you initially fill the fermentor, close the valve, take off the collection ball and put the hose on. Wait overnight or at least 3-4 hours, then PURGE the heaviest of the sediment by opening the valve, and THEN remove the hose and attach the collection ball and pitch your yeast.

If you are using Whirlfloc or Irish Moss, this is critical, since the solids that drop out will block the proper functioning of the collection ball and you will loose some clear wort/juice. Plus this gets rid of some nasty stuff right at the beginning.

Will order a second one as soon as I can find a place to mount it, I love the ease of removing the trub without having to rack!

Well, glad to hear it wasn't a manufacturing defect !

 

[rmchair]

Just
OK, TIPS for use based on two batches so far..

#1 TAPE, TAPE, TAPE, (then use more TAPE). The teflon tape is key to stoping the leaks, wrap clockwise with the grain, especially the 1 inch male end of the fermentor that screws into the ball valve. Make sure this is also screwed in as far as it can go.

#2 Do NOT pitch your yeast immediately after transferring wort/juice into the fermentor. Before you initially fill the fermentor, close the valve, take off the collection ball and put the hose on. Wait overnight or at least 3-4 hours, then PURGE the heaviest of the sediment by opening the valve, and THEN remove the hose and attach the collection ball and pitch your yeast.

Uggh Why didn't I read this 8 hours ago? You are a damn genius. I love the idea to hose off the trub. And yes, Definitely double or triple tape the male end of the fermenter. that's the only part you can't redo when its full of beer. I was having no luck going super tight, so I decided not to over-tighten. I came to some conclusions for fastferment 2.0

1. Skip the thermo-well next time. Its not worth having another hole that can leak and another tough spot to clean. A fish tank sticker therm is accurate enough.
2.Use a decal for the info on the side instead of embedding the writing into the plastic- smooth inside should be the goal.
3. Try to come up with a design where the main valve is permanently attached- maybe with a double sleeve so is doesn't contact the wort, or have a pin lock so it doesn't unscrew accidentally. There are too many plastic screw parts acting in concert.
4, include an oil filter wrench to untighten the collection ball. Its harder to work when it's full of cool liquid.
5. I am in a temporary location, so I made a stand from a target upright hamper $8.99 flipped upside down cut a circle in the bottom as wide as I could without messing with the "frame" then I cut out the cage on one side so I could access the collection ball. I should have taken more time with smooth cuts to the cage, but didn't know Id be down there messing with leaks for an hour, sharp, (and make sure not to slice your own veins when using the razor blade like you know who)
6. There really should be a lip on the base. I wasn't sure if I was leaking from the valve or if it was dripping down and collecting from the top when I shook starsan. (I can't seem to get that top sealed 100%)
7. Recommend you fill this up past the thermowell and check for leaks with food coloring before sanitizing.

If anybody knows the ID of the bottling hose that would be nice, because I would really like to attach a bottle filler some how.
Also, if anybody has any insight re the opacity and sunlight issues?

 

[rmchair]

For those of you who want wheels on your homemade stands, its hard to beat bolting on the harbor freight wood furniture dolly for about $9. I used one of those on the bottom of my keezer and it worked great. A lot easier than messing with casters that always seem to fall apart.

 

[Westermans]

First batch done and in primary stage. I slightly under pitched. Stupid me dropped the yeast so I used some 1 gallon kit packs to replace the half I dropped. Hope it's ok. it started fermentation within 12 hours.

So I'm leaving the beer in at least three weeks before I take a gravity reading.

I have not seen an excessive amount of trub and seems to look like yeast in the collection ball. I strain my mash twice once into the boil and again going into the fermenter.

I bought a stand and it works great. Even used the bars of the stand to carry it to my ferm closet.

I'm pretty new to brewing. Only 6 months in. I bought the FF so I don't have to worry about transferring to a bottling bucket or a secondary for dry hopping.

This is my first 5 gal batch, have been brewing 1 gal to practice. So far I'm pretty happy with how everything is working. The only thing I noticed was its hard to fully aerate. I bought a air pump and air stone for my next batch.

I'm not an expert but I'm happy with my experience so far. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1420412190.846767.jpg

 

[gregorywbrown13]

Sanding down the threads on the seam fixed my lid issues. My problem now is that the yeast that settles above the ball does not drain first, rather it mixes with the beer as you drain. This defeats the no rack purpose because you end up with a ton of dead yeast in your final product. Anyone have any tips for that?

 

[ChefRex]

Sanding down the threads on the seam fixed my lid issues. My problem now is that the yeast that settles above the ball does not drain first, rather it mixes with the beer as you drain. This defeats the no rack purpose because you end up with a ton of dead yeast in your final product. Anyone have any tips for that?

Why do you have yeast above the ball? Is it full? Or is the valve closed?
I have been waiting several hours before pitching yeast so trub collects in the ball, I can dump and collect clean yeast, dumb **** me or maybe drunken me forgot to open the valve after dumping the trub so the yeast collected in the v,open the valve and it didn't look like any thing moved but over the next few days all the yeast has moved into the collection ball.

 

[JAG107]

Is anyone else having leak problems at the union fitting? On my third batch now, and even with teflon the leak is getting worse. Guess I need to buy a new fitting...I tightened it as hard as I could with some big channel locks, but any tighter and I'm afraid I'll break something. I've had no other issues though, it's been working great. The Hef from the first batch came out nicely!

 

[gregorywbrown13]

Why do you have yeast above the ball? Is it full? Or is the valve closed?
I have been waiting several hours before pitching yeast so trub collects in the ball, I can dump and collect clean yeast, dumb **** me or maybe drunken me forgot to open the valve after dumping the trub so the yeast collected in the v,open the valve and it didn't look like any thing moved but over the next few days all the yeast has moved into the collection ball.

I always(3 batches) end up with a full ball and yeast above the ball as well.

 

[ChefRex]

Is anyone else having leak problems at the union fitting? On my third batch now, and even with teflon the leak is getting worse. Guess I need to buy a new fitting...I tightened it as hard as I could with some big channel locks, but any tighter and I'm afraid I'll break something. I've had no other issues though, it's been working great. The Hef from the first batch came out nicely!

Have you used a file or sandpaper to remove the flash left over between the mold half before taping?

 

[gregorywbrown13]

Duplicate

 

[ChefRex]

Duplicate

Do you wait for the trub to settle, dump the ball, reinstall,open valve, pitch yeast and still have yeast on the V?

 

[bembel]

Why do you have yeast above the ball? Is it full? Or is the valve closed?
I have been waiting several hours before pitching yeast so trub collects in the ball, I can dump and collect clean yeast, dumb **** me or maybe drunken me forgot to open the valve after dumping the trub so the yeast collected in the v,open the valve and it didn't look like any thing moved but over the next few days all the yeast has moved into the collection ball.

I am finding that the trub closes off the narrow opening, and prevents solids to settle in the ball. Try NOT attaching the ball and waiting a few hours B4 you pitch, then purge the solids using the hose, attach a clean ball and pitch

 

[mxstar21]

Do you wait for the trub to settle, dump the ball, reinstall,open valve, pitch yeast and still have yeast on the V?

I have only used mine once, and I filled from the brew kettle to the fermenter with the valve open. I had wort in the bottom and trub above the valve. I had to close valve, dump the ball and reattach. When I opened the valve the rising air disturbed the trub enough to fill the ball. I dumped the yeast, but I had a good amount in the ball and it was clear what was yeast and what was trub.

Next time, I am going to leave the valve closed until primary is over and then open the valve. The trub teemed to stick to the sides and not go into the ball.

My batch had a ton of trub and I left it in during primary. I was actually worried my yield would be very low. The yeast ate a lot of it up, and I had mostly yeast leftover.

For a $100, it is working pretty good so far, I just need to learn some tricks on using this thing.

 

[mxstar21]

I am finding that the trub closes off the narrow opening, and prevents solids to settle in the ball. Try NOT attaching the ball and waiting a few hours B4 you pitch, then purge the solids using the hose, attach a clean ball and pitch

That sounds like a good idea to try.

 

[redwing_al]

That sounds like a good idea to try.

my last brew, I didnt even attach the c-ball until fermentation was complete (or close). I have another brew going now and will do the same thing.

 

[rmchair]

Is anyone else having leak problems at the union fitting? On my third batch now, and even with teflon the leak is getting worse. Guess I need to buy a new fitting...I tightened it as hard as I could with some big channel locks, but any tighter and I'm afraid I'll break something. I've had no other issues though, it's been working great. The Hef from the first batch came out nicely!

I'll defer to any plumbers, but that tape strips down off the threads if you over tighten and you definitely risk cracking the plastic. I was having trouble and ran out of the tape they provided. I used some other tape I had and triple layered it hand tight and no leaks so far.

 

[mxstar21]

my last brew, I didnt even attach the c-ball until fermentation was complete (or close). I have another brew going now and will do the same thing.

Yeah, that was what I was thinking. I was surprised how much trub I had initially, but it really compacted once fermentation started. So far I am really happy with even with the few problems I encountered.

 

[rmchair]

Okay answered my own questions- they make a 1/2 inch spring bottle filler that should fit the hose. Also, the vessel keeps out 90% of light, but if you are worried about getting Corona, cover it with a towel or dark trashbag.

 

[JAG107]

Have you used a file or sandpaper to remove the flash left over between the mold half before taping?

No I haven't, but it's not leaking from where the union screws into the fermenter, it's leaking from where the union fitting screws together.

 

[jbb3]

No I haven't, but it's not leaking from where the union screws into the fermenter, it's leaking from where the union fitting screws together.

Did you check to make sure the rubber o-ring is in place on the bottom of the value? If that o-ring is not there it won't seal.
Some folks, including me, had the o-ring stick to another fitting when changing the collection ball.

 

[JAG107]

Did you check to make sure the rubber o-ring is in place on the bottom of the value? If that o-ring is not there it won't seal.
Some folks, including me, had the o-ring stick to another fitting when changing the collection ball.

Yeah the O ring is there, I checked before hooking it up, just weird that it's still leaking with all the tape plus how tight it is.

 

[jbb3]

Yeah the O ring is there, I checked before hooking it up, just weird that it's still leaking with all the tape plus how tight it is.

That's just it. You don't use teflon tape where the two union fittings connect. The o-ring should seal if it's in place and not torn or deformed in some way. You could try getting some keg lube or other food safe lube and apply a thin coat on the o-ring.

Are you sure it's not leaking where the valve screws onto the bottom of the conical??

 

[JAG107]

That's just it. You don't use teflon tape where the two union fittings connect. The o-ring should seal if it's in place and not torn or deformed in some way. You could try getting some keg lube or other food safe lube and apply a thin coat on the o-ring.

Are you sure it's not leaking where the valve screws onto the bottom of the conical??

I'm absolutely certain it's leaking at the middle of the union. Next time I will lube up those threads and skip the tape right there. I did tape the bottom of the conical carefully and it is definitely not dripping from there. On the plus side, this appears to be a problem with the manufacture of the union fitting, so no discredit to the FF makers themselves on this issue. I just cranked it down a bit more with the channel locks and the leak has slowed down quite a bit. I grabbed the upper part of the union with another pair so it didn't put any strain on the conical threads. I think I'm going to switch everything over to camlocks (which is what FF originally advertised with the product before they shipped any), that should seal the ball better and be much easier to change out balls.

 

[jbb3]

I'm absolutely certain it's leaking at the middle of the union.

I thought so but had to ask...

Next time I will lube up those threads and skip the tape right there.

Actually, you don't need lube the threads, just the rubber o-ring in the bottom union fitting.



Good luck!!

 

[bembel]

Brewed another all grain batch on Sat, used Whirlflock so there was a TON of sediment, filled FastFerment with no ball attached, waited an hour and then purged about a liter of sediment, waited another hour and repeated. Finally got rid of all sediment, attached ball and pitched yeast. In all, I probably removed about a gallon of heavy sediment wort before I pitched, I decided to to to re-claim some of this 'dirty wort' so I filtered it with a super fine mesh raking cane filter and replaced about half a gallon back into the fastferment, net loss 64 oz, but NO SEDIMENT.

Pitched my yeast, Bubbling SOLID after 12 hours, fascinating thing, I have a carboy of older beer stuck at 1.02 and I thought, same yeast, ill disconnect the collection ball, pour a few ozs into the stuck ferment and see if that will re-start it.

As soon as I closed the valve to remove the collection ball, the airlock activity stopped, I played with it, open and closed, closed, no bubbles, open = bubbles

SO

If you purge all the sediment before pitching, the fermentation ( at least for Wyeast 3056 ) really does concentrate down in the collection ball at first right over the trub that forms.

If you don't purge, you get a yeast / sediment cake above the valve which defeats the intended purpose of the collection ball.

 

[jleiii]

I am finding that the trub closes off the narrow opening, and prevents solids to settle in the ball. Try NOT attaching the ball and waiting a few hours B4 you pitch, then purge the solids using the hose, attach a clean ball and pitch

I did my second batch recently and used this approach. I attached the hose barb fitting and drained the trub directly into a separate container. This prevents any bubbles from disturbing the trub in the cone, and is VERY unlikely to have issues with clogging. Even with a 1/2" tube, and small airlock hole, it was a very aggressive drain. I did it 4 or 5 bursts allowing the trub to settle again in between.

Then I made the mistake of attaching the ball and not opening the valve right away. When I did open it I tried to throttle it, but even so created enough disturbance to cause huge volumes of CO2 to be released and eventually caused a krausen volcano. After getting that under control I opened it far enough to allow a bare trickle into the ball until it was full, then opened it fully.

This is an ongoing learning experience!

 

[bembel]

I did my second batch recently and used this approach. I attached the hose barb fitting and drained the trub directly into a separate container. This prevents any bubbles from disturbing the trub in the cone, and is VERY unlikely to have issues with clogging. Even with a 1/2" tube, and small airlock hole, it was a very aggressive drain. I did it 4 or 5 bursts allowing the trub to settle again in between.

Then I made the mistake of attaching the ball and not opening the valve right away. When I did open it I tried to throttle it, but even so created enough disturbance to cause huge volumes of CO2 to be released and eventually caused a krausen volcano. After getting that under control I opened it far enough to allow a bare trickle into the ball until it was full, then opened it fully.

This is an ongoing learning experience!

Ongoing indeed, but all the collective knowledge is a real help!

If you let the initial wort solids settle and then purge them using the hose until you get clear wort, then attach the collection ball and pitch, you wont end up with any bottlenecks and the trub from the yeast, after pitching, will collect in the ball and not the neck, at least it does with Wyeast 3056 and 3068. I don't worry about the air from the empty collection ball disturbing anything since its just adding a little O2 to help with the initial fermentation.

What amazed me was that after 24 hours I could literally close off the valve to the ball and stop the bubbling, indicating that all of the really active fermentation was going on below the valve and inside the ball. This was a surprise, I assumed the yeast would have been suspended all over the place.

 

[jbb3]

You know, we all want a clear beautiful beer after all our hard work. Especially for sharing with family and friends. But taste still has to be the most important thing right?

I can't help but wonder if purging most all the trub up front, before fermentation has even started, is impacting how the beer ferments out and how it tastes in the end?

Are there any fermentables in the trub that help the yeasties do their thing to finish the beer? Does the trub provide some level of influence on the taste and complexity of the final beer?

Just thought I would throw that out there...

 

[cantrell00]

You know, we all want a clear beautiful beer after all our hard work. Especially for sharing with family and friends. But taste still has to be the most important thing right?

I can't help but wonder if purging most all the trub up front, before fermentation has even started, is impacting how the beer ferments out and how it tastes in the end?

Are there any fermentables in the trub that help the yeasties do their thing to finish the beer? Does the trub provide some level of influence on the taste and complexity of the final beer?

Just thought I would throw that out there...

Conventional brewing wisdom suggests that the trub impacts are undesired.

 

[z-bob]

Conventional brewing wisdom suggests that the trub impacts are undesired.

Conventional wisdom is often wrong. Long term storage on the trub is probably bad. But from what I've read, as long as there is active fermentation going on trub is good for the beer.

 

[cantrell00]

Conventional wisdom is often wrong. Long term storage on the trub is probably bad. But from what I've read, as long as there is active fermentation going on trub is good for the beer.

I don't know either way but I do know that commercial breweries go through considerable lengths to remove it via whirlpool processes.

Maybe they do it for other reasons , I don't know.

 

[jbb3]

Conventional wisdom is often wrong. Long term storage on the trub is probably bad. But from what I've read, as long as there is active fermentation going on trub is good for the beer.

Agree. I wouldn't want a beer sitting on trub for more than 2-3 weeks. But I'm convinced the yeasties chew on some of that trub while they're active. It is surprising how much the trub pile reduces in size and how they clean things up toward the end of fermentation.

 

[jbb3]

I stumbled across an interesting read on the subject in the Articles section of HBT. I was even surprised at the outcome.

Check it out...

http://brulosophy.com/2014/06/02/the-great-trub-exbeeriment-results-are-in/

 

[jbb3]

I brewed a Caramel Amber Ale recipe and used a sanitized paint strainer bag to filter a good portion of the hot break and trub as I racked from the BK into the FF. The yeasties were pitched right away since I was successful in getting the wort down to pitching temps (mid 60s) with the cool weather.

Nine days into the ferment, a collection ball full of trub was dumped. Here it is 18 days into ferment. Sunday will mark 3 weeks in the FF and kegging/bottling day. Will keg the first 5 gal and bottle the rest.

Those yeasties are amazing things...

Cheers!!

 

[CoreyT]

I have a Milk Stout in my FastFerment now. After following some of the advice on here about trimming the leftover plastic on the threads I think this thing is pretty good.

Out of curiosity are people bottling straight from the conical, or are they transferring to a bottling bucket and bottling from there? I am still bottling, so I am wondering what people have done, and how they're getting the priming sugar mix in. I was thinking of just dumping the mix into the conical and then stirring with one of my paddles.

 

[jbb3]

I have a Milk Stout in my FastFerment now. After following some of the advice on here about trimming the leftover plastic on the threads I think this thing is pretty good.

Out of curiosity are people bottling straight from the conical, or are they transferring to a bottling bucket and bottling from there? I am still bottling, so I am wondering what people have done, and how they're getting the priming sugar mix in. I was thinking of just dumping the mix into the conical and then stirring with one of my paddles.

I used a bottling bucket to make sure the priming sugar mixed well. Also, I didn't want to chance scratching the inside of the FF with stirring.

 

[Dade0]

I got a 12 in. x 48 in. Concrete Form Tube from a hardware store for $12. I cut it in 1/2 since I have 4 FFs. A perfect fit. I use them for holding the FF while pouring wort from the kettle or if I need to put them somewhere other than on the wall. They are plenty strong. I do worry about them degrading from getting wet and softening to the point of failure from leeks or spills. They do not allow you access to the valve or anything, but a cheap solution to what seems to be a common problem.

 

[bembel]

I got a 12 in. x 48 in. Concrete Form Tube from a hardware store for $12. I cut it in 1/2 since I have 4 FFs. A perfect fit. I use them for holding the FF while pouring wort from the kettle or if I need to put them somewhere other than on the wall. They are plenty strong. I do worry about them degrading from getting wet and softening to the point of failure from leeks or spills. They do not allow you access to the valve or anything, but a cheap solution to what seems to be a common problem.

You can also just put them into a standard bucket or AlePail, a standard 5 gallon bucket holds it without the collection ball, a 6.5 gallon bucket holds it with the collection ball

FYI, if you ever need to raise or lower the temp in a hurry, fill a 6.5 gallon bucket up with cold/hot water and rest your Fastferment inside, works like a charm

 

[redwing_al]

I got a 12 in. x 48 in. Concrete Form Tube from a hardware store for $12. I cut it in 1/2 since I have 4 FFs. A perfect fit. I use them for holding the FF while pouring wort from the kettle or if I need to put them somewhere other than on the wall. They are plenty strong. I do worry about them degrading from getting wet and softening to the point of failure from leeks or spills. They do not allow you access to the valve or anything, but a cheap solution to what seems to be a common problem.

Can you post pictures of how they sit in those tubes?

 

[GREM]

Bought myself two of these from Tom's Brew Shop before years end to use for ales in our 65-70 degree walkout basement. Purchased the stands, carrying harnesses, & temp gauges. Decided to break them in with a ten gallon batch of Imperial Oatmeal Stout. After a lengthy brew day we ended up with an OG of 1.115 & 5 gal in each FF for a barrel aged project. Pitched a HUGE amount of washed yeast from a previous 5 gal batch of Stout into each & used a blow off hose from each into a 5 gallon bucket. Valve closed & no collection ball. The blowoff from both wort & yeast was so intense; that the blowoff bucket itself started fermenting. Needless to say...it left one heck of a mess in the fermenters. No problem with leaky lid. However...next two batches threw me a curve. Brewed up a 7 gal batch of a Golden Ale. After 48 hrs...no activity. Swirled up the conical & finally got some activity then it died. Three days later brewed up a 1.070 DIPA in the other and again after 3 days no activity. Took a sample from the top (definitely fermenting) & it was down to 1.030. The Golden is close to finished at 1.010. After running across this thread it all makes sense now. Thanks to all of you for the great ideas & experiences. I love these conicals & thanks to the feedback of others I now know what needs to be done to seal the lid as it seems to be the culprit. I'm looking forward to making some suggested changes when they are again empty

As for cleaning & sanitizing...I fill them with a little hot water & oxy-clean & wipe them softly with a sponge to remove the heavy grit. The "Marks Carboy Washer" is versatile enough to wash & sanitize a five gallon bucket as well as Corny's & carboys; so I sacrificed one of my food grade buckets & cut a hole in the bottom & walked away. Works great for cleaning & sanitizing with or without the collection ball...