Fast Ferment leak - glue? putty? silicone?

[stalski]

Hi all, I recently bought/setup a Fast Ferment setup and have finally gotten around to setting it up. While leak testing it I have been getting a slow but persistent leak at the conical/valve interface. I tried teflon tape at 4 wraps no luck, 6, no luck, 8, no luck...14, no luck. Tapered tape (8 up top, 6 middle, 4 bottom), no luck. It keeps coming up the threads at a few drops per hour.

Anyone tried using plumbers putty, epoxy, food grade silicone?

I tried emailing their CS but heard nothing back, so looking for advice.

Thanks all

 

[wilserbrewer]

I would look closely for some anomaly in the valve or tank. Perhaps a mold seam in the tank idk.

While silicon would likely seal it, it shouldn't be needed IMO if the fittings are proper.

Good luck, a bit disappointing you're getting no help from the seller.

 

[Radboud]

I don't have one myself but I hear the threading has poor finishing and is full of mold seams. Once those are cut away it should seal.

 

[Vandulus]

Honestly, I hated using my FastFerment due to the leaks and mess it made when removing the bulb. After 3 batches, I sold it off for about 60% of what I paid for it and bought a SS Brewtech Brew Bucket. Couldn't be happier with my decision 15+ batches later.

 

[Weezy]

If I just bought it, I'd send it back because of this. If CS isn't helping you, try harder and let us know who it is so we don't use them.

 

[Dave C]

I have a fix for you. Had the same issues. Progressively added tape to the conical cone threads. Still leaked. Had tons of wraps, still leaked. Was about to return it.

I stripped it down. Removed all the tape. Every bit. Screwed the fitting on 6 times in a row like the video tutorial tells you.

Then added Locktite Clear Silicone liberally to all the threads. Screwed it down tight. Let cure 24 hours.

Filled it full to 14 gallons. No more leaks

 

[sleev-les]

You need to make sure any of the sharp seams are cut away, but have to be careful doing so to not damage the threads. That's what is probably what is causing your leak. Also, did you twist all caps on and off about 10 times (tighten and loosen) to seat the plastic?

 

[augiedoggy]

I have a fix for you. Had the same issues. Progressively added tape to the conical cone threads. Still leaked. Had tons of wraps, still leaked. Was about to return it.

I stripped it down. Removed all the tape. Every bit. Screwed the fitting on 6 times in a row like the video tutorial tells you.

Then added Locktite Clear Silicone liberally to all the threads. Screwed it down tight. Let cure 24 hours.

Filled it full to 14 gallons. No more leaks

I take it these arent for OCD people who need to disassemble and sanitize all threaded fittings between every use?

 

[Charadrius]

I have a fix for you. Had the same issues. Progressively added tape to the conical cone threads. Still leaked. Had tons of wraps, still leaked. Was about to return it.

I stripped it down. Removed all the tape. Every bit. Screwed the fitting on 6 times in a row like the video tutorial tells you.

Then added Locktite Clear Silicone liberally to all the threads. Screwed it down tight. Let cure 24 hours.

Filled it full to 14 gallons. No more leaks

I had this issue, and was on the verge of using a similar silicon sealant. I checked the spec sheet for the sealant. On the list of suitable materials for the sealant to bond to were 'some plastics'. So I inquired with the customer service for the manufacturer as to whether silicon sealant would adhere to the HDPE plastic that the FastFerment body & threads are made of. They said no. Then considering epoxy, I asked the internet about HDPE; it said 'nothing sticks to it'. I don't question the efficacy for the individual case of our correspondent above. The silicone may indeed fill in the gaps. But I think there is a risk of cracking the seal when working the union valve, e.g. when removing or attaching the ball. So I abandoned that idea. I located from a pro plumbing supply the superior grade Blue Monster brand 1" wide thread tape. Incidentally, I had already shaved down the sharp edges of the threads protruding at the seams as described elsewhere on this thread, which may have actually made the leakage worse. I wrapped 12 times; still a slow seepage. I wrapped 2 iterations of 6 each; this progressively reduced but did not staunch the seepage. I did 12 more -- so that's a total of 36 and change wraps -- and my unit is still holding 6 gallons of water. That's the most wraps I could do without making the threading so tight that I would risk breaking the union valve torquing it on. Thankfully it seems to have worked -- for now.