EZboil, Power Regulator for Boiling DSPR110

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BeardedBrews said:
...
Last note, I think @doug293cz had discussed a 120v option in his control panel. It would let you easily cut back the maximum power of the element without relying on the controller as much.

The most basic approach would be to use a rotary selector switch:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IS7SN2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

It is almost the same size as a 1/16 DIN opening, so that would be a neat fit, and you could swap between 120 and 240 to your element.
Click to expand...
That switch would allow the elimination of one or two contactors (depending on how some other switching was designed) for setting up a two voltage option. On the other hand, the extra contactor(s) solution lends itself to automated control, which is something I want to consider. Decisions, decisions.

Brew on :mug:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
doug293cz said:
That switch would allow the elimination of one or two contactors (depending on how some other switching was designed) for setting up a two voltage option. On the other hand, the extra contactor(s) solution lends itself to automated control, which is something I want to consider. Decisions, decisions.

Brew on :mug:
Click to expand...

I'm right there with you, I love the simple and basic approach when I can, but every time I see someone's automated thread I wish for an extra contactor or three.
 
So far I haven't had any sort of scorching issue while recirculating the mash, so I'm not sure how much swapping between 120v and 240v would help. At some point I probably will stick the PID back in there as a return temperature display, that's a great idea when cooling! Lets me know when the chiller output is at the pitching temp I'm looking for, so I can run it right off into the fermenter from there. I'll need another T, and another RTD... Should have the camlock fitting...

You guys are bad influences!
 
Cool, glad I found this. I was about to start a thread. I've been going back and forth for a long long time about whether to learn Arduino use a PID. I feel like the PID systems can kinda suck because the displays aren't as intuitive to use when setting up alarms, temps, auto/manual, etc. these look much easier to operate. The video Auber made, although the presenter puts you to sleep, makes the product look like running a stove. For those of us that don't really need automation this is perfect! I'm always curious to hear from Bobby M. when he tries out a new product.
 
doug293cz said:
It does cycle considerably faster. The operation mode of the DSPR vs. typical PID's is described in the DSPR manual. RTFM :D

Brew on :mug:
Click to expand...


Ok, thanks. I wasn't quite sure what they meant in the online description when the talk about the burst cycle being one and 100 cycles.
Are you at all worried the increased cycling will reduce the life of your SSRs?
 
Islandboy85 said:
Ok, thanks. I wasn't quite sure what they meant in the online description when the talk about the burst cycle being one and 100 cycles.
Are you at all worried the increased cycling will reduce the life of your SSRs?
Click to expand...

SSR's are specifically designed for fast switching. Unless they are defective (like many counterfeit Fotek's) it won't be a problem.

Brew on :mug:
 
I decided to keep both the PID and the DSPR110. All I need to add was another XLR jack. It'll be handy for a few reasons... Redundancy in case one of them craps out, I can use the PID to give me the temps on the kettle return when chilling/whirlpooling so I know when the runoff is at the pitching temp I'm looking for and can switch it to the fermenter, I can use it like a big sous-vide water bath...

Also, more shiny things and blinky lights.

panel.jpg


plug.jpg
 
Islandboy85 said:
Angrybits, it looks like it cycles on and off way faster than other systems I've seen videos of before. Can you tell us about that?
Click to expand...


It seems to do a very good job at varying the duty cycle to maintain the temperature, which as stated above should not have any impact on the life of the ssr or element.

I think it's more like a smart thermostat than anything else. While you don't see the fractional parts of the temperature, I'm quite sure that it's reacting to whether the temp is trending up or down because you see it vary the output even when the read out isn't changing. Very cool piece of gear.
 
angrybits said:
It seems to do a very good job at varying the duty cycle to maintain the temperature, which as stated above should not have any impact on the life of the ssr or element.

I think it's more like a smart thermostat than anything else. While you don't see the fractional parts of the temperature, I'm quite sure that it's reacting to whether the temp is trending up or down because you see it vary the output even when the read out isn't changing. Very cool piece of gear.
Click to expand...

Your video promises an actual mash test in the future, can't wait to see it!
 
BeardedBrews said:
Your video promises an actual mash test in the future, can't wait to see it!
Click to expand...

You and me both, friend! I disassembled and rebuilt my stand into a 2-tier stand and cleaned some kegs this past weekend, or I might have cranked a batch out. I only have one pump right now and I realized that sparging was going to be a pain in the butt without gravity feeding it.
 
So, I just heard that there is no alarm outputs on these, but that they have an internal buzzer. How does it compare noise wise to a regular 22mm buzzer you'd have with a PID?
 
So I brewed today using the DSPR110.

Out of the box, it worked like a champ. The only configuration I did was turning off the timer function and setting the offsets so that the probe measurements matched my calibrated thermometer. Came up to mash-in temps quick and smooth, no overshooting at all. Held temps rock steady, ramped quickly and smoothly between temps (Did a hochkurz type mash, 147 for 40 mins, 158 for 20 mins, 168 for 10 mins).

Only gotcha I ran into was in my original configuration, I had the temp sensor in a Tee on the kettle valve. This was no big deal, as the only time I needed to control temps the pump was running. The DSPR110 needs a temp probe in the kettle. A little disassembly of the T, drill a new hole in the kettle, a silicone washer, a stainless washer and NPT lock nut transformed my 1/2NPT RTD sensor into a weldless setup. This got me up and running.

Even if you're *not* doing single vessel, this controller kicks so much ass at mashing that I'd recommend it for a recirculating mash tun.
 
The_Bishop said:
So I brewed today using the DSPR110.

Out of the box, it worked like a champ. The only configuration I did was turning off the timer function and setting the offsets so that the probe measurements matched my calibrated thermometer. Came up to mash-in temps quick and smooth, no overshooting at all. Held temps rock steady, ramped quickly and smoothly between temps (Did a hochkurz type mash, 147 for 40 mins, 158 for 20 mins, 168 for 10 mins).

Only gotcha I ran into was in my original configuration, I had the temp sensor in a Tee on the kettle valve. This was no big deal, as the only time I needed to control temps the pump was running. The DSPR110 needs a temp probe in the kettle. A little disassembly of the T, drill a new hole in the kettle, a silicone washer, a stainless washer and NPT lock nut transformed my 1/2NPT RTD sensor into a weldless setup. This got me up and running.

Even if you're *not* doing single vessel, this controller kicks so much ass at mashing that I'd recommend it for a recirculating mash tun.
Click to expand...

I am buying it for mash only. I'm going to build a RIMs system for BIAB but boil with propane.
 
The_Bishop said:
So I brewed today using the DSPR110.

Out of the box, it worked like a champ. The only configuration I did was turning off the timer function and setting the offsets so that the probe measurements matched my calibrated thermometer. Came up to mash-in temps quick and smooth, no overshooting at all. Held temps rock steady, ramped quickly and smoothly between temps (Did a hochkurz type mash, 147 for 40 mins, 158 for 20 mins, 168 for 10 mins).

Only gotcha I ran into was in my original configuration, I had the temp sensor in a Tee on the kettle valve. This was no big deal, as the only time I needed to control temps the pump was running. The DSPR110 needs a temp probe in the kettle. A little disassembly of the T, drill a new hole in the kettle, a silicone washer, a stainless washer and NPT lock nut transformed my 1/2NPT RTD sensor into a weldless setup. This got me up and running.

Even if you're *not* doing single vessel, this controller kicks so much ass at mashing that I'd recommend it for a recirculating mash tun.
Click to expand...


Great write-up, thank you for sharing. I'm definitely going to use 3 of these when I finally get all my 3-vessel setup electrified. For now it's just RIMS tube and then propane for boil, like the person above me.

Family in town this weekend and wife eye-zap surgery next weekend. Sometimes I think God just doesn't want me to have a free moment to make a batch of beer.
 
I'm using this happily on an e-biab setup for both mashing and boil and it works awesome. Mash temps hold like a champ and Once I boil, I drop down to about 75% to maintain a nice boil.
 
Anyone tried this with an eHerms? I imagine it'll work like a champ, just curious to hear feedback!
 
Islandboy85 said:
Ok, thanks. I wish they had put an alarm output. That would make this perfect.
Click to expand...

I contacted Auber about this a couple of months ago. I wanted to change out my Auber PID for this and I wondered about the alarm output because my current setup is already wired for the alarm. Auber told me to wait a few months because they were developing another version with the alarm output.
 
cadibrewer said:
i contacted auber about this a couple of months ago. I wanted to change out my auber pid for this and i wondered about the alarm output because my current setup is already wired for the alarm. Auber told me to wait a few months because they were developing another version with the alarm output.
Click to expand...


excellant!!!
 
Ozarks_Mountain_Brew said:
I bought the first version and have it working, after disabling the timer which is a good idea but I didn't need it, I used it several times and liked it and decided to buy another but their back ordered now till 7/11 guess we all have to wait
Click to expand...


I wonder if the additional alarm output feature would be why they're out of stock tip July? I hope so.
 
So I've written to Auber twice in the last two weeks with no response back in regards to wether or not the DSPR110 & 210 will have alarm terminals added. They have not responded. I just called their tech support line and Verizon has a service message saying its temporarily unavailable. I'm a little disappointed. Really, I would like to buy one of these to save me from having to go through the trouble of learning to code Arduino to get what I want, but they seem to be hard to get ahold of, and their product keeps going on back order. Does anyone know if the latest batch ha an issue and that's why it's now in back order until the 29th?
 
Ozarks_Mountain_Brew said:
have you seen this yet, not sure if the back ordered supply has changed anything but these are available on the site now

instruction manual:
http://auberins.com/images/Manual/DSPR110_manual.pdf

how to video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evfr5Lzl0jM&feature=youtu.be
Click to expand...


Those are the ones I'm referring to. The manual does not show any alarm relay terminals. If you look back in this thread someone mentioned that they were thinking about adding them. I just want to know when.
 
Ozarks_Mountain_Brew said:
so far the alarm is embedded and Ive tried it out, its not too loud or too soft but you need to be at least within 20 feet to hear it

by the way it has a very accurate mash temp setting, doesn't overshoot and pulses pretty fast
Click to expand...


Yeah, I've not seen anything about it I don't like other than the alarm issue. I work on jets, so sometimes I don't hear stuff.
 
This what I received from them today in my email.

"Hi Ian,

Thanks for being interested in our products. Some information for you:

1. We are working on a new version of EZBoil with alarm output, but we don't have a release date. The current version EZBoil DSPR110/DSPR210 will be back in stock in about two weeks promisingly."
 
swimIan said:
This what I received from them today in my email.

"Hi Ian,

Thanks for being interested in our products. Some information for you:

1. We are working on a new version of EZBoil with alarm output, but we don't have a release date. The current version EZBoil DSPR110/DSPR210 will be back in stock in about two weeks promisingly."
Click to expand...


Well [emoji90] looks like i have to wait a while or learn to code.
 
Brewboss or hosehead have greater automation capability. The later is more expandable. For the record I have neither just a pid and the dspr1.
 
swimIan said:
Brewboss or hosehead have greater automation capability. The later is more expandable. For the record I have neither just a pid and the dspr1.
Click to expand...


Both of them are viable options, but more than I want to budget. Plus, I've already got a control panel, and all the contactors, SSR, etc. all I need is the temp probes and controller. I may see if I can find a local guy to help with one if the simple Arduino programs like Ardubir or another. While being able to plot out the mash temp in a spreadsheet or totally automate a mash schedule is totally cool I really need to remember why I am making the switch to electric anyway. It was only to cut down on my propane use, increase the system efficiency, and help make my mashing process consistent. Hose head didn't look too bad though.
 

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