EZboil, Power Regulator for Boiling DSPR110

[Traz1986]

Has anyone used this, been looking at PID's and PWM dimmer hacks, yet this thing from Auber looks perfect for $45

Ramps up at full power and then backs off to a reduced power level for a programmed period of time.

Auber EZboil, Power Regulator for Boiling Process Automation DSPR110

 

[joebob296]

Link for those interested:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=560

I haven't used one, looks pretty handy though because it has a built in timer. Could set mash temp and time, then set boil temp and time.

Edit: This thread mentions the exact model you are looking at.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=576594

 

[Pantherjon]

Dang! Wish I had seen this before ordering my PID controller..lol..Looks like it will do everything the PID will do, plus has a timer feature for the boil..hmmmm, just may have to order one...

 

[Bobby_M]

Well, it doesn't do EVERYTHING a PID does. In auto mode, a PID works constantly to reach and hold a set temp. When in manual mode, it does something similar to the power regulator. As a boil controller, it looks great. In the case of using the same kettle for hot water and boiling, such when you're using a cooler mash tun, I think it could work well. Set the target temp for your strike water and then set the power down to 5% just to hold it there.

What it won't do is work on an eBIAB because it doesn't really hold temps.

 

[Pantherjon]

Well, it doesn't do EVERYTHING a PID does. In auto mode, a PID works constantly to reach and hold a set temp. When in manual mode, it does something similar to the power regulator. As a boil controller, it looks great. In the case of using the same kettle for hot water and boiling, such when you're using a cooler mash tun, I think it could work well. Set the target temp for your strike water and then set the power down to 5% just to hold it there.

What it won't do is work on an eBIAB because it doesn't really hold temps.

Guess I will be sticking with the PID then..Cause that is what I am building is an eBIAB setup..And it looks like I overlooked a couple items, so expect an order for a few bits in the next couple of days Bobby..

 

[Bobby_M]

Auber is definitely being pretty innovative in putting logic and very granular PWM into their little boxes so I don't doubt that they'll have an all in one at some point.

 

[jeffmeh]

Well, it doesn't do EVERYTHING a PID does. In auto mode, a PID works constantly to reach and hold a set temp. When in manual mode, it does something similar to the power regulator. As a boil controller, it looks great. In the case of using the same kettle for hot water and boiling, such when you're using a cooler mash tun, I think it could work well. Set the target temp for your strike water and then set the power down to 5% just to hold it there.

What it won't do is work on an eBIAB because it doesn't really hold temps.

Read the specs more carefully. This one claims to have a mashing algorithm that will hold temp, though it is not a PID algorithm.

 

[SweetStout]

From the Auber description it certainly looks like it would be fine for eBIAB

The EZboil can also be used as a temperature controller for mashing. Its temperature control function utilizes an artificial intelligent algorithm optimized for mashing application. It is easier to understand and more convenient to operate than a PID controller. Regular PID controllers may have overshoot or slow response issues when not properly tuned. However, for most mashing systems, EZboil can hold the temperature within one degree right out of the box.

I'm getting close to finishing a box based on this controller. I'll report back when it is in use.

 

[Bobby_M]

Read the specs more carefully. This one claims to have a mashing algorithm that will hold temp, though it is not a PID algorithm.

Thank you. I don't read so good. I'm ordering one to screw around with.

 

[Traz1986]

Here is my question and answer from Auber. I was second guessing my choice. Jim

Does the Dspr110 have the ability to maintain a set temp if it was set to
say 150. Or would it be up to me to dial in the duty % after it reaches the
set point?
Jim

Correct. There are two modes for this controller. In mash mode, you can set its target temperature, and it will maintain at your target temperature (but you cannot adjust its power output percentage in this mode). In boil mode, you can set its output percentage. By the default setting, once the actual temperature is over the acceleration temperature set point (ATSP),the power output will be automatically reduced to a user-defined power output percentage level (Which is up to you to dial, shown in the bottom display). Here is the original description from its product page.

Other than just manually tuning the output level, a feature that is already available on DSPR1, EZboil has three additional parameters to control the boiling process: 1) Acceleration Temperature Set Point (ATSP), 2) Acceleration Output Power (OUTH), and 3) a timer to shut off the output. The parameter ATSP is a temperature threshold below which the controller will send out high power at a level that is defined by OUTH. Once the temperature reaches ATSP, the power level will be automatically reduced to the setting level displayed on the bottom line of the LED display.

Let us know any further questions.

Kane

Auber Instruments
www.auberins.com

 

[SweetStout]

I got my box working yesterday, did a trial run. The controller is intuitive, and easy to use, and temp maintenance was rock solid. I'm very happy with this choice.

 

[jeffmeh]

Thank you. I don't read so good. I'm ordering one to screw around with.

No worries. When this unit came up in another thread a few weeks ago, I almost chimed in with the "will not hold a set temperature" retort myself, before I realized that it was a different unit than their boil control one.

 

[jeffmeh]

I got my box working yesterday, did a trial run. The controller is intuitive, and easy to use, and temp maintenance was rock solid. I'm very happy with this choice.

Nice. Thanks for sharing the feedback.

 

[The_Bishop]

Seriously.

 

[angrybits]

I have ordered one of these, we report results once I get it wired up and working with my RIMS tube. Thanks to all who have given feedback already!

 

[SweetStout]

I have ordered one of these, we report results once I get it wired up and working with my RIMS tube. Thanks to all who have given feedback already!

FYI, In addition to an integrated timer there is also an integrated alarm. I've got a few batches on mine now and it's pretty sweet.

 

[doug293cz]

FYI, In addition to an integrated timer there is also an integrated alarm. I've got a few batches on mine now and it's pretty sweet.

How well did it do at hitting and maintaining temps with a real mash? Any significant over or under shoot? Did you have to do anything with the tuning parameters? Can you describe the system this is controlling, particularly kettle size, element power, RIMS or kettle bottom?

Brew on

 

[SweetStout]

How well did it do at hitting and maintaining temps with a real mash? Any significant over or under shoot? Did you have to do anything with the tuning parameters? Can you describe the system this is controlling, particularly kettle size, element power, RIMS or kettle bottom?

Brew on

Sure - 15 gal kettle with a 5500W brewhardware element and 1.5" TC. Auber PT100/RTD sensor. Although my system can do BIAB (false bottom over the element) my preference is a cooler based mash tun. I did one batch with recirculating BIAB and temp was rock solid. The timer and alarm were great when in BIAB mode. There is an LED on the controller that blinks to indicate less than full power. No tuning was necessary and whenever I looked at it the temp was usually exactly on (only occasionally one degree plus or minus).

The other two batches I've done so far I used my kettle as a HLT, brought my water to strike, pumped to the MT, then collected back in the kettle for boil. This is my preferred method, but probably because it is what I am used to and my wort looks so much better when I use the MT (I am well aware that cloudy wort is not necessarily a problem). I feel like I need to babysit when it is recirculating whereas the MT is simple and easy. I probably won't recirculate in the future unless I want to do a multi-step mash but I have no doubt the EZboil is up to the task of hitting every temperature step.

When in boil mode just turn the knob to get whatever level of boil you want. Very simple and intuitive.

 

[jeffmeh]

Thanks for the report. Sounds promising.

 

[The_Bishop]

Has anyone tried one of these out yet? Considering picking one up.

 

[srtce142]

Finally got my panel built up with one of these and had the first brew sessions with it yesterday. Short answer - it does what it should. I think I saw the mash temp fluctuate 1 deg over the entire mash. It has automatic timers that start when mash temp and "boil" temp are hit. I didn't use these features but probably will with a little fine tuning. You can set at what temp and how long the timers are.

There are 3 little caveats to the controller.
1)The default setting in boil mode is not a full manual control. It has a temp setting (200f) and if it reads under the setting it will turn the element to full power. This can be turned off if your sensor doesn't get a good reading without recirculating the wort, like mine. Thankfully I didn't have a boil over when I learned this the hard way.
2) the knob seems to have an acceleration to it, so if you spin it too fast you will overshoot your intended setting.
3) I feel the power ramp down is a little conservative. When raising the temp for a170f mash out, it seemed to stall a bit around 166-168. You can tell they've programmed to prevent overshooting; however, this may be something that can be fine tuned with the settings

None of these are deal breakers for me and overall I'm very satisfied with the unit. Sure beats trying to manage mash temp on the stove top

 

[The_Bishop]

Well, mine is on the way. Should be interesting to test it out. I'm a bit tired of screwing around with PID settings.

 

[angrybits]

I'm ordering one to screw around with.

Hey if you want to see it running with your RIMS tube and 120V element, you can check out a video I made of it here: https://youtu.be/moM4Gg89dk8

 

[angrybits]

I feel the power ramp down is a little conservative. When raising the temp for a170f mash out, it seemed to stall a bit around 166-168. You can tell they've programmed to prevent overshooting; however, this may be something that can be fine tuned with the settings

Yeah the default is very conservative. I ended up setting the "oSCr" to -3 to get it to find its mark on a 120V / 1500W RIMS tube. After that it, it was very aggressive but didn't overshoot.

 

[Bobby_M]

Cool. It actually looks like the this controller is better suited for electric RIMS than a traditional PID as far as ease of programming is concerned.

 

[The_Bishop]

Mine just showed up Friday, along with the cover plate I'll need to close off the opening where my PID won't be any longer. Need to hit up Home Depot for a 7/8" round hole cover, too.

 

[doug293cz]

Mine just showed up Friday, along with the cover plate I'll need to close off the opening where my PID won't be any longer. Need to hit up Home Depot for a 7/8" round hole cover, too.

Doesn't the DSPR110 just go in the same cutout as the old PID?

Brew on

 

[The_Bishop]

It sure does, but I have two cutouts. One for the PID and one for the DSPR100. This will let me consolidate the two units into one.

 

[doug293cz]

It sure does, but I have two cutouts. One for the PID and one for the DSPR100. This will let me consolidate the two units into one.

Ok, but why have a PID and a DSPR110? Am I missing something? If you're getting rid of the PID, you obviously only control one element.

Brew on

 

[The_Bishop]

No, you're not missing anything, I'm just fumbling at the explanation.

My panel currently houses an Auber PID *and* a DSPR100, the original boil controller. I have a switch to engage whichever controller I need at the moment. When I install the DSPR110, I'll be pulling both of them out and replacing one of them with the DSPR110 (Boil controller with mashing function), leaving me with two empty holes to fill... One of the 1/16 DIN holes and the 7/8 round hole for the selector switch.

You can see the panel here:

 

[doug293cz]

Got it.

Brew on

 

[BeardedBrews]

No, you're not missing anything, I'm just fumbling at the explanation.

My panel currently houses an Auber PID *and* a DSPR100, the original boil controller.

You could put the old PID in the second hole and just use it as a temp display (wort temp leaving CFC). You could also put a secondary timer there and use the switch to reset the alarm. Or I guess you could just add a cap

www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=568

 

[The_Bishop]

I thought about the temp display, but as far as I know you can't jumper a single rtd to multiple displays. The cap is cheaper than a timer, too.

 

[BeardedBrews]

I thought about the temp display, but as far as I know you can't jumper a single rtd to multiple displays.

Oh, I meant buying a second probe and installing it in an Tee on the outlet of the CFC. It means a second wire to the control box, but from what I remember of your setup the CFC is permanently mounted under the table, so you wouldn't have to mess with disconnects too often.

The panel plug is certainly the most cost effective option

You could also cut the hole a bit bigger and mount a 120v wall outlet on there. Then you'd have a handy place to charge your cellphone, or plug in a fan, or whatever. The hole from the switch could become a 12v cigarette lighter plug.

I know I use my iPad for logging brew day notes, you could incorporate some sort of phone/tablet cradle or arm or mount using that space.


<edit>
Last note, I think @doug293cz had discussed a 120v option in his control panel. It would let you easily cut back the maximum power of the element without relying on the controller as much.

The most basic approach would be to use a rotary selector switch:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IS7SN2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

It is almost the same size as a 1/16 DIN opening, so that would be a neat fit, and you could swap between 120 and 240 to your element.

 

[angrybits]

you could swap between 120 and 240 to your element

I think the settings would be quite different for the two voltages. If I were going to do that, I would have two EZBoils and switch between them. (Yes, I am that lazy.)


But I did like the idea of the PID being a passive display for CFC exit temp. I might do that one myself!

 

[BeardedBrews]

I think the settings would be quite different for the two voltages.

But I did like the idea of the PID being a passive display for CFC exit temp. I might do that one myself!

I find I always wish I had more temperature displays going, glad you like the idea


As far as the settings, it would certainly be different, but my thought was that since you are not "tuning" the DSPR110 it may actually be able to hold a steady temperature even at the lower power output.

 

[angrybits]

As far as the settings, it would certainly be different, but my thought was that since you are not "tuning" the DSPR110 it may actually be able to hold a steady temperature even at the lower power output.

On my experiment the other day, the difference between an oSCr setting of 0 (the default) and -3 (the optimal for my 120V tube) was pretty drastic. I imagine you'd have to deal with either undershoot or overshoot depending on which voltage you optimized for. Or maybe find a middle setting that was good enough for both.

 

[BeardedBrews]

On my experiment the other day, the difference between an oSCr setting of 0 (the default) and -3 (the optimal for my 120V tube) was pretty drastic. I imagine you'd have to deal with either undershoot or overshoot depending on which voltage you optimized for. Or maybe find a middle setting that was good enough for both.

That makes sense, and at the end of the day it really probably doesn't matter. At 240v it should only take less than 15% duty cycle to maintain the mash temp, which should be just fine.

 

[PeteNMA]

I have a panel with two PIDs, one for the RIMS tube and the other for an eHLT

I've ditched the eHLT due to leaks and moved to just brewing no sparge batches, so I've repurposed the eHLT PID to measure the chiller outlet temperature.

I previously used a CDN thermometer mounted in a tee fitting to measure the chiller outlet temps, which works but was hard to see. Having the temp display on the PID is very convenient

 

[doug293cz]

On my experiment the other day, the difference between an oSCr setting of 0 (the default) and -3 (the optimal for my 120V tube) was pretty drastic. I imagine you'd have to deal with either undershoot or overshoot depending on which voltage you optimized for. Or maybe find a middle setting that was good enough for both.

I don't think you can make the conclusion that required oSCr setting would need to be very different for 120V vs. 240V by only testing at 120V. It might be true, or it might not. Really need to test at both to see how the algorithm performs. The fact that it seems to hold rock steady once tuned is very encouraging. Also, tuning is much simpler than for a PID.

Brew on