Ran my first mash on ezboil Saturday and it worked like a champ. Can't wait to run all three vessels on them.
EZboil, Power Regulator for Boiling DSPR110
- Thread starter Traz1986
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BeardedBrews
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Any of you guys have thoughts on the $20 to add the 0.1F resolution on the controller by going to the DSPR210?
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=559
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=559
The_Bishop
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You only get that resolution in distilling mode, not mashing mode. I think the firmware is different in regards to boiling, etc.
BeardedBrews
Well-Known Member
Well, that solves that dilemma.
Islandboy85
Well-Known Member
Beernip
Well-Known Member
Got an email from Auberins asking if I'd like to upgraded my backordered DSPR120 to a DSPR300. The DSPR300 comes with two relays for an alarm trigger... Perfect.
The DSPR300 looks pretty sexy from the description, it appears the relays are programmable to the point where you could operate some fairly sophisticated processes.
BeardedBrews
Well-Known Member
Man! You aren't kidding. They didn't just add an alarm relay, they added two brand new programmable outputs and they kept the internal alarm.
If I wasn't tempted to ditch my basic PID before, this looks awesome! I could automatically heat to Strike using 240v and then use one of the new relays to flip a contactor over to 120v when I am over 145.
I took out 2 of my pids and am using DSPR1 for the boil and the DSPR120 for the mash and loving both, they keep a better control and easier to change than a pid, I don't use any alarm or lights so the DSPR120 it fine, did a test yesterday and kept the mash to whatever I wanted up or down using the herms, only tested a few degrees up or down I know water isn't the same as wort
Hey all,
I'm in the process of planning and building out a 5g 120v eBIAB setup where I will likely use my stove top to boost temps for strike water heating and bringing things up to a boil. I dont have easy access to 240v and live in a smaller downtown apartment. I don't know much about electrical work and really like the looks of the small and clean Brausupply 120v controllers. the 120v Brausupply units now come with either a PID or EZBoil controller. Cost is about the same. I am looking at the setup as below, with the heating element to be controlled with a 120v controller, would you recommend the EZboil or PID model based on your experiences? Thanks for any help with the desicion!
10g Spike kettle with custom 1.5" TC ferrules
--TC side pickup tube
--TC whirpool return
--TC heating element port with 240v (for lower wat density) integrated TC elelment from brewsupply
--Second TC heating element port in case I want to go all electric later using 120v and can double as probe port
March pump for recirculation
silicone tubing with camlock fittings
Voile BIAB bag
I'm in the process of planning and building out a 5g 120v eBIAB setup where I will likely use my stove top to boost temps for strike water heating and bringing things up to a boil. I dont have easy access to 240v and live in a smaller downtown apartment. I don't know much about electrical work and really like the looks of the small and clean Brausupply 120v controllers. the 120v Brausupply units now come with either a PID or EZBoil controller. Cost is about the same. I am looking at the setup as below, with the heating element to be controlled with a 120v controller, would you recommend the EZboil or PID model based on your experiences? Thanks for any help with the desicion!
10g Spike kettle with custom 1.5" TC ferrules
--TC side pickup tube
--TC whirpool return
--TC heating element port with 240v (for lower wat density) integrated TC elelment from brewsupply
--Second TC heating element port in case I want to go all electric later using 120v and can double as probe port
March pump for recirculation
silicone tubing with camlock fittings
Voile BIAB bag
Islandboy85
Well-Known Member
Just ordered my DSPR300 and DSPR400! I'd better finish wiring up all the guts so I can hook it all up when they arrive.
this is why I love mine, never happened to me with any pid
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Very curious if someone was able to determine from the instruction how one might set up the relays to trigger a pump. Process alarm? Thx.
Islandboy85
Well-Known Member
Auber said they are still working on the instruction manual for the new products. I would assume it's a very low current relay, so you may want to use it to trigger another relay at your pump that can handle higher amperage. Again, that's an assumption.
Islandboy85
Well-Known Member
Well, Auber certainly didn't waste any time there. That email I got regarding them working on a manual was from yesterday. Bravo!
Thanks for the input! Looks to do the trick!
Anyone else have any thoughts on using the EZ Boil with this setup! Opinions greatly appreciated!
BeardedBrews
Well-Known Member
The ez boil will work great, but if you are planning to recirculate and heat, be sure to get something to hold the bag off the element.
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Any thoughts on whether or not the extra features of the dspr 300 are worth it over the dspr 120? Running pumps whole heating strike water, mashing, and chilling seem neat. Not sure about running a buzzer or extra heating elements.
the 120 has an alarm and buzzer built in, not sure whats different yet other than a hookup to an external alarm system
BeardedBrews
Well-Known Member
If you have anything else in your system that you want to automatically turn on and off based on the programming in the DPSR, then I suppose yes.
The most obvious use is the one Auber describes, using additional elements to heat and then turning them off at boil. If you were limited to 120v this might be useful. You can also program it so that the backup element turns on if your temperature starts to drop too much.
Other options:
At 60 minutes, cut the boil and turn on the pond pump that you're using to recirculate ice water in your wort chiller.
Turn on your basement brewery's exhaust fan automatically once the wort reaches a boil.
Turn on an 8-track player with volume set to 11 playing We are the Champions as soon as your boil is finished.
I can get on board with this.
Islandboy85
Well-Known Member
You have two external relay terminals. They can be used to add an additional circuit for running a relay or contractor to run additional heating elements for faster heating, a buzzer, pump, etc. they are able to be customized a little bit from what I understand. I just got my 300 and 400 in the mail he other day, but I've got family in town. I'll mess with it later next week to let you know. I think it's worth the extra couple of bucks just for the peace of mind hat (like all of us always do) you can expand your brewery bells and whistles down the road.
BeardedBrews
Well-Known Member
jeremy2027
Well-Known Member
Is there any advantage of the EZBoil compared to the 2362 PID Controller for a three vessel electric HERMS setup? They are basically the same cost and although I am not very familiar with PIDs it seems like you get more for your money with the EZBoil. Any suggestions?
in my experience with it, but I only have a few brews on it, it holds the temperature right on, no highs or lows
my pids always had a swing up and down
my pids always had a swing up and down
jeremy2027
Well-Known Member
I'm considering just using one ezboil and a dual pole switch for the elements. I haven't quite figured out the best way to set up the rtd sensors in the hlt and boil kettle yet. I was thinking to just use xlr connections and swap them at the control panel when switching elements. Or find a way to rig them up to a switch as well.
Islandboy85
Well-Known Member
Use a $3 three pole double throw toggle switch for switching the RTD probes. Can you solder?
Beernip
Well-Known Member
Where are people getting their RTD sensors and XLR connectors?
Islandboy85
Well-Known Member
BeardedBrews
Well-Known Member
I did a ton of shopping and ended up trying two different options from Amazon to save some cash. In the end I saved very little and wish I had bought the unit from Auber. It comes with everything, including the panel mount stuff.
your not alone, don't buy the cheapest stuff you can find, buy the best and buy it once, otherwise youll have hundreds of dollars of parts laying around not being used...like me
jeremy2027
Well-Known Member
Yes I can solder, just curious if anyone has hooked RTD sensors to switch. How does it effect the sensor and will it the unit need to be calibrated everytime you flip the switch since you are using two different sensors.
the easy boil isn't as sensitive to calibration as a pid, it uses a different on and off algorithm, it pulses so fast my activity light doesn't even change, you do have to set the + or - to boiling but unless you have a temp probe way off from the other I think you'll be good
Here is my setup, DSPR400 running a 15 gallon still for making Gin. I have standard 10A 120v coil relays powered by the DSPR's internal 3A relays. need to put in some circuit breakers to keep magic smoke from escaping, but it works great...
Only using one of the relays at the moment, to turn on the cooling water pump when the vapor temp in the tube is over 160F. I have some uses for the other relay thought up, but no time...
edit - sorry about sideways pics, I always forget to to take them in landscape mode.
Here is the youtube video: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35LrsKcuCgU[/ame]
Only using one of the relays at the moment, to turn on the cooling water pump when the vapor temp in the tube is over 160F. I have some uses for the other relay thought up, but no time...
edit - sorry about sideways pics, I always forget to to take them in landscape mode.
Here is the youtube video: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35LrsKcuCgU[/ame]
So cool
gotbags-10
Well-Known Member
Will that unit do cooling? Wanting to ferment in my boil kettle. New anvil kettle with the ferment gasket. It would be nice to do all 3. Mash,boil,ferment control.
Beernip
Well-Known Member
I'm having issues getting my DSPR300 working with my SSR (uxcell® SSR-40DA-H DC-AC 40A Solid State Relay 3-32VDC/90-480VAC). I have terminal 6 connected to the negitive (4) of the ssr and 7 to the positive. The power light of the SSR fails to come on. I have 120v between SSR terminal 1 and ground but not on terminal 2. Did I get the wrong type of SSR?
