EZ Water Calculator 3.0

[ajdelange]

I'm not sure about that AJ.

Well of course I'm not sure about it either. It is a gut feel guess. Easy enough to check for a malt or 2 of course but I'm not at the home base and don't have any of the stuff I'd need to do an experiment.

My feel is based on the assumption that there are dozens of organic acids produced by kilning and it is these that establish mash pH (along with the phosphoric acid system in DI water and the phosphoric and carbonic in actual brewing waters with any appreciable alkalinity.)

 

[bsdx]

I've been busy tonight
I made a bunch of pH test batches using 115g of grain infused with 0.5qt distilled water at 170F to hit about 153F in a small sauce pot and stuck it in the oven to maintain temp for 10 min. Then I filtered enough for a pH sample with a coffee filter, chilled it to around 65-68F and measured the pH using a meter calibrated with 4.01 and 7.01 buffers which were close to 77F.

Durst Vienna: 5.52 at 67.6F
Briess Brewer's 2-row: 5.45 at 65.0F
Briess Pale Ale malt: 5.47 at 65.2F
Briess Pils malt: 5.63 at 67.1F
Briess White Wheat malt: 5.63 at 68.1F
Briess Pils with 3% acid malt: 5.40 at 65.7F
Simpsons Golden Promise: 5.58 at 65.8F
Muntons Maris Otter: 5.70 at 67.6F

 

[kal]

TH: Can I make a suggestion for future versions?

Since the sparge additions are added to the boil kettle, instead of "sparge water" as in "Sparge water additions", why not call it "boil kettle additions" instead? I think that would make it clearer. I've had a few people ask me now offline about how and when to add the sparge water salts. Most think it should be added to sparge water in the hot liquor tank which is incorrect.

Mash salts are added to the mash when you dough in.
Sparge water additions are added to the boil kettle.

Earlier versions of the spreadsheet actually said:

"Add mash salts directly to the mash. Add sparge salts directly to the boil (not the sparge). "

That info's now gone in version 3, but it's not really needed if the labels are clear enough to begin with.

Kal

 

[jmf143]

I've been busy tonight
I made a bunch of pH test batches using 115g of grain infused with 0.5qt distilled water at 170F to hit about 153F in a small sauce pot and stuck it in the oven to maintain temp for 10 min. Then I filtered enough for a pH sample with a coffee filter, chilled it to around 65-68F and measured the pH using a meter calibrated with 4.01 and 7.01 buffers which were close to 77F.

Durst Vienna: 5.52 at 67.6F
Briess Brewer's 2-row: 5.45 at 65.0F
Briess Pale Ale malt: 5.47 at 65.2F
Briess Pils malt: 5.63 at 67.1F
Briess White Wheat malt: 5.63 at 68.1F
Briess Pils with 3% acid malt: 5.40 at 65.7F
Simpsons Golden Promise: 5.58 at 65.8F
Muntons Maris Otter: 5.70 at 67.6F

TH - whose grains did you use for version 3.0? My LHBS carries Briess and I'm wondering if I should incorporate these numbers into your spreadsheet.

 

[-TH-]

TH - whose grains did you use for version 3.0? My LHBS carries Briess and I'm wondering if I should incorporate these numbers into your spreadsheet.

The majority came from this table (Kai's experiments):

One exception is the 2-row, where general concensus among the people I communicated with was it should be more like 5.7 on average. We figured the Rahr might be acidulated (thus the note on the spreadsheet). In my own experience the 5.7 gives me accurate results, and I use Briess 2-row also. I was a bit suprised to see bsdx get 5.45 in his experiment. So without a few more tests I'm not sure what to tell you at this point.

 

[400d]

I need your opinion on this water profile:

Starting Water Profile:
(Ca ppm) 68.54
(Mg ppm) 6.32
(Na ppm) 2.82
(Cl ppm) 5.00
(SO4 ppm) 37.95
(HCO3 ppm) 207.4

I added 2.8 g of CaCl2 and 3 g of MgSO4 to get these values:

(Ca ppm) 119
(Mg ppm) 25
(Na ppm) 2.82
(Cl ppm) 95
(SO4 ppm) 116
Cl/SO4 = 0,82 (balanced)

I also added 3 ml of lactic acid to get my ph to 5.52

the grain bill is 96% base pale ale malt + 4% crystal.

do you think it's ok for english bitter with IBU 36?

do you have any suggestions, what would you change here? thank you!

 

[kal]

For bitter beers I tend to try and target Randy Mosher's ideal Pale Ale numbers with slightly less Sulphate:

Ca=110, Mg=18, Na=16, Cl=50, S04=275

But that's just me. An english style bitter won't have the hops in your face quite as much as a (say) an American IPA or APA so your numbers would likely make a very pleasant beer.

Kal

 

[-TH-]

TH: Can I make a suggestion for future versions?

Since the sparge additions are added to the boil kettle, instead of "sparge water" as in "Sparge water additions", why not call it "boil kettle additions" instead? I think that would make it clearer. I've had a few people ask me now offline about how and when to add the sparge water salts. Most think it should be added to sparge water in the hot liquor tank which is incorrect.

Mash salts are added to the mash when you dough in.
Sparge water additions are added to the boil kettle.

Earlier versions of the spreadsheet actually said:



That info's now gone in version 3, but it's not really needed if the labels are clear enough to begin with.

Kal

Good suggestion Kal. There seems to be confusion no matter what, but I think your right it is probably least confusing if I label as you suggest. Thanks for the input...

 

[kal]

No problems. Part of the obsessive/compulsive part of me that likes to try and make things as clear as possible whenever possible. I'm surprised I didn't notice it earlier.

Kal

 

[400d]

I need your opinion on this water profile:

Starting Water Profile:
(Ca ppm) 68.54
(Mg ppm) 6.32
(Na ppm) 2.82
(Cl ppm) 5.00
(SO4 ppm) 37.95
(HCO3 ppm) 207.4

I added 2.8 g of CaCl2 and 3 g of MgSO4 to get these values:

(Ca ppm) 119
(Mg ppm) 25
(Na ppm) 2.82
(Cl ppm) 95
(SO4 ppm) 116
Cl/SO4 = 0,82 (balanced)

I also added 3 ml of lactic acid to get my ph to 5.52

the grain bill is 96% base pale ale malt + 4% crystal.

do you think it's ok for english bitter with IBU 36?

do you have any suggestions, what would you change here? thank you!

I just have a question. Friend told me that I have too much bicarbonates here and that I should lower it down for this style... I wonder why isn't there a HCO3 level in the calculator in the results, after diluting with RO water?

 

[1971hemicuda]

ok...here's a dumb question. (Ok, no such thing as a dumb question, just a dumb user)

I've read through ALOT of this thread. Not everything, but alot. TONS of really great information here...enough so that i'm going to start treating my water and see the results!

Anyways...the question...

where do flaked grains fit in? If i'm making a beer that's more than 50% flaked wheat...is that "base malt other"?

 

[Prymal]

So biscuit malt is a lightly roasted malt around 25 or 30 L does it still fall under the roast/toasted category? All of your examples are really dark roasts.

 

[mabrungard]

From my read of grain acidity vs. color that Kai Troester came up with, a malt shouldn't be considered 'roasted' until the color is greater than 200L. Below that color, I would treat it as a base malt or crystal malt with its reported color rating.

 

[BigTerp]

So a quick question for you water genius'. I'm brewing a pale ale. To get my mash water in the proper pH and approiate overall mineral content I'm dilluting my mash water with 50% distilled and adding 6 grams of gypsum, 4 grams of cal. chlr. and 1 gram of epsom salt. I'll be only adding a tiny bit of lactic acid to my sparge water to get the pH down from 7.6. The calculator estimates my RA to be around negative(-)100. Is this something I need to be concerend about/worry about messing with?? I have a decent understanding of mash pH and mineral compostion but RA has been a confusing topic for me.

 

[ajdelange]

So a quick question for you water genius'. I'm brewing a pale ale. To get my mash water in the proper pH and approiate overall mineral content I'm dilluting my mash water with 50% distilled and adding 6 grams of gypsum, 4 grams of cal. chlr. and 1 gram of epsom salt. I'll be only adding a tiny bit of lactic acid to my sparge water to get the pH down from 7.6. The calculator estimates my RA to be around negative(-)100. Is this something I need to be concerend about/worry about messing with?? I have a decent understanding of mash pH and mineral compostion but RA has been a confusing topic for me.

I'd be concerned about an RA of -100 if it's really the RA of the water. That would imply hardness of at least 350 ppm as CaCO3 in water with no alkalinity. In alkaline water the hardness would have to be even higher. That's a lot of minerals - suitable for some beers but unsuitable for others. The reason I say "if it's really the RA of the water" is that some of the spreadsheets do funny things in RA calculation when acids are involved. RA is formally defined as the alkalinity minus the total hardness divided by 3.5. It is a measure that was intended for the comparison of brewing waters. If you add acid to water the RA does change but there is also a pH shift. Many of the spreadsheets don't account for that. Unfortunately when I bought a new laptop I had to "upgrade" to a newer version of Excel which will not open the current version of the EZ spreadheet so I can't say more than this.

Looking at the earlier part of the post: diluting with DI water and adding minerals are pushing on the one hand and pulling on the other so you would need to be more specific about what you are starting with and where you are trying to end up if you want more specific comments.

 

[BigTerp]

First of all if -TH- doesn't want me clogging up his thread with this let me know and I'll start another

Thanks for the response ajdelange. Below is my initial water report. It is well water FWIW.

pH 7.6
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 211
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.35
Cations / Anions, me/L 4.0 / 4.1
ppm
Sodium, Na 3
Potassium, K < 1
Calcium, Ca 51
Magnesium, Mg 16
Total Hardness, CaCO3 194
Nitrate, NO3-N 1.3 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S 4
Chloride, Cl 5
Carbonate, CO3 < 1
Bicarbonate, HCO3 221
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 181
Total Phosphorus, P 0.59
Total Iron, Fe < 0.01

I'm brewing EdWorts Haus Pale Ale. Which includes 8 lbs pale, 2lbs. Vienna and 1/2lb. Crystal 10L. Based on my boil off rate, MLT dead space and grain absorption I'll be using 4 gallons of strike water and 4.25 gallons of sparge water (batch sparge). When I punch these numbers into the EZWater spreadsheet I get an estimated mash pH of 5.8. So to lower my pH I added 50% distilled to my strike water. This gives me a mash pH of 5.72 and also lowers my overall mineral compostion to much according to the spreadsheet and research I did with Bru'n Water.
Ca-39
Mg-12
Na-2
Cl-4
SO4-9
So to further lower mash pH and up my mineral compostion to the desired levels I added the following ONLY TO THE STRIKE WATER.
Gypsum-8 grams
Calcium Chloride-4 grams
Epsom Salt-2 grams

This gives me an estimated mash pH of 5.56 with a RA of -77. Resulting in a more style desirable mineral profile of:
Ca-132
Mg-18
Na-2
Cl-66
SO4-177

I understand what your saying about pushing/pulling with the adding of DI water. But if I use straight tap water I actually end up using more salts to get my pH down to even close to acceptable ranges.

Maybe I'm WAY off base with all of this, and if so please let me know.

My only other concern is the Na content seems a bit low. Problem?

The only additions I plan to add to the sparge water is a bit of lactic acid to lower the pH from 7.6. What pH shoud I be shooting for and about how much lactic acid do I need for the 4.25 gallons of sparge water I'll be using?

 

[ajdelange]

The thing that is eating your lunch is the high bicarbonate (alkalinity) and dilution with RO is an excellent way to get rid of (or reduce) that - so far so good. But it also reduced everything else i.e. 1:1 dilution cuts alkalinity in half but it also cuts hardness (calcium, magnesium) in half and chloride and sulfate. For example, many, if not most, think calcium at 25 mg/L is too little and certainly if you want traditional British hop character cutting the sulfate back to 6 (it is originally 3 x 4 = 12 because Ward Labs reports it "as sulfur") isn't going to give you that. Dilution followed by supplementation with calcium chloride and calcium sulfate is the way to get calcium, sulfate and chloride to higher levels with lower alkalinity. But trying to control mash pH with calcium will result in very high calcium levels because it takes 3.5 equivalents of calcium to combat one equivalent of alkalinity. Mash pH should be controlled by acid - not calcium. The acid traditionally came from dark or roast malts but in modern brewing in Britain it comes from a mix of hydrochloric and sulfuric acids sold as "CRS" (carbonate reducing solution). In the rest of Europe and in the US it comes from acidulated malt or lactic acid. Most beers, with the exception of quite dark ones, require acid in some form. I personally prefer the acidulated malt because it's so easy to measure and calculate: 1 % of grist for each 0.1 pH mash reduction. It's not exactly traditional in British brewing but it works. Others prefer lactic acid or phosphoric acid. Both of these are available in food grade at better homebrew shops. CRS is not, AFAIK, available outside Britain.

If you want those high levels of mineral in your beer there is nothing wrong with having them. I personally don't like beers with a strong mineral flavor but I'm not everyone. I do always suggest trying brews with acids and lower mineral levels because there is a good chance you will prefer them that way.

 

[BigTerp]

If you want those high levels of mineral in your beer there is nothing wrong with having them. I personally don't like beers with a strong mineral flavor but I'm not everyone. I do always suggest trying brews with acids and lower mineral levels because there is a good chance you will prefer them that way.

I have no other evidence for my mineral levels other than what I have researched from Palmer and Bru'n Water. The levels I was shooting for came from the Pale Ale desirable water profile from Bru'n Waters spreadsheet.

Not saying it is right or wrong, I still have a TON to learn about water chemistry. Is there other resources you would reccommend for mineral composition information??

 

[ajdelange]

I believe (which means it's just a feeling I'm getting) that the general philosophy regarding brewing water treatment is changing from "match the water that the style was originally brewed with" to "use the softest water you can consistent with mineral levels that support yeast health and any particular desired mineral characteristics". The former approach was the only approach (other than "do nothing - just brew with the water you have" for years and is the reason for the proliferation of spreadsheets most of which come with example profiles for various styles. It's not a bad approach. At least you know that your Pils won't come out with the mineral characteristics of an Export but there is something to be said for the other approach which is to start with very soft water, add a little calcium carbonate and brew again and again tweaking the levels of chloride and sulfate until you get the best tasting beer (or beer which is "best" by whatever your criterion of optimality may be). It's entirely possible that you can make, for example, a better tasting Irish Stout with tailored water than can be made with Dublin water. It's probable that what Guiness brews today is done that way rather than trying to copy Dublin water (but this is no more than a guess). The result may be better tasting but less authentic than Guiness and you need to decide, if that's the case, which you want.

The caveat that goes with the match-the-profile approach is that many of the published profiles are bogus in the sense that they are not physically realizable. At least one of the spreadsheets, Bru'n Water, has profiles which have been corrected so that they are physically realizable and others may have done the corrections as well.

 

[mabrungard]

I generally agree with AJ on the philosophy of keeping brewing water ion concentrations relatively low under many conditions. I diverge from that position where distinct flavor enhancement for certain styles can be obtained by bumping up certain ion concentrations.

Last weekend I had the opportunity to taste an American Pale Ale that helps reinforce my contention. That APA was brewed by a new all grain brewer using distilled water with NO mineral additions. It was a clean beer with no obvious fermentation faults. The problem was that the beer was lacking any character that I consider a key to the style. Bland, slightly tart, no hop distinction. Sure there are other factors beside water chemistry that can also contribute to that lack of character, but this example does raise the spector of water chemistry as a culprit.

The modestly mineralized Pale Ale water profile included in Bru'n Water apparently has its genesis (at least in part) from Randy Mosher. It is a substantial step back from the extremely mineralized Burton profile but it still does add the 'pop' that a good pale ale should have.

Elevated flavor ions do have a place in brewing in some styles. The bitterness and tartness from magnesium, the roundness from sodium and chloride, the hop sharpness from sulfate. All have their effect, but a good brewer should know not to over do it. As AJ mentions above, duplicating a water profile from a historic brewing center might not produce the best tasting beer and more typically, lower ion concentrations prove to make better tasting beer.

 

[ajdelange]

I generally agree with AJ on the philosophy of keeping brewing water ion concentrations relatively low under many conditions. I diverge from that position where distinct flavor enhancement for certain styles can be obtained by bumping up certain ion concentrations.

I don't really think there is much divergence of opinion here. An Export wouldn't be an Export (IMO) without the mineral snap (except that I notice that the most recent edition of the BJCP guidelines has dropped mention of this so I guess we need to emphasize the IMO). A British ale wouldn't be a British ale without the sulfate (but it seems to me that even the classic of classics, Bass, is now brewed with much lower mineral content than it was). It's things like this that make me inclined to think the industry/hobby is moving towards softer water brews.

The point I really want to make is that brewers should strive to optimize according to their own optimality criterion (better tasting vs. more authentic vs. sells better vs. preferred by friends vs...), not mine or that of anyone else except, of course, if that criterion is maximum ribbons taken at BJCP competitions they had better adhere to BJCP guidelines.

 

[BigTerp]

I appreciate the input on mineral composition. I plan to shoot for somewhere in the middle/lower end of the bru'n water style profile and adjust based on taste for future batches.

 

[kincade]

TH: Can I make a suggestion for future versions?

Since the sparge additions are added to the boil kettle, instead of "sparge water" as in "Sparge water additions", why not call it "boil kettle additions" instead? I think that would make it clearer. I've had a few people ask me now offline about how and when to add the sparge water salts. Most think it should be added to sparge water in the hot liquor tank which is incorrect.

Mash salts are added to the mash when you dough in.
Sparge water additions are added to the boil kettle.

Earlier versions of the spreadsheet actually said:



That info's now gone in version 3, but it's not really needed if the labels are clear enough to begin with.

Kal

Kal, just caught this post and realized ive been doing this wrong... So sparge water additions and lactic acids are added to hlt prior to sparging and doughing in, and mash additions are added diectly to mash and not the hlt prior to mash?

 

[pickles]

What Kal is saying is that mash additions go directly into mash (with dough in water mixed in) and sparge additions go into the bk after mashing.

 

[Yooper]

What Kal is saying is that mash additions go directly into mash (with dough in water mixed in) and sparge additions go into the bk after mashing.

Except for the lactic acid in the sparge water, of course! If you're using lactic acid to adjust the pH of the sparge water, the lactic acid will go into the HLT with the sparge water.

I don't use sparge additions, but I do treat my sparge water with 5 ml of lactic acid as I have alkaline water. The "mash" additions go into the mash to adjust the pH. If you have more additions, called the "sparge" additions for flavor (which I never use), those go into the BK.

 

[kal]

Except for the lactic acid in the sparge water, of course! If you're using lactic acid to adjust the pH of the sparge water, the lactic acid will go into the HLT with the sparge water.

I don't use sparge additions, but I do treat my sparge water with 5 ml of lactic acid as I have alkaline water. The "mash" additions go into the mash to adjust the pH. If you have more additions, called the "sparge" additions for flavor (which I never use), those go into the BK.

Yes - exactly right. Hopefully someone should know that to lower sparge water pH you have to add it to the sparge water. But it would be best if that was clear too.

I also add a bit of 88% lactic acid to sparge water (in the HLT) to get the pH below 6 before I start to sparge. (Which reminds me... I need to buy some more lactic acid ... I'm running low!).

My water's pretty soft/non-alkaline - usually only takes 2 mL or so in 11-13 gallons to get the pH to under 6. This is a case where you really should use a pH meter to check (at least the first few times). Most city water doesn't change enough over the year so once you know how much you need you don't need to measure every time (I certainly don't).

Kal

 

[kincade]

Yes - exactly right. Hopefully someone should know that to lower sparge water pH you have to add it to the sparge water. But it would be best if that was clear too.

I also add a bit of 88% lactic acid to sparge water (in the HLT) to get the pH below 6 before I start to sparge. (Which reminds me... I need to buy some more lactic acid ... I'm running low!).

My water's pretty soft/non-alkaline - usually only takes 2 mL or so in 11-13 gallons to get the pH to under 6. This is a case where you really should use a pH meter to check (at least the first few times). Most city water doesn't change enough over the year so once you know how much you need you don't need to measure every time (I certainly don't).

Kal

I guess I need to do a little more reading on this. I thought I was doing this correctly, but apparently I've screwed this up from the beginning. For instance, in step 4 it shows under "mash additions" Gypsum, Calcium Chloride, and Epsom Salt, each with checkmarks underneath that say 'adjusting sparge water'. Since the sparge water additions have always read the exact same as the mash, I have always tossed the total amount in my hlt prior to doughing in. I've also tossed the lactic acid in prior to doughing in. Then I dough in with the sparge water, and after the mash I use the remainder of the water to sparge.

So... Let me see if I have this straight now:

-mash additions go directly into mash (with dough in water mixed in) and is done to control proper ph and proper conversion?

-As I use the test strips and dont own a ph meter, the proper usage is to pull a small sample of the mash and water out after doughing in, let it cool to room temp, and read keeping in mind that the strips will usually read .2 low?

-lactic acid is only added to the sparge water AFTER mash to adjust the ph of the sparge water, thus insuring the mash does not shift in PH while sparging? I have tried to adjust to 5.8 on the sparge water to avoid a ph shift to higher than 5.8 resulting in possible tannin extraction.

How does this look so far?

One more question. Is lactic acid ever added to the mash to adjust ph? As I always start with RO water (ph of 6.9) and adjust the mineral content to suit I am sometimes not able to get the mash ph correct with only the mash mineral additions without going drastically out of palmers recommended ranges. In the past I have compensated using a small amount of lactic in the mash while keeping in the recommended ranges. I have avoided using acidulated due to a fear of it affecting my flavor, but after reading last night it appears the lactic can have the same effect.

<sigh>. Thanks for bearing with me, I'll get this yet.

 

[pickles]

Right sparge water ph needs to be addressed before sparging. Kal's right that a meter is needed, lactic acid goes a long way. I use a small 5 ml seringe to dose the lactic acid.

 

[kal]

Let me see if I have this straight now...

I think you got it right. Here's an example of what I do:

- 20 gallons of tap water added to the HLT.
- 500mg potassium metabisulphite (~1 campden tablet) added to HLT water to remove chlorine/chloramine.
- Strike water moved from HLT to MLT. Grain added. Mash salts added. Goal of salts here is to get pH into the right range for proper conversion.
- pH of mash measured. If still too high, add a bit of lactic acid (usually only needed with really light coloured beers like light lagers where I don't add much salts to my soft city water to begin with).
- While mashing I add some lactic acid to the HLT water to bring the pH below 6, preferrably in the 5.6-5.8 range. Goal is to minimize tannin extraction from grain husks while sparging.
- After I've sparged to the boil kettle, I add the boil salts (called 'sparge salts' in the spreadsheet) directly to the boil kettle. Goal of salts here is for taste. Some of the mash salts end up in the boil kettle too when sparging of course so they affect taste too. It's all taken into consideration with the spreadsheet.
- Boil, cool, ferment, package, drink, be merry.

I go into greater detail a bit in my Brew Day: Step by Step guide but that's the gist (grist? ) of it.

Sounds like you're doing things exactly right. Or we're both doing it wrong.

One more question. Is lactic acid ever added to the mash to adjust ph? As I always start with RO water (ph of 6.9) and adjust the mineral content to suit I am sometimes not able to get the mash ph correct with only the mash mineral additions without going drastically out of palmers recommended ranges. In the past I have compensated using a small amount of lactic in the mash while keeping in the recommended ranges. I have avoided using acidulated due to a fear of it affecting my flavor, but after reading last night it appears the lactic can have the same effect.

This is exactly what I do if the pH is still too high. IMHO, lactic won't be tasted when used in small quantities.

Some people chose to use 10% phosphoric acid instead as they say it cannot be tasted as easily as lactic acid. I don't find this an issue issue as 88% lactic acid in the quantities I use (usually 0.1-0.2 mL per gallon at most) simply cannot be tasted even in the lightest of beers I make. I've read that you need at least 10 times the amount before it becomes noticeable.

Some others say that phosphoric acid will precipitate calcium out solution which could throw brewing salt additions out of whack (though likely only very miniscule/irrelevant amounts that will not affect the final beer).

Plus and minuses to both both but in the quantities we use I don't think using either presents any problems. My 2 cents.

Kal

 

[-TH-]

FWIW, I know Palmer says to add sparge salts to boil kettle for the reason that not all minerals will dissolve in the water and may be left behind in MLT, but others (AJ and Martin for example) have said that the only mineral that might not dissolve well is chalk and most of us are avoiding the use of that anyway. AJ mentioned in another thread that he treats all of his water for his session at once prior to everything (mashing, sparging, etc.)

Thinking about all this again reminded me why I took the note off v3 regarding adding sparge salts to boil instead of sparge water. However I do plan on putting some kind of note on there soon to help clear things up but I want to do a little bit more research first.

Cheers!