Extract order of events

[Carrollyn]

Although I've been doing BIAB for a couple years, I want to do an extract tomorrow. I've been looking over some of the method details, and don't know the best route. Boil 3 gallons with half the malt (lme), and then add the remainder (dme) at FO, let pasteurize for 10 min, then cool and top off for 5 gallons (according to Palmers book), or boil the entire malt extract bill with the 3 gallons and then cool and top off, as I've seen listed in other recipes. Is it better to top off and then cool further, or to cool and then top off?

Is there a diff in lme and dme for results?

 

[Hello]

I prefer to heat my water to the temp where I am steeping speciality grains, if there are any, add my hops per the schedule, and then at the last 15 minutes of the boil, I add all LME/DME. Then of course top off water after I've chilled my wort down to about 90F. Usually I tried to keep my top off water in the fridge so it helped in that final wave of chilling.

I am actually unsure if there is a difference between LME and DME for results, except that I was always told I HAD to boil DME for at least 15 minutes.

 

[Sailingeric]

My process. Bring water up to 150 and steep grains, have a home brew.
While steeping, heat another pot of water to about 170 or so and remove from heat and I put my bucket of LME in it so it will help to pour when I add extract, have a home brew. When done steeping grains, bring water up to almost boil, remove from heat, add about half of LME to water since you will need some malt to help with hop utilization, have a home brew. Bring to boil and the add hops per the recipe schedule. When done, remove from heat and add rest of LME, have a home brew. Cool to pitching temp, pitch and make beer and enjoy another home brew for all your hard work.

 

[Carrollyn]

I like all the "have a homebrew" parts of this one!
I'm brewing in front of our LHBS with my club for demonstrations. I like being able to show how easy it is to get started with homebrewing.

 

[kingogames]

I would boil with the DME, and add the LME at flame out.

 

[RM-MN]

Although I've been doing BIAB for a couple years, I want to do an extract tomorrow. I've been looking over some of the method details, and don't know the best route. Boil 3 gallons with half the malt (lme), and then add the remainder (dme) at FO, let pasteurize for 10 min, then cool and top off for 5 gallons (according to Palmers book), or boil the entire malt extract bill with the 3 gallons and then cool and top off, as I've seen listed in other recipes. Is it better to top off and then cool further, or to cool and then top off?

Is there a diff in lme and dme for results?

At flameout the wort is boiling hot. You cannot cool it fast enough to avoid pasteurization as that only takes seconds.

I'd use the DME first as it won't settle to the bottom to scorch during the hour long boil. At flameout you add the LME and if it goes to the bottom it can't scorch there and you can stir it in if you see any when you transfer to the fermenter.

 

[bobbrews]

When I started out, mainly brewing IPAs, I only used light DME and did full volume boils with no top off water. I felt this method gave the best quality. LME was so sticky and messy with a shorter shelf life and a weird taste. I liked the fact that DME was lighter in color. You could toss it in a big bowl and then add it to the kettle while stirring to prevent sticking.

Steep the steeping grains via BIAB in a small pot and simultaneously bring the main volume of water in a separate kettle up to 165-170 F with a tight fitting lid.

Once the steep was complete, I removed the lid from the main volume and dipped the grain bag in the main volume of 165-170 F water to rinse the residual sugars.

I would then brew as normal, discarding the grain, adding enough light DME to hit 1.040 OG at boil start, following this up with a bittering charge in a mesh bag at a full rolling boil, then other bagged hop additions, and more light DME and Corn Sugar at flameout. The extended time the completed wort was held between 140-180 F was the time I dedicated toward the hopstand. I never needed a wort chiller, just a slow cooling ice bath in a deep sink. Once the hopstand had time to do its magic, I would quick cool down to 60 F, oxygenate the wort, and pitch the yeast.