Extract Kit - Full or Partial Boil?

[JoeSTL]

So I'm completely new to all this. Have only done one 5-gallon batch, two weeks ago, which I'll be moving to the secondary this weekend. Even though I still have several weeks until it's ready, I'm already thinking my next batch. I'm going to do another extract kit. I'm using an 8 gallon tall kettle, and I recently got a good deal on a copper wort chiller and a burner. The instructions for these extract kits are always to boil 3.5 gallons of water, then top it off to 5 gallons after it's moved the primary fermentor. Do you think it's better to keep to the instructions or to do a full boil, since I already have the 8 gallon kettle? Are there any negative reasons why I shouldn't do this? Also, if I'm boiling for 60 minutes, how many gallons should I start off with? Thanks for the help. I'm learning a lot from here an online, though I'm not sure if I have the lingo down yet...lol.

 

[flars]

Go ahead with the full boil if you have the equipment to do it and get it chilled to pitching temperature. I would start off with 5.5 gallons for your next brew. You will most likely come up short of a full 5 gallons in the fermentor but careful measurements will give you your boil off rate for following boils. Coming up short and topping off is better than having an excess which would need a longer boil to reduce. Longer boils darken extract more than an all grain recipe would be darkened.

Do you plan the late extract addition technique to keep the color of the beer as light as possible? Not necessary for stouts or brown ales.

You could also join the great debate on whether or not a secondary vessel is needed. I will let the yeast finish the fermentation in the primary and bottle when the beer has cleared. Usually about three weeks in the primary. Sometimes four weeks if I dry hop.

 

[JoeSTL]

Sounds good, thanks for the info. After you mentioned the late extract addition, I read an article on beersmith.com about that. Lots of interesting information, but I'm definitely not ready to make any decisions yet when it comes to adding ingredients or changing methods that are not in the instructions.

Yeah, I wasn't sure why exactly it needed to be moved to a secondary. My first batch, so I'm sticking to the instructions as much as I can! lol Though I did accidentally get some of the 'sludge' from the bottom of the pot in the carboy, so I'm hoping that all settled and it will get even clearer in the secondary.

 

[NSMikeD]

The secondary debate can drive you crazy. I'm with flars on 3-4 weeks in the primary. The more I learn about all the nasties in the air, including oxygen, the more I'm inclined to just leave things be.

When you get around to customizing recipes, you can better allot for sediment by increasing the batch size. In beer calculators/software you can input how much wort you will lose to the kettle so you don't feel compelled to siphon off every last possible ounce.

Keep doing what you are doing (following recipes and reading up) and focus on sanitation, organizing and executing your brew day and enjoying the journey.

One thing you can add if it's not in your kits; Irish Moss. It's a form of seaweed. You add it at the last 10-15 minutes and it helps clear the wort by dragging proteins and other stuff to the bottom of the kettle.

Nice purchase of the chiller. While cooling your wort fast helps clarify the beer and the temptation is to cool that wort as fast as possible, the wort chiller give you the benefit of minimizing agitating the wort and thus exposing it to air as well as providing time for the wort to settle.


One last tip on minimizing the stuff that ends up in the primary. I use mesh bags for the hops. Nice to pull the spent hops out of the wort before transferring to the primary.