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Does Yeast still mix with the beer or do we've to add it for bottling?
From my experience there is plenty of yeast in the beer. Many times I leave my beer in the fermenter till everything drops out of it and it's very clean and clear and also very dead looking. It still carbonates fine.

As I mentioned though, if your ABV is at the yeasts limits for alcohol tolerance you might add some other more alcohol tolerant yeast. SafAle makes a F-2 yeast that they promote for such use. However I haven't used it. Though occasionally I have had some slow to carbonate bottles that took a little longer. So maybe this might have helped.

But the places I normally purchase from don't seem to carry it. Though it is also sold in 10 gram sachet's.

https://fermentis.com/en/product/safale-f-2/
If you see a clump of yeast or trub in your beer in your bottling pot of beer to be bottled, then I'd either remove it or mix it in till it's dispersed.

Oh.. Is there any chance of infection after bottling or there's an alcohol tolerance for bacteria?

IMO, there is always a chance for both bacteria or wild yeast to mess things up. So the less you mess with it and the more sanitary you keep everything, the better.

So always minimize the risk within what ever your set of reason says is needed.
 
Yes, but one that's been used for carbonated drinks, like sparkling water, coca cola, sprite etc. I like sprite bottles because they are green, but clear bottles work as long as you keep them out of the light
Sounds good, will try 👍
 
From my experience there is plenty of yeast in the beer. Many times I leave my beer in the fermenter till everything drops out of it and it's very clean and clear and also very dead looking. It still carbonates fine.

As I mentioned though, if your ABV is at the yeasts limits for alcohol tolerance you might add some other more alcohol tolerant yeast. SafAle makes a F-2 yeast that they promote for such use. However I haven't used it. Though occasionally I have had some slow to carbonate bottles that took a little longer. So maybe this might have helped.

But the places I normally purchase from don't seem to carry it. Though it is also sold in 10 gram sachet's.

https://fermentis.com/en/product/safale-f-2/
If you see a clump of yeast or trub in your beer in your bottling pot of beer to be bottled, then I'd either remove it or mix it in till it's dispersed.



IMO, there is always a chance for both bacteria or wild yeast to mess things up. So the less you mess with it and the more sanitary you keep everything, the better.

So always minimize the risk within what ever your set of reason says is needed.
So, We don't have to mix trub (greacy thing from the bottom of fermenter), beer alone have live yeast in them? It'll carbonate with added sugar.
Noted.
 
People have reported that even with beer in the fermenter for a year there was enough yeast still suspended in the beer to allow the beer to carbonate. Personally, I have only left beer for 9 weeks and it carbonated just fine.

Beer has alcohol which restricts bacteria but its acidity is the bigger factor. You still need to be careful with your beer becuse bacteria are so resourceful that at least one type (acetobacter, the bacteria that makes vinegar) can infect your beer but it needs oxygen, somthing that will be missing in the bottle.
How much head space to be left? I've read fill the bottle till there's bottling wand and remove the wand. The space taken by wand is the space to be left. Is this true?
 
How much head space to be left? I've read fill the bottle till there's bottling wand and remove the wand. The space taken by wand is the space to be left. Is this true?
That's how I have always done it. That much space will ensure the beer doesn't expand to push the cap off.
 
That's how I have always done it. That much space will ensure the beer doesn't expand to push the cap off.
Are there any visual signs of bottle conditioning? Like how will one know it's going fine inside the bottle? Does it form krausen or any foam like the fermenter?🙂
 
Bubbles can be meaningless. We have done brews where there were no apparent bubbling, some bubbles at first then none, some bubble for several days. In a Carboy you can see the fermentation without bubbles as the wort to beer process has moving stuff most of the time and Krudsen. WE never end primary fermentation prior to 14 days for an Ale, longer for lagers. The bung in the top of the carboy can let the CO2 escape around the edges if it is not perfectly tight. We have never had an issue with a beer that did not "bubble" thru the Airlock (Since 2008).
 
Are there any visual signs of bottle conditioning? Like how will one know it's going fine inside the bottle? Does it form krausen or any foam like the fermenter?🙂
No visible signs except that you may see some sediment start to build up at the bottom of the bottle. Giving it 2-3 weeks (or more) at room temperature then testing is about the only way to know.
 
Bubbles can be meaningless. We have done brews where there were no apparent bubbling, some bubbles at first then none, some bubble for several days. In a Carboy you can see the fermentation without bubbles as the wort to beer process has moving stuff most of the time and Krudsen. WE never end primary fermentation prior to 14 days for an Ale, longer for lagers. The bung in the top of the carboy can let the CO2 escape around the edges if it is not perfectly tight. We have never had an issue with a beer that did not "bubble" thru the Airlock (Since 2008).
Here, I'm talking about bottling and bottle fermentation.
 
No visible signs except that you may see some sediment start to build up at the bottom of the bottle. Giving it 2-3 weeks (or more) at room temperature then testing is about the only way to know.
As @hotbeer said, we don't have to add extra yeast in bottling. There is enough yeast in the beer to begin with. By not adding extra yeast is the reason for slow carbonation (2 weeks time).
 
How much head space to be left? I've read fill the bottle till there's bottling wand and remove the wand. The space taken by wand is the space to be left. Is this true?
That's the standard way to fill, but some brewers are starting to change this. Filling the bottle to about 1/2" below the top reduces the oxygen in the bottle, and therefore reduces oxidation. I've been filling this way for probably a year now and it seems to help. But I've never done a side-by-side test. I fill the last bit by pressing the tip of the bottling wand against the side of the bottle. Be sure to leave a little head space because if you fill to the very top, expansion of the liquid can break the bottle.
 
Again I must advise patience.
3 weeks at 72F for bottle conditioning.
You ca certainly try earlier, you will find in time, that leaving them the heck alone is better.
 
You really just need to do it and see what you get. No matter how you do it. Then you'll have some frame of reference instead of imagination that sometimes runs rampant with stray thoughts taking you down many improbable rabbit holes.

Like how will one know it's going fine inside the bottle?
Faith.

And maybe prior experience once you get enough of that.

I usually put one bottle in the fridge about 5-7 days later and let it chill for 2 days. Then I pour it in a glass and hopefully enjoy it. This lets me assess the carbonation level and the flavor and aroma notes which do slowly change all the while it's in the botte.

Also, if your refrigerator is really cold like mine, then you may not notice the carbonation right off the bat as the cold temps keep it in solution better. Let your beer warm up in the glass as you drink it to 50 - 55°F (10 - 12°C) and the carbonation will be more apparent and your beer will have a fuller taste than when right out of the fridge.

Do this every 5 - 7 days till the carbonation is whatever it's going to become and then you can just put the bottles where you want to store them. Warmer temps, the faster the beer tastes and aroma might change, the cooler the slower that might be. Sometimes beer gets better with time. At some point that might go the other way.

Don't worry too much though. Your friends will be happy to drink it all if you let them, no matter what it tastes like to you.
 
 Update
Another week passed in the fermenter. FG is same at 1.003.
Should I bottle it today. 😀
Smells like strong alcohol.
 

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You really just need to do it and see what you get. No matter how you do it. Then you'll have some frame of reference instead of imagination that sometimes runs rampant with stray thoughts taking you down many improbable rabbit holes.


Faith.

And maybe prior experience once you get enough of that.

I usually put one bottle in the fridge about 5-7 days later and let it chill for 2 days. Then I pour it in a glass and hopefully enjoy it. This lets me assess the carbonation level and the flavor and aroma notes which do slowly change all the while it's in the botte.

Also, if your refrigerator is really cold like mine, then you may not notice the carbonation right off the bat as the cold temps keep it in solution better. Let your beer warm up in the glass as you drink it to 50 - 55°F (10 - 12°C) and the carbonation will be more apparent and your beer will have a fuller taste than when right out of the fridge.

Do this every 5 - 7 days till the carbonation is whatever it's going to become and then you can just put the bottles where you want to store them. Warmer temps, the faster the beer tastes and aroma might change, the cooler the slower that might be. Sometimes beer gets better with time. At some point that might go the other way.

Don't worry too much though. Your friends will be happy to drink it all if you let them, no matter what it tastes like to you.
Any reason for 2 weeks in the fridge? This way leftover yeasts will die in the bottle.
 
Any reason for 2 weeks in the fridge? This way leftover yeasts will die in the bottle.
I didn't say anything about 2 weeks in the fridge. I'm not understanding what you are getting at.

I don't really know for certain, but I don't think that yeast die after a certain time period. They just become inactive. The only way they die is for something to rip their cell walls open.

Yeasts have been recovered from unopened beer casks of 200 or more year old shipwrecks on the cold bottom of the ocean.
 

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