Engineered wasted wort

[djonesax]

In an effort to brew clearer beer...

I have always had a hard time getting clear beer and trying to figure out where I am going wrong. I usually always have chill haze at the very least.

One thing I am not doing for sure is fermenting in a cooled chamber. I am at basement temps of about 68. I do cold crash as well and this time I plan to add gelatin while crashing.

I recently upped my batch size from 10 gallons to 11 gallons so that I would have a gallon of acceptable wasted wort. I did this so that I wouldn't feel like I HAD to get close to every last drop of wort from the kettle. I also started siphoning out of the kettle versus the spigot, so I am only taking clear wort off the top as the trub settles. When getting close the bottom I could actually see the coagulation right under the wort level. So previously my spigot had to have been pouring that into the fermenter.

I will know how well this technique worked in a couple weeks but it got me thinking. I did leave quite a bit of coagulate behind in the kettle which felt good but some did get in close to the end. I believe I got a good hot and cold break, and used three wirfloc tablets. I used three because of the larger boil volume. I have been pondering this and was wondering how careful I should be to keep that out of the fermenter?

David

 

[kh54s10]

I have been using SuperMoss. I do not do anything special to limit what goes to the fermenter. If I give it long enough in fermentation and the keg it is clear. The first few glasses from the keg are cloudy, after that they are clear. From bottles all were about the same. Usually quite clear.

 

[Natdavis777]

I think you will like the results from the gelatin. There are two camps on how to use gelatin; add it to warm beer and then cold crash, and add to already cold beer. Ive done both, and prefer the latter.

I use a keg for secondary, so I throw it in the fridge for a few days to cold crash the beer. Then I add my gelatin mix. The cold crash itself will drop out a lot of material as it is, leaving mainly proteins that cause chill haze in suspension. When you add the gelatin mix, it will coagulate with what's left in suspension, and voila, clear beer.




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[djonesax]

I have been using SuperMoss. I do not do anything special to limit what goes to the fermenter. If I give it long enough in fermentation and the keg it is clear. The first few glasses from the keg are cloudy, after that they are clear. From bottles all were about the same. Usually quite clear.

I have done exactly this but with wirfloc and still get cloudy beer until the last pint or two. I cant help but think the pick up tube is picking up some yeast through out the life of the beer. This time I am cold crashing the fermenter before going to kegs. I did that once before and it was better but still cloudy which is why this time I will try gelatin.

 

[TipsySaint]

You can also make a whirlpool so that the trub gathers in the middle of your kettle well away from the spigot. If it's in a clump and you know where it is, then you put your dip tube not there.

Also you can filter, it's pretty easy, I took 3 culligan filters and put them together and can do a coarse, med and fine filter and get it all in one pass if i want a bright beer.

Irish moss and whirlfloc in the BK are deff. good things too.

 

[djonesax]

I think you will like the results from the gelatin. There are two camps on how to use gelatin; add it to warm beer and then cold crash, and add to already cold beer. Ive done both, and prefer the latter.

Wow nice brew, I can honestly say I have never gotten a beer that clear except for the last few pints of a keg.

I plan to cold crash the fermenter for a day or two, add the gelatin and continue to crash for a week. Then do a gas transfer from the fermenter to kegs so I dont have to move the 10 gallons of wort.

If that doesnt get me clear beer, then I'll be drinking it cloudy

 

[Jacinthebox]

Ive done 2 beer with white labs clarity ferm and both beers turned out super clean...like commercial quality clear

 

[motleybrew]

A lot of it depends on consistency in practice

Get a high rolling boiling is the first element.
I do use Irish moss in all of my beers, too.
Then, chill quickly.
Cold crashing isn't possible, nor is accurately controlled (I don't have fancy ferm chambers and whatnot.) fermentation temps. So the key is time.
Once bottled, let condition and then into the fridge.
All of these things contribute to a clear beer.

 

[stratslinger]

I believe I got a good hot and cold break, and used three wirfloc tablets. I used three because of the larger boil volume.

One note on this bit - using more than one whirfloc tab was completely unnecessary. If you read the directions on the packaging, the tabs themselves are good for 10 gallons. Strictly speaking, you only need half a tab for a 5 gallon batch. You just dumped enough whirfloc in that batch for a 1bbl batch!

 

[wilserbrewer]

I also started siphoning out of the kettle versus the spigot, so I am only taking clear wort off the top as the trub settles. When getting close the bottom I could actually see the coagulation right under the wort level. So previously my spigot had to have been pouring that into the fermenter.

I did leave quite a bit of coagulate behind in the kettle which felt good but some did get in close to the end.

Clear beer to the fermenter does not really help provide clear beer to your glass IME. While kettle agents such as whirfloc will help, clear beer is produced in the brite tank, or during cold crash / cold storage?

Are you storing your beer cold for several weeks prior to serving? Given enough time at cold temps, almost any brew will clear nicely.

 

[FuriousE]

An interesting article on the effect of trub from the boil kettle making its way into your fermenter:

http://brulosophy.com/2014/06/02/the-great-trub-exbeeriment-results-are-in/

The short version is the trub may actually help clear your beer.

 

[OhCrap]

An interesting article on the effect of trub from the boil kettle making its way into your fermenter:

http://brulosophy.com/2014/06/02/the-great-trub-exbeeriment-results-are-in/

The short version is the trub may actually help clear your beer.

Interesting reading, I brewed a cream ale a couple of weeks and there was a similar amount of true in the fermenter as the pics in that article.... I've taken gravity samples and it is by far the clearest beer, at this stage, to date.

 

[mkyl428]

+1 to cold storage this will definitely help clear your beer.

I never understood why people care so much about haze though as long as it tastes great I could care less.... Not that I have hazy beers all the time but it doesn't bother me when I do unless it's for a competition or something

 

[SnakeRidge]

Another thing to think about might be calcium levels in your water. I had a lot of chill haze until I got Ca up to at least 50ppm. Seemed to do the trick for me.

 

[MindenMan]

I get my BK as cold as is practical: which basically means, if I have ice I made in the freezer, I will use it in the tub my BK is set into. I rack my wort into the fermenter through two paint strainers, one on top of the other. If I lose 1/4 cup in the strainers, that is more than usual. I used to lose a lot of wort and beer when racking. I hardly lose any at all any more, and my beer is super clear too. I use 1 tsp of Irish Moss per 5 gallons. YMMV, it works for me.

 

[LandoLincoln]

I have done exactly this but with wirfloc and still get cloudy beer until the last pint or two. I cant help but think the pick up tube is picking up some yeast through out the life of the beer. This time I am cold crashing the fermenter before going to kegs. I did that once before and it was better but still cloudy which is why this time I will try gelatin.

If this is a real concern for you, you can simply chop off a bit of your keg pick up tube(s) and leave the gunk behind.

Here's an article about the different types of beer haze that I found useful. Depending on what type of haze you're experiencing, the remedies will vary as well.

 

[Natdavis777]

There is also the Clear Beer Draught System... http://www.clearbeerdraughtsystem.com/

Pulls beer from the top and swivels when at the bottom as to not pick up any yeast. Saw it at the 2014 NHC. Just a thought

 

[djonesax]

One note on this bit - using more than one whirfloc tab was completely unnecessary. If you read the directions on the packaging, the tabs themselves are good for 10 gallons. Strictly speaking, you only need half a tab for a 5 gallon batch. You just dumped enough whirfloc in that batch for a 1bbl batch!

Ok, mine didnt come in a package since my LBS buys them in bulk. I had always read 1 tab per 5 gallons though.

 

[djonesax]

+1 to cold storage this will definitely help clear your beer.

I never understood why people care so much about haze though as long as it tastes great I could care less.... Not that I have hazy beers all the time but it doesn't bother me when I do unless it's for a competition or something

I guess for me its just about perfecting my craft

 

[djonesax]

Another thing to think about might be calcium levels in your water. I had a lot of chill haze until I got Ca up to at least 50ppm. Seemed to do the trick for me.

Good point, if this new process doesnt help I will have my water tested.

 

[CA_Mouse]

There is also the Clear Beer Draught System... http://www.clearbeerdraughtsystem.com/

Pulls beer from the top and swivels when at the bottom as to not pick up any yeast. Saw it at the 2014 NHC. Just a thought

But has anyone actually used this that isn't trying to sell it to the masses? In theory, it looks great, but I'd rather have Joe Schmo's reaction after paying $45 for just one. In my case, buying 8 of these is a bit too pricey.

I prefer to use Whirlfloc, cold crash and let my kegs sit for at least a week to get clear beer. The few small samples I pull while checking carbonation levels, usually pull most of the sediment any way.

 

[Natdavis777]

But has anyone actually used this that isn't trying to sell it to the masses? In theory, it looks great, but I'd rather have Joe Schmo's reaction after paying $45 for just one. In my case, buying 8 of these is a bit too pricey.

I prefer to use Whirlfloc, cold crash and let my kegs sit for at least a week to get clear beer. The few small samples I pull while checking carbonation levels, usually pull most of the sediment any way.

They had them on display and were pouring from them at the convention. I by no means am trying to push the product though. I feel I've perfected my method in getting clear beer in minimal time without special tools, modifying dip tubes, etc. just thought it was a neat invention.


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[wilserbrewer]

I guess for me its just about perfecting my craft

I like clear beer as well, but I have been paying dear money for fresh craft beer at the pub that often has a haze...kind of put it into perspective for me..
I keg, keep it cold and with time even wheat beers clear...


Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/

 

[mkyl428]

I like clear beer as well, but I have been paying dear money for fresh craft beer at the pub that often has a haze...kind of put it into perspective for me..
I keg, keep it cold and with time even wheat beers clear...

+1 That was my point I buy hazy craft beer all the time, it's still great beer. As long as it tastes great I wouldn't worry too much about it & if you must worry about it extra fridge time all the way!

I brewed up a Witbier last spring look at the grain bill haze city:
5lbs. 2-Row
4lbs. Flaked Wheat
1lbs. White Wheat
.5lbs Flaked Oats

No whirflock I wanted it hazy, after 2-3 weeks in the fridge even this beer cleared out

Cheers

 

[max384]

There is also the Clear Beer Draught System... http://www.clearbeerdraughtsystem.com/

Pulls beer from the top and swivels when at the bottom as to not pick up any yeast. Saw it at the 2014 NHC. Just a thought

This is a cool idea. I've never really had a problem with cloudy beer, but I do generally have to toss out the first pour from a keg due to trub in my glass. I really do wonder how this would improve beer clarity.

Although I don't mind a cloudy beer, I love looking at a crisp clear homebrew in the glass...

 

[djonesax]

Its interesting reading all these posts because none of them reflect my experience :-(

I have a beer that has been in the keg and fridge for over a year and still is hazy.

The brew I am serving now has been in the fridge for at least 4+ weeks and is finally looking more clear but its getting to bottom of the keg and as I was saying my last pint is always pretty clear. I will say that with this brew I skipped the cold crash and went straight to kegs after a couple weeks in primary, trying the cold crash in keg method but it seems the results were the same.

Recently I have been brewing the same recipe so that I can get a better control over the changes and be able to properly note the different results. Maybe I need more controlled brews under my belt.

Current Brew....
10lb 2row, 8lb, 6row, 3lb flaked maze
Mashed at 153 for 75 min
Boiled 90 min
Used wirfloc
Got good hot and cold break
Cooled 11 gallons to 70 degrees in 27 minutes

Reached FG in 3 days but so far 12 days in primary

Next Steps...
Cold crash for 7 days adding gelatin on day 2
Gas transfer to serving kegs
Force carb at 12PSI for a week
Drink at halloween party!

That will be 2 weeks in the cold before serving.


Thanks,

David

 

[DurtyChemist]

I use super moss both according to directions and the same way I used Irish moss and after whirlpool ing and letting everything settle for 30 minutes I can notice a difference in clarity. I don't have any photos of beers currently but it works. Second option is to bottle and let it sit about 2 months before opening. You'll be amazed how clear beer gets in the bottle if you have enough to let a batch sit a LONG time.

 

[augiedoggy]

Ok, mine didnt come in a package since my LBS buys them in bulk. I had always read 1 tab per 5 gallons though.

previous poster was right, I always break mine in half for 5 gallon batches...

on a side note. I know it rasies equipment costs but recirculating the mash during the mashing process with a herms or rims setup produces crystal clear wort and a hop spyder helps keep most of the trub out of the bk....
I also use a cheap stainless braid cut from a new toliet supply line on the end of my dip tube in the bk which filters out the trub going into my plate chiller.... an immersion chiller would work too though.

If this cloudy beer is extract beer then the trub is coming from the hops and you need to look into a hop spyder.

 

[djonesax]

I know it rasies equipment costs but recirculating the mash during the mashing process with a herms or rims setup produces crystal clear wort and a hop spyder helps keep most of the trub out of the bk....

I dont recirculate with a pump or anything but I do pour the first running back on top of the grain bed.

 

[balrog]

First batches were clear, stayed clear. I bottle condition and then store at 65-68, chilling only sometimes as I prefer English styles. Anyway, the last 5 batches are clear as a bell in cellar and hazy as hell when cooled in the fridge. Only started happening...wait for it...when the weather warmed up and my boiling wort chilling times went from 20m to 40m. Until I get a handle on that I'm not concerned. Happened in different types of beer too. Just my $0.02.

 

[djonesax]

I wanted to update this post and just say that I finally got a clear beer and the biggest difference was more time in the fermenter and more time in cold crash. I fermented for about 14+ days and cold crashed for about 14 as well. Before I would ferment about 7 to 10 and cold crash for about a week. Also on this batch I got lots of cold break into the fermenter since it wasn't setting fast enough. So the keeping the cold break out of the fermenter didnt make a difference in my case since I got a better result when I let it in.

Anyway, as always it seems patience is key as many of you have pointed out.

Thanks,

David