Elements always at 100% power???

[baer19d]

I'll give that a try. Maybe I can squeeze a little life out of the one that's still working.

I think that is generally how they fail, which is unfortunate.

I had a string of failed Foteks until I started crimping ring terminals on my 10 gauge THHN wire. That seemed to provide lower resistance and lower heat.

Chris

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Well, I ended up ordering two Foteks before I waited on the replies to this post, silly me. Anyway, I figured they would fill the gap until I found some better ones on ebay. I received them on Friday, hooked them up, ran a test, and everything worked fine. I'm brewing today and wouldn't you know it, an hour into it and one of them quit working. Luckily I'm still able to brew but it looks like I need to hurry up and fine better ones.

I thought I put up an Ebay link earlier for a Crydom. After endless SSR fails its the only one that hasn't let me down

 

[baer19d]

That one requires AC input so it won't work with my PIDs.

I thought I put up an Ebay link earlier for a Crydom. After endless SSR fails its the only one that hasn't let me down

 

[baer19d]

So far I've been using SSRs that are rated for 24-380VAC output since it's a 240V panel but since only one leg of the 240v (120V) runs to the SSR could I use SSR's rated for 120V output? if so that would make sourcing good ones easier.

 

[passedpawn]

So far I've been using SSRs that are rated for 24-380VAC output since it's a 240V panel but since only one leg of the 240v (120V) runs to the SSR could I use SSR's rated for 120V output? if so that would make sourcing good ones easier.

So, I'm hearing you say that one leg (i.e., L1) goes to the SSR. If that circuit, after the SSR, ultimately returns to L2, then you need 240VAC. If that leg returns to the neutral, 120VAC is fine. When I say returns, I mean after your heating element.

 

[baer19d]

Then I need 240V. L1 goes to the SSR and L2 goes to a coil relay.
They both go to the element.

So, I'm hearing you say that one leg (i.e., L1) goes to the SSR. If that circuit, after the SSR, ultimately returns to L2, then you need 240VAC. If that leg returns to the neutral, 120VAC is fine. When I say returns, I mean after your heating element.

 

[baer19d]

I'm looking at Crydom SSRs on Zoro and the have some that are reasonably priced. What kind of switch does it need to be?

 

[doug293cz]

I'm looking at Crydom SSRs on Zoro and the have some that are reasonably priced. What kind of switch does it need to be?

Output should be rated for 40A at 480V AC. This is a very commonly available size. 25A at 250V AC theoretically will work, but your service life is more likely to be limited, since you would be running close to the max rating. Using over rated components is a common design practice, known as derating the components. The control inputs should be spec'ed as 3 - 32V DC.

Brew on

 

[stevehaun]

Crydom D2440 or D2450

 

[jcav]

If anyone is interested, I opened my panel that I bought from Kal. These were the SSR's that were inside and that they currently use.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=30

John

 

[-CHRIS-]

I'll give that a try. Maybe I can squeeze a little life out of the one that's still working.

I have dozens of brews on my 40amp Foteks, I wonder how many have failed that had crimped ring connectors? I am going to guess very few to none. I think the mechanical crimp provides a more secure connection over thick stranded copper under a screw.

Chris

 

[augiedoggy]

I have dozens of brews on my 40amp Foteks, I wonder how many have failed that had crimped ring connectors? I am going to guess very few to none. I think the mechanical crimp provides a more secure connection over thick stranded copper under a screw.

Chris

I've seen photos of many melted foteks with the crimped connectors myself...

The connectors don't change the fact that many of the clones from at least one supper uses components that are actually only rated for 10amps.theres more than a couple threads on these foteks here and failures and most people use crimped ring or open ended screw terminalswith them.

Out of all the threads I read here over the years I can only recall failures with the white generics and none of the other brands except when the owner failed to install them correctly.

 

[baer19d]

What about the D2450-10? The only difference I see is that the -10 turns on instantaneously and the D2450 turns on at zero cross. Whatever that means?
https://www.zoro.com/crydom-solid-state-relay-3-to-32vdc-50a-d2450-10/i/G2098625/

Crydom D2440 or D2450

 

[passedpawn]

What about the D2450-10? The only difference I see is that the -10 turns on instantaneously and the D2450 turns on at zero cross. Whatever that means?
https://www.zoro.com/crydom-solid-state-relay-3-to-32vdc-50a-d2450-10/i/G2098625/

I think for our application that would be OK. If you were operating a motor or any other inductive or capacitive load, it would cause problems due to surges. Probably would kill SSR. But our heating elements are purely resistive.

 

[stevehaun]

http://www.crydom.com/en/products/catalog/series-1-240-ac-panel-mount.pdf

I am not familiar with d2450-10 but the catalog recommends against using it with capacitive loads as pointed out by Andrew.

 

[stevehaun]

Other high quality brands include teledyne, optos, gordos, crouzet

 

[doug293cz]

What about the D2450-10? The only difference I see is that the -10 turns on instantaneously and the D2450 turns on at zero cross. Whatever that means?
https://www.zoro.com/crydom-solid-state-relay-3-to-32vdc-50a-d2450-10/i/G2098625/

Zero crossing turn on generates less electrical noise when used with resistive loads (i.e. heating elements.)

Quiz: Why are SSVR's never zero crossing turn on?

Brew on

 

[passedpawn]

Zero crossing turn on generates less electrical noise when used with resistive loads (i.e. heating elements.)

Quiz: Why are SSVR's never zero crossing turn on?

Brew on

They shift the turnoff to a point in the sine above zero. That's how they control power. I think

 

[doug293cz]

They shift the turnon to a point in the sine above zero. That's how they control power. I think

Almost. FIFY

Brew on

 

[passedpawn]

Almost. FIFY

Brew on

Pedant!

 

[doug293cz]

Pedant!

Guilty.

Brew on

 

[BrunDog]

My bet is your heat sink is inadequate. You cannot believe the difference between the cheap ones which typically come with SSRs and a legit heavy duty one.

 

[augiedoggy]

My bet is your heat sink is inadequate. You cannot believe the difference between the cheap ones which typically come with SSRs and a legit heavy duty one.

while I agree undersized heat sinks or poorly ventilated ones are a p0ssible cause for them failing. (Btw I've only used these cheap heat sinks myself but always used a 12 fan blowing across them with no problems.)
That would have easily been confirmed or ruled out though with the led on the SSR

 

[doug293cz]

while I agree undersized heat sinks or poorly ventilated ones are a p0ssible cause for them failing. (Btw I've only used these cheap heat sinks myself but always used a 12 fan blowing across them with no problems.)

Yes, a small fin area HS with a fan can remove as much heat as a larger fin area HS without a fan.

That would have easily been confirmed or ruled out though with the led on the SSR

I don't believe this is true. If the triac in the SSR latches up due to heat, the LED will still blink. This is because the LED does not monitor the triac output, but rather is driven directly by the control input.

Brew on

 

[augiedoggy]

Yes, a small fin area HS with a fan can remove as much heat as a larger fin area HS without a fan.

I don't believe this is true. If the triac in the SSR latches up due to heat, the LED will still blink. This is because the LED does not monitor the triac output, but rather is driven directly by the control input.

Brew on

I wasn't clear here... I meant the led can rule out whether it's the PID or ss. If the led is flashing and the power is still on it's not the PID but rather bad ssr