Element advice.

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Syncman

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120V 5 gallon pot, brewing 2 gallon batches. About 9 batches now, and the latest tastes "scorched". Using a 1500W element from Home Depot.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1500-Wa...Screw-In-Water-Heater-Element-15024/204834407

Research on this site would suggest "high watt density" element is the problem. Would this Brewhardware element be a better option?

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element2200.htm Element2200-2.jpg
 
Yes, that's a better option. The longer the element tube, the fewer watt/sq in you have, and the less chance of scorching. Also, being all stainless steel, you don't have to worry about rust.

You can get scorching even with low watt densities if you have the element on when adding DME/LME. You need to get the extract dispersed in the wort before firing the element. If you have extract sitting on the element it can get too hot and scorch, since the extract does not dissipate heat anywhere near as well a water. If you have lots of suspended flour (all grain), or loose hops they can also scorch if they pile up on the element before you have a boil going.

Brew on :mug:
 
Even with a low density element, be careful. I learned the hard way about putting brown sugar in my boil when it burned on the element and ruined my wee heavy. If you have PWM control to your element you can prevent it from being 'flat out' on.
 
^ always the best choice for a variety of reasons. Not just scorching but they can effect color and flavor according to some here just like cooking at a higher temp on a gas stove can effect sometimes effect certain things. Its probably something so small most wont notice but also one of the main reasons for such a low watt density on the blichmann elements.
 
My only add to the conversation is to check the size of your bulkhead. The wavy elements can be difficult to install if the hole is not sized correctly.

For me, I tried the lower density wavy element, but I couldn't get it through when I had all my fittings attached to it (I have a silver solder 2 inch tri clamp, and then a Still dragon 2 inch element enclosure, and with all that, I couldn't get the wavy element to go through the enclosure).
 
How come a wavy element cannot pass through a 2 inch hole?
 
for me, it was the depth of my enclosure, it couldn't fit around the radius of the bends of the wavy element.

This isn't to say everyone will have the problem, I just like to bring it up so that others can be aware and double check to make sure so that they won't make the same mistake that I made.
 
I have both 2" TC ripple elements installed in stout style 3bbl kettles as well as ripples for my 1.5"TC weldless TC kettle fitting I got from brew hardware and they all install with no issues, I would replace the TC fitting at the base of your kettle if its really that deep its not ideal for any element.

or just bend the wavy element a bit... they do bend without issues.
 
Yeah, I got the silver solder on 1.5" TC fittings from Brew-hardware and I have no issue with the wavy element either. I went that route because I heard about others having that same problem with other brand bulkheads.
 
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