Electric HLT thread.

[Orfy]

Well here is mine not saying how i made it (but y can probably guess) do not want people killing themselves..... As to the temperatures

Looks good but I think you'll find you need 2 for a good boil.

 

[kappclark]

Question abt wiring ..

In starting out, I will probably go for a 220 circuit.

Assuming a 4500W element for the BK, that comes out to abt 20 amps. What wire to use ? 10 gauge ? length of run wld be no more than 20 ft.

I think the HLT could get bu just fine with a $40 1000W bucket heater ..


The High Gravity system seems so expensive ($1,500 if you include the BK) ..It requires 220

I have a 120V 1500W element in my HLT and I use it to heat my strike water, HERMS water and sparge water. It works fine, takes about 90 mins to heat up, then is just runs. I am looking at running 220V in my garage and upgrading my element. I dont HAVE to, but it would be nice, and it would be cheap since my neighbor can do it for me.

 

[The Pol]

1000W is pretty weak... I have 1500W in my HLT and would like to have larger, but I cannot fit it in the tank and keep it submerged at all times. To get only 5 gallons from 70F-175F would take almost an hour and a half. A 1500W heating element is cheaper than a bucket heater and will do the task in about 53 mins...

 

[missing link]

I'm using 1500 watt elements in both my MLT and HLT. On 5 gallon batches I get about a 1 degree per minute temp rise. If I'm in a hurry I pre-heat the water in my boil kettle on my propane burner, otherwise I set-up and let the system run for 2 hours before doughing in.

Linc

 

[daborders]

has anyone tried bending the element away from the original shape? Issues?

 

[slnies]

You are correct sur. A number 10 agw wire is it. you will also need a two pole thirty amp breaker to go along with that.

Question abt wiring ..

In starting out, I will probably go for a 220 circuit.

Assuming a 4500W element for the BK, that comes out to abt 20 amps. What wire to use ? 10 gauge ? length of run wld be no more than 20 ft.

I think the HLT could get bu just fine with a $40 1000W bucket heater ..


The High Gravity system seems so expensive ($1,500 if you include the BK) ..It requires 220

 

[The Pol]

I just installed a new circuit in my garage and it was simple. Two pole 30A breaker, #10 AWG wire (4 wires) to a 50A (4 wire) range outlet. This will then feel 2 hots, one neutral and one gorund into my control box for various electrical components 220 AND 120v. It was a little under $20... and looks sweet.

Since my garage is finished, I installed the oulet about a foot below my existing breaker box to make the install easier. It also happnes to be within 6' of where I set up my brew rig when I brew, so it is perfect.

I still need to upgrade my kettle to electric and get my control panel built, I should be brewing again by February(ish) The circuit was cheap, the kettle upgrade to electric will be cheap, the control panel however with PID, SSR, heat sink, switches and distribution blocks etc... will be much more $$$$$.

 

[kal]

I just installed a new circuit in my garage and it was simple. Two pole 30A breaker, #10 AWG wire (4 wires) to a 50A (4 wire) range outlet. This will then feel 2 hots, one neutral and one gorund into my control box for various electrical components 220 AND 120v. It was a little under $20... and looks sweet.

Since my garage is finished, I installed the oulet about a foot below my existing breaker box to make the install easier. It also happnes to be within 6' of where I set up my brew rig when I brew, so it is perfect.

I still need to upgrade my kettle to electric and get my control panel built, I should be brewing again by February(ish) The circuit was cheap, the kettle upgrade to electric will be cheap, the control panel however with PID, SSR, heat sink, switches and distribution blocks etc... will be much more $$$$$

If it was cheap I take it the two pole 30A breaker is not a GFI breaker? It should be mentioned here that for safety reasons anyone doing this really SHOULD be using a GFI breaker and not a regular breaker. A lot of people choose not to use a GFI breaker because they're a lot more expensive.

If someone chooses to bypass safety to save a few bucks then so be it, but you should make sure to point this out to others so that the newbies know that this was a conscious choice on your part to go against possible safety codes in your area.

Kal

 

[slnies]

If it was cheap I take it the two pole 30A breaker is not a GFI breaker? It should be mentioned here that for safety reasons anyone doing this really SHOULD be using a GFI breaker and not a regular breaker. A lot of people choose not to use a GFI breaker because they're a lot more expensive.

If someone chooses to bypass safety to save a few bucks then so be it, but you should make sure to point this out to others so that the newbies know that this was a conscious choice on your part to go against possible safety codes in your area.

Kal

A point well made! You are very correct, although, if you look, a deal can be had on a GFCI breaker. It should also be noted that due to the new code regulations, prices of said breakers will most likely drop. Manufactures have a lot of sway over code requirements and so the new code requires everything to be either GFCI protected or arc-fault protected, period. These requirements will make them more available. In the short term, they may be more expensive because the factories are not yet geared for larger productions runs on those parts, but as they retool the parts will become less expensive. S

 

[BrewBeemer]

I've been asked for info but I am reluctant because water and electricity can kill.

Plus UK electrics are different to US electrics.

Yeah the electrons across the pond go down the wrong side of the wires vs here in the U.S.of A. plus 50 cycle. J/K. The steering wheels on the wrong side of their cars also but still fun driving over there as they don't use the horn all the time like here in the U.S. plus blinkers are optional here. Just a guessing game which lane cars in front of you they decide to drive in. Left for slower traffic here.

 

[BrewBeemer]

I just installed a new circuit in my garage and it was simple. Two pole 30A breaker, #10 AWG wire (4 wires) to a 50A (4 wire) range outlet.

Should anything happen to those #10 gauge wires off that 50 amp range socket before reaching that 30 amp breaker you have created a fire hazard as 10 gauge will not handle 50 amps it takes to trip that 50 amp breaker. The fire investigation report to your homeowners insurance policy holder will not pay out a claim should you have a fire, think about it was it worth it? TW your at 6 AWG, THW 6 AWG, THHN #8 AWG to handle 50 amps. After the 30 amp breaker you can use #10 AWG wire. This is almost as bad as splitting a range circuit and feeding two 120 volt plugs with 12 gauge wire and still have the bridged 50 amp breaker not replacing it for two 20 amp breakers and not a two pole 20 amp breaker that has a bridge. What your doing I would not touch at all do to liability.
Add a 30 amp GFI breaker at the panel and run a dedicated circuit for your brewing equipment. Better yet go with a 40 amp breaker with up graded wire gauge in case you decide to use higher wattage heating elements in the future with your new brewing rig.

 

[The Pol]

What your doing I would not touch at all do to liability.

You wouldnt do this? Can you explain to me why YOU wouldnt do this? Did you even read my post?

30A GFCI(upgraded)----->10AWG wire------>50A 4 prong outlet------>50A range cord----->control box------> 23A load (5500W RIPP element).

Still not seeing a problem, except that you didnt read my post. Could have saved yourself a few minutes on your reprimand.

 

[Battery Acid Bo]

has anyone tried bending the element away from the original shape? Issues?

No, you cannot change the shape of the element.

They contain a wire that is surrounded by a ceramic material that will crack and fracture the outer skin/surface.

There may be an element manufacture that makes one that will, but the ones for water heaters and hot plate elements are not.

 

[BrewBeemer]

A big oops there on my part Pol, I (my mind) read it as #10 from a 50 amp receptacle instead of #10 "to a 50 amp receptacle", me bad it was a 2:00 AM reply. Another all nighter without sleep again. I'm up 30 to 45 hour at a time without sleep. In that reply I have seen it done the wrong unsafe way picking up range power with a gas stove installed vs electric.
I do find it odd that you have a "range outlet" as ranges are usually hard wired, 240 volt electric dryers with recptacles as plug ins.

I'm here to make you tear your hair out.

 

[ajwillys]

Here's my eHLT. It's just a 4 gallon pot with a 1500w water heater element attached to a plumbing drain. I plug that into the temperature controller (the same one I use when fermenting) and run the sensor into a piece of 3/8 soft copper tubing with a cap on the end. It fits perfectly, btw. I've sense insulated it and it works pretty good. If I start with hot water, I can get to sparge temps in about 45 minutes, which is good enough.

 

[The Pol]

A big oops there on my part Pol, I (my mind) read it as #10 from a 50 amp receptacle instead of #10 "to a 50 amp receptacle", me bad it was a 2:00 AM reply. Another all nighter without sleep again. I'm up 30 to 45 hour at a time without sleep. In that reply I have seen it done the wrong unsafe way picking up range power with a gas stove installed vs electric.
I do find it odd that you have a "range outlet" as ranges are usually hard wired, 240 volt electric dryers with recptacles as plug ins.

I'm here to make you tear your hair out.

Package sayes 50A Range outlet. Looking at my range in my home, it is not "hard wired", it has a 4 prong plug that plugs into a 4 prong outlet. Like this one that is now in my garage. I have lived in 6 homes and never seen a range "hard wired" into the house.
PASS & SEYMOUR 3894CC6 50ABlack Flush Ran Outlet

 

[Orfy]

Orfy,

Did you catch the plastic on fire because you let the element run dry?

yes.................

 

[kappclark]

Here's my eHLT. It's just a 4 gallon pot with a 1500w water heater element attached to a plumbing drain. I plug that into the temperature controller (the same one I use when fermenting) and run the sensor into a piece of 3/8 soft copper tubing with a cap on the end. It fits perfectly, btw. I've sense insulated it and it works pretty good. If I start with hot water, I can get to sparge temps in about 45 minutes, which is good enough.

It doesn't get much simpler than that, I guess

I guess that would be a heat stick .. easy to build ?

1500W - can the ranco handle that much ? (I know it can cause you are using it ..!)

I am curious what the limits for the ranco are ...

 

[The Pol]

A JC A419 can handle 16A, that is more than a 1500W element.

 

[stevehaun]

Pol:
Since your GFI breaker is 30 amps, why not use a 30 amp 4 prong outlet and 30 amp power cord?
I understand that your load is less than 25 amps and won't overload your circuit.

 

[The Pol]

I could have, but Lowes didnt have it... so, I got a 50A... don't see a difference, but sure.

 

[ajwillys]

It doesn't get much simpler than that, I guess

I guess that would be a heat stick .. easy to build ?

1500W - can the ranco handle that much ? (I know it can cause you are using it ..!)

I am curious what the limits for the ranco are ...

Yeah, its a heat stick. It was pretty easy to build. I used the directions found here: (scroll down)
How to Build an Electric Homebrewing Heatstick Audio Tutorial Podcast and Step by Step Photo Instructions

1500 watts is 12.5 amps at 120 volts and the Ranco is rated for 15 amps, so we're good.

 

[Jonnio]

What are your guy's thoughts on the safety of a heatstick, vs. mounting a heating element directly into a sanke keg HLT?

I have decided to turn my keg into my HLT and it seems like electric is the way to go, but I am a little leery about leaks from cutting a hole in the bottom to stick an element through. Especially since I wouldn't go crazy with JB Weld or anything else that is permanent in case the element ever needed to be replaced.

At least with a heat stick you can encapsulate the electronics and just toss it when it needs to be replaced.

 

[Brewmation]

Jonnio,

We use a 1" pipe thread lock nut and a gasket seal on our conversion kits. If you have a clean cut hole, you won't have to worry about leaks. Just be sure the gasket (flat washer seal) is located on the outside against the element flange. Otherwise, the liquid can find it's way along the threads and out... Also, be sure to use a seal that is soft and heavy enough to handle the curve of the keg.

In this link you can see the nut and seal pictured...

Home brewery electric conversion kits

Good luck!

Kevin

 

[The Pol]

I didnt JB weld mine to my cooler... I dont know of anyone that has. If you have the proper nut, it shouldnt leak. Also, why not just pot the electrical connections on the element like I did, so they are impervious to water?

 

[Jonnio]

That's probably a good idea Pol - did you use just make a form and fill it with some sort of epoxy?

With a cooler I wouldn't be too worried, but through a keg wall or floor it is a little less of a consistent surface to seal to.

 

[The Pol]

Look at my OP for my BLING BLING Electric HERMs Conversion thread... https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/bling-bling-electric-herms-conversion-93217/

It details how to pot the connections on an element

With pics!

 

[maxbing]

POL,

I am thinking of converting my 10 Gal rubbermaid cooler to a Electric HLT like you did. Other than using a 2000w element what would you do different.

Do you have details of how you put the element in the cooler and sealed it from leaks. I am kind of nervous of drilling a big hole in my brand new cooler.
thanks

Scott

 

[The Pol]

POL,

I am thinking of converting my 10 Gal rubbermaid cooler to a Electric HLT like you did. Other than using a 2000w element what would you do different.

Do you have details of how you put the element in the cooler and sealed it from leaks. I am kind of nervous of drilling a big hole in my brand new cooler.
thanks

Scott

I responded to your PM.

 

[gunner11]

Anyone think this would work for heating a small HLT. I am doing 5 gallon batches so would be heating 3 to 4 gallons of strike or sparge water at a time. Think this might save me some $'s on propane.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BD8JAE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20