- Feb 12, 2007
- Reaction score
I could have, but Lowes didnt have it... so, I got a 50A... don't see a difference, but sure.
Yeah, its a heat stick. It was pretty easy to build. I used the directions found here: (scroll down)It doesn't get much simpler than that, I guess
I guess that would be a heat stick .. easy to build ?
1500W - can the ranco handle that much ? (I know it can cause you are using it ..!)
I am curious what the limits for the ranco are ...
I am thinking of converting my 10 Gal rubbermaid cooler to a Electric HLT like you did. Other than using a 2000w element what would you do different.
Do you have details of how you put the element in the cooler and sealed it from leaks. I am kind of nervous of drilling a big hole in my brand new cooler.
I have a similiar one for the horse's water tank in the winter. I believe the thermostat on these things are set at 34.Anyone think this would work for heating a small HLT. I am doing 5 gallon batches so would be heating 3 to 4 gallons of strike or sparge water at a time. Think this might save me some $'s on propane.
Apparently those things dont work well at allAnyone have any experience using this to heat a HLT or sparge water?
Allied Precision 1000W 742G Bucket Heater
Will it get the water to 175F?
Seriously, look at the Water Cooler conversions. It is really really really easy, and pretty cheap. For a 5G HLT, you are looking at about $60. With 1500 Watts I can use it in most GFCI sockets, and it gets (5G) water to temp in under an hour.Thanks for the reply and posting the other thread. I guess I am a little too novice electronically to attempt the heat stick build and do not want to have to install a 220V outlet. Really looking for something just to heat water to 175-180F and run on a standard household GFI outlet. I may just have to stick with propane.
So the 1500W element is about the max for a standard household GFI outlet? I am a real rookie when it comes to working with electricity so I guess that is why I am a little nervous about building something to put in water. I do have a 220V that my clothes dryer plugs into that I could use. Is there anything that I could purchase that is UL approved instead of building one on my own?Seriously, look at the Water Cooler conversions. It is really really really easy, and pretty cheap. For a 5G HLT, you are looking at about $60. With 1500 Watts I can use it in most GFCI sockets, and it gets (5G) water to temp in under an hour.
*5G Cooler: Was $15 at WalMart
*1500W/120V element: $10 or less
*1" Plastic Nut, (<$1) look in the Electrical by the conduit
*Use the Rubber seal that comes with the element
*Machine Bushing (<$1) bring the rubber seal in and get one that fits as tight as you can around it
*Thermometer: $6 mechanical
*Drain: $18 at bargain fittings for a kit, or $10 for ball valve, nipple, Stainless Washers, and elbow
*Extension cord (Check Amp Rating!) $10
I spent about an hour or two putting it together, and there are lots of instructions, like these:
Yes - I use 1 1000W 120V bucket heater in a 10G Rubbermaid cooler to prepare strike water.. I set a timer the night before to get the water heated when I come down in AM..takes abt 3 hours..For the sparge water, I re-fill cooler, add a second heater and it is ready in abt 1 hour. I don't boiling with 120 -- I still do that outside on the porch w/propane.240V (it's not 220 by the way ) isn't nessasary unless you're trying to boil water or heating quickly.
everything you could ever need about electric brewing can be found here at www.theelectricbrewery.comCan anyone point me to plans for electric HLT using a converted 15 gal keg and 220V is avail as well as piped natural gas. I plan to use gas for boil, electric/electronic control of HL and spathe. No plans yet for heating mash, not in that league yet :-/
Sorry if it's been posted before, I tried searching for a while