Electric controller check

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TNTgill

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Could someone smarter than me make sure this looks ok. This will be plugged into a 50amp GFCI outlet. I don't have the dspr1 hooked to power yet as I ran out of disconnects. The switch is what kind of threw me as I tried to use the diagram from auber on wiring the switch and contactor (which is a 240v coil). Ideally the red led should be on when the controller is powered up. There green led is when the element is firing. I used left over ground from the contactor to the SSR (I know prolly not idea). The blue wire to the LED is 14g (I ran out of 18g) is that ok?
 

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I've had a chance to trace the wires, and if I have done it correctly, the switch is wired wrong. The way it is connected will cause shorting of the two hot lines together as soon as the switch is turned on. This will most likely destroy the switch, and should cause the circuit breaker to trip.

The way this switch works is that there are two switches that are electrically independent, but mechanically coupled together such that the contacts in both switched close and open at the same time. In the photos, the two switch blocks are oriented vertically. When the switch is activated, terminals 3 & 4 on the right are connected together, and 3 & 4 on the left are also connected together. There are no left to right connectivity in any switch position. On the right contact block terminal 4 connects to the incoming white hot leg at the contactor right input terminal. Terminal 3 of the right contact block connects to the incoming black hot leg at the contactor left input terminal. The terminals of the left contact block of the switch connect to the contactor coil terminals.

To wire the switch correctly the incoming hot wires should connect to the two bottom terminals on the switch, and the two top terminals should be wired to the contactor coil terminals.

Brew on :mug:
 
@doug293cz thank you so much for all your help. Everything is working perfectly.
 

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Just a few comments. I think the green should be power on and red should be element firing but that's just my preference. You shouldn't use green wire for an L1 or L2 hot. It's for ground period. You should also tie ground to one of the mounting screws for the SSR so that your heat sink is grounded. If the SSR melts down in the most unfortunate way, it could electrify the heat sink (and your hand at some point).
 
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